Why a double edge razor is technically better than a cartridge based razor system
As Gillette launches its much-hyped Fusion ProGlide Power razor in the UK - I take a quick look at why a double edge razor is still technically superior to a ProGlide or any other cartridge based razor system out there.
For those who use double edge safety razors for shaving on a regular basis, the answer to the question “Why is a double edge razor technically better than a cartridge based razor system?” may seem quite obvious: ‘because you get better results’. However, for the rest of the men out there who use multi-bladed cartridges instead - and let’s face it that includes the vast majority of men in the Western world - they may wonder why they should ever consider changing their shaving method?
Well, the real answer to the question above lies within the technology of the types of razor on offer. From a scientific standpoint double edge safety razors certainly have the edge over cartridge based razor systems like the Fusion ProGlide Power razor, Wilkinson Sword Hydro and the King of Shaves Azor.
I recently spoke to American wet shaving expert Mike Sandoval, who runs the Shaving101 website, about why the cartridge razor system was so popular.
Gillette has unveiled the new Fusion ProGlide Power razor in the UK
“The cartridge razor system is appealing to many men because it is advertised to be modern and high performing with innovative designs and multi-blade cutting action,” he said. “High-dollar marketing campaigns feature celebrity athletes that promote modern cartridges as the only masculine option.”
So why do double edge razors produce a closer and more rewarding shave?
The cartridge system razor generally works by using its hinge or pivot point to maintain a constant angle on the face while shaving. And while there may be many other features or gimmicks they offer, this pivoting mechanism is the most important aspect of the razor at making the shave quick and easy to use – which is the key advantage of these razors.
“The problem is that the blades of a cartridge are close together with extremely small spacing between each cutting edge,” explains Mike. “The razor is unable to cleanly cutting hair without requiring multiple passes along your skin, catching and pulling long stubble, as well as constantly clogging during the shave.”
On the other hand, while double edge razors may take longer to get used too – with a short learning curve to overcome – you have far more control over the razor and the closeness of the shave itself. Therefore, with DE shavers the process may take longer, with shorter strokes, but you will notice an improvement in the (even more crucial) performance aspect of the shave.
Mike adds: ”The double edge safety razor uses a single cutting edge that tracks along the skin at a much more comfortable angle and cuts the hair cleanly without grabbing or pulling excessively (provided you choose the right blade for your beard and skin type).
Wilkinson Sword’s Hydro 5 razor system
”Although you won’t find many celebrity athletes promoting the double edge razor, there has been a strong resurgence in traditional shaving. Many men are returning to old-school shaving because it is more comfortable and more economical.”
If time really is the most important factor when shaving, a Hydro, Azor or ProGlide may be the answer, but if you are a man who likes to work with engineering excellence that has stood the test of time and has the patience to learn, then maybe it is time to think about leaving those expensive cartridges behind and opt for a results-proven double edged razor.
Gillette launched the new Fusion ProGlide Power razor in the UK this month. It is the latest addition to its growing family of Fusion razors with Gillette’s thinnest-ever blades. The firm says the ProGlide outperforms its existing Fusion razor.
There are two versions of the Gillette ProGlide, a battery-powered model and a manual version. The battery-powered Gillette Fusion ProGlide Power comes with one blade cartridge and is available priced £12.99. The manual version comes with two blade cartridges and costs £9.99.
Over the last few years, I have used many different brands of cartridge based razor system, including the Azor, Gillette Fusion Power Stealth and Gillette Mach 3 Turbo, Wilkinson Sword Quattro Titanium Energy and Wilkinson Sword Hydro 5 and Boots’ Hydro and Titanium Triple Razor, but personally still prefer the excitement and closeness of a DE razor.
The Merkur 33C Classic will always be my all-time favourite, but I would also highly recommend the Merkur Futur 760, Goodfella, Muhle R89 and the relatively new Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” Double Edge Razor.
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Double edge shaving tips
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Ask Mantic Q&A #4: How Many Passes?
Wet shaving guru Mantic has been taking part in a Question and Answer session with Shaving Shack visitors.
Already the US shaving legend has answered questions on brush break-in, runny lather and brush types.
And today’s question comes from Steve. He asks: “Would you recommend four quick and light passes, three slower passes, or try for a very careful two-pass shave for consistent close and comfortable results?”
You can watch Mantic’s answer in the video below.
How to shave without getting razor bumps or ingrown hair
Razor bumps and ingrown hair is a problem faced by many men who wet shave. It can become irritating to keep on experiencing an adverse reaction from shaving, especially when you know that this method is ultimately giving you better results than any other method you have tried in the past.
A smooth shave
The best way to overcome the inflammatory reaction to the condition, pseudofolliculitis barbae or “barber’s itch” as it is commonly known is to look at ways to prevent and minimise the effect of ingrown hairs in the first place. Once these unsightly bumps are present on the face, it is easy to aggravate the situation and make it worse.
One easy solution may be to just let the hair grow, but this is not always practical, especially those professionals who need to keep their beard well groomed for their job. However, you could try shaving every other day to see if this improves the situation. Here are a few tips to help you counter this common issue.
Make sure that the razor blade is in optimum condition and not well worn as this can affect the effects of wet shaving on the skin. Try shaving with the grain, in downward strokes.
One lesser acknowledged fact ignored by many men who use a straight razor, is that a shaving brush can become a pivotal tool in wet shaving. If you wish to reduce the number of ingrown hairs on the face as well as the chances of getting any nicks or cuts, you should consider preparing using a shaving brush. This will help to lift the hairs effectively from the face.
The products you use before and after shaving can impact on this situation. Using a facial scrub before shaving can also help to raise the hairs from under the skin. The shaving soap can have an effect on skin irritation, so make sure you choose one accordingly, and ensure it is suitable for your unique skin type.
Men’s grooming tips: A guide to wet shaving (part 3)
When wet shaving, if you try and follow the tried and tested approach we have been talking about, you are more likely to have a pain-free experience that goes easy on your skin. However, there are a few extra techniques you can use if you are a more experienced shaver, while there is also help out there for blokes with sensitive skin.
Post-shave
Immediately after you have finished shaving you will usually rinse the shaved area with cool water. If you find that this approach frequently leaves you suffering from razor burn and dryness, you can always try a final rinse with hot water instead, before dabbing a cloth soaked with witch hazel across your face.
The British male beauty market is worth £920m
There is also a number of soothing after-shave treatments available to buy which contain aloe to help calm the effects of shaving and alleviate any dryness. These creams, gels, balms and lotions can also encourage the healing of any minor nicks and cuts. You can apply a small amount of lotion evenly onto freshly-shaven skin straight after shaving.
A few final points
While you are shaving it is important to regularly rinse your razor in hot water.
As you become more experienced shaving with the grain, you can always experiment by passing the razor against and across the grain. These techniques are only really advised for those who are skilled at shaving and willing to try different combinations to find out what works best for them.
Everyone’s hair pattern grows differently, therefore it is often only through trial and error that you can determine what gives you a great smooth shave, by finding the right combination of passing the razor that works for you.
The pressure you apply, the amount of lather used and the angle of the razor are other factors that can influence the quality of the shave.
Again, it all depends on your skin, and smoother shaves often come at the expense of skin irritation.
Wet shaving tips for men - How to get the best wet shave (Part 2)
If you have purchased a cut-throat or safety razor but are still not 100% when using it, then the following advice may be of some use to you. There may be a number of wet shaving techniques out there that experienced shavers will swear by, but the basic principles are still generally the same. A wet shave can be divided into; pre-shave, shave and post-shave.
Pre-shave
The key to an effective shave is to prepare well beforehand. Firstly, you will need to soften the bristles, opening up the pores of the skin. This can be achieved by having a hot bath or shower, but if you do not have the time, you can always make use of a warm or hot flannel. Preparing in this way will increase the chances of a painless shave. If you have particularly sensitive skin or a heavy beard, it may be worth purchasing pre-shave oil and lubricate your whiskers with just a small amount, before the next stage of the process.
Shave
You now need to lather and massage your choice of shaving cream or soap into your stubble or beard. You need to do this thoroughly, so it is best to invest in a decent shaving brush.
When you are ready to begin; slowly, and remembering to use short strokes, shave with the grain. By shaving in the same direction as the hair growth, especially when fairly new to wet shaving, you are minimising the chances of causing razor burn, redness and rashes on the skin. The neck area is particularly sensitive and should be treated with due care.
In the third and final article on this subject, to be published on Wednesday 5 May, we will take a look at some more techniques you can use when wet shaving, along with post-shave advice.
Missed part 1? Here it is > Simple shaving tips for the perfect wet shave (Part 1)
Simple shaving tips for the perfect wet shave (Part 1)
Firstly, you may be wondering: why wet shaving in the first place? As you are probably aware, there are many high-tech electric razors on the market these days, so this would seem like a fairly understandable question to pose. The answer is simple though. If you are looking for a more effective shave that also offers you better looking skin, then wet shaving is the ONLY option available for real men.
This means that you now need to pick a side between a manual wet shave, or opt for an electric razor. Electric razors may save you time, especially in this fast-paced world we live in, but for quality of shave (and with less irritation) there is no comparison. This is because the hot water will open up the pores of your skin allowing your facial muscles to relax. It also softens your whiskers for a more effective all-round shave.
If you have decided on wet shaving, then welcome to the club. You now need to choose a top quality razor with the sharpest blades. While using a razor, make sure you keep an eye on how the blade is performing as it will need to be replaced from time to time. This will ensure you always benefit from an even shave and less chance of irritation to your face and neck.
No matter what razor you use, and how long you have been shaving for, there are always ways to improve your shaving technique.
In the next article, to be published on Friday 30 April, we will be taking a look at some of these and offer advice on how to get the best out of your shave. So please check back.
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