Ask Aaron Q/A: Razor blade positioning & alignment on a slant bar razor
Posted in Ask Aaron Q & A, Double Edge Shaving, Safety Razors, Shaving Tips | Comments (0)
Aaron is asked a question about razor blade positioning & alignment on a slant bar razor
Roy Bichan, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Arron, I’ve submitted a few questions already asking about the position of razor blades in my DE Merkur 34c where one side seems to shave well but the other side hardly at all. I am unsure if the blades are a ‘duff’ batch with holes in the wrong place or if this is a common problem and care must be taken to centralise the blade.
Anyway I have recently bought the Merkur slant as an experiment and with supplied Merkur razor blade I am getting the same issue, and generally poor shave (1st time). I repeated the shave the following morning with a feather razor blade and although better, still the initial issue. So 2 questions I guess, 1 - blade positioning on the razor and 2 - is there any different technique to using the Merkur slant? Thanks, Roy”
Merkur 37C Slant Bar DE Safety Razor
AARON SAYS
“Hi Roy,
Thanks again for submitting some more great questions! There are definitely some good techniques out there for using a slant razor. They are a bit complicated to explain in words, so I suggest you go to my friend Mark’s YouTube channel, Shave Tutor, where you can find all kinds of helpful videos. For using the slant I suggest looking at his advanced techniques video, and this video on using a slant razor. http://youtu.be/mfb22jUXLLs
As for blade exposure balance, a trick that might help is to turn the head upside down, place the blade and the base plate on and gently shake the pieces to get them to distribute the blade evenly. I would not rule out that you might have received an off batch, but in my experience it is generally only one or two blades that are off, and not the whole pack. Please let us know how things progress and if you are still having difficulty with your blades balancing out!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Is the Merkur 34c DE safety razor nickel coated?
Posted in Ask Aaron Q & A, Double Edge Shaving, Safety Razors | Comments (0)
Aaron is asked a question about whether the Merkur 34c is nickel coated
Gary LeFevre, from the UK, asks:
“Considering buying the Merkur 34c Heavy Duty Classic razor. I have allergic reactions to nickel, are these razors nickel coated?”
Merkur 34C Heavy Duty Classic
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Lefevre,
As I understand it to be, the Merkur 34c and other razors of the same finish from Merkur are all Chrome finished over brass. You should not have any nickel allergy problems with the HD. A very good thing to be concerned about! Thanks for a good question!
Cheers,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How do I prevent ingrown hairs & shaving irritation under my chin
Posted in Ask Aaron Q & A, Double Edge Shaving, Shaving Tips | Comments (0)
Aaron is asked a question about shaving under the chin and ingrowing hairs
Marc Johnson, from the UK, asks:
“When I shave, I go with the grain and then across and the sometimes against afterwards. However, no matter which combination or sole direction I go, I end up with ingrowing hairs around my chin. When the stubble starts to return the hair stays under the skin and creates a little white head until the hair has penetrated through. How can I prevent this?”
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be a pleasure and not a chore
AARON SAYS
“Mr Johnson,
This is a troublesome problem. The chin is one of the harder areas to shave along with the upper lip and small hollow areas of the neck.
I would watch for too much tightness when you shave the chin. Having a flat surface to shave on is good, but stretched too tight is another problem.
Also, try only shaving with the grain on your chin for a few days, and see if this clears the problem. If so, you can determine that techniques used when going across the grain may be the problem.
To help relieve the in grown hairs and release them from the skin sooner use a gentle scrub wash on your chin. Hopefully we can nail this down and find you some relief soon!
Cheers!
Aaron”
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Bluebeards Revenge nominated for two FHM grooming awards
Posted in Shaving Shack News, The Bluebeards Revenge | Comments (0)
Two products stocked by The Shaving Shack have been shortlisted for coveted FHM male grooming awards.
The Bluebeards Revenge’s beard reducing shaving cream (100ml) is up for product of the year and the brand’s “Scimitar” double edge razor has been nominated for best razor.
The Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” Double Edge Razor
Both products were selected from hundreds of entries by a group of leading men’s grooming experts, the magazine said.
FHM is a mainstream men’s lifestyle magazine and because of this generally only shortlists products that are stocked in supermarkets or Boots.
This makes the Scimitar’s achievement even more impressive, and hopefully represents a change in attitudes in the wet shaving market. Many men we talk to are fed up to the back teeth with the rising cost of cartridge razor blades and the fact they give a pretty poor shave.
The ‘Scimitar’ is up against the Gilette Fusion ProGlide, Superdrug Triple Blade Razor and Wilkinson Sword Hydro 5 Power Select razor.
You can vote for our products online at: http://www.fhm.com/site/pages/grooming/voting.aspx
Ask Aaron Q/A: Shaving mug vs shaving bowl vs shaving scuttle
Aaron is asked a question about the merits of shaving scuttles, shaving bowls and shaving mugs
Craig Bishop, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, I recently started DE shaving and I use a ceramic bowl to lather, I lather up and then float the bowl in the hot water, although still warm for the 2nd/3rd pass I can’t help thinking that a shaving scuttle (double walled) would be better at keeping the heat? What are your experiences with shaving scuttles versus shaving bowls/mugs? Thanks Craig Bishop.”
Shaving Scuttle vs Shaving Bowl
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Bishop,
Thanks for your question! I have had experience with both shaving bowls and shaving scuttles, and honestly they work out to about even. It all depends on the treatment and getting the water balance right in my opinion. There are gents that swear by scuttles, but in my opinion (and take it for what that is, opinion) you can achieve the same result with water and a bowl. I do greatly enjoy using my scuttle, especially in the colder months, don’t get me wrong. However, do I think it a necessary or superior shaving item? No. I hope this helps!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How to safely dispose of double edge safety razor blades
Aaron is asked a question about the safe disposal of double edge razor blades
Andy Fensom, from the UK, asks:
“Could you please tell me the correct way to dispose of my collection of used double edge razor blades.”
Proper disposal of used razor blades is important, especially if you use double-edged blades or you have small children in the house.
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Fensom,
Thanks for the question! Safe disposal of used double edge razor blades has been a problem for many years. What I personally have done, and many others I have seen, is take a tin food can and make a deposit bank with it. The ideal can has had broth or evaporated milk within and with a couple of simple household tools you can create a slot large enough to slip the blades in without them coming back out easily. This also allows for the liquid inside to come out for a win-win situation.
There are also many vintage banks out of the market and in second hand stores to be had. Also, many of the razor blades that come in dispensers (Feather and Wilkinson-Sword for example) have on the back a small slot for you to place the used blades back in. Be creative, there are many solutions one can find for disposing your blades, I’d love to hear what you end up with!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Cut throat shaving - the complete guide by the London School of Shaving
Shave like 007
One of the oldest and manliest grooming traditions, the cut throat shave, has come steaming back into fashion over the past six months, thanks in no small part to James Bond and the latest 007 film Skyfall.
During a scene in the film, British actress Naomie Harris gives 007, played by Daniel Craig, a close shave using a cut throat razor, whispering in his ear “sometimes the old ways are the best” as she performs the shave.
We even attributed the latest James Bond movie for a whopping 405% increase in sales of both our cut throat razors and shavettes.
With this in mind we decided to enlist the help of expert London barber Ian Woodmansey, from the London School of Shaving, to ensure every guy was fully briefed on the art of cut throat shaving and had all the right tips and tricks to achieve a great straight/cut throat razor shave.
Words by Ian Woodmansey
Introduction to the London School of Shaving
The London School of Shaving (LSoS) was established in early 2012 to teach men who are new to cut throat razor shaving some of the secrets of shaving with an old-school straight razor. Following the success of the 007 movie Skyfall, in which Daniel Craig proves that Bond is the ultimate man when he shaves with a cutthroat, the School has become the ‘go-to’ place to learn the art of this most refined form of shaving. LSoS has taught men from all walks of life and from all over the world how to shave, from London barristers to New York cops. The School, which is based in West Hampstead, is going from strength to strength and has teamed up with The Shaving Shack to give you the opportunity to pose questions to the cut throat shaving experts.
Ian Woodmansey
The London School of Shaving was founded by Ian Woodmansey, who first experienced cut throat shaving on a beach in India 13 years ago. He loved the experience so much that he decided to teach himself how to shave, and has never looked back since. After teaching himself how to use a cut throat, Ian then taught various friends the art of the ‘real’ shave before setting up LSoS. The School is a completely unique business, believed to be the only cut throat razor school on the face of the planet. Ian is passionate about the art of cut throat shaving and sees it as the most modern way of shaving, a way to escape the throw-away culture and to contribute to a life surrounded by quality. He wants to see the cut throat razor reclaim its rightful place as the 21st century way to shave, and invites you to follow this page to experience the pleasure and satisfaction of shaving ‘properly’.
Basic how-to-shave
The secret of a great cut throat shave can be summed up in a few key ideas: prepare the beard well; use the correct equipment; stretch the skin well; keep the angle of the blade at a steady 30 degrees, and use a very light touch. If you follow these rules you won’t go far wrong - although they still take some practicing.
There are some minor complications, such as the chin and the area below the nose, but practice will soon make perfect. If possible, force yourself to shave with both your dominant and less dominant hand – although it feels uncomfortable and slightly odd to begin with, you will soon get used to shaving with the ‘wrong’ hand and it will make life significantly easier in the long run.
The preparation of the beard is key: the best advice is to shave after a shower when the stubble is good and soft. Before lathering up, apply some pre-shave oil and then use a shaving brush to apply a good quality shaving soap. Barbers who shave people all day every day spend at least a minute or two building up a great lather on the face with a shaving brush – they do this because they know that it will make the shave significantly easier. It’s worth investing in decent shaving soap or cream; cheap soaps will dry out quickly meaning you have to use twice as much. Ensuring the edge of your razor – whether a traditional cut throat or a shavette razor - is super sharp is also vital (this can be achieved by good maintenance through honing and stropping the edge of the blade).
Once you are ready to shave, concentrate on 3 key things: the angle of the blade, the lightness of your touch, and how you stretch the skin in front of the blade. The angle should not be more than 30 degrees from the skin, the touch should be extremely light, and the skin should be stretched to ensure that a ridge of skin does not build up in front of the blade, thereby causing a nick. You should shave with the grain first, then across the grain, and for an incredibly close shave, against the grain last. Usually the first one or two of these should be sufficient.
When you have finished, splash cold water on your face to close up your pores, use a block of alum to disinfect your face and close up any small nicks, and apply some post-shave moisturiser. I swear by E45, which is kind to even the most sensitive of skin.
Different types of cut throat razors (shavette, single blade, etc) and their pros and cons
When starting to shave with a cut throat you have two main choices when it comes to shaving equipment: an old school straight razor or a ‘shavette’ straight razor with replaceable blades.
Each have their pros and cons. The traditional cut throat razor, as used by your granddad, has a certain cachet, a certain authenticity. When people imagine shaving with a cut throat razor this is what they think of: a cold, solid piece of steel slicing through stubble. This is the way 007 shaves, and there is nothing quite like it. However, despite its undoubted cool quotient, the traditional straight razor requires some looking after. For some this is one of its attractions, for others it is definitely a downside. It is important to ensure the blade does not rust. It is necessary to realign and mildly sharpen the edge of the blade after each use by running it over a strop. Every once in a while it is necessary to hone (sharpen) the blade edge on a stone designed for that purpose. These are all skills that one can learn over time, but they are not things that feel immediately natural, and they do take some time to master. So, with a traditional cut throat the deal is style vs. upkeep. It’s a bit like having a 1958 silver-grey 2-seater convertible Mercedes: it looks fantastic and people will definitely watch as you go past, but it requires TLC to keep it on the road.
Manufacturers – including our friends at The Bluebeards Revenge - are also now making shavette razors, which are very much in the spirit of the old school straight razor, but without the necessary maintenance. Shavette razors are a similar shape to cut throat razors, but they have one key difference: they take a replaceable razor blade that can be slotted into the cutting edge. Some say they lack some of the cachet of the traditional straight razor, although that’s strictly a matter of personal taste. What is certain, though, is that they require less upkeep. There is no need to keep the edge of the blade sharp – if it gets blunt you simply slot in a new razor blade. This means there is no need for stropping or honing, and therefore no need for the various bits of equipment necessary to run an old school razor. If you have children they are also safer (although not completely safe) to have around the house; and if you travel by air you should be able to take them in hand luggage through customs, even if you have to purchase new razor blades at your destination.
Personally, I use both. I love the authentic feel of a traditional straight razor on my face, and find using one is a very pleasurable experience. I have various old school razors – mainly British and German - and tend to use them at the weekend or as a treat on a weekday. On other days, when time is of the essence I often use my shavette, which is convenient, quick and gives an excellent shave. Horses for Courses!
We would like to take this opportunity to thank Ian for his time to write these excellent words and would recommend his school to all our customers.
For more information on the London School of Shaving, click here.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Proraso Shaving Cream: Tub vs Tube
Aaron is asked a question from a DE newbie about Proraso shaving cream and whether it’s better to store the cream in it’s original tube or a tub
Oliver Kenny, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I am fairly new to shaving cream. I’ve been using an old safety razor I got from my Grandfather but I’ve just been using ordinary shaving gel with it. But now I bought a tube of Proraso from you. I have used a fair amount of it but was told putting it in a tub would make lathering easier. Would you recommend putting it in a tub? Another problem I have is that a barber friend gave me a 500ml tube as a birthday present along with an alum block and some razors. I am worried this is going to go out of date and hard before I use all of it and would putting it in a tub make that worse? As you can probably tell I am new to this whole DE safety razor game, and any advice would be hugely appreciated. Thanks, Oliver Kenny.”
Proraso Shaving Cream Tube (150ml)
AARON SAYS
“Mr Kenny,
If it were me, I would keep the Proraso cream in the original tube. It’s designed to be there and will retain it’s original composition that way, if you were t put it into a pot or tub, unless it was very air tight, it would begin to dry out. Now having it dry out on you would not affect the effectiveness of the product, just make it a little harder to use and lose some of it’s scent. All you need is about an almond sized squirt of cream to whip into some great lather. I have seen pictures of that 500ml tube, and it would take you years to finish it off! It should keep for quite a long time sealed in the pouch. I wouldn’t open it unless you plan on using the large tube or splitting it with some friends. As long as it stays air tight afterwords, it should keep well for quite some time! Enjoy it, Proraso is a great product!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
Posted in Double Edge Shaving, Razor burn, rash & bumps, Shaving Tips | Comments (0)
One of the more frequent questions we receive for the Ask Aaron articles is with shaving blemishes and problems affecting the skin. Many complain of razor burn, redness, irritation, bumps, ingrown hairs and many other maladies. These issues can make shaving difficult at best and painful at worst! Thankfully there are many solutions to these problems to offer relief!
Razor rash is a problem for many men around the world
First let us deal with what is the most frequent complaint, razor burn. Razor burn is usually a redness soreness, or inflammation of the skin. These conditions are cause by the blade scraping against the skin removing the top layers of epidermis. To ease the inflammation and burn, if possible, give your face several days rest from shaving. Apply a moisturizing after shave balm such as Proraso, The Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Men-U, Castle Forbes, and E-shave to aid in helping the skin to heal. Use as little pressure as possible while shaving. If you are shaving with a double-edge razor make sure the angle of the razor is around thirty degrees, and you keep your wrist locked using your whole arm for the movement instead.
Ingrown hairs are less common than razor burn, but the more painful affliction shavers complain about. With an ingrown hair the hair grows under the surface of the skin causing damage, spots, and sometimes infection. The human hair has the same hardness as copper wire of the same diameter, so no wonder it hurts as a freshly cut hair grows and digs under the skin! If you currently have ingrown hairs avoid shaving the area for a few days and use a gentle scrub to bring the hair up to the skin’s surface. You can also use an old, clean toothbrush to brush at the hair and pull it to the surface as well. Keep the area well moisturized with lotion or balm to aid the healing process. Another remedy is crushing and creating a simple paste out of an aspirin or vitamin C. Applying the paste to the affected area helps to apply the healing acids in the aspirin and vitamin C and gives some pain relief as well.
To prevent ingrown hairs avoid shaving against the direction of hair growth
To prevent ingrown hairs avoid shaving against the direction of hair growth, especially if your hair grows closely parallel to the surface of the skin. Also consider using a razor that has as few blades as possible to shave with. Modern cartridge razors work on the principal of the first blade pulling the first hair up, the following blades cutting the hair, and the cut hair settling back down under the surface of the skin. With the freshly cut and sharp hair this is an immediate setup for an ingrown hair, especially if you already have trouble with them or have very curly hair.
“Masking” or a discoloration of the shaved area of skin is a malady that can be caused by poor technique or product, too much pressure, an allergic reaction to a certain ingredient (lime and sandalwood essential oils, or preservatives being the most common irritants), or a variety of other common factors. As with other troubles examine razor angle and technique, use a healing ski food or balm, and if possible allow the skin to rest for several days before shaving again.
Dumping the multi-bladed cartridge razor and investing in a DE safety razor can help to improve the quality of a shave
If you use a multi-bladed cartridge razor and are experiencing these or other skin problems, try a transition to a double edge razor. Many of the men we have corresponded with experience an alleviation of symptoms after switching. If your symptoms persist after trying the solutions above or worsen consider a consultation with your doctor or dermatologist as there may be underlying issues that may need addressing. We hope that if you are experiencing some of the problems above that you can find some relief in this advice soon! As always we wish you smooth and happy shaving!
Ask Aaron Q/A: I’m struggling to get a decent shave from a DE razor - What am I doing wrong?
Posted in Ask Aaron Q & A, Double Edge Shaving, Shaving Tips | Comments (0)
Aaron is asked a question from a DE newbie who is struggling to get a decent shave with his Edwin Jagger safety razor
Brendan Nichols, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve just bought my first DE saftey razor (EJ CHATSWOTH) and I have also invested in a Kent BK12 shaving brush to compliment it. I’ve been using my new razor now for 3 days but can’t seem to get a close shave like I did with a Mach 3 razor? I’m using feather blades with the razor but still can’t get a close shave (FEEL LIKE AN ELECTRIC SHAVE) and find myself going over the same parts 3 or 4 times, which for me is not good as I have very sensitive skin. As a result of this my skin has become blotchy and I’m already contemplating on giving up with DE shaving and going back to a Mach 3? I use good quality shaving cream (Geo f trumper) so I know its not this. I’m not sure if it’s just me being new to DE shaving and not getting my razor angle right? Not sure what to do I have spent a lot of money on my new razor but also dont want to irritate my skin any more. Do u have any suggestions please?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Nichols,
Well this is definitely not the start we want you to have to traditional shaving! You definitely have fine equipment to work with and I do not see that as a problem.
Try going back to the basics and making sure your technique is where it’s supposed to be. Are you creating a good thick lather that looks like meringue, is your razor angle around 30 degrees, lock your wrist and make the shaving motions with your arm, little to no pressure and other pieces of technique.
I also would consider switching the blade, Feathers can be harsh to a beginner and Derby’s, Astras, Personnas or Wilkinson-Sword blades may work better. Another thought, make sure the secondary plate (the one the blade rests on) isn’t upside down. It’s easy to do, even sometimes the more experienced ones of us (including myself here) have been known to do so.
Please reply back and let us know if this helps! We will do what we can to make sure your shaving experience is a smooth one!
Cheers,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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