How to shave properly with a double edge safety razor - Simple shaving techniques & tips
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be an enjoyable experience
So often the questions that come to us here at The Shaving Shack are from gents, and sometimes ladies, new to the wet shaving experience. They ask for information regarding a more luxurious way to take care of themselves, information on how to start wet shaving, however most often the questions revolve around improving their current shaving regimen. Bits and pieces of information have been shared in our Question and Answer section but we thought a more comprehensive review of technique was in order.
Grain direction
First we address the topic of shaving “with the grain”. Shaving “with the grain” means following the direction of hair growth with your razor. For instance, if the hair on your upper lip grows straight down towards your mouth you would shave towards your mouth from your nose to shave with the grain. The importance of following the direction of hair growth lies in the ease of cutting the hair. It causes less distress to the hair, hair follicle, and skin underneath while also offering the path of least resistance. Following this technique if your skin in prone to breaking out with spots or ingrown hairs is especially helpful.
Passes
Discussion of grain direction leads us into the next technique of reducing the beard by separate “passes”. Often you will see these passes referred to as “with the grain, across the grain, and against the grain.” Following the order of passes serves to reduce the hair in steps to get as close to the surface of the skin as possible. Going with the grain we discussed above. Shaving at a 90 degree angle, or perpendicular to the direction of growth will follow a path across the grain. Shaving in the reverse direction of growth goes against the grain. Often you see debate as to whether this last step is necessary, however most folks will find that shaving against the grain will top off their shave with the smoothest finish. If you find that your skin is sensitive, or you are new to wet shaving, leaving off this last pass until you are comfortable with the technique and blade angle is advisable.
A safety razor will give you a much close shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Blade angle
Speaking of blade angle, what is a good angle to hold one’s razor? The first caveat being if you are using a disposable cartridge razor, the angle of the blades is pre-set and you need not worry about it. However to those shaving with double edge razors such as The Bluebeards Revenge Scimitar, Merkur 37c, or other fine razors this matters a great deal. Too shallow an angle and you are not taking off as much beard as you can, too much and you end up scraping skin instead of cutting hair! Neither outcome is advisable! If measured out properly the angle comes out to somewhere close to 30 degrees. However different razors can have differently shaped heads and this angle can differ. The best way we have found is to hold the razor with the handle sticking out perpendicular to your face, and as you slide the razor gently down your face I sharpen the angle so the blade edge nears the hair. When you feel the blade edge begin to catch and cut the hair you have found the correct angle.
Pressure
Hand in hand with this is pressure. No one likes pressure at work, home, and especially when a razor sharp blade is against your face. Unless perhaps you’re 007! Using as little pressure as possible no matter your choice in the style of razor is best practice. Because of the hinge on most cartridge razors more pressure will be needed than for a double edge razor, however a light hand will still go a long ways. “What kind of pressure is too much or too little?” We hear you ask? Allow the razor to just set on your face with its natural weight and letting gravity draw it in the direction of your pass is the easiest gauge.
These basic techniques will help set your shaving for smooth success!
Another small piece of technical advice that will help you on your journey is to keep you arm straight, locking your wrist, and use the movement of your whole arm to control the razor. This will help you control angle, pressure, and prevent painful gouges. (Ouch!) These basic techniques will help set your shaving for smooth success! And smooth is what we are after, right? Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more in depth looks at wet shaving technique in articles to come.
Ask Aaron Q/A: The best double edge razor blades for sensitive skin
Aaron is asked a question about the best double edge razor blades for guys with sensitive skin
Blair Valentine-Purnell, from the UK, asks:
“I recently got a double edge safety razor to help with my ingrowing hair problems and have had quite a bit of success- as long as I don’t leave it too long between shaves- but do suffer from a little bit of skin irritation afterwards. Are there any particular double edge razor blades that are better for sensitive skin?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Valentine-Purnell,
While not specifically designed for sensitive skin, there are razor blades that would be more suited for a sensitive face. Firstly, I would not recommend Feathers because they are extremely sharp and unforgiving for mistakes.
However, look for blades that have a Teflon coating, this tends to make a smoother shave. (keeping things smooth and sticky-free was what Teflon was designed for after all!). Try the Gillette, Astra, black label Israeli, and Lord super chrome blades.
If you can find them Polsilver blades are very smooth, however they are rumored to be out of production. These have all given me good success and good shaves. It will take some trial and error to find the right one for you.
Happy shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Beard shaping with a double edge razor
Aaron is asked a question about beard shaping with a double edge safety razor
Bhavin, from the UK, asks:
“I shape a beard along my jawline. Currently use a Mach 3 and a disposable razor to shape closer. Would it be easier to use a double edge razor to get the shaping? Which razor would you recommend? Is the Merkur Slant good? Also with the slant do you only need one pass due to the blade angle? I only use do one pass at the moment.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Morjaria,
A DE razor is a most excellent way to shape your beard. It’s single edge gets you right to the edge of the hair line, almost, if not just as close as a straight razor. I sport a Van Dyke and have no problem shaping it how it needs to be with a DE razor. The Merkur Slant is an excellent razor but is very aggressive and if you are not familiar shaving with a double edge can lead to nicks and cuts. Try the Merkur 34c (aka HD or heavy duty), the Bluebeard’s Revenge Scimitar, or the Edwin Jagger DE89 to begin shaving with. Welcome to DE shaving and thanks for your question!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Bluebeards Revenge nominated for two FHM grooming awards
Two products stocked by The Shaving Shack have been shortlisted for coveted FHM male grooming awards.
The Bluebeards Revenge’s beard reducing shaving cream (100ml) is up for product of the year and the brand’s “Scimitar” double edge razor has been nominated for best razor.
The Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” Double Edge Razor
Both products were selected from hundreds of entries by a group of leading men’s grooming experts, the magazine said.
FHM is a mainstream men’s lifestyle magazine and because of this generally only shortlists products that are stocked in supermarkets or Boots.
This makes the Scimitar’s achievement even more impressive, and hopefully represents a change in attitudes in the wet shaving market. Many men we talk to are fed up to the back teeth with the rising cost of cartridge razor blades and the fact they give a pretty poor shave.
The ‘Scimitar’ is up against the Gilette Fusion ProGlide, Superdrug Triple Blade Razor and Wilkinson Sword Hydro 5 Power Select razor.
You can vote for our products online at: http://www.fhm.com/site/pages/grooming/voting.aspx
Ask Aaron Q/A: Switching to a double edge safety razor
Aaron is asked to recommend a double edge razor for someone who suffers from thick hair growth
James Walthall, from UK, asks:
“I want to migrate away from a Mach 3 to a DE razor but I’m unsure as to what brand to choose and whether to go for an open comb or closed comb razor. I have thick hair growth and suffer with irritation at the collar line on a daily basis. I use a silver tip Edwin Jagger brush with Edwin Jagger aloe vera shave soap. Any advice regarding the type of razor to choose and how to avoid the collar line irritation would be most welcome. Many thanks, James.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Walthall,
I’m glad to hear you want to make the switch over to a safety razor! Since you are already using other Edwin Jagger products the DE89, DE86, or DE87 are all good razors to look at. The Merkur 34C and the Bluebeards Scimitar are also worthy razors for consideration.
As for the irritation around your collar there are several things your can try: shave only with the grain and across the grain in that area; use a good moisturizing balm as an aftershave not an alcohol based splash; make sure you are wearing the proper collar size and not one that is too tight; and use a light exfoliating scrub to help reveal and open the ingrown hairs.
Also, if you can try not shaving for a few days to help your skin heal and the ingrown hairs time to find their way to the surface. These tips should help you find some relief, and a good starting De to shave with!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Switching from a cartridge razor to a safety razor
Aaron answers a question about switching from a cartridge razor to a double edge razor
Shaun Lancaster, from UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron! Its about time I switched from a cartridge razor, and started shaving properly, and stopped throwing away cash! What would you recommend for a ‘newbie’ with a steady hand? Maybe something solid, but not breaking the bank? I do have some minimal scar tissue under my chin, so I’m slightly wary of catching it with a DE razor. Is there a starter pack c/w shave stick or some soap you would recommend? Many thanks. Shaun.”
AARON SAYS
“Hello Shaun!
We’re very happy to hear you want to join the ranks of wet-shavers around the globe! There are many great products out there to choose from, but for a beginners set I do have a couple of recommendations. The first is the Bluebeard’s Revenge cream & Doubloon brush set. This set gives you a great starter brush and cream to shave with, and allows you to choose your razor. If you’d rather get the whole kit in one shot and not worry about choosing a razor, I would recommend the Bluebeard’s Revenge Gift set, which include their Scimitar razor. This would provide all the basics you need to get you started on your journey. Whatever you decide, enjoy and welcome to smooth shaving!
Cheers,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: A good alternative to the Merkur 34C
Mark Southern, from UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron. Hope you are well. I really want to purchase the Merkur 34c safety razor, but every online shop I visit seems to be out of stock. Can you please recommend me an alternative razor, something which is similar in terms of weight, feel, look, aggressiveness and price.
Thanks Mark.”
Edwin Jagger Double Edge Razor DE89L
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Southern,
With the growth of popularity of wet-shaving I’m not surprised to hear there is a shortage of the Merkur 34c! It’s a great razor, but with it being out of stock there are some good alternatives out there too. The Edwin Jagger DE89 series is a great competitor, and very similar is head shape, aggressiveness and price. Other good alternative razors are the Muhle R89, the Merkur 38c (the long handled cousin to the 34c), Bluebeard’s Revenge “Scimitar”, and the color handled Merkur “barber-pole” razors. These should all serve you very well and give you the same shave as the Merkur 34c. A great question, thank you!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Upgrading my shaving kit, what should I invest in?
Chris Walker, from Hungry, asks:
“Hi there, I was wondering what next to invest in to upgrade my shaving kit? I currently own 2 DE razors (A Merkur 11c and a Muhle 89R) and these are great but I have a very cheap drugstore brush and cream. Which would you recommend buying first? A quality shaving brush or quality shaving cream to upgrade?
Many Thanks, C.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Walker,
I would recommend upgrading to a better cream next. Using a better cream will much improve your shave and you can still use the inexpensive brush for quite some time and still get good results. I would suggest you try Bluebeard’s Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Edwin Jagger, Truefitt & Hill and many others you will find here. Good luck and enjoy the new cream!
Cheers,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Special tension ring pliers for the Merkur 38C
Mike Sandberg, from the USA, asks:
“I recently purchased a Merkur 38C as my first adventure in shaving with a safety razor. I immediately opened it when I got home to put in a blade and the base of the unit came out. It has some sort of tension ring at the base (to ensure a snug fit, no doubt). My trouble is, it doesn’t seem to want to go back into the shaft of the razor. Is there something I’m missing or is there a tip/trick that seasoned safety razor aficionados have? Many thanks in advance. Cheers, Mike”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Sandberg,
Thanks for your question! This is indeed a trick, and there are special tension ring pliers that you can purchase from your local hardware or tool supplier to reinsert the ring back into the handle. If you continue to have problems or cannot get the razor reassembled I suggest contacting the supplier from which you bought the razor. I hope you get the razor fixed and shaving soon!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Could you recommend a razor and cream for sensitive skin and thin blond hair?
Robin Worboyes, from the UK, asks:
“Dear sir, I have long struggled with poor shaving results, using the typical shop brands, and would like to shave properly (having never actually been taught). Could you recommend a razor and cream etc for sensitive skin and thin blond hair. I would also very much like to know where the badger hair comes from (I thought it was a protected species) and how it is sourced? Many thanks, Kind regards Robin.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Worboyes,
Thanks for your question! I can certainly recommend some products for you! As to razors I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Bluebeards Scimitar, and the Muhle R89 & R106 razors. As far as creams, I really like the creams carried here at Shaving-Shack including (but not limited to) Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Proraso, and Cyril Salter among others. You should be able to find something in those that would satisfy your scent palette and shaving needs.
To answer your second part of the question Badger is a protected species in Most of Europe and the USA. However most badger hair comes from China where the badger is still quite a nuisance and many of the farmers there trap them to protect their crops, selling their furs to brush manufacturers. I hope this helps ease your mind that they are not being killed needlessly! Thanks for you questions, and good luck with your shaving journey!
Best of Shaves,
Aaron”
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