Cut throat shaving - the complete guide by the London School of Shaving
Shave like 007
One of the oldest and manliest grooming traditions, the cut throat shave, has come steaming back into fashion over the past six months, thanks in no small part to James Bond and the latest 007 film Skyfall.
During a scene in the film, British actress Naomie Harris gives 007, played by Daniel Craig, a close shave using a cut throat razor, whispering in his ear “sometimes the old ways are the best” as she performs the shave.
We even attributed the latest James Bond movie for a whopping 405% increase in sales of both our cut throat razors and shavettes.
With this in mind we decided to enlist the help of expert London barber Ian Woodmansey, from the London School of Shaving, to ensure every guy was fully briefed on the art of cut throat shaving and had all the right tips and tricks to achieve a great straight/cut throat razor shave.
Words by Ian Woodmansey
Introduction to the London School of Shaving
The London School of Shaving (LSoS) was established in early 2012 to teach men who are new to cut throat razor shaving some of the secrets of shaving with an old-school straight razor. Following the success of the 007 movie Skyfall, in which Daniel Craig proves that Bond is the ultimate man when he shaves with a cutthroat, the School has become the ‘go-to’ place to learn the art of this most refined form of shaving. LSoS has taught men from all walks of life and from all over the world how to shave, from London barristers to New York cops. The School, which is based in West Hampstead, is going from strength to strength and has teamed up with The Shaving Shack to give you the opportunity to pose questions to the cut throat shaving experts.
Ian Woodmansey
The London School of Shaving was founded by Ian Woodmansey, who first experienced cut throat shaving on a beach in India 13 years ago. He loved the experience so much that he decided to teach himself how to shave, and has never looked back since. After teaching himself how to use a cut throat, Ian then taught various friends the art of the ‘real’ shave before setting up LSoS. The School is a completely unique business, believed to be the only cut throat razor school on the face of the planet. Ian is passionate about the art of cut throat shaving and sees it as the most modern way of shaving, a way to escape the throw-away culture and to contribute to a life surrounded by quality. He wants to see the cut throat razor reclaim its rightful place as the 21st century way to shave, and invites you to follow this page to experience the pleasure and satisfaction of shaving ‘properly’.
Basic how-to-shave
The secret of a great cut throat shave can be summed up in a few key ideas: prepare the beard well; use the correct equipment; stretch the skin well; keep the angle of the blade at a steady 30 degrees, and use a very light touch. If you follow these rules you won’t go far wrong - although they still take some practicing.
There are some minor complications, such as the chin and the area below the nose, but practice will soon make perfect. If possible, force yourself to shave with both your dominant and less dominant hand – although it feels uncomfortable and slightly odd to begin with, you will soon get used to shaving with the ‘wrong’ hand and it will make life significantly easier in the long run.
The preparation of the beard is key: the best advice is to shave after a shower when the stubble is good and soft. Before lathering up, apply some pre-shave oil and then use a shaving brush to apply a good quality shaving soap. Barbers who shave people all day every day spend at least a minute or two building up a great lather on the face with a shaving brush – they do this because they know that it will make the shave significantly easier. It’s worth investing in decent shaving soap or cream; cheap soaps will dry out quickly meaning you have to use twice as much. Ensuring the edge of your razor – whether a traditional cut throat or a shavette razor - is super sharp is also vital (this can be achieved by good maintenance through honing and stropping the edge of the blade).
Once you are ready to shave, concentrate on 3 key things: the angle of the blade, the lightness of your touch, and how you stretch the skin in front of the blade. The angle should not be more than 30 degrees from the skin, the touch should be extremely light, and the skin should be stretched to ensure that a ridge of skin does not build up in front of the blade, thereby causing a nick. You should shave with the grain first, then across the grain, and for an incredibly close shave, against the grain last. Usually the first one or two of these should be sufficient.
When you have finished, splash cold water on your face to close up your pores, use a block of alum to disinfect your face and close up any small nicks, and apply some post-shave moisturiser. I swear by E45, which is kind to even the most sensitive of skin.
Different types of cut throat razors (shavette, single blade, etc) and their pros and cons
When starting to shave with a cut throat you have two main choices when it comes to shaving equipment: an old school straight razor or a ‘shavette’ straight razor with replaceable blades.
Each have their pros and cons. The traditional cut throat razor, as used by your granddad, has a certain cachet, a certain authenticity. When people imagine shaving with a cut throat razor this is what they think of: a cold, solid piece of steel slicing through stubble. This is the way 007 shaves, and there is nothing quite like it. However, despite its undoubted cool quotient, the traditional straight razor requires some looking after. For some this is one of its attractions, for others it is definitely a downside. It is important to ensure the blade does not rust. It is necessary to realign and mildly sharpen the edge of the blade after each use by running it over a strop. Every once in a while it is necessary to hone (sharpen) the blade edge on a stone designed for that purpose. These are all skills that one can learn over time, but they are not things that feel immediately natural, and they do take some time to master. So, with a traditional cut throat the deal is style vs. upkeep. It’s a bit like having a 1958 silver-grey 2-seater convertible Mercedes: it looks fantastic and people will definitely watch as you go past, but it requires TLC to keep it on the road.
Manufacturers – including our friends at The Bluebeards Revenge - are also now making shavette razors, which are very much in the spirit of the old school straight razor, but without the necessary maintenance. Shavette razors are a similar shape to cut throat razors, but they have one key difference: they take a replaceable razor blade that can be slotted into the cutting edge. Some say they lack some of the cachet of the traditional straight razor, although that’s strictly a matter of personal taste. What is certain, though, is that they require less upkeep. There is no need to keep the edge of the blade sharp – if it gets blunt you simply slot in a new razor blade. This means there is no need for stropping or honing, and therefore no need for the various bits of equipment necessary to run an old school razor. If you have children they are also safer (although not completely safe) to have around the house; and if you travel by air you should be able to take them in hand luggage through customs, even if you have to purchase new razor blades at your destination.
Personally, I use both. I love the authentic feel of a traditional straight razor on my face, and find using one is a very pleasurable experience. I have various old school razors – mainly British and German - and tend to use them at the weekend or as a treat on a weekday. On other days, when time is of the essence I often use my shavette, which is convenient, quick and gives an excellent shave. Horses for Courses!
We would like to take this opportunity to thank Ian for his time to write these excellent words and would recommend his school to all our customers.
For more information on the London School of Shaving, click here.
 Nick is a wet-shaving enthusiast and men’s grooming expert. He is a football fanatic and supports Arsenal for his sins. He also loves playing cricket, darts, rugby, badminton, tennis and squash. Nick, 31, has been wet shaving for five years and says he would never go back to the "awful" electric shaver. He loves his trusty Merkur 33c Classic far too much!! Follow him on Twitter @nickgibbens |
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About The Shaving Shack
The Shaving Shack offers a no-nonsense range of top quality wet shaving, mens grooming and mens skincare products designed for Real Men, direct to your door.
Shaving brushes, razors, shaving soaps, soap bowls, shaving accessories, shaving creams and shaving sets to suit every budget...and regular shoppers get even better value with our Shave Points Discounts!
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