The ultimate guide to double edge shaving - DE shaving for beginners
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to double edge shaving
Here at Shaving Shack, our mailbox is flooded with gents often complaining, and rightly so, about the high costs of cartridges and asking advice about how to get started traditionally shaving. It is undisputable that shaving with a double edge razor is less expensive than using modern cartridges. Just a simple cost comparison shows that for the same price of a pack of 4 replacement cartridges, you can buy 50-100 double edge blades. We love hearing from you our loyal customers and would like to offer you some practical points on how to get started!
The first place to start would be the equipment: razor, blades, brush, soap/cream, and aftershave. It seems like a lot, but once you get these main purchases down they will last you for many years, decades, or life. As with many purchases start with what you can afford, and as you get used to traditional shaving explore and find which items suit your needs best.
Double Edge Safety Razors
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Your razor should be one with good reviews and from a reputable company such as Merkur, Muhle, Edwin Jagger, or The Bluebeards Revenge. I personally recommend The Bluebeards Scimitar, Merkur 34C, and Edwin Jagger DE89 as great beginner razors.
Shaving Soaps & Creams
The Bluebeards Revenge is one of the best shaving creams on the market
Soaps and creams can be found in a huge variety of scents and flavours. If you know your water type, creams tend to work better in hard water and soaps better in soft water. However, this is not a hard and fast rule, and good technique can overcome most water quality issues. Many of the most popular companies to produce soaps and creams are Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Cyril Salter, Mitchell’s Wool Fat, and Proraso amoung many others.
Double Edge Razor Blades
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience, but it is best to start with a good standard blade and as your technique improves, then find a blade that more suits your face. Some of the most popular blades are Derby, Feather, Personna, Shark, and Wilkinson-Sword.
Shaving Brushes
A shaving brush can improve the overall quality of a shave
An overwhelming variety of choices can be found for the shaving brush, with the hair type being the most obvious. Choices of boar bristle, badger hair, and a variety of synthetics are available on the market. If your convictions lead you to stay away from animal products, you are in luck as many advancements in recent years have led to great strides in synthetic fibers being able to function as natural hair. The Men-U brushes have received rave reviews in their ability to hold water and produce good lather. The Bluebeards Vanguard brush should also be a good bet to try as well. For a natural hair brush, boar bristle brushes tend to be less expensive, but perform well. The Semogue 830 and 1305 are quite popular, as is the Vulfix Grosvenor, and the Bluebeards Revenge Dubloon. The badger hair brush has been used for many many years, and is the most desirable. It has a superior water retaining quality, softness on the face, and a superior lathering ability. There are many to choose from and a few recommended would be the Bluebeard Privateer, the Kent BK4, Simpsons Duke, with Plisson being the cream of the crop. As mentioned above buy the best you can afford, the quality will reward you with a better feel, and longevity.
The Perfect Shaving Routine
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be a pleasure and not a chore
To perform the shave, first shower or hold a hot wet towel to the face; this softens the outer layer of hair allowing for an easier cut. Prepare the brush by soaking it in water, then gently shaking the majority of the water out. Gently press the tips of the brush into the cream or soap gathering enough material to shave with. Lather your soap in a bowl or on your face using a whipping motion and adding water as needed to create a thick lather that resembles whipped cream or meringue. Holding your razor against the face an an approximate 30 degree angle, shave with as little pressure as possible in the direction of hair growth. Remember to use short strokes and rinse the razor often. After you have completed the first pass, re-lather and shave across the direction of hair growth, then rinse the lather from your face. After rinsing apply your choice of aftershave, whether a balm or alcohol based splash.
Shaving Tips
A few tips as you improve your technique: keep your wrist locked and use a whole arm motion, a pre-shave oil will help those gents with tougher beards to retain moisture and provide glide, leaving 2-3 days between shaves gives the skin rest and leaves longer hair to shave. With these general gear guides and tips we hope you will have the information to choice your equipment well and have a fabulous shave!
If you have any questions for Aaron please submit them here.
Ultimate shaving guides
> Safety razor buying guide – How to choose the right DE safety razor
> Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
> How to care for a shaving brush – Top tips for maintaining your shaving brush
> An easy step-by-step method for getting the best lather out of shaving cream
The Sun newspaper puts double edge shaving firmly on the shave map
As you will probably be aware of the UK men’s shaving market is dominated by three big players -Gillete (owned by US giant Proctor and Gamble) and British brands Wilkinson Sword and King of Shaves (the brainchild of likeable entrepreneur Will King).
All three of these companies specialise in providing men with easy to use multi bladed cartridge razor systems, and in Gillette’s case, these products are backed and promoted with billionaire dollar marketing campaigns.
Thankfully there is still a market for traditional double edge safety razors, and its growing as more men get fed up with the increasing cost of cartridge razor blades. A recent study has found the annual cost of shaving with a Gillette Power Fusion, new cartridges and all, is an eye-watering £85.37.
But getting the message to the masses that double edge shaving is not only cheaper in the long run, but also much better for the skin, is a difficult one as the mainstream press favour the Gillette Power Fusion over the Merkur 34C and the Hydro 5 over the Edwin Jagger DE89.
Well that was until we contacted The Sun Newspaper journalist David Firth, who runs the highly popular Tried and Test section on The Sun website. David had previously tested out wet razors from the “big three” brands to see which was the best.
To our delight and slight surprise, he agreed to test three of our top selling safety razors - the Merkur 38c Barberpole, Parker 94R and The Bluebeards Revenge ‘Scimitar’ (which has graced the likes of the Daily Mail, Loaded and GQ).
So what did David think to the razors we sent him?
Merkur 38c
“My favourite of the three,” he said. David praised its balance, control and grip. “The diagonal thread design on the pole helps you keep a solid grip and I also like that you change the blade by simply unscrewing the base, rather than having to disassemble the whole thing. A great piece of kit,” he added. Price: £39.99. Buy here.
Parker 94R:
“The big plus-point with the Parker is the grip - thick, diamond-shaped ridges help keep this lodged in your hand no matter how much cream or water is knocking about,” explained David. He added that he liked the light weight of the razor; but found the short pole a little fiddly during the shave. Price £19.99. Buy here.
The Bluebeards Revenge ‘Scimitar’
David loved the look of the Scimitar. “It does look lovely, particularly with the laser-etched Bluebeards Revenge skull and cross bones logo on the razor head. As with the other two - it does give a great shave,” he said. Price £34.99. Buy here.
The Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” Double Edge Razor
Overall, David loved the theatre of double edge shaving. “You splash your face with warm water, apply a pre-shave cream to help the blade glide, then apply the shaving cream all frothed up with an old-school brush to exfoliate a bit and lift up your bristles. And then you can shave. It takes time but it’s a lot of fun,” he explained.
In conclusion, David said: “If you follow all the appropriate hints and tips on how to use double-edged blade razors properly - you can find loads of videos on YouTube - you will get the best shave of your life.”
Thanks for taking the double edge shaving test David, and for helping to bring such as a cool method shaving back in to the media spotlight. You can follow David on Twitter at @davefirth.
Read his full review by clicking here.
What do you think think to David’s comments? Let us know by commenting below.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Palm stropping & corking of razor blades
Aaron is asked a question about double edge razor blade harshness
Grant Letham, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I’m enjoying my double edge shaving experience with my Edwin Jagger D89. Currently using routine of shower, King of Shaves shaving oil, lather - proraso or arko, 2 pass shave - 1 with and 1 across grain, cold water rinse and then moisturiser. I’m finding the first shave with a fresh blade can be risky in terms of nicks and cuts. Any clues as to how I can minimise / avoid this?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Letham,
I too experience new blade harshness occasionally. I have heard this can be due to tiny burrs left over from the manufacturing process. There are two methods I would recommend trying: corking and palm stropping.
For corking, take a natural cork stopper from a wine bottle, and run the blade edge into the cor gently two or three times.
For palm stopping, grasp the blade in the middle and rub the blade away from the edge on the thick of your palm. This can be a little bit tricky, so watch the following video tutorial to see exactly what I mean: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ogq4wfpT7hc. This should help with those new blade blues!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Problems with shaving under the chin area
Aaron is asked a question about shaving under the chin
Nigel Watford, from the UK, asks:
“Currently using an Edwin Jagger DE89, with Gillette 7 o clock razor blades which I find are the best blades for me. Looking to change the razor. The size is fine but I’m struggling under the chin area. Thinking about a adjustable razor like a Merkur. Can you advise on a razor please? The blades and cream are fine.”
Merkur 37C Slant Bar DE Safety Razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Watford,
I’m glad you have a good set that works well for you. Under the chin is a common problem for many men and requires some good care and attention. An adjustable razor is a good place to start, and I highly recommend the Merkur Progress and the Merkur Futur.
Another product I would suggest is the Merkur 37c/ Slant razor. Using these razors can definitely help on your quest! Thanks for your question!!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Can you recommend me a safety razor & a shave cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Aaron is asked to recommend a safety razor and a shaving cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Luke Cressey, from the UK, asks:
“Hello again, I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, and was wondering what safety razor do you recommend that I try? I have never used a safety razor before but have a Bluebeards Revenge disposable blade cut-throat razor but never was quite sure what the correct angle is to use it and pressure. Does a safety razor do these for you already? I know there is some technique to it, and I know it takes time so I was wondering if you could please tell me which one you recommend and where do I go to find the info I need. I learn much better by watching than reading, especially when it comes to shaving. Thank you for taking the time to read this email it is much appreciated. Because I have a tough beard should I stay away from shaving creams that don’t lather directly on the face to safe the heat and moisture? Thanks again”
The Merkur 38C Barberpole is a heavy duty, long handled razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr Cressey,
I’m glad you are considering a safety razor! I understand your position, as I too have a tough beard and sensitive skin. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Muhle 89, the Bluebeard’s “scimitar”, the Edwin Jagger DE89, or the Merkur 38c “barberpole”. These are all great introductory razors. They do not set the angle for you, that is part of the technique you have to learn, but they are certainly more forgiving than a cut-throat or straight razor.
To answer your shaving cream question, I would stay away from canned foams and gels that use aerosols and other propellants. These contain large amounts of preservatives and chemicals that can dry out your skin and contain lots of air. I do recommend using a good cream or soap that using water to activate and can be used with a shaving brush (although many you can bring to a lather with just your hand too).
It sounds as if you might be a visual learner and to learn more by watching I highly recommend my friend Mantic59′s Youtube Channel. He has wonderful tutorials and does a great job explaining and demonstrating technique. Also look for videos by geofatboy, Lynn S. Abrams, and many others. The more you can watch the better idea you will have how to do it yourself.
This is quite the lengthy answer, I hope it gives you good information! Please contact us with any other questions you may have, and Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Shaving tips for those who like to explore the great outdoors
Whether it’s camping, fishing, backpacking, or any other activity, us men love spending time in the outdoors, enjoying nature to its fullest while being secluded.
One reccuring concern however for many of us who spend more than a day or two outdoors, is how to handle shaving.
There are two issues regarding shaving outdoors :
1. While many guys just settle for growing a temporary beard, others like myself who suffer from sensitive skin or specific facial hair types, find that a beard irritates their skin, followed by their moods.
2. Shaving outdoors is usually an experience that resembles a prison shave. For classic wet shave enthusiasts such as myself, this is quite depressing.
Luckily, I found that with pre-planning and some creativity, a classic wet shave in the outdoors is possible. In fact, I noticed that after implementing these methods, shaving in the outdoors turned into something I look forward to, rather than dread, as it has a rewarding and even spiritual feel to it.
Preparation
Washbag
A quality washbag provides room for all my wet shaving necessities, while maintaining one of the most important factors in camping… keeping things minimal. My favorite is The Bluebeards Revenge washbag as it was made with shavers in mind and is also extremely durable. It contains a special room for items like my shaving brush (which helps keep it undamaged), shaving cream, razor, and plenty of room for other items to put inside its zipped compartments, as well as a hanging hook and a detachable mirror.
Items I Put In The Washbag (Shaving Related):
- Merkur 42 Nickel “904 Replica”Double Edge Razor
- Edwin Jagger Best Badger Brush
- Truefitt & Hill Authentic Ultimate Comfort Shaving Cream Bowl
- Washcloth
- Styptic Pencils (in the case of cuts and nicks).
- Mirror (comes with the washbag)
Why I Chose An Unscented Shaving Cream
Since you’re in the outdoors, it is most recommended that you go with an unscented shaving cream, as the ones with fragrance could attract annoying bugs, not to mention bears or other wildlife. Additionally, unscented shaving creams are much more forgiving on sensitive skin, and prevent annoying burns and bumps, which trust me, you do not want to experience during your time outdoors. I chose to go with Truefitt & Hill Authentic Ultimate Comfort Shaving Bowl because not only is it fragrant free, it has enough moisturizing capabilities to enable me to skip the use of an after shave, while providing excellent skin protection.
Shaving Outdoors, How It’s Done:
1. Begin the process by warming water using a water boiling pot over the campfire, or even a grill.
2. Take a washcloth and dampen it in the warm water, then simply let it rest on my face for about 1-2 minutes (be careful not to let the water get too hot)
3. Start lathering using your choice of shaving bowl or mug. I actually love using the same pot I used for warming water, as it tends to provide a uniquely effective lather.
4. With a mirror in one hand, you can begin to lather up your face with your favorite shaving brush. Take this time to get used to using the handheld mirror before moving on to the next stage. I personally prefer to hang the washbag with the mirror on a branch in front of me, as it allows me to have the other hand free to use various skin stretching techniques for a better shave.
Tip: If for some reason you forgot to bring a mirror, you can always use a vehicle’s side mirror as a last resort.
5. Apply your favorite razor using the same techniques you would at home.
6. Rinse off your face using cold water in order to close your pores, then rinse off your razor and clean your brush before putting it all back.
That’s all there is to it! Remember, none of this is set in stone. Feel free to alter things in order to address your own shaving needs.
Do you shave outdoors?, if so, how do you go about it? Leave a comment below
Ask Aaron Q/A: Upgrading my shaving kit, what should I invest in?
Chris Walker, from Hungry, asks:
“Hi there, I was wondering what next to invest in to upgrade my shaving kit? I currently own 2 DE razors (A Merkur 11c and a Muhle 89R) and these are great but I have a very cheap drugstore brush and cream. Which would you recommend buying first? A quality shaving brush or quality shaving cream to upgrade?
Many Thanks, C.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Walker,
I would recommend upgrading to a better cream next. Using a better cream will much improve your shave and you can still use the inexpensive brush for quite some time and still get good results. I would suggest you try Bluebeard’s Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Edwin Jagger, Truefitt & Hill and many others you will find here. Good luck and enjoy the new cream!
Cheers,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Shaving Shack now stocking Edwin Jagger range of luxury shaving products
The Shaving Shack is delighted to announce that we are now stocking the Edwin Jagger range of luxury shaving and men’s grooming products.
Internationally renowned for exquisite workmanship, Edwin Jagger shaving products are used by discerning wet shavers the world over.
And we have a great range of Edwin Jagger safety razors, Mach3 razors, shaving creams, shaving brushes and shaving sets to choose from.
If you’re a fan of double edge shaving then why not treat yourself to the Edwin Jagger Double Edge Razor DE86 (£21.99) or the Edwin Jagger Double Edge Razor (Bulbous Lined) (£82.99).
Prefer a Mach3 razor? Well you’re in luck as we are also stocking the very stylish Edwin Jagger Mach 3 Razor in Ebony (£27.99) and the beautifully presented Edwin Jagger Mach 3 Razor in Imitation Ivory (£27.99).
Treat your bathroom to the elegance of the Chatsworth range!
The Chatsworth range is understandably a best seller within the premium Edwin Jagger collection.
This imitation ivory brush, filled with hand tied Super Badger grade hair, is an ideal accompaniment to the matching imitation ivory razor. Manufactured in Sheffield from carefully selected, finest quality polyester material.
Another highlight from the Edwin Jagger Chatsworth range is this all-metal brush, filled with hand tied Super Badger grade hair, an ideal accompaniment to the matching all metal razor. Manufactured in Sheffield, this brush is precision engraved with a Barley pattern finished in high quality chrome plate.
You can browse our complete Edwin Jagger range by clicking here.
Ask Aaron Q/A: How do I prevent bleeding on the lower neck?
Derrick Rutherford, from the UK, asks:
“I have just started DE shaving, using a Edwin Jagger DE razor with Derby blades, Proraso pre and post shave on all three passes as well as plenty water, Proraso shave cream, alum block and then Prorasso pre and post shave again and then Proraso after shave balm. I do two passes down with gravity and then one across ,the problem is I still get bleeding on the lower neck and red blotches as well. I only shave every two days because of this, but, I absolutely LOVE it and will not go back to Gillette cartridges, but, I want to shave daily as it is a real pleasure. I dont put too much pressure on the razor, I let the weight of it do the work, Please help, A convert.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Rutherford,
It’s hard to say exactly what might be going on but let’s see about a few things. Do make sure that your razor angle is good, especially on the neck. The proper angle, which depend on the razor, should be somewhere around 30 degrees. Keeping the angle is hard on the neck area so try locking your wrist and you shave and let your arm do the work. Another thing to check would be the blade. Derby blade work for many men but the might not be your best match. Do try several other blades seeing which best match your skin and hair type. The best way to this is to buy a blade sampler and work your way through the differing blades. Another thing I would check would be the direction of hair growth. Make sure you’re shaving with, then across, then against the direction or grain. If you follow those steps I think you’ll find much easier shaving and less irritation.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Why is my shaving brush shedding hair?!!
Relax. Shaving brushes can go through phases of shedding hair, especially at the beginning when the brush is settling. A new brush can typically expect to shed hairs for the first three months of its life as it sheds any loose hairs not removed in the manufacturing process. This can happen regardless of whether the brush is premium or not as they are held together by the same means. The problem arises if it is continuous.
If your brush is shedding hair then here are some things to check out:
- If the hairs that the brush is shedding are short hairs then this can be a result of hairs breaking rather than shedding due to the brush being used incorrectly ie. Not letting the bristles soak in warm NOT hot water to soften them before use. Soaking a brush in water that is too hot can cause the epoxy resin in the handle to expand causing the handle to crack or the hairs to shed. For this reason it is always best to try to soak the bristles and not the handle.
- If you do have a brush that is shedding it is common practice to comb thru the bristles with a fine toothed comb, this can help to remove any loose hairs.
With the above in mind we normally ask you to use a shedding brush for a few more weeks to see if it is continuous. If it is still shedding after a few weeks then get in contact with us to discuss a possible replacement. It will then go to the manufacturer for assessment and then a replacement can be arranged.
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