The ultimate guide to double edge shaving - DE shaving for beginners
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to double edge shaving
Here at Shaving Shack, our mailbox is flooded with gents often complaining, and rightly so, about the high costs of cartridges and asking advice about how to get started traditionally shaving. It is undisputable that shaving with a double edge razor is less expensive than using modern cartridges. Just a simple cost comparison shows that for the same price of a pack of 4 replacement cartridges, you can buy 50-100 double edge blades. We love hearing from you our loyal customers and would like to offer you some practical points on how to get started!
The first place to start would be the equipment: razor, blades, brush, soap/cream, and aftershave. It seems like a lot, but once you get these main purchases down they will last you for many years, decades, or life. As with many purchases start with what you can afford, and as you get used to traditional shaving explore and find which items suit your needs best.
Double Edge Safety Razors
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Your razor should be one with good reviews and from a reputable company such as Merkur, Muhle, Edwin Jagger, or The Bluebeards Revenge. I personally recommend The Bluebeards Scimitar, Merkur 34C, and Edwin Jagger DE89 as great beginner razors.
Shaving Soaps & Creams
The Bluebeards Revenge is one of the best shaving creams on the market
Soaps and creams can be found in a huge variety of scents and flavours. If you know your water type, creams tend to work better in hard water and soaps better in soft water. However, this is not a hard and fast rule, and good technique can overcome most water quality issues. Many of the most popular companies to produce soaps and creams are Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Cyril Salter, Mitchell’s Wool Fat, and Proraso amoung many others.
Double Edge Razor Blades
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience, but it is best to start with a good standard blade and as your technique improves, then find a blade that more suits your face. Some of the most popular blades are Derby, Feather, Personna, Shark, and Wilkinson-Sword.
Shaving Brushes
A shaving brush can improve the overall quality of a shave
An overwhelming variety of choices can be found for the shaving brush, with the hair type being the most obvious. Choices of boar bristle, badger hair, and a variety of synthetics are available on the market. If your convictions lead you to stay away from animal products, you are in luck as many advancements in recent years have led to great strides in synthetic fibers being able to function as natural hair. The Men-U brushes have received rave reviews in their ability to hold water and produce good lather. The Bluebeards Vanguard brush should also be a good bet to try as well. For a natural hair brush, boar bristle brushes tend to be less expensive, but perform well. The Semogue 830 and 1305 are quite popular, as is the Vulfix Grosvenor, and the Bluebeards Revenge Dubloon. The badger hair brush has been used for many many years, and is the most desirable. It has a superior water retaining quality, softness on the face, and a superior lathering ability. There are many to choose from and a few recommended would be the Bluebeard Privateer, the Kent BK4, Simpsons Duke, with Plisson being the cream of the crop. As mentioned above buy the best you can afford, the quality will reward you with a better feel, and longevity.
The Perfect Shaving Routine
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be a pleasure and not a chore
To perform the shave, first shower or hold a hot wet towel to the face; this softens the outer layer of hair allowing for an easier cut. Prepare the brush by soaking it in water, then gently shaking the majority of the water out. Gently press the tips of the brush into the cream or soap gathering enough material to shave with. Lather your soap in a bowl or on your face using a whipping motion and adding water as needed to create a thick lather that resembles whipped cream or meringue. Holding your razor against the face an an approximate 30 degree angle, shave with as little pressure as possible in the direction of hair growth. Remember to use short strokes and rinse the razor often. After you have completed the first pass, re-lather and shave across the direction of hair growth, then rinse the lather from your face. After rinsing apply your choice of aftershave, whether a balm or alcohol based splash.
Shaving Tips
A few tips as you improve your technique: keep your wrist locked and use a whole arm motion, a pre-shave oil will help those gents with tougher beards to retain moisture and provide glide, leaving 2-3 days between shaves gives the skin rest and leaves longer hair to shave. With these general gear guides and tips we hope you will have the information to choice your equipment well and have a fabulous shave!
If you have any questions for Aaron please submit them here.
Ultimate shaving guides
> Safety razor buying guide – How to choose the right DE safety razor
> Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
> How to care for a shaving brush – Top tips for maintaining your shaving brush
> An easy step-by-step method for getting the best lather out of shaving cream
The great cartridge razor rip off - Change your shaving habits now & save a fortune
In January 2011, I blogged about why a double edge razor is technically better than a cartridge based razor system. Now there is yet another reason for men to ditch the horrid multi-bladed cartridge razor in favour of the single bladed razor.
According to an article on the Daily Mail website, the price of razor blade ‘cartridges’ has jumped by as much as 99% over the last three years.
“Replacement cartridges for Gillette’s Fusion ProGlide can be as much as £3.49 each,” the newspaper said.
It went on to say that blades for Gillette’s top-of-the-range Fusion ProGlide cost less than 10p to manufacturer, which in my book is a fairly decent profit margin.
The paper also blames Gillette, the world’s largest shaving company by quite a distance, for imposing a stealth price rise by cutting the number of replacement cartridges in its Mach3 Turbo packs from five to four.
“The smaller pack did not bring a corresponding cut in the price, leaving men paying at least 20 per cent more,” the article says.
It went on to blame the increasing cost of cartridge blades for men’s poor shaving habits.
“At the same time, men worried about making ends meet are either trying to make their razor blades last longer, with the resulting scrapes and cuts – or ditching their shaving regime and opting for designer stubble.”
A better quality shave with a long term saving
This all makes me rather angry as there is an easy solution – change your shaving habits and ditch the overpriced cartridge razor. Opt instead for a double edge safety razor and if you’re feeling really adventurous, a straight or cut throat razor (as its more commonly referred to).
Not only will both types of razor give you a better quality of shave, they are also much cheaper in the long run, as a number of the comments on the Daily Mail article point out.
“I switched from cartridge razors to a straight razor and have never looked back. True your initial investment is a little higher but the payback on these cartridge blades is 6 months or so. Have not had to buy a single razor blade in 18 months now,” commented Derrick Young, Wasaga Beach, Ontario.
Roy, from York, also pointed out the massive cost savings men could experience from switching to a DE razor: “I have used an old fashioned Double Edge safety razor for years and blades for that can cost as little as 10p. As they are cheap you can afford to change them regularly and get a good shave. With multi bladed cartridges because of the price people carry on using them when they are going blunt. With DE razors, OK the razor is more expensive but it lasts for many years, but one sharp blade every couple of shaves is better than a dull multi blade being stretched out over a week. People have had good shaves with single blades for centuries. Multi blades are a marketing gimmick.”
Roy’s last sentence is a very accurate one, “Multi blades are a marketing gimmick”. Let’s face it Gillette are excellent at marketing their products, they have pretty much convinced men that 3 blades are better than 1 and 5 blades are better than 3. They also spend millions of pounds on celebrity endorsements, with sports stars like Roger Federer, Tiger Woods, and Thierry Henry (who now wears a beard) fronting lavish TV and newspaper campaigns.
It was Gillete who first worked out that men would indeed fork out for overpriced cartridges as long as the initial cost, i.e. the handle, was affordable. It’s pretty much the same business model adopted by ink jet printer companies. Sell a cheap printer, then sell really expensive “cartridges” that run out quickly. It’s simple, but very effective.
Dollar Shave Club
It will be interesting to see how successful the much-hyped Dollar Shave Club will turn out to be. Dollar Shave Club’s business model is similar to LoveFilm, which sends subscribers movies in the post for a small monthly fee. Dollar Shave Club will send customers a monthly supply of disposable razor blades starting at $1 a month (however, when you add in delivery costs it’s more like the 4-Dollar Shave Club). A catchy brand name and I must say a pretty cool launch commercial, which has picked up nearly 5 million views on YouTube. And according to widespread media reports, more than 12,000 people have signed up for the service.
There is no question that the Dollar Shave Club YouTube video is hilarious. But aside from the online hype, can the Dollar Shave Club compete against the likes of Gillette in the long term? I’m guessing not…
Looking ahead, I really hope men will start to see through all this cleaver marketing and take a stand against the rising cost of cartridges. For those switching to the affordable yet luxurious world of double edged shaving, all I can do is welcome you to the real men’s club. And I will finish this article by saying; shaving should be regarded as a pleasure, not a chore.
Happy shaving.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Do double-edged safety razors provide a superior shaving experience?
Aaron answers a question about whether a DE safety razor offers a better shave than a cartridge razor
Benny Saelens, from Belgium, asks:
“Dear Aaron, I have been shaving for many years using a Gillette Mach 3 and for the last year on a regular basis with the Fusion. I would like to have a better shave but also a safe one. Would you advise me to swap a cartridge type razor to a DE safety razor, and if yes, which one? I have rather sensitive skin. Many thanks in advance for your appreciated advise, Benny.”
AARON SAYS
“Benny,
With a little attention and technique the DE razor is just as safe as the modern cartridge razor such as the Mach 3 and Fusion you mention. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Edwin Jagger DE86 or DE89, Parker 94R, or the Bluebeard’s Revenge Scimitar. These all are recommended for beginning shavers due to their mild blade exposure, which would be ideal for your sensitive skin. I think you will find the shave with a DE very rewarding and enjoyable.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Switching to a double edge safety razor
Aaron is asked to recommend a double edge razor for someone who suffers from thick hair growth
James Walthall, from UK, asks:
“I want to migrate away from a Mach 3 to a DE razor but I’m unsure as to what brand to choose and whether to go for an open comb or closed comb razor. I have thick hair growth and suffer with irritation at the collar line on a daily basis. I use a silver tip Edwin Jagger brush with Edwin Jagger aloe vera shave soap. Any advice regarding the type of razor to choose and how to avoid the collar line irritation would be most welcome. Many thanks, James.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Walthall,
I’m glad to hear you want to make the switch over to a safety razor! Since you are already using other Edwin Jagger products the DE89, DE86, or DE87 are all good razors to look at. The Merkur 34C and the Bluebeards Scimitar are also worthy razors for consideration.
As for the irritation around your collar there are several things your can try: shave only with the grain and across the grain in that area; use a good moisturizing balm as an aftershave not an alcohol based splash; make sure you are wearing the proper collar size and not one that is too tight; and use a light exfoliating scrub to help reveal and open the ingrown hairs.
Also, if you can try not shaving for a few days to help your skin heal and the ingrown hairs time to find their way to the surface. These tips should help you find some relief, and a good starting De to shave with!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Switching from a cartridge razor to a safety razor
Aaron answers a question about switching from a cartridge razor to a double edge razor
Shaun Lancaster, from UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron! Its about time I switched from a cartridge razor, and started shaving properly, and stopped throwing away cash! What would you recommend for a ‘newbie’ with a steady hand? Maybe something solid, but not breaking the bank? I do have some minimal scar tissue under my chin, so I’m slightly wary of catching it with a DE razor. Is there a starter pack c/w shave stick or some soap you would recommend? Many thanks. Shaun.”
AARON SAYS
“Hello Shaun!
We’re very happy to hear you want to join the ranks of wet-shavers around the globe! There are many great products out there to choose from, but for a beginners set I do have a couple of recommendations. The first is the Bluebeard’s Revenge cream & Doubloon brush set. This set gives you a great starter brush and cream to shave with, and allows you to choose your razor. If you’d rather get the whole kit in one shot and not worry about choosing a razor, I would recommend the Bluebeard’s Revenge Gift set, which include their Scimitar razor. This would provide all the basics you need to get you started on your journey. Whatever you decide, enjoy and welcome to smooth shaving!
Cheers,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Products to fight razor rash & burn & shaving spots
David Mahood, from UK, asks:
“I have just found this site. I am a professional person and need to shave once, maybe twice each day. I currently use Mach3 blades and sensitive shaving foam or gel. My problem is that I suffer really bad redness around the mouth and chin which quite often results in spots after close shaves. Can you recommend any products that will help or relieve my symptoms?”
Aaron suggests using a single bladed razor like the Merkur 37C Slant Bar DE Safety Razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Mahood,
Welcome to our site! Glad that you have been able to find us. As one who also works in a professional environment, I understand your dilemma. The first thing I would recommend is using a good post-shave balm. The ingredients in the balm will help to moisturize and heal your skin after shaving, and reduce the redness and burn.
Secondly you ought to try a pre-shave oil under your shave cream. The oil adds an extra protective layer that increases slickness and moisture to your shave.
If you are willing to go even farther down the rabbit hole I would suggest that you reduce the number of blades you shave with, and consider using a single blade safety razor such as many of the Merkur, Edwin Jagger, Parker, and Bluebeard’s razors we have here on the site. Along with this I would use a good quality cream and brush. These products are meant to give a comfortable and close shave without the irritation that occur by using the canned cream and gel products.
For creams I would recommends any Taylor of Old Bond Street, The Bluebeard’s Revenge, Proraso, Cyril Salter and many others here on the site. If you would like any more assistance or help in taking the plunge with traditional wet-shaving please feel free to contact us here and we’ll be glad to help! Thanks for your question!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Advice for a double edge shaving novice
Clive Badger, from the UK, asks:
“Hello, I’m wanting to get into using safety razors as I have an issue with razor burn and ingrown hairs on my neck. I’m curious as to what razor is good to start with? I’ve been looking at the Merkur Futur. Any advice or recommended products for start to finish would be excellent.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Badger,
We are glad to hear you’re ready to take the plunge into traditional shaving! There are truly a plethora of products for you to chose from. The Futur is a wonderful razor and a great shaver. If you like it, I do highly recommend it! As for creams any cream by Bluebeard’s, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Cyril Salter, Proraso or D.R. Harris will be well worth investing in. I also recommend using a good face wash or scrub to prepare your face and beard. To finish your shave use any number of the aftershaves, especially aftershave balms, listed here on the site. Again, welcome, and enjoy!
Best of Shaves!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: DE Razors – Heavy or Light, Which is best?
Steven Cox, from the UK, asks:
“Having never used a double edge safety razor before I do not know whether to use a light or heavy razor. Are there any general guidelines I could follow to help me make my choice?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Cox,
Whether you have a light or heavy razor is truly a matter of personal preference. I generally recommend heavier razors for new shaver because it allows them to easier feel the razor and let the razor to the work cutting the hair. All that to say that I would recommend a heavier razor to begin your journey! Thanks for the question!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q&A: Finding the best double edge shaving products - Is it a case of trial and error?
Charles Singleton, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, it seems to me that double edge shaving is not as clear cut as shaving with my Mach 3! Now I have a wide choice different blades, razors, creams and brushes. Looking at reviews on websites and forums I get confused as to what to choose because when I find something that has a positive review I usually find an equally negative one! Is it just a case of trial and error as I can see this getting expensive?!”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Singleton,
Yes! I agree the many choices and options can be a bit overwhelming. If I can let me offer some products and advice to help get you on your way.
To start with get a good brush such as a Simpsons, Vulfix, Kent or Bluebeards Revenge. This paired with a good cream such as Bluebeards Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Proraso, Geo. F. Trumper’s and Truefitt & Hill will increase the quality of your shave a lot, even if you decide to keep going with your Mach 3. Should you take the plunge and go with a safety razor the Blue Beard’s Scimitar, Merkur HD, and the Parker 98 or 99R razors will be great ways to start. The most subjective part of wet shaving is the blade. For blades I really suggest you start by buying a single pack of each brand and figure out which rand works best for your face and hair types. Gillette, Merkur, Derby and Israeli made blades are great to start with. I highly suggest waiting on the Feather blades until you gain more experience. They tend to be *cough* VERY unforgiving of student mistakes.
These suggestions should narrow down the choices for you and I hope you enjoy your journey into wet shaving!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q&A: How long or how many shaves will I get with a double edge razor blade?
“How long or how many shaves will I get with a double edge razor blade?” asks John Francisco, from the US.
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Fancisco, Well, this is may not be the answer you were looking for, but we’ll give it a shot! The general consensus is that you should be able to get three to five days per blade (or cartridge head for that matter). However, this depends greatly upon your home environment and how much humidity is in the air, how coarse or fine your hair is, the type of coating on the blade, and many more other factors. There are also many products out on the market that claim to extend blade life, most do NOT live up to the hype, but a few do actually work. All this to say I really can’t tell you exactly how long your double edge blade will last but 3-5 days is the average for most people. Smooth shaving! Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
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