Ask Aaron Q&A: What is the ideal shaving routine?
“Can you describe the ideal shaving routine, detailing what products to use and how to use them?” asks James Merchant.
AARON SAYS:
“The ideals shave can be boiled down to three simple steps: Prepare. Shave. Protect. To Prepare: take a shower, then wash with a mild face wash or scrub; preferably one for men or for your skin type. To Shave: lather up using a good quality shaving cream such as the Bluebeard’s Revenge, or another fine shaving cream preferably with a brush. A good quality razor with good sharp blade, whether a safety razor or cartridge razor, is ideal to shave with. Shave first in the direction of hair growth, then across, then against. To Protect: rinse all the remaining cream off the face, then rinse with cold water, closing the pores. Then apply a good quality post-shave balm, skin food, or toner to refresh and hydrate the skin.”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Shaving Shack now stocking Ikon Bulldog ‘Deluxe’ Stainless Steel Safety Razor
The Shaving Shack is delighted to announce that we are stocking the luxurious Ikon Bulldog ‘Deluxe’ Stainless Steel Safety Razor.
These razors were born out of one man’s desire to have a solid stainless steel safety razor made to his own exacting standards.
This has turned into a company producing what many consider the best quality artisan razors money can buy.
Each piece is handcrafted with attention to detail given to every aspect of production. This razor, the ‘deluxe’ version of the Ikon Bulldog three-piece safety razor, is no exception.
The Ikon Bulldog Deluxe, priced at £99.99 on The Shaving Shack, is a precisely engineered and CNC machined version offering much finer detail achieved by machining each and every finger of the open comb into the stainless steel.
The knurling on the handle is flawless, an indicator of a quality production process. It provides a secure grip and with the weightiness of the razor it feels like a proper manly cutting tool.
Most safety razors are metal with a nickel or chrome plate finish, whereas this razor is made entirely of stainless steel - it will not flake, peel, wear down, or rust like other metals. The fantastic finish, which had us fooled into believing it was chrome, is achieved by lengthy hand polishing.
US wet shaving expert Mike Sandoval, from Shaving101.com, recently reviewed the standard version of this razor.
He said: ”Like the popular Feather All Stainless and PILS Safety Razor, the Ikon Bulldog is a precisely engineered and machined double-edge razor. All three razors are made with quality stainless steel and they all implement strict tolerances that allow the blade to seat securely in the razor with precise blade exposure on both sides of the cutting head.
”However, while the other razors boast modern designs, the Ikon maintains a traditional style that has resonated with wetshavers since the early Gillette models of the 1900s. Ikon has successfully combined modern engineering with traditional design.”
Mike then went on to describe how his first shave with the razor went. “For my first shave I used a BIC blade, which I find to provide a great balance between sharpness and comfort on my skin. Throughout the shave, I could not even feel the blade on my face at all and was surprised to find no stubble. The razor cut smoothly and efficiently.
”For subsequent shaves, I moved up to a Feather blade with the same results - very comfortable shave with no harshness or irritation at all. To further test the razor, my teenage son also shaved with it. Despite his areas of acne, the mild cutting action worked well for him and he did not get any cuts or nicks during his shave. This razor proved itself to be outstanding for his sensitive skin and light hair, as well as my normal skin and coarser beard.”
He concluded his review by saying: “The Ikon Bulldog Safety Razor represents the excellence of the new class of stainless steel safety razors. The heft and precision construction of these razors have forever changed the shaving industry and raised the bar on materials, design, and price.”
You can read Mike’s full review of this stunning razor by clicking here.
Why a double edge razor is technically better than a cartridge based razor system
As Gillette launches its much-hyped Fusion ProGlide Power razor in the UK - I take a quick look at why a double edge razor is still technically superior to a ProGlide or any other cartridge based razor system out there.
For those who use double edge safety razors for shaving on a regular basis, the answer to the question “Why is a double edge razor technically better than a cartridge based razor system?” may seem quite obvious: ‘because you get better results’. However, for the rest of the men out there who use multi-bladed cartridges instead - and let’s face it that includes the vast majority of men in the Western world - they may wonder why they should ever consider changing their shaving method?
Well, the real answer to the question above lies within the technology of the types of razor on offer. From a scientific standpoint double edge safety razors certainly have the edge over cartridge based razor systems like the Fusion ProGlide Power razor, Wilkinson Sword Hydro and the King of Shaves Azor.
I recently spoke to American wet shaving expert Mike Sandoval, who runs the Shaving101 website, about why the cartridge razor system was so popular.
Gillette has unveiled the new Fusion ProGlide Power razor in the UK
“The cartridge razor system is appealing to many men because it is advertised to be modern and high performing with innovative designs and multi-blade cutting action,” he said. “High-dollar marketing campaigns feature celebrity athletes that promote modern cartridges as the only masculine option.”
So why do double edge razors produce a closer and more rewarding shave?
The cartridge system razor generally works by using its hinge or pivot point to maintain a constant angle on the face while shaving. And while there may be many other features or gimmicks they offer, this pivoting mechanism is the most important aspect of the razor at making the shave quick and easy to use – which is the key advantage of these razors.
“The problem is that the blades of a cartridge are close together with extremely small spacing between each cutting edge,” explains Mike. “The razor is unable to cleanly cutting hair without requiring multiple passes along your skin, catching and pulling long stubble, as well as constantly clogging during the shave.”
On the other hand, while double edge razors may take longer to get used too – with a short learning curve to overcome – you have far more control over the razor and the closeness of the shave itself. Therefore, with DE shavers the process may take longer, with shorter strokes, but you will notice an improvement in the (even more crucial) performance aspect of the shave.
Mike adds: ”The double edge safety razor uses a single cutting edge that tracks along the skin at a much more comfortable angle and cuts the hair cleanly without grabbing or pulling excessively (provided you choose the right blade for your beard and skin type).
Wilkinson Sword’s Hydro 5 razor system
”Although you won’t find many celebrity athletes promoting the double edge razor, there has been a strong resurgence in traditional shaving. Many men are returning to old-school shaving because it is more comfortable and more economical.”
If time really is the most important factor when shaving, a Hydro, Azor or ProGlide may be the answer, but if you are a man who likes to work with engineering excellence that has stood the test of time and has the patience to learn, then maybe it is time to think about leaving those expensive cartridges behind and opt for a results-proven double edged razor.
Gillette launched the new Fusion ProGlide Power razor in the UK this month. It is the latest addition to its growing family of Fusion razors with Gillette’s thinnest-ever blades. The firm says the ProGlide outperforms its existing Fusion razor.
There are two versions of the Gillette ProGlide, a battery-powered model and a manual version. The battery-powered Gillette Fusion ProGlide Power comes with one blade cartridge and is available priced £12.99. The manual version comes with two blade cartridges and costs £9.99.
Over the last few years, I have used many different brands of cartridge based razor system, including the Azor, Gillette Fusion Power Stealth and Gillette Mach 3 Turbo, Wilkinson Sword Quattro Titanium Energy and Wilkinson Sword Hydro 5 and Boots’ Hydro and Titanium Triple Razor, but personally still prefer the excitement and closeness of a DE razor.
The Merkur 33C Classic will always be my all-time favourite, but I would also highly recommend the Merkur Futur 760, Goodfella, Muhle R89 and the relatively new Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” Double Edge Razor.
Follow Nick Gibbens on Twitter @nickgibbens
Double edge shaving tips
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More articles by Nick Gibbens
I chose wet shaving - Because it works
For millions of men, the daily act of shaving… sucks. We tear our faces up with overpriced razors with blades that go dull quickly and foams that numb the face, deal with ingrown hairs and irritation, and more often than not have stubble within a few hours. That’s the reality that so many of us wake up to every day. It doesn’t have to work like that, though. Shaving doesn’t have to suck.
There are communities on the web that pride themselves on shaving the old-fashioned way, with a safety razor (or straightedge!), a brush, a high-quality cream or soap, and a combination of aftershaves selected with meticulous planning. The group eschews the multi-bladed monsters with their overpriced refills and the cans of foam and gels that mostly numb the face and don’t really help shaving that much… but…
The dirty secret in the “wet shaving community” is that the multi-blade systems work, and for many people work reasonably well. They can produce a clean and irritation-free shave. For many people, a quick shave and shower IS a part of life, and they’re good with that.
The problem is that it doesn’t work for everyone. The multi-bladed razors leave me irritated and with horrible ingrown hair issues due to my fairly sensitive skin and a very thick beard. That combination is disaster when combined with the drugstore razors. For me, wetshaving isn’t something I do because I enjoy it (I do enjoy it, but that’s secondary). Wetshaving is something I do because I HAVE to do it. I use a brush and a cream or soap because the exfoliation and beard softening effects help to prevent ingrown hairs. I use a good aftershave balm and witch hazel because they help to repair the damage done by scraping a sharp blade across my skin. I use a safety razor because it efficiently slices the hair in my beard off closely to the skin without going too far.
For many, that morning chore of shaving and just dealing with the pain of irritation and ingrowns is something they just don’t know how to avoid. For me, it was an accidental click on a blog that led me in the direction of wetshaving. One thing led to another, and over the couple of years I’ve been doing it I’ve now acquired creams, soaps, aftershaves, razors, blades, brushes… and it’s all been a good experience. Shaving went from something I dreaded to a way to kickstart my day in the right way. Rainy and cold outside? Sandalwood soap and aftershave. Hot and humid? It’s a Proraso shave, baby! Face irritated from a bad shave recently? Speick cures all.
The kicker, for me, has been that it doesn’t add that much time to my morning rituals around my shower. Instead of a 3 minute shave I might take up to 7 or 8 minutes. And it’s WORTH IT. I save money by not blowing through the 15 dollar cartridge refill packs every week or two, I save my face with good products, and I feel pretty good starting the day. If you haven’t tried wetshaving yet, there’s no time like the present.
Jeremy is a wet shaving expert and blogger. He runs popular wet shaving blog Punkrockshaving.blogspot.com.
More articles by Jeremy Mahler
Looking for an inexpensive double edge razor?
If you are a guy who is after a close and comfortable shave but has had enough of the more expensive cartridge razors then look no further than the remarkable double edge razor. And when you do need to replace the blades you will find that quality double edge blades are available at just a fraction of the cost.
A double edge safety razor is able to provide a shave that is much closer and smoother than with cartridge razors too. This is because the two blades are able to cut the hairs at various angles and you will find that performance is improved somewhat.
So what double edge razors should I consider buying?
When you have decided you would like to try a double edge razor to see if it is the right shaving tool for you, the next stage can sometimes be a little daunting, especially with all the products on the market.
Merkur 510 Chrome 'Progress' Safety Razor (Long Handle)
There are many top quality double edge razors you can now get online, and at prices you can afford. These include safety razor models from major shaving brands like Merkur and Parker. We will consider a few of the most popular razors below:
Parker double edge safety razors – The fact that you can now get a three piece safety razor with a nickel plated finish for under £20 just goes to show that you don’t have to spend a fortune to get a really close shave. Why not go for an 89R model or the 91R?
Merkur double edge safety razors – Again, for under £20, you will be able to get a quality razor in the 33C Classic which is chrome plated and a great beginner model for those starting out in improving their technique. For a few pounds more you could also consider the 23C Long Handled Classic which is perfect for those with larger hands.
Whichever model you eventually go for, you can be safe in the knowledge that these razors offer a great level of performance and due to the big savings they offer, will certainly pay for themselves.
Slice through stubble the Bluebeards way with the ‘Scimitar’ safety razor
The Shaving Shack is delighted to announce the safe arrival of The Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” double edge safety razor.
These razors are beautifully balanced allowing the weight of the instrument to deliver the blade at the optimum cutting angle resulting in a close and rewarding shave.
The 'Scimitar' has been designed for real men with tough stubble
Laser etched with the iconic Bluebeards Revenge logo, the “Scimitar” weighs 67g and has a length of 9.5cm.
So slice through your stubble the Bluebeards way with this luxurious double edge razor!
The Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” double edge safety razors are priced at just £29.99 on The Shaving Shack website.
My transition from Mach3 to Double-Edge shaving
Truth be told, when I first read that Dan was looking for people to write for his blog I wasn’t sure what I could contribute. I mean sure, I’d been shaving with a DE razor for just under a year, but did that give me ‘expert’ status? Enough experience to pass my collected shaving wisdom onto newcomers?
Then I realised that what I could do is just recount my shaving story so far. After all, being twenty-six, I had scraped some sort of blade across my face for a number of years, using a variety of different methods and equipment. In the process I’d made many mistakes, as well as many happy discoveries, turning me into perhaps not an expert shaver, but certainly a happy one.
The first razor I used was the ubiquitous Gillette Mach3, along with a cheap Wilkinson Sword boar brush and a stick of Palmolive shave soap. I guess this was picked out for me by my Dad, seeing as he used a similar set-up with a Gillette Atra in place of the Mach3. I don’t remember him teaching me how to go about shaving but I guess that was the advantage of the Mach3, you could just drag it across your face and it did all the work for you. Just rub the brush all over the soap, lather-up and shave away. At least I was already on the right road of using a traditional shaving brush and soap. It was therefore unfortunate that after a couple of years shaving this way I got seduced by the assortment of foams and gels out there and promptly took a step back.
Between the ages of nineteen and twenty-three my shaves may have been pain-free but they had turned into a chore, and not even a closely shaven chore at that. Due to a pasty Englishman’s complexion coupled with dark hair I had what’s referred to as a bluebeard, a dark shadow of bristle peeking its way through my skin, mocking my Mach3’s attempts to achieve that fresh-from-the-barber’s-shop look.
Things changed when, like many recent converts to traditional wet shaving, I discovered Mantic’s videos on YouTube. This led me back onto the path from which I’d strayed. I dusted off my brush, bought myself a fresh shave stick and soon started wondering how I’d been such a numpty in going for all those gloopy gels and foams. I also ditched the Mach3 as I was fed-up with paying out for expensive replacement cartridges; I switched instead to swivel-headed, two-blade Gillette disposables. This set-up was better. The dry tautness which came from the gels and foams disappeared and shaving itself became less of a chore, but I still wasn’t getting particularly close shaves. I didn’t seem to be able to shave across or against the grain of my beard without irritation, even with the help of Mantic’s videos.
Then in April of 2008 I went on holiday to Italy. Naturally what got me most excited wasn’t the prospect of seeing Pompeii or devouring plate after plate of delicious Italian cuisine, it was knowing that I’d be able to buy some Proraso products (available in most convenience stores) and an Omega boar brush (available in most of the pharmacies). The Omega boar was a significant improvement on my old Wilkinson Sword brush, by now shedding at least half a dozen hairs a shave.
I decided it was time to take the final step in my shaving conversion, lose the disposables, and brave-up to the world of double edge. So I trawled eBay and scored myself a job-lot offering of a Lord razor with a Merkur-style head, some Speick cream and a Wilkinson Sword shave stick. I got some no-name (said to be Personna) DE blades from Boots, lathered-up and started to shave. The first thing I realised was that going from two-blade disposables to DE wasn’t as huge a leap as I’d anticipated. I could hear when the blade was cutting properly, it travelled smoothly over the skin and the hairs waved goodbye, what had I been afraid of? I then re-lathered and went for an across-grain pass, to my surprise the blade happily obliged. With my Mach3 and disposables I’d always felt resistance going anything except with the grain, this was much better. I thought I’d better stop there for my first few shaves but I was definitely hooked, already my skin felt smoother.
Over the next few months my technique gradually improved. I learnt what my face could handle in terms of which direction I shaved, how many passes I could get away with and which blades I preferred. My by-now new hobby saw my collection of soaps, creams and razors slowly expand, as the contents of my wallet rapidly shrank, and I woke each morning actually anticipating my daily shave.
Things were going so well that on his last birthday, I decided the time was right to try and infect my Dad with the shaving bug. I updated his own Wilkinson boar brush with a pure badger, and expanded his usual routine of Palmolive stick, followed by Palmolive stick, followed by another Palmolive stick with some Taylor’s cream and a puck of Culmak soap. I also found him a Gillette flare-tip rocket to try and wean him off his by-now triple-bladed razor. So far he loves his new Culmak, badger and Taylor friends, but is sticking to his triple-blade for the time being. This leaves me in a moral dilemma: continue to coerce and instruct him in the ways of the DE? Or leave him be, give in to my desires and persuade him to part with his rocket, so it can be become friends with my other Gillette’s?
So far I’ve stuck with trying to show him the pleasures of double-edge shaving, but how long my resolve stays strong only time will tell.
More articles by Richard Wall
Shaving Shack now stocking stylish Goodfella safety razors
The Shaving Shack is delighted to announce that we are now stocking the Goodfella safety razors.
Available in either chrome or satin black, these double edge safety razors have been designed for the stylish shaver.
The Goodfella Safety Razor is a product of today's technology
“The Goodfella Safety Razor is a product of today’s technology. Through computer aided design and selecting modern durable materials the manufacturer has rejuvenated the old school, classic shaving razor,” said a spokesperson for the firm.
“The Goodfella Safety Razor is perfectly balanced allowing the weight of the razor to deliver the blade at the optimum cutting angle resulting in a smooth and close, yet mild shave.”
Weighing 57g each, and made in New Zealand, these razors are hand finished. Each head is checked three times during production ensuring strict quality control.
The razors have also been a hit with the media, with The Australian Telegraph saying: “The classy, Sean Connery-Bond style of the Goodfella Safety Razor makes it look straight off the silver screen”.
Luxury Magazine added: “This razor makes shaving fun again”, while Tone Magazine said it “prefers the feel of blade on bristle than the lawnmower-like grind of an electric shaver”.
Hans Henrik Appel, from leading shaving blog The Shaving Detective, was also full of praise for the Goodfella safety razors.
He wrote: “The Goodfella is a classic chrome Double Edge razor in a clean, almost clinical, design. At first, it struck me as a very small razor, but it actually handles extremely well and is perfectly balanced. The Goodfella was my first attempt at a DE razor, and I must say that it impressed me with its great looks and the gentle shave it provides.
“At first, I thought that the short and slick handle would be slippery and hard to hold once it got wet. It turned out to fit perfectly in my hand - and never slipped a bit! The centre of balance was perfect for me, but I will not guarantee that it will fit anyone just as good.
“Like it goes for any other razor, it really is a matter of preference. The Goodfella is not an aggressive razor - in fact, you have to try quite hard to cut yourself with the open comb design.”
The Goodfella safety razors are priced at £59.99 on the Shaving Shack website.
Why would I want to change my shaving habits?
Due to the increasing popularity of double-edged razor shaving, many people who know little about this product are now curious as to why this is proving to be so “in demand”. The question this poses to these guys is: why would I want to change my shaving habits?
It is easy to get set in your ways when shaving or undertaking any other regular task. If you have been using an electric razor or Mach 3 blade for what seems like forever, you would be entitled to wonder why you should make a change now. In a previous article we looked at the cost factor which, while very important, is not the only reason to make the switch.
A Merkur is to razors as a Ferrari is to cars! (But without the cost)
For starters, double-edged shaving can be a luxurious process. Affordable it certainly is, but the sheer pleasure you get from your daily routine is unsurpassed, especially when you consider the chore it is to shave at present.
A number of men have simply had enough of the expensive multi-bladed systems and have decided to make the bold change themselves. Word of mouth certainly plays a part as guys tend to discuss these things when they are on holiday together or have just discovered something new and interesting.
You may be used to wet shaving already (Mach 3 users) or have a tried and trusted electric razor and so need an incentive other than money to alter your morning routine. Well, as you start to take the time to perfect your technique with a double-edged blade, you start to understand what all the fuss is about. You not only get a closer, smoother shave, but also start to enjoy the experience.
The double-edged razor is becoming extremely popular again as the modern man starts to consider the way the older generation used to shave. Once people get hooked, these retro shaving products allow them to experiment with all the creams, soaps and brushes etc. which are also available. The accessories just serve to make this daily task even more pleasurable.
Double edge shaving offers 5-star luxury without having to leave the bathroom!!
Although double edge shaving is synonymous with luxury, amazingly it is inexpensive to get started. Once the initial kit has been acquired not only will you experience a better way of shaving, but you will save money too! With blades costing pennies and luxury creams that last months there is no reason not to indulge in this affordable luxury.
So, why not give it a try, break your old habits and brave this new world of traditional and luxurious shaving products; you never know, in time, you may even come to look forward to it!
Ask Mantic Q&A #6&7: Recommend A Blade?
Mantic, the American wet shaving guru, has been taking part in a Question and Answer session with Shaving Shack visitors.
Already Mantic, a veteran of the BadgerAndBlade and ShaveMyFace forums, has answered questions on advanced shaving techniques, slant razors, brush break-in, passes, runny lather and suitable brush types.
Today he answers a further two questions in the Youtube video below.
The first is from Doug, who asks: “After many years of shaving with a heavy metal atra razor, what would be the best blade and method for using my grandfathers’ old Gillette 1961 Fat Boy and his 1948 Golden Aristocrat razor?”
The second comes from Jevon, who asks: “What different blades are recommended for different beard types?”
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