The Sun newspaper puts double edge shaving firmly on the shave map
As you will probably be aware of the UK men’s shaving market is dominated by three big players -Gillete (owned by US giant Proctor and Gamble) and British brands Wilkinson Sword and King of Shaves (the brainchild of likeable entrepreneur Will King).
All three of these companies specialise in providing men with easy to use multi bladed cartridge razor systems, and in Gillette’s case, these products are backed and promoted with billionaire dollar marketing campaigns.
Thankfully there is still a market for traditional double edge safety razors, and its growing as more men get fed up with the increasing cost of cartridge razor blades. A recent study has found the annual cost of shaving with a Gillette Power Fusion, new cartridges and all, is an eye-watering £85.37.
But getting the message to the masses that double edge shaving is not only cheaper in the long run, but also much better for the skin, is a difficult one as the mainstream press favour the Gillette Power Fusion over the Merkur 34C and the Hydro 5 over the Edwin Jagger DE89.
Well that was until we contacted The Sun Newspaper journalist David Firth, who runs the highly popular Tried and Test section on The Sun website. David had previously tested out wet razors from the “big three” brands to see which was the best.
To our delight and slight surprise, he agreed to test three of our top selling safety razors - the Merkur 38c Barberpole, Parker 94R and The Bluebeards Revenge ‘Scimitar’ (which has graced the likes of the Daily Mail, Loaded and GQ).
So what did David think to the razors we sent him?
Merkur 38c
“My favourite of the three,” he said. David praised its balance, control and grip. “The diagonal thread design on the pole helps you keep a solid grip and I also like that you change the blade by simply unscrewing the base, rather than having to disassemble the whole thing. A great piece of kit,” he added. Price: £39.99. Buy here.
Parker 94R:
“The big plus-point with the Parker is the grip - thick, diamond-shaped ridges help keep this lodged in your hand no matter how much cream or water is knocking about,” explained David. He added that he liked the light weight of the razor; but found the short pole a little fiddly during the shave. Price £19.99. Buy here.
The Bluebeards Revenge ‘Scimitar’
David loved the look of the Scimitar. “It does look lovely, particularly with the laser-etched Bluebeards Revenge skull and cross bones logo on the razor head. As with the other two - it does give a great shave,” he said. Price £34.99. Buy here.
The Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” Double Edge Razor
Overall, David loved the theatre of double edge shaving. “You splash your face with warm water, apply a pre-shave cream to help the blade glide, then apply the shaving cream all frothed up with an old-school brush to exfoliate a bit and lift up your bristles. And then you can shave. It takes time but it’s a lot of fun,” he explained.
In conclusion, David said: “If you follow all the appropriate hints and tips on how to use double-edged blade razors properly - you can find loads of videos on YouTube - you will get the best shave of your life.”
Thanks for taking the double edge shaving test David, and for helping to bring such as a cool method shaving back in to the media spotlight. You can follow David on Twitter at @davefirth.
Read his full review by clicking here.
What do you think think to David’s comments? Let us know by commenting below.
Double edge (DE) safety razor aggressiveness explained
We often get questions from customers about the aggressiveness of double edge safety razors and which ones are best suited for their particular hair/beard type.
With that in mind, I thought I would put together a brief guide about what makes a razor mild, medium or aggressive and what type and skill level of wet shaver it’s been designed for.
According to the popular Badger and Blade shaving forum, the aggressiveness of a razor is based on 5 key factors. These are:
• Blade gap
• Blade angle in the razor
• Razor weight
• Distribution of the weight. (Heavy head/light handle vs. all heavy.)
• Blade angle applied by the user (this can influence the shave drastically if not done properly).
Blade gap and angle:
The larger the blade gap, the more of the blade is exposed to the skin, hence the greater risk of nicks and cuts for an inexperienced DE shaver. On the flip side, experienced DE shavers generally prefer a larger blade gap because it allows for greater control over the angle of the blade as it makes contact to the skin.
Razor weight and distribution of weight:
The heavier the razor, the more aggressive it is generally perceived to be. Weight balance (such as whether a razor is more head-heavy or handle-heavy) also plays a role, with razors balanced more toward the head often considered milder shavers than their handle-heavy counterparts.
According to many wet shaving experts like the guys on Badger and Blade or top shaving blogs such as Shaving101 and Sharpologist, the user shouldn’t just follow a quest to find the mildest or most aggressive razor, but instead they should find the right level of aggressiveness for their particular type of skin.
Mild Safety Razors
A mild safety razor has a cutting head that is designed to limit the amount of force that is transferred to the blade’s edge. Because these types of razors are less likely to cause irritation or nicks during a shave, they are perfect for men with very sensitive skin or men with lighter/weaker beard growth.
Good examples of mild safety razors include the Feather All Stainless and Goodfella. You could also try an adjustable safety razor, such as the Merkur Futur 761 or Merkur 570 Progress, on the lowest blade exposure settings.
Medium Safety Razors
Medium aggressive safety razors, as the name suggests, have an average blade gap and expose a reasonable amount of blade edge. Providing a good balance between mild and aggressive, these types of razors allow the blade to cut efficiently without causing excessive irritation or increased probability of cuts and nicks.
Good examples of medium safety razors include the legendary Merkur 34C, Edwin Jagger DE89L and the shiny Bluebeards Revenge ‘Scimitar’. But in truth, most of the safety razors manufactured today would be considered medium as they provide the best of both worlds and can be targeted at both the experienced and inexperienced DE shaver.
Aggressive Safety Razors
Aggressive safety razors have a larger gap and greater blade exposure, allowing more hair to enter between the razor’s edge and the safety bar. This means it will cut through the beard much quicker and with fewer strokes. Aggressive safety razors are harsher on the skin and are usually favoured by men with very thick beard growth who struggle to get a close shave without having to do multiple passes.
The Merkur 37C Slant Bar is a serious bit of kit designed for the more experienced DE shaver for an extremely close shave. Another aggressive razor is the Merkur 39C Slant Bar, which is the long handled version of the 37C. The slanted head exposes more of the blade at one end and is very similar to the cutting angle of a straight (cut-throat) razor. It is also highly regarded as one of the best DE razors for sensitive skin sufferers because of the way it shaves.
Open comb razors like the Merkur 25C and Muhle R41 tend to be more aggressive and can give an easier shave for those who suffer from tough beards. The teeth help to guide and position the beard hair so that the blade can cut them more effectively without clogging the razor.
You could also try an adjustable safety razor, such as the Merkur Futur or Merkur Progress, on the highest blade exposure settings.
For more detailed information on safety razor aggressiveness please visit the following websites:
Shaving101
Badger and Blade
Ask Aaron Q/A: Do double-edged safety razors provide a superior shaving experience?
Aaron answers a question about whether a DE safety razor offers a better shave than a cartridge razor
Benny Saelens, from Belgium, asks:
“Dear Aaron, I have been shaving for many years using a Gillette Mach 3 and for the last year on a regular basis with the Fusion. I would like to have a better shave but also a safe one. Would you advise me to swap a cartridge type razor to a DE safety razor, and if yes, which one? I have rather sensitive skin. Many thanks in advance for your appreciated advise, Benny.”
AARON SAYS
“Benny,
With a little attention and technique the DE razor is just as safe as the modern cartridge razor such as the Mach 3 and Fusion you mention. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Edwin Jagger DE86 or DE89, Parker 94R, or the Bluebeard’s Revenge Scimitar. These all are recommended for beginning shavers due to their mild blade exposure, which would be ideal for your sensitive skin. I think you will find the shave with a DE very rewarding and enjoyable.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: A good alternative to the Merkur 34C
Mark Southern, from UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron. Hope you are well. I really want to purchase the Merkur 34c safety razor, but every online shop I visit seems to be out of stock. Can you please recommend me an alternative razor, something which is similar in terms of weight, feel, look, aggressiveness and price.
Thanks Mark.”
Edwin Jagger Double Edge Razor DE89L
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Southern,
With the growth of popularity of wet-shaving I’m not surprised to hear there is a shortage of the Merkur 34c! It’s a great razor, but with it being out of stock there are some good alternatives out there too. The Edwin Jagger DE89 series is a great competitor, and very similar is head shape, aggressiveness and price. Other good alternative razors are the Muhle R89, the Merkur 38c (the long handled cousin to the 34c), Bluebeard’s Revenge “Scimitar”, and the color handled Merkur “barber-pole” razors. These should all serve you very well and give you the same shave as the Merkur 34c. A great question, thank you!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Cartridge Razors vs Safety Razors – Which are better?
Mark Howard, from the UK, asks:
“I’m so tired of the high prices of cassette type blades to the poing that I’m overusing blunt blades! I want to move to double edge razor but is this a backwards step in terms of shaving and blade technology? If double edge razors are so good, how come people moved to the cassette type? I want to believe!!!!”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Howard, Your have a good question! Thanks for asking! In short, yes it is a step back, but technological advances do not always make things better! The first patents for “safety razors” came out in the late 1800′s. What we recognize today as a safety razor today became patented in 1907 (if I recall correctly).
That makes this technology over 100 years old! Cartridge or cassette type blades have only been in production for the past 40 years, since the 60′s. The problem with Cassette blades is that they were designed to give a large average percentage of men a good shave. Note, not a great shave. The blades rest above the skin, so they rely on the process of historesis to give a smooth shave, unfortunately this cause more problems than it solves! Razor burn (from too much pressure and not enough lubrication), razor bumps and ingrown hairs. Plus lots of pulling and tugging (which it is designed to do!).
Safety razors have a blade that rides right next to or on the surface of the skin, providing a smooth clean shave. It does take some technique to learn, but it time you will have no nicks, cuts, or razor burn. All this to say, it might be a step back technologically, but switching to a safety razor will provide you a much closer and better shave.
If you have any questions about how to start, or what products to use, please read through the blog, or contact me again for more information! I’d be more than happy to help.
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: DE Razors – Heavy or Light, Which is best?
Steven Cox, from the UK, asks:
“Having never used a double edge safety razor before I do not know whether to use a light or heavy razor. Are there any general guidelines I could follow to help me make my choice?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Cox,
Whether you have a light or heavy razor is truly a matter of personal preference. I generally recommend heavier razors for new shaver because it allows them to easier feel the razor and let the razor to the work cutting the hair. All that to say that I would recommend a heavier razor to begin your journey! Thanks for the question!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q&A: Safety Razors - Closed Comb vs Open Comb
Sean Chawla-Duggan, from the UK, asks:
“Aaron, I have a very tough thick beard hair, and while when I do have the luxury of time I get a very good shave with a straight razor, I’d like to have a safety razor for mid week quickies. Should I use open or closed comb?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Chawla-Duggan,
Thank you for writing in! There is much debate surrounding the safety bar vs. open comb with strong opinions on both sides. Open comb razors do tend to be more aggressive and can give an easier shave for those of us with tougher beards. The shave also heavily depends on how sharp your blade is. If you like the look and feel of an open comb, go for it! There is a great open comb version of the Merkur HD which I highly recommend as well as the Muhle open comb.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q&A: Finding the best double edge shaving products - Is it a case of trial and error?
Charles Singleton, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, it seems to me that double edge shaving is not as clear cut as shaving with my Mach 3! Now I have a wide choice different blades, razors, creams and brushes. Looking at reviews on websites and forums I get confused as to what to choose because when I find something that has a positive review I usually find an equally negative one! Is it just a case of trial and error as I can see this getting expensive?!”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Singleton,
Yes! I agree the many choices and options can be a bit overwhelming. If I can let me offer some products and advice to help get you on your way.
To start with get a good brush such as a Simpsons, Vulfix, Kent or Bluebeards Revenge. This paired with a good cream such as Bluebeards Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Proraso, Geo. F. Trumper’s and Truefitt & Hill will increase the quality of your shave a lot, even if you decide to keep going with your Mach 3. Should you take the plunge and go with a safety razor the Blue Beard’s Scimitar, Merkur HD, and the Parker 98 or 99R razors will be great ways to start. The most subjective part of wet shaving is the blade. For blades I really suggest you start by buying a single pack of each brand and figure out which rand works best for your face and hair types. Gillette, Merkur, Derby and Israeli made blades are great to start with. I highly suggest waiting on the Feather blades until you gain more experience. They tend to be *cough* VERY unforgiving of student mistakes.
These suggestions should narrow down the choices for you and I hope you enjoy your journey into wet shaving!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q&A: I keep cutting myself, am I using the right double edge razor blade?
“I bought a Parker 82R Super HeavyWeight Butterfly Open Safety Razor along with Feather Hi-Stainless Double Edged Razor Blades and to be completely honest have stopped using it after about 6 or more shaves due to the amount of cuts under neck and at corner of mouth. Am I using the correct blade? Why is this happening (I was so disappointed I now use a 150.00 Braun series 9 electric but would love to have carried on using a proper razor, and have always been a wet shaver since 16 so 24 yrs now,” asks Paul Ewing, from the UK.
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Ewing,
Thanks for your question! If you are relatively new to wet shaving I suspect the Feather blades are the culprit. The Parker is a good razor, but the Feathers are extremely sharp and have the reputation of being called “ninjas” on wetshaving forums because of their sharpness. They are great blades but can very unforgiving especially to the beginner. I suggest finding some other blades such as Derbys, Gillettes, or Israelis to use for now. Once you have more experience under your belt revisit the Feathers, they might become your favorite blade!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Bluebeards Revenge Post-Shave Balm & Scimitar Razor Reviews
My New Year started off beautifully. I woke up suddenly around 9am, entangled with my loved one, and had the startling and somewhat shocking revelation that I was completely hangover-free. I hopped out of bed, had a cup of coffee and some toast, and set about deciding what my first shave of 2011 should look like.
Nick from The Shaving Shack had recently sent me a box containing the Bluebeards Revenge Scimitar double-edged razor and a tub of the Bluebeards Revenge post-shave balm. This, then, was the way to go. I knew a review needed to be written, a beard needed to be shaved, and… Well, it was time to get moving.
My initial impression of the razor was that it was similar in nature to most other higher-end modern razors (see Merkur as a fine example). It displays the Jolly Rodger skull-and-crossbones proudly on the top piece, echoing the “Bluebeard” pirate theme that runs throughout their product line. The fit and finish were absolutely perfect, and the heft and balance of the razor definitely felt great. Perhaps my only complaint - out of the box - was that the grip was a touch slick.
After a hot shower, I popped a fresh Japanese Feather blade in, lathered up with Truefitt & Hill’s Lavender cream (which has quickly become my standard go-to luxury shave cream) and set to work. The razor was just slightly more aggressive in feel than my trusty vintage Gillette Superspeed. I’d put it close to setting 4 or 5 on the Gillette Fatboy adjustable, though very smooth and forgiving at the same time. It made short work of my beard and left me feeling quite happy with the results in 3 standard passes.
I finished up with a thorough rinse and a shot of witch hazel, and then opened up the tub of balm. The consistency was quite thick, so I popped a finger in, grabbed a dollop, and rubbed it in quickly. The first thing I noticed about the balm was that it burned as though it was an aftershave splash, which of course screams “alcohol!” to me. I’m not normally a huge fan of alcohol in my balms - if I want it, I’ll use a splash. In this case, however, it works. I was a little surprised, to be honest, just how WELL it worked. The balm absorbed into the skin, leaving it feeling fresh and moisturized without even a hint of oil or shine. The scent of the balm was pleasant as well, a nice classic barbershop style, though it lingers much too long for my taste.
The Bluebeards Revenge offers a complete shaving range - Image by Shaving101.com
I continued to use the two items every day until this morning, and the only change in my technique has been a switch to Art of Shaving’s excellent lemon shave cream. The razor has completely knocked every other double-edge out of rotation. My Superspeed, Fat Boy, the uber-1970′s Krona, even my Merkur slant - they’re all sitting unused in my medicine cabinet. I’ve not touched the other shave balms I’ve accumulated over the last few years at all lately, and even with daily use for over a month I’m still not even 1/4 of my way through the tub of aftershave balm.
My only suggestion for a change is that Bluebeard should release a completely unscented version of the shave balm. Otherwise, I’m extremely impressed with both products and would heavily recommend them to anyone entering the wetshaving world.
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