The ultimate guide to double edge shaving - DE shaving for beginners
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to double edge shaving
Here at Shaving Shack, our mailbox is flooded with gents often complaining, and rightly so, about the high costs of cartridges and asking advice about how to get started traditionally shaving. It is undisputable that shaving with a double edge razor is less expensive than using modern cartridges. Just a simple cost comparison shows that for the same price of a pack of 4 replacement cartridges, you can buy 50-100 double edge blades. We love hearing from you our loyal customers and would like to offer you some practical points on how to get started!
The first place to start would be the equipment: razor, blades, brush, soap/cream, and aftershave. It seems like a lot, but once you get these main purchases down they will last you for many years, decades, or life. As with many purchases start with what you can afford, and as you get used to traditional shaving explore and find which items suit your needs best.
Double Edge Safety Razors
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Your razor should be one with good reviews and from a reputable company such as Merkur, Muhle, Edwin Jagger, or The Bluebeards Revenge. I personally recommend The Bluebeards Scimitar, Merkur 34C, and Edwin Jagger DE89 as great beginner razors.
Shaving Soaps & Creams
The Bluebeards Revenge is one of the best shaving creams on the market
Soaps and creams can be found in a huge variety of scents and flavours. If you know your water type, creams tend to work better in hard water and soaps better in soft water. However, this is not a hard and fast rule, and good technique can overcome most water quality issues. Many of the most popular companies to produce soaps and creams are Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Cyril Salter, Mitchell’s Wool Fat, and Proraso amoung many others.
Double Edge Razor Blades
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience, but it is best to start with a good standard blade and as your technique improves, then find a blade that more suits your face. Some of the most popular blades are Derby, Feather, Personna, Shark, and Wilkinson-Sword.
Shaving Brushes
A shaving brush can improve the overall quality of a shave
An overwhelming variety of choices can be found for the shaving brush, with the hair type being the most obvious. Choices of boar bristle, badger hair, and a variety of synthetics are available on the market. If your convictions lead you to stay away from animal products, you are in luck as many advancements in recent years have led to great strides in synthetic fibers being able to function as natural hair. The Men-U brushes have received rave reviews in their ability to hold water and produce good lather. The Bluebeards Vanguard brush should also be a good bet to try as well. For a natural hair brush, boar bristle brushes tend to be less expensive, but perform well. The Semogue 830 and 1305 are quite popular, as is the Vulfix Grosvenor, and the Bluebeards Revenge Dubloon. The badger hair brush has been used for many many years, and is the most desirable. It has a superior water retaining quality, softness on the face, and a superior lathering ability. There are many to choose from and a few recommended would be the Bluebeard Privateer, the Kent BK4, Simpsons Duke, with Plisson being the cream of the crop. As mentioned above buy the best you can afford, the quality will reward you with a better feel, and longevity.
The Perfect Shaving Routine
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be a pleasure and not a chore
To perform the shave, first shower or hold a hot wet towel to the face; this softens the outer layer of hair allowing for an easier cut. Prepare the brush by soaking it in water, then gently shaking the majority of the water out. Gently press the tips of the brush into the cream or soap gathering enough material to shave with. Lather your soap in a bowl or on your face using a whipping motion and adding water as needed to create a thick lather that resembles whipped cream or meringue. Holding your razor against the face an an approximate 30 degree angle, shave with as little pressure as possible in the direction of hair growth. Remember to use short strokes and rinse the razor often. After you have completed the first pass, re-lather and shave across the direction of hair growth, then rinse the lather from your face. After rinsing apply your choice of aftershave, whether a balm or alcohol based splash.
Shaving Tips
A few tips as you improve your technique: keep your wrist locked and use a whole arm motion, a pre-shave oil will help those gents with tougher beards to retain moisture and provide glide, leaving 2-3 days between shaves gives the skin rest and leaves longer hair to shave. With these general gear guides and tips we hope you will have the information to choice your equipment well and have a fabulous shave!
If you have any questions for Aaron please submit them here.
Ultimate shaving guides
> Safety razor buying guide – How to choose the right DE safety razor
> Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
> How to care for a shaving brush – Top tips for maintaining your shaving brush
> An easy step-by-step method for getting the best lather out of shaving cream
Ask Aaron Q/A: Neck irritation after shaving
Charles Culverwell, from UK, asks:
“I have been wet shaving for about four months now. I have a Futur, 38C barber pole, Gillette ’1964′ superspeed, and an Edwin Jagger DE89. I use Taylor of Old Bond St Shaving Cream. Despite varying the razor and the blade (feathers or derbys usually) I still get irritation at the base of my neck where the last bit of hair is. The direction of growth is a bit strange as it goes sideways. I have tried going up and down but still find I get a red ring like I’ve had a rope around my neck. This issue continues to my Adam’s apple area which I can’t shave across the grain without huge irritation and bleeding! Could you please suggest anything else to try.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Culverwell, I certainly understand your frustration, the hair on my neck grows in the same way changing direction to grow sideways at the collar line. This growth pattern does make it difficult to shave, however let me share some techniques and products that I have found that have helped.
First use a shaving oil whether by itself or as an under layer to the shaving cream. This keeps the skin and hair extra moist leaving it much easier to shave. The oil also adds an extra layer of lubrication helping the razor “glide” instead of catching and causing irritation or redness.
Second use stretching techniques to keep the skin flat and taught. A flatter surface is always easier to shave and you can accomplish this by stretching your neck up, turning your head side to side, or even using your opposite hand to pull the skin down or to the side. This step reduces the curves in your skin giving the razor a flatter, easier surface to shave.
Lastly use a good quality post-shave balm, not an alcohol based lotion on freshly shaved skin. The moisturizing and healing agents found in post-shave balms will greatly benefit your skin in combating and healing from razor burn, rash, ingrowns and other issues that plague the shaver. There are many balms out there to choose from including The Bluebeards Revenge, Proraso, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Men-U, and Edwin Jagger just to name a good, select few.
I hope these tips help with your shaving, if you continue to have problems please write again and we will troubleshoot some more!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Upgrading my shaving kit, what should I invest in?
Chris Walker, from Hungry, asks:
“Hi there, I was wondering what next to invest in to upgrade my shaving kit? I currently own 2 DE razors (A Merkur 11c and a Muhle 89R) and these are great but I have a very cheap drugstore brush and cream. Which would you recommend buying first? A quality shaving brush or quality shaving cream to upgrade?
Many Thanks, C.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Walker,
I would recommend upgrading to a better cream next. Using a better cream will much improve your shave and you can still use the inexpensive brush for quite some time and still get good results. I would suggest you try Bluebeard’s Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Edwin Jagger, Truefitt & Hill and many others you will find here. Good luck and enjoy the new cream!
Cheers,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Top shaving tips for an irritation free shave
Jose a Diaz Ocasio, from Puerto Rico, asks:
“I want to get a clean close shave every time I shave. So I was wondering if you can provide me with some useful shaving tips for a clean close shave?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Ocasio,
I’ve written several articles on this subject, but will try to condense them into a concise answer for you. First make sure you start with a clean well hydrated face. Then shave with a good sharp blade using a good hydrating cream, and I recommend applying a layer of shaving oil first before applying the shaving cream. Once you begin shaving shave first with the direction of growth, then across, then against to get a very close shave. Use some stretching techniques to help get the skin surface as flat as possible. There is a lot more detail and technique that could be gone into, but using these tips should help improve your smooth shaves a lot!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
How to shave the Bluebeards way!!
The Bluebeards Revenge claims to have finally produced a ‘how to shave’ video that will help men eradicate shaving problems like razor rash, razor burn and razor bumps for good.
The video stars master barber Andy Dunn
According to the popular men’s grooming brand, there is finally a ‘how to shave’ video that is “actually designed for real men, manly men that have suffered for eternity from common and painful shaving irritations like razor bumps and burn”.
Produced by Adelia TV, it stars Andy Dunn, master barber at Tom, Dick and Harrys in Axminster, Devon.
”Andy is what we like to call a ‘real man’; he’s a retained fire fighter, a qualified barber and drives a Harley Davidson,” said Nick Gibbens, from The Bluebeards Revenge - the company behind the video.
“He is certainly someone who recognises the manliest of shaves.”
According to Andy, the perfect shave can be boiled down into four key areas - Prepare, Lather, Shave and Protect.
Prepare:
Use plenty of warm water to soften the bristles and open the pores
Apply the Bluebeards Revenge Pre Shave Oil
Get a feel for the direction in which your hair grows
Lather:
Apply using your fingers or a shaving brush
A shaving brush gives you the best possible lather
A brush lifts your bristles and gently exfoliates the skin
Shave:
Always use a sharp razor blade and use short strokes
Don’t press to hard – Let the weight of the razor do the cutting
Rinse the razor often
Only go against the grain when you have experience
Find the best combination of passes
Protect:
Rince you face with cool water to close the pores
Pat your face dry with a towel
Apply the Bluebeards Revenge Post Shave Balm
You can also visit http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ne9_Npe8Tgs
Ask Aaron Q/A: Top tips for avoiding nicks & cuts whilst double edge shaving
Richard Mitchell, from the USA, asks:
“Hi, Have been using a straight razor which I got from Turkey - was concerned about safety although I did not cut myself at all and had a really good close shave. I bought a Parker DE razor and have done nothing but cut and nick myself. I even changed the shave soap thinking it was that, could the razor be faulty or what am I doing wrong? Thanks Richard”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Mitchell, I am sorry you’re having such trouble. The two main things that come to mind are these: the angle and the blade. The blade angle for a double edge razor is quite different from a straight razor and should be at about 30 degrees or so. The next would be that you are using a blade that is not suitable for either your skin or hair type. I would purchase a few different types or brands of blades, or buy a sample pack and see how that changes the shave for you as well. It is a powerful as turning on a light switch in a dark room when finding that right combination!
Happy shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Preventing razor burn & razor bumps
Matt Herridge, from the UK, asks:
“Hi there, I’ve recently started shaving with a DE razor, I always get a very good close shave with no irritation, nicks or cuts even after shaving against the grain which I often have to do as I am in the British army, until the day after, that’s when I wake up with red bumps and very tender feeling skin especially under and on the front of my chin and my neck. My cheeks and top lip stay fine, any help would be greatly appreciated.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Herridge,
It sounds as if you’re getting some razor burn and bumps. I would suggest paying very close attention to your razor angle, and making sure it’s not too shallow on your face. Also, try some stretching techniques to flatten and smooth those areas. This should greatly help! Also, use a nice soothing aftershave balm to help calm the areas, and a lotion or moisturizer before bed.
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: How to avoid white-heads & bumps
Jamie Hare, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, Thank you for this opportunity. Occasionally, I tend to get small white-heads/white bumps on the area below my nostrils/above my top lip. Do you know how to avoid this?”
AARON SAYS
“There are a number of things that could be causing the irritation and bumps you describe. I wouldn’t want to directly diagnose exactly what is going on, but let me offer some tips to help and alleviate the issue. Make sure that when you are finished shaving you clean this area well, rinsing with warm water first, then cold water. If you are shaving with a Safety Razor watch the angle of the blade, making sure it’s close to a 30 degree angle. If you are not shaving with a safety razor, I recommend switching over; the cartridge may be causing the irritation. In reducing the hair go with the direction of growth only, but if that is not close enough go across after that. See if these things help to alleviate the bumps and feel free to contact us again if you need more help!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron ”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q&A: How do you achieve the best possible shave?
Darren Edwards, from the UK, asks:
“I recently enjoyed a professional wet shave and have decided to ditch the Gillette M3 Power razor and cheap foams for a decent shave. I’ve just bought a Wilkinson Sword DE razor from boots and some Men-U shaving cream, as well as some balms. What would YOUR recommendation be to achieve the best shave? I’m looking to get the Parker 89R.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Edwards,
We are so glad you’re taking the plunge into traditional shaving! I like to reduce getting a great shave into three easy steps: Prepare, Shave, Protect. Prepare your face for shaving by taking a shower beforehand and use a good face wash or scrub. Also once you step out of the shower apply a good pre-shave oil. Shave your face by using a good balanced razor, a sharp blade, and a good shaving cream applied with a brush (i.e. Bluebeard’s Revenge, Coates, Trumper’s etc.). Shave in three passes going with, across, and against the grain for a close smooth shave. Remember we are just reducing the beard, not trying to remove it, so just let the razor glide across your face, don’t bear down or put any pressure on it. Protect by rinsing your face first in warm water then cold water. Afterward apply a good after shave balm to help protect and keep your skin smooth and hydrated.
If you will follow this three easy steps you will have some of the best shaves ever in no time!.
Smooth shaving! Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q&A: Problems shaving under the nose
Christopher McClure, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve been using a double-edge safety razor for a couple of months and have largely mastered my morning shave. The one area where I still struggle to get a really close shave is under my nose. I shave in three passes, but everytime I try to shave against the grain, on the third pass, under my nose I end up cutting myself - do you have any advice? I’m using a Merkur 34C, Feather blades, King of Shaves oil and Shaving Shack soap.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. McClure,
The mustache is truly a hard area to shave and your problem is common to many men. Thank you for asking! From your list it seems you have great products behind your shave, so don’t change anything there. Because the nose gets in the way and it’s so hard to maintain a proper angle. If you could live with it, try going without the against the grain pass. If you want a closer shave try going across the grain again in the opposite direction. Another solution would be to go against the grain, just not with as full on an angle. If the direction South was with the direction of growth, and West/East is across, then try going Northeast and Northwest instead of fully north. Shaving in the slightly altered direction will provide a slicing motion as well going against the grain. This action is often called the “Gillette slide” and can be helpful along with other advanced shaving techniques such as “Blade buffing” and “J-hooking”.
Smooth shaving! Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
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