Ask Aaron Q/A: I’m struggling to get a decent shave from a DE razor - What am I doing wrong?
Aaron is asked a question from a DE newbie who is struggling to get a decent shave with his Edwin Jagger safety razor
Brendan Nichols, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve just bought my first DE saftey razor (EJ CHATSWOTH) and I have also invested in a Kent BK12 shaving brush to compliment it. I’ve been using my new razor now for 3 days but can’t seem to get a close shave like I did with a Mach 3 razor? I’m using feather blades with the razor but still can’t get a close shave (FEEL LIKE AN ELECTRIC SHAVE) and find myself going over the same parts 3 or 4 times, which for me is not good as I have very sensitive skin. As a result of this my skin has become blotchy and I’m already contemplating on giving up with DE shaving and going back to a Mach 3? I use good quality shaving cream (Geo f trumper) so I know its not this. I’m not sure if it’s just me being new to DE shaving and not getting my razor angle right? Not sure what to do I have spent a lot of money on my new razor but also dont want to irritate my skin any more. Do u have any suggestions please?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Nichols,
Well this is definitely not the start we want you to have to traditional shaving! You definitely have fine equipment to work with and I do not see that as a problem.
Try going back to the basics and making sure your technique is where it’s supposed to be. Are you creating a good thick lather that looks like meringue, is your razor angle around 30 degrees, lock your wrist and make the shaving motions with your arm, little to no pressure and other pieces of technique.
I also would consider switching the blade, Feathers can be harsh to a beginner and Derby’s, Astras, Personnas or Wilkinson-Sword blades may work better. Another thought, make sure the secondary plate (the one the blade rests on) isn’t upside down. It’s easy to do, even sometimes the more experienced ones of us (including myself here) have been known to do so.
Please reply back and let us know if this helps! We will do what we can to make sure your shaving experience is a smooth one!
Cheers,
Aaron”
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Safety razor buying guide - How to choose the right DE safety razor
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to choosing the right double edge razor
Often the question asked by our customers after “How do I get started traditionally shaving?” comes “Which razor do I use?”. With so many varieties and choices on the market it is no doubt that the choices would be overwhelming. Three piece, two piece; adjustable versus non-adjustable; turn to open doors; chrome, satin, red, blue or black, ivory; aggressive versus mild shavers, no wonder it is confusing! Let’s shed some light on the essentials, how they will affect your shave, and some recommended models for you to try.
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
As you learn the technique of shaving with a double edge razor a milder shaving razor would be better than a more aggressive shaving razor. The milder razor would be more forgiving of poor technique or mistakes reducing the risk of nicks and cuts. This mildness or aggressiveness comes down to blade exposure: the lesser blade exposure the milder the shave and conversely the more blade exposed the more aggressive the shave. There are articles on shaving forums across the web identifying the exact blade gap measured in microns, but for our purposes here we won’t be that detailed. Typically those razors that are two or three pieces, and those that are non-adjustable are more mild. The noticeable exception to this rule is the Muhle R41, which despite being a three piece razor is one of the more aggressive shaving razors on the market.
The shape of your face and body is a thing to consider. If you have a smaller face, a razor with a large head such as the Merkur Vision or Futur would prove impractical to shave with. Also if you have large hands you might want to consider a razor with a longer handle. Razors such as the Merkur 38c Barberpole, Progress, 25c and 23c all either are or have long handled versions. Another point of consideration is grip and steadiness of hand. If you have concerns about being able to hold your razor, choose one with knurling (the criss-cross pattern cut into the metal), it will provide a rougher surface with less slippage.
The Goodfella Chrome Safety Razor
For our beginning shavers we recommend the Bluebeards Scimitar, Muhle R89, Merkur 38c barberpole, Edwin Jagger DE89 and Parker 94r. These razors all have good reputations within the shaving community, and have a lesser blade gap. As you progress in experience and technique the need to upgrade your razor or buy another may come. For the more experienced shaver we recommend the Merkur Progress, 37c Slant, Muhle R41, and Merkur Futur amoung others. These razors are aggressive in nature, or can adjust their blade gap from a mild exposure to a much wider gap. Another option would be the open comb razor. The comb allows for a closer exposure to the blade and the comb acts as a guide for the hair leading it directly to the blade. Gentlemen with hair that grows closely to the skin, or with tough beards seem to benefit best from an open comb such as the Merkur 23c, 15c, Fatip Piccolo, and Goodfella.
Whatever your needs are: shaving fine or coarse hair, thin or thick, knowing your face and knowing the right razor to suit your needs will go a long way in improving your grooming experience.
The ultimate guide to double edge shaving - DE shaving for beginners
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to double edge shaving
Here at Shaving Shack, our mailbox is flooded with gents often complaining, and rightly so, about the high costs of cartridges and asking advice about how to get started traditionally shaving. It is undisputable that shaving with a double edge razor is less expensive than using modern cartridges. Just a simple cost comparison shows that for the same price of a pack of 4 replacement cartridges, you can buy 50-100 double edge blades. We love hearing from you our loyal customers and would like to offer you some practical points on how to get started!
The first place to start would be the equipment: razor, blades, brush, soap/cream, and aftershave. It seems like a lot, but once you get these main purchases down they will last you for many years, decades, or life. As with many purchases start with what you can afford, and as you get used to traditional shaving explore and find which items suit your needs best.
Double Edge Safety Razors
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Your razor should be one with good reviews and from a reputable company such as Merkur, Muhle, Edwin Jagger, or The Bluebeards Revenge. I personally recommend The Bluebeards Scimitar, Merkur 34C, and Edwin Jagger DE89 as great beginner razors.
Shaving Soaps & Creams
The Bluebeards Revenge is one of the best shaving creams on the market
Soaps and creams can be found in a huge variety of scents and flavours. If you know your water type, creams tend to work better in hard water and soaps better in soft water. However, this is not a hard and fast rule, and good technique can overcome most water quality issues. Many of the most popular companies to produce soaps and creams are Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Cyril Salter, Mitchell’s Wool Fat, and Proraso amoung many others.
Double Edge Razor Blades
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience, but it is best to start with a good standard blade and as your technique improves, then find a blade that more suits your face. Some of the most popular blades are Derby, Feather, Personna, Shark, and Wilkinson-Sword.
Shaving Brushes
A shaving brush can improve the overall quality of a shave
An overwhelming variety of choices can be found for the shaving brush, with the hair type being the most obvious. Choices of boar bristle, badger hair, and a variety of synthetics are available on the market. If your convictions lead you to stay away from animal products, you are in luck as many advancements in recent years have led to great strides in synthetic fibers being able to function as natural hair. The Men-U brushes have received rave reviews in their ability to hold water and produce good lather. The Bluebeards Vanguard brush should also be a good bet to try as well. For a natural hair brush, boar bristle brushes tend to be less expensive, but perform well. The Semogue 830 and 1305 are quite popular, as is the Vulfix Grosvenor, and the Bluebeards Revenge Dubloon. The badger hair brush has been used for many many years, and is the most desirable. It has a superior water retaining quality, softness on the face, and a superior lathering ability. There are many to choose from and a few recommended would be the Bluebeard Privateer, the Kent BK4, Simpsons Duke, with Plisson being the cream of the crop. As mentioned above buy the best you can afford, the quality will reward you with a better feel, and longevity.
The Perfect Shaving Routine
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be a pleasure and not a chore
To perform the shave, first shower or hold a hot wet towel to the face; this softens the outer layer of hair allowing for an easier cut. Prepare the brush by soaking it in water, then gently shaking the majority of the water out. Gently press the tips of the brush into the cream or soap gathering enough material to shave with. Lather your soap in a bowl or on your face using a whipping motion and adding water as needed to create a thick lather that resembles whipped cream or meringue. Holding your razor against the face an an approximate 30 degree angle, shave with as little pressure as possible in the direction of hair growth. Remember to use short strokes and rinse the razor often. After you have completed the first pass, re-lather and shave across the direction of hair growth, then rinse the lather from your face. After rinsing apply your choice of aftershave, whether a balm or alcohol based splash.
Shaving Tips
A few tips as you improve your technique: keep your wrist locked and use a whole arm motion, a pre-shave oil will help those gents with tougher beards to retain moisture and provide glide, leaving 2-3 days between shaves gives the skin rest and leaves longer hair to shave. With these general gear guides and tips we hope you will have the information to choice your equipment well and have a fabulous shave!
If you have any questions for Aaron please submit them here.
Ultimate shaving guides
> Safety razor buying guide – How to choose the right DE safety razor
> Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
> How to care for a shaving brush – Top tips for maintaining your shaving brush
> An easy step-by-step method for getting the best lather out of shaving cream
Ask Aaron Q/A: Straight razor maintenance - Honing & Stropping
Aaron is asked a question about honing and stropping a straight/cut throat razor
James Allen, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, my face is on fire and I have about 5 cuts as well. I am new to shaving with a straight razor and have tried to hone and strop the blade myself. I used a 800 grit stone, then onto an 8000+ slate stone, then strop. The blade will pop hairs from my arm but when I try to shave with it, it just isn’t sharp enough. Please tell me where I’m going wrong? (had to abandon my shave 3/4′s of the way through to) very painfull.”
Honing and sharpening your own straight razor is a fine art
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Allen,
Honing and sharpening your own straight razor is a fine art. From what I have read, you need even finer grit honing stones to continue your process.
I definitely recommend taking your razor to your local barber, or finding a honing specialist in the UK through one of the many online shaving forums (straightrazorplace.com, badgerandblade.com, and shavenook.com are the most popular). Many gentlemen there will be able to hone your razor, and give you tips and tricks on how to learn to hone it yourself.
Also you can find great information on stropping your blade (rolling the edges will defeat all your honing work!) and shaving technique. Good luck with your new shaving venture, and I wish you the very best!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Sore skin & small blood spots on chin & neck after shaving
Aaron is asked a question about sore skin & small blood spots on chin and neck after shaving
Andrew James, from the UK, asks:
“Hi there, new to double edge shaving from 18 years of cartridge shaving. Using Merkur HD and only tried Merkur blades so far. First pass WTG generally ok but tried second pass ATG yesterday (after re soaping) which left sore skin and small blood spots on chin and neck - ouch. What blade should I try next? Also, maybe I should stick to one pass, but I would like to do at least two to get a pretty close shave. Would value advice please. Ps; this blog facility is great.”
Take time, focus on basic technique, and enjoy the process, says Aaron
AARON SAYS
“Mr. James,
I would first make sure that you are developing your lather correctly, have a good blade angle (it should be about 30 degrees), and preparing your beard well by either showering or a hot towel.
Next I would say that since you are new to shaving with a single edge razor don’t shave against the grain. At the most right now go across, or perpendicular, to the beard growth. You may also take a second pass with the grain too, to increase the closeness of the shave. Shaving against the grain is a little bit advanced, and some say unnecessary, although it is something I practice for a close shave.
If you are looking to change the blades, I recommend the Israeli made blades, Astras, Derby, Lord, Sharks, and Wilkinson-Sword blades. I don’t recommend Feather blades until you are more comfortable with your shaving technique, they are incredibly sharp and unforgiving of mistakes.
I realize this is a lot of information at once. Take time, focus on basic technique, and enjoy the process! Soon you will be shaving easily and nick-free in no time.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Palm stropping & corking of razor blades
Aaron is asked a question about double edge razor blade harshness
Grant Letham, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I’m enjoying my double edge shaving experience with my Edwin Jagger D89. Currently using routine of shower, King of Shaves shaving oil, lather - proraso or arko, 2 pass shave - 1 with and 1 across grain, cold water rinse and then moisturiser. I’m finding the first shave with a fresh blade can be risky in terms of nicks and cuts. Any clues as to how I can minimise / avoid this?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Letham,
I too experience new blade harshness occasionally. I have heard this can be due to tiny burrs left over from the manufacturing process. There are two methods I would recommend trying: corking and palm stropping.
For corking, take a natural cork stopper from a wine bottle, and run the blade edge into the cor gently two or three times.
For palm stopping, grasp the blade in the middle and rub the blade away from the edge on the thick of your palm. This can be a little bit tricky, so watch the following video tutorial to see exactly what I mean: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ogq4wfpT7hc. This should help with those new blade blues!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Redness around the mouth
Aaron is asked a question about skin irritation and redness around the mouth
John Ramsay, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I just bought the osma alum bloc and started to use it after shaving. I started by wetting the block and applying it to my face, I let it set in for a minute and then rinsed off, then applied some aftershave lotion. But there was still redness around my mouth -am I doing something wrong?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Ramsey,
The redness around your mouth could be a variety of things. It coud be irritation from the block, or shaving irritation. The mouth area tends to be one of the hardest areas to shave. I would pay special attention to the angle of your razor, rub on the alum block then immediately wash off, and be sure to use a good moisturizing balm. If you continue to experience redness, reply below and we’l try to troubleshoot some more! I hope this helps and gives you some relief.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Cold Weather Shaving & Moisturising The Skin
Aaron is asked a question about skin irritation (after shaving) during the cold weather & what can be done to alleviate the problem
Jorge Flores, from Mexico, asks:
“Dear Aaron. I’m from Chiapas, Mexico, and frequently have to travel around my country, but the weather in the cities can be very different. It’s either very, very, very hot or very, very, very cold, so my question is this: When I have to shave in the cold weather my skin becomes very irritated and I don’t know if there is a product on the market that exists to help overcome this problem. I appreciate your answer.”
The Bluebeards Revenge post balm will help to nourish the skin after shaving
AARON SAYS
“Senor Flores,
The irritation you are experiencing is probably due to dryness from shaving and the cold, dry air. The product I would suggest to help is an aftershave balm such as the Blubeards Revenge balm or one of many others, and if you still continue to experience discomfort, a moisturizer such as the Men-U moisturizer.
Both shaving and dry air can rob the skin from moisture and you want to add and keep moisture in be using a balm and/or a moisturizer to combat the discomfort. Let me know if you continue to have trouble but using these products should alleviate the problem!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Styptic Pencil vs Alum Block
Aaron is asked a question about the advantages of using an alum block over a styptic pencil
Michael Behan, from the UK, asks:
“Like lots of shavers, if/when I get a small cut or nick whilst shaving, a styptic pencil will stem the bleed. What advantage is there in using an alum block, which costs twice as much as a styptic pencil?”
An alum block
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Behan,
While they styptic pencil and the alum block both take care of nicks, the basic purpose is different. Most people use the alum block as part of an aftershave routine, and the styptic pencil is a spot treatment. I hope this helps!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Double edge safety razor blades: Stainless Steel vs Platinum
Aaron is asked a question about the differences between stainless steel & platinum double edge razor blades
Jon Strutt, from the UK, asks:
“I’m thinking of buying some Astra double edge razor blades - what are the pro’s and cons of the Stainless Steel vs Platinum?”
Made in Egypt, the PTFE coated Shark Super Stainless is a favourite to rival the mighty Feather in the double edge shaving world.
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Strutt,
Blades are the most subjective and personable part of shaving, so please take whatever advice given as a personal anecdote. For starters, the main difference is the material and coating treatments that the blades receive. As to how it feels on the face, for me the Platinum blades were smoother and sharper than the Stainless. However, that experience can vary from person to person. I encourage you to try both and see which feels the best to you.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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