Ask Aaron Q/A: Beard shaping - Mach 3 Razor vs Double Edge Safety Razor
Aaron is asked a question about the best ways to shape a beard using a double edge safety razor
Saby Sambhi, from the UK, asks:
“Hey Aaron, I have recently graduated to a DE safety razor from a Gillette Mach 3. I have a Merkur 34c razor, Edwin Jagger super badger hair brush and Taylor of Old Bond street almond shaving cream.
So far the shaves have been amazingly close but I am having issues with shaping my beard. The razor works great shaving large areas such as my neck but I can’t see where I am shaving for the intricate areas due to the thickness of the cream and this is leading to shaping mistakes.
Can you please advise the best way to address this? Previously with my Mach3 I was able to to cover the areas requiring detail with a thin layer of soap allowing me to see where I am going and due to the relatively benign nature of the blades this provided adequate protection and lubrication but I feel a DE razor will be too aggressive for this approach?
Any help is greatly appreciated! Many thanks, Saby.”
A double edge razor is a great tool for shaping a beard
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Saby,
Actually the same approach you used with the Mach 3 you can apply with the Merkur. What I recommend (and I do myself) is to take your finger and gently wipe away the majority of the lather, leaving behind a thin layer. The thin layer will give you the protection and glide you are looking for and still give you good visibility! Another thought would be to use a shavette such as a Dovo or Bluebeard’s “cut-throat” to do the fine work. Both methods work equally well and should give you the results you are looking for!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How to prevent razor bumps for men who are African-Caribbean
Aaron is asked a question from an African-Caribbean man on the best ways to combat razor bumps
Osa Omo, from the UK, asks:
“As an African-Caribbean man who suffers from painful razor bumps caused by ingrowing hairs how often should I shave? Every day, every other day, once a week or perhaps once a month?”
Razor bumps are very painful
AARON SAYS
“Mr Omo,
I would have you shave as often you feel that your beard needs it. There is not hard and fast rule saying you have to shave every day or every other day. It is up to your face and your judgement on how it feels and when you should shave. I will say that for Afro-Caribbean men especially it helps to shave with a double edge or single edge razor. Shaving at the surface of the skin, as opposed to pulling the hair and releasing it under the skin as cartridge razors do, goes a very long way in preventing ingrown hair. So in final answer it is not how often that matters most, but what tools you use that will help you the most.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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How to shave properly with a double edge safety razor - Simple shaving techniques & tips
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be an enjoyable experience
So often the questions that come to us here at The Shaving Shack are from gents, and sometimes ladies, new to the wet shaving experience. They ask for information regarding a more luxurious way to take care of themselves, information on how to start wet shaving, however most often the questions revolve around improving their current shaving regimen. Bits and pieces of information have been shared in our Question and Answer section but we thought a more comprehensive review of technique was in order.
Grain direction
First we address the topic of shaving “with the grain”. Shaving “with the grain” means following the direction of hair growth with your razor. For instance, if the hair on your upper lip grows straight down towards your mouth you would shave towards your mouth from your nose to shave with the grain. The importance of following the direction of hair growth lies in the ease of cutting the hair. It causes less distress to the hair, hair follicle, and skin underneath while also offering the path of least resistance. Following this technique if your skin in prone to breaking out with spots or ingrown hairs is especially helpful.
Passes
Discussion of grain direction leads us into the next technique of reducing the beard by separate “passes”. Often you will see these passes referred to as “with the grain, across the grain, and against the grain.” Following the order of passes serves to reduce the hair in steps to get as close to the surface of the skin as possible. Going with the grain we discussed above. Shaving at a 90 degree angle, or perpendicular to the direction of growth will follow a path across the grain. Shaving in the reverse direction of growth goes against the grain. Often you see debate as to whether this last step is necessary, however most folks will find that shaving against the grain will top off their shave with the smoothest finish. If you find that your skin is sensitive, or you are new to wet shaving, leaving off this last pass until you are comfortable with the technique and blade angle is advisable.
A safety razor will give you a much close shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Blade angle
Speaking of blade angle, what is a good angle to hold one’s razor? The first caveat being if you are using a disposable cartridge razor, the angle of the blades is pre-set and you need not worry about it. However to those shaving with double edge razors such as The Bluebeards Revenge Scimitar, Merkur 37c, or other fine razors this matters a great deal. Too shallow an angle and you are not taking off as much beard as you can, too much and you end up scraping skin instead of cutting hair! Neither outcome is advisable! If measured out properly the angle comes out to somewhere close to 30 degrees. However different razors can have differently shaped heads and this angle can differ. The best way we have found is to hold the razor with the handle sticking out perpendicular to your face, and as you slide the razor gently down your face I sharpen the angle so the blade edge nears the hair. When you feel the blade edge begin to catch and cut the hair you have found the correct angle.
Pressure
Hand in hand with this is pressure. No one likes pressure at work, home, and especially when a razor sharp blade is against your face. Unless perhaps you’re 007! Using as little pressure as possible no matter your choice in the style of razor is best practice. Because of the hinge on most cartridge razors more pressure will be needed than for a double edge razor, however a light hand will still go a long ways. “What kind of pressure is too much or too little?” We hear you ask? Allow the razor to just set on your face with its natural weight and letting gravity draw it in the direction of your pass is the easiest gauge.
These basic techniques will help set your shaving for smooth success!
Another small piece of technical advice that will help you on your journey is to keep you arm straight, locking your wrist, and use the movement of your whole arm to control the razor. This will help you control angle, pressure, and prevent painful gouges. (Ouch!) These basic techniques will help set your shaving for smooth success! And smooth is what we are after, right? Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more in depth looks at wet shaving technique in articles to come.
Ask Aaron Q/A: The best double edge razor blades for sensitive skin
Aaron is asked a question about the best double edge razor blades for guys with sensitive skin
Blair Valentine-Purnell, from the UK, asks:
“I recently got a double edge safety razor to help with my ingrowing hair problems and have had quite a bit of success- as long as I don’t leave it too long between shaves- but do suffer from a little bit of skin irritation afterwards. Are there any particular double edge razor blades that are better for sensitive skin?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Valentine-Purnell,
While not specifically designed for sensitive skin, there are razor blades that would be more suited for a sensitive face. Firstly, I would not recommend Feathers because they are extremely sharp and unforgiving for mistakes.
However, look for blades that have a Teflon coating, this tends to make a smoother shave. (keeping things smooth and sticky-free was what Teflon was designed for after all!). Try the Gillette, Astra, black label Israeli, and Lord super chrome blades.
If you can find them Polsilver blades are very smooth, however they are rumored to be out of production. These have all given me good success and good shaves. It will take some trial and error to find the right one for you.
Happy shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
One of the more frequent questions we receive for the Ask Aaron articles is with shaving blemishes and problems affecting the skin. Many complain of razor burn, redness, irritation, bumps, ingrown hairs and many other maladies. These issues can make shaving difficult at best and painful at worst! Thankfully there are many solutions to these problems to offer relief!
Razor rash is a problem for many men around the world
First let us deal with what is the most frequent complaint, razor burn. Razor burn is usually a redness soreness, or inflammation of the skin. These conditions are cause by the blade scraping against the skin removing the top layers of epidermis. To ease the inflammation and burn, if possible, give your face several days rest from shaving. Apply a moisturizing after shave balm such as Proraso, The Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Men-U, Castle Forbes, and E-shave to aid in helping the skin to heal. Use as little pressure as possible while shaving. If you are shaving with a double-edge razor make sure the angle of the razor is around thirty degrees, and you keep your wrist locked using your whole arm for the movement instead.
Ingrown hairs are less common than razor burn, but the more painful affliction shavers complain about. With an ingrown hair the hair grows under the surface of the skin causing damage, spots, and sometimes infection. The human hair has the same hardness as copper wire of the same diameter, so no wonder it hurts as a freshly cut hair grows and digs under the skin! If you currently have ingrown hairs avoid shaving the area for a few days and use a gentle scrub to bring the hair up to the skin’s surface. You can also use an old, clean toothbrush to brush at the hair and pull it to the surface as well. Keep the area well moisturized with lotion or balm to aid the healing process. Another remedy is crushing and creating a simple paste out of an aspirin or vitamin C. Applying the paste to the affected area helps to apply the healing acids in the aspirin and vitamin C and gives some pain relief as well.
To prevent ingrown hairs avoid shaving against the direction of hair growth
To prevent ingrown hairs avoid shaving against the direction of hair growth, especially if your hair grows closely parallel to the surface of the skin. Also consider using a razor that has as few blades as possible to shave with. Modern cartridge razors work on the principal of the first blade pulling the first hair up, the following blades cutting the hair, and the cut hair settling back down under the surface of the skin. With the freshly cut and sharp hair this is an immediate setup for an ingrown hair, especially if you already have trouble with them or have very curly hair.
“Masking” or a discoloration of the shaved area of skin is a malady that can be caused by poor technique or product, too much pressure, an allergic reaction to a certain ingredient (lime and sandalwood essential oils, or preservatives being the most common irritants), or a variety of other common factors. As with other troubles examine razor angle and technique, use a healing ski food or balm, and if possible allow the skin to rest for several days before shaving again.
Dumping the multi-bladed cartridge razor and investing in a DE safety razor can help to improve the quality of a shave
If you use a multi-bladed cartridge razor and are experiencing these or other skin problems, try a transition to a double edge razor. Many of the men we have corresponded with experience an alleviation of symptoms after switching. If your symptoms persist after trying the solutions above or worsen consider a consultation with your doctor or dermatologist as there may be underlying issues that may need addressing. We hope that if you are experiencing some of the problems above that you can find some relief in this advice soon! As always we wish you smooth and happy shaving!
Safety razor buying guide - How to choose the right DE safety razor
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to choosing the right double edge razor
Often the question asked by our customers after “How do I get started traditionally shaving?” comes “Which razor do I use?”. With so many varieties and choices on the market it is no doubt that the choices would be overwhelming. Three piece, two piece; adjustable versus non-adjustable; turn to open doors; chrome, satin, red, blue or black, ivory; aggressive versus mild shavers, no wonder it is confusing! Let’s shed some light on the essentials, how they will affect your shave, and some recommended models for you to try.
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
As you learn the technique of shaving with a double edge razor a milder shaving razor would be better than a more aggressive shaving razor. The milder razor would be more forgiving of poor technique or mistakes reducing the risk of nicks and cuts. This mildness or aggressiveness comes down to blade exposure: the lesser blade exposure the milder the shave and conversely the more blade exposed the more aggressive the shave. There are articles on shaving forums across the web identifying the exact blade gap measured in microns, but for our purposes here we won’t be that detailed. Typically those razors that are two or three pieces, and those that are non-adjustable are more mild. The noticeable exception to this rule is the Muhle R41, which despite being a three piece razor is one of the more aggressive shaving razors on the market.
The shape of your face and body is a thing to consider. If you have a smaller face, a razor with a large head such as the Merkur Vision or Futur would prove impractical to shave with. Also if you have large hands you might want to consider a razor with a longer handle. Razors such as the Merkur 38c Barberpole, Progress, 25c and 23c all either are or have long handled versions. Another point of consideration is grip and steadiness of hand. If you have concerns about being able to hold your razor, choose one with knurling (the criss-cross pattern cut into the metal), it will provide a rougher surface with less slippage.
The Goodfella Chrome Safety Razor
For our beginning shavers we recommend the Bluebeards Scimitar, Muhle R89, Merkur 38c barberpole, Edwin Jagger DE89 and Parker 94r. These razors all have good reputations within the shaving community, and have a lesser blade gap. As you progress in experience and technique the need to upgrade your razor or buy another may come. For the more experienced shaver we recommend the Merkur Progress, 37c Slant, Muhle R41, and Merkur Futur amoung others. These razors are aggressive in nature, or can adjust their blade gap from a mild exposure to a much wider gap. Another option would be the open comb razor. The comb allows for a closer exposure to the blade and the comb acts as a guide for the hair leading it directly to the blade. Gentlemen with hair that grows closely to the skin, or with tough beards seem to benefit best from an open comb such as the Merkur 23c, 15c, Fatip Piccolo, and Goodfella.
Whatever your needs are: shaving fine or coarse hair, thin or thick, knowing your face and knowing the right razor to suit your needs will go a long way in improving your grooming experience.
The ultimate guide to double edge shaving - DE shaving for beginners
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to double edge shaving
Here at Shaving Shack, our mailbox is flooded with gents often complaining, and rightly so, about the high costs of cartridges and asking advice about how to get started traditionally shaving. It is undisputable that shaving with a double edge razor is less expensive than using modern cartridges. Just a simple cost comparison shows that for the same price of a pack of 4 replacement cartridges, you can buy 50-100 double edge blades. We love hearing from you our loyal customers and would like to offer you some practical points on how to get started!
The first place to start would be the equipment: razor, blades, brush, soap/cream, and aftershave. It seems like a lot, but once you get these main purchases down they will last you for many years, decades, or life. As with many purchases start with what you can afford, and as you get used to traditional shaving explore and find which items suit your needs best.
Double Edge Safety Razors
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Your razor should be one with good reviews and from a reputable company such as Merkur, Muhle, Edwin Jagger, or The Bluebeards Revenge. I personally recommend The Bluebeards Scimitar, Merkur 34C, and Edwin Jagger DE89 as great beginner razors.
Shaving Soaps & Creams
The Bluebeards Revenge is one of the best shaving creams on the market
Soaps and creams can be found in a huge variety of scents and flavours. If you know your water type, creams tend to work better in hard water and soaps better in soft water. However, this is not a hard and fast rule, and good technique can overcome most water quality issues. Many of the most popular companies to produce soaps and creams are Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Cyril Salter, Mitchell’s Wool Fat, and Proraso amoung many others.
Double Edge Razor Blades
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience, but it is best to start with a good standard blade and as your technique improves, then find a blade that more suits your face. Some of the most popular blades are Derby, Feather, Personna, Shark, and Wilkinson-Sword.
Shaving Brushes
A shaving brush can improve the overall quality of a shave
An overwhelming variety of choices can be found for the shaving brush, with the hair type being the most obvious. Choices of boar bristle, badger hair, and a variety of synthetics are available on the market. If your convictions lead you to stay away from animal products, you are in luck as many advancements in recent years have led to great strides in synthetic fibers being able to function as natural hair. The Men-U brushes have received rave reviews in their ability to hold water and produce good lather. The Bluebeards Vanguard brush should also be a good bet to try as well. For a natural hair brush, boar bristle brushes tend to be less expensive, but perform well. The Semogue 830 and 1305 are quite popular, as is the Vulfix Grosvenor, and the Bluebeards Revenge Dubloon. The badger hair brush has been used for many many years, and is the most desirable. It has a superior water retaining quality, softness on the face, and a superior lathering ability. There are many to choose from and a few recommended would be the Bluebeard Privateer, the Kent BK4, Simpsons Duke, with Plisson being the cream of the crop. As mentioned above buy the best you can afford, the quality will reward you with a better feel, and longevity.
The Perfect Shaving Routine
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be a pleasure and not a chore
To perform the shave, first shower or hold a hot wet towel to the face; this softens the outer layer of hair allowing for an easier cut. Prepare the brush by soaking it in water, then gently shaking the majority of the water out. Gently press the tips of the brush into the cream or soap gathering enough material to shave with. Lather your soap in a bowl or on your face using a whipping motion and adding water as needed to create a thick lather that resembles whipped cream or meringue. Holding your razor against the face an an approximate 30 degree angle, shave with as little pressure as possible in the direction of hair growth. Remember to use short strokes and rinse the razor often. After you have completed the first pass, re-lather and shave across the direction of hair growth, then rinse the lather from your face. After rinsing apply your choice of aftershave, whether a balm or alcohol based splash.
Shaving Tips
A few tips as you improve your technique: keep your wrist locked and use a whole arm motion, a pre-shave oil will help those gents with tougher beards to retain moisture and provide glide, leaving 2-3 days between shaves gives the skin rest and leaves longer hair to shave. With these general gear guides and tips we hope you will have the information to choice your equipment well and have a fabulous shave!
If you have any questions for Aaron please submit them here.
Ultimate shaving guides
> Safety razor buying guide – How to choose the right DE safety razor
> Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
> How to care for a shaving brush – Top tips for maintaining your shaving brush
> An easy step-by-step method for getting the best lather out of shaving cream
Double edge shaving: Do you remember your first time?
Switching your shaving habits from a mass produced multi-bladed cartridge razor to a double edge safety razor is a great way of ensuring that proper, manly shave. But for many men around the world this can be a daunting move and something that is not taken lightly. But the rewards are great, as Steven Pearson, one of our customers, found out.
Here is his story:
Vividly, it was quite frankly horrible. I was a ridiculously moody teenager with more bum fluff than I, and it turns out most of my class mates, thought natural, so after skulking off home I decided to take matters into my own shaky hands. Armed with some shockingly blue old spice shaving gel stolen from my brother and also a clean razor from the brother’s stash, I wandered into the bathroom with much trepidation.
Steven Pearson applies some shaving cream with his shaving brush
What happened next is still difficult to describe, my non-washed or softened skin getting slavered with untold luminous chemicals, sliding across the grain, bleeding and, for the piece de resistance, a loud bang from the kitchen door as it is slammed shut after getting caught with the breeze that made me jump so high that I almost cut my chin off. In fact the scar was there for a good six months and was the starting point of any conversation that a female tried to have with me for the entire summer. That’s the best a man can get? - was it hell!
Over the next couple of years I tried various shapes, sizes and blade numbers with limited success until, as a poor broke student I stumbled across a double edged black, but yet again, double edged razor sold in Boots. It was amazing, still not at the level of doing anything vaguely helpful in the way of pre or post shave care but I learnt how to shave properly and with confidence for the entirety of my student life. That is until my first pay packet saw me running out to buy the latest, shiniest, many-bladed monstrosity that I ravaged my skin with for the next 18 years.
That was until recently, when again financial constraints and silent mouthing of “how much” in supermarket aisles drove me back to the same high street retailer where, sitting quietly and plainly, in the almost easily overlooked part of the shaving section stood my saviour.
Mass produced, made of plastic and badly made, of course - so badly that a quick once over with a blade and nail file to the flashed edges was necessary, was my Wilkinson sword classic, complete with blades - an absolute bargain! Home I rushed and quickly washed and prepared my face and drew the old friend across it, it was like a homecoming.
Steven Pearson shaves with a DE safety razor
A homecoming to that fateful first day and a blood loss of prestigious proportions as I attempted to remember how to shave properly! And yes over the next few days, and I am ashamed to say weeks, I relearnt the art of shaving. Not much has changed to be honest, early mornings are still a ridiculous time to get up, but the array of products available to Joe Bloggs has improved dramatically thanks to the advent of the Internet and the postal van of happiness that now drops off delights at my house regularly.
The feeling of delight when your face has its whiskers cleanly lopped off is still there and the clean shaven face that greets me with its big smile is more familiar than before, it seems to say: ”welcome to the billionaires boys club, we all shave like this”. Work seems a bit more impressed, with one of my colleagues commenting about how fresh faced I looked.
The good lady seems impressed too; comments about how she prefers to see me clean shaven have reduced as I’m always clean shaven now. Also the incidence of the European kiss hello, you know, the one where you get a kiss of the side of the face instead of square on the smackers has reduced dramatically. Long live the double edged razor and all who use her!
Ask Aaron Q/A: Palm stropping & corking of razor blades
Aaron is asked a question about double edge razor blade harshness
Grant Letham, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I’m enjoying my double edge shaving experience with my Edwin Jagger D89. Currently using routine of shower, King of Shaves shaving oil, lather - proraso or arko, 2 pass shave - 1 with and 1 across grain, cold water rinse and then moisturiser. I’m finding the first shave with a fresh blade can be risky in terms of nicks and cuts. Any clues as to how I can minimise / avoid this?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Letham,
I too experience new blade harshness occasionally. I have heard this can be due to tiny burrs left over from the manufacturing process. There are two methods I would recommend trying: corking and palm stropping.
For corking, take a natural cork stopper from a wine bottle, and run the blade edge into the cor gently two or three times.
For palm stopping, grasp the blade in the middle and rub the blade away from the edge on the thick of your palm. This can be a little bit tricky, so watch the following video tutorial to see exactly what I mean: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ogq4wfpT7hc. This should help with those new blade blues!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
The soaring cost of cartridge razor blades under the spotlight again
The increasing cost of cartridge razor blades has been a grave concern for millions of men all over the globe.
And now Northern Ireland’s Democratic Unionist Party (DUP) have expressed their concern over the cost of shaving. So much so that three of their MPs have backed a Commons call for the pricing to be looked at.
The Early Day Motion notes “the exorbitant increase in the retail price of men’s razor blade cartridges where in three years the price has increased in some cases by almost 100%”.
The three MPs, East Londonderry MP Gregory Campbell, South Antrim MP Willie McCrea and David Simpson, have called on the Office of Fair Trading and consumer bodies to investigate why prices so are so high.
They said “it has been reported that the production costs per cartridge are in pence, while marketing, packaging and profiteering are resulting in margins of around a 1,000%, with an eight-cartridge pack currently retailing at many outlets at approximately £22″.
Here at The Shaving Shack we agree that the cost of cartridge blades is something that needs to be addressed, but there is an easy solution guys – change your shaving habits and ditch the overpriced cartridge razor. Opt instead for a double edge safety razor and if you’re feeling really adventurous, a straight or cut throat razor (as it’s more commonly referred to).
Not only will both types of razor give you a better quality of shave, they are also much cheaper in the long run.
A lot of men are simply unaware over the financial benefits of using a DE razor instead of a cartridge, so I thought it would be interesting to commission a new report and treat the exercise as an investment decision.
I spoke to leading business author and wet shaving enthusiast Andrew Wilson, who took time out of his busy schedule to look at the subject in detail.
And this is what he found:
“If you assume you buy a reasonable DE razor for £50 and a shaving brush for £35, shaving soap for £9 and just buy one blade for 20 pence, your upfront costs are about £94.20. To buy a “typical” cartridge razor, some foam and 1 blade costs you £17.86. So in upfront costs you need to spend £76.34 more on a DE razor.
“Now if you look at the annual renewal costs of each of these types of shaving you find that the DE method costs about £20.10 a year if you shave 6 times a week and change your blade after 4 shaves, and use half a shaving soap a year. The “typical” cartridge razor comes in at £100.22 a year. This assumes you get 10 shaves per blade and you shave 6 times a week. It assumes you have to buy a new razor every three years and that you buy 4 cans of foam a year. (Altogether not unrealistic)
“This means that each year that you shave with DE, you save £80.12. So is this a worthwhile investment. If you assume inflation at 3% and discount the cash flow over 20 years, that £76.34 investment is worth over £1,000 (Net present value) to you in today’s money! Or an Internal rate of return (IRR) of over 105%.
“Basically if you were a private equity business and this was an investment deal, the project would be a go.”
So guys please, please bin the multi-bladed cartridge razor and invest in some decent shaving equipment that is not just going to give you a closer and more comfortable shave (here is why), but also save you hundreds of pounds.
Change your shaving habits today….
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