Ask Aaron Q/A: Beard shaping - Mach 3 Razor vs Double Edge Safety Razor
Aaron is asked a question about the best ways to shape a beard using a double edge safety razor
Saby Sambhi, from the UK, asks:
“Hey Aaron, I have recently graduated to a DE safety razor from a Gillette Mach 3. I have a Merkur 34c razor, Edwin Jagger super badger hair brush and Taylor of Old Bond street almond shaving cream.
So far the shaves have been amazingly close but I am having issues with shaping my beard. The razor works great shaving large areas such as my neck but I can’t see where I am shaving for the intricate areas due to the thickness of the cream and this is leading to shaping mistakes.
Can you please advise the best way to address this? Previously with my Mach3 I was able to to cover the areas requiring detail with a thin layer of soap allowing me to see where I am going and due to the relatively benign nature of the blades this provided adequate protection and lubrication but I feel a DE razor will be too aggressive for this approach?
Any help is greatly appreciated! Many thanks, Saby.”
A double edge razor is a great tool for shaping a beard
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Saby,
Actually the same approach you used with the Mach 3 you can apply with the Merkur. What I recommend (and I do myself) is to take your finger and gently wipe away the majority of the lather, leaving behind a thin layer. The thin layer will give you the protection and glide you are looking for and still give you good visibility! Another thought would be to use a shavette such as a Dovo or Bluebeard’s “cut-throat” to do the fine work. Both methods work equally well and should give you the results you are looking for!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Upgrading my shaving kit, what should I invest in?
Chris Walker, from Hungry, asks:
“Hi there, I was wondering what next to invest in to upgrade my shaving kit? I currently own 2 DE razors (A Merkur 11c and a Muhle 89R) and these are great but I have a very cheap drugstore brush and cream. Which would you recommend buying first? A quality shaving brush or quality shaving cream to upgrade?
Many Thanks, C.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Walker,
I would recommend upgrading to a better cream next. Using a better cream will much improve your shave and you can still use the inexpensive brush for quite some time and still get good results. I would suggest you try Bluebeard’s Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Edwin Jagger, Truefitt & Hill and many others you will find here. Good luck and enjoy the new cream!
Cheers,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: What is your top lip and under chin shave routine?
John Chapman, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, can you describe your top lip and under chin routine? I’m having difficulty in those areas thanks.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Spanner,
Well, honestly I sport a Van Dyke, so I rarely shave those areas. However, when I do here is what I do. I prep the whole area as usual but on each pass of the upper lip make sure to stretch the upper lip as much as possible, and instead of going directly against the grain go slightly angled. So if north is fully against the grain go northeast or northwest. For the chin tilt your head up, stretching the skin, as well as draw your lower lip into you mouth. This also flattens your chin making it easier to shave. I hope these help!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: The Muhle R106 Double Edge Safety Razor
Darren Pedley, from the UK, asks:
“I have the Muhle - R106 Double Edge Safety Razor it doesn’t seem to give me a very close shave at all. I think it is because of the comb? I am left with stubble. Could you suggest a razor without a comb or another razor that will give me the same closeness as a cartridge shave or closer?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Pedley,
Before picking up another razor, let’s look at a few things before going that route. Make sure you are prepping your beard area well with a hot shower and a good face wash or scrub. Next after unwrapping a sharp blade from the wax paper (providing it has some) make sure it aligns properly with the edge of the razor. Next align the razor at approximately a 30 degree angle to your face, this is the optimum cutting ange for the blade. Next, as you shave make sure you try going three passes on your beard area. Go first with the direction of hair growth, next across the grain of growth, and lastly against the direction of growth. Touch up different areas as needed but this should provide you with a smooth close shave with little to no stubble. If you continue to have trouble eliminating your stubble submit another e-mail and we’ll do what we can to troubleshoot some more!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: DE Razors – Heavy or Light, Which is best?
Steven Cox, from the UK, asks:
“Having never used a double edge safety razor before I do not know whether to use a light or heavy razor. Are there any general guidelines I could follow to help me make my choice?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Cox,
Whether you have a light or heavy razor is truly a matter of personal preference. I generally recommend heavier razors for new shaver because it allows them to easier feel the razor and let the razor to the work cutting the hair. All that to say that I would recommend a heavier razor to begin your journey! Thanks for the question!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Problems shaving under the nose
Christopher McClure, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve been using a double-edge safety razor for a couple of months and have largely mastered my morning shave. The one area where I still struggle to get a really close shave is under my nose. I shave in three passes, but everytime I try to shave against the grain, on the third pass, under my nose I end up cutting myself - do you have any advice? I’m using a Merkur 34C, Feather blades, King of Shaves oil and Shaving Shack soap.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. McClure,
The mustache is truly a hard area to shave and your problem is common to many men. Thank you for asking! From your list it seems you have great products behind your shave, so don’t change anything there. Because the nose gets in the way and it’s so hard to maintain a proper angle. If you could live with it, try going without the against the grain pass. If you want a closer shave try going across the grain again in the opposite direction. Another solution would be to go against the grain, just not with as full on an angle. If the direction South was with the direction of growth, and West/East is across, then try going Northeast and Northwest instead of fully north. Shaving in the slightly altered direction will provide a slicing motion as well going against the grain. This action is often called the “Gillette slide” and can be helpful along with other advanced shaving techniques such as “Blade buffing” and “J-hooking”.
Smooth shaving! Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Shaving Those Problem Areas
Graham Beattie, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I have a real problem in two areas. First, the corners of my mouth, if I don’t shave close enough it still feels stubly, but if I shave it smooth, I often end up bleeding. Second, my addams apple area, it doesn’t matter how many times I go over this, it still feels stubly. Any ideas?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Beattie,
These areas often cause problems for many men, so take heart you are not alone! What I suggest is stretching the skin to create a flatter surface. This will cause the hairs to strand more erect allowing them to be more easily cut. For the corners of your mouth, try opening your mouth in a very long “0″ shape. For your Adams Apple pull the skin away from the apple and shave on the side that you are pulling. Also, pay attention to the direction of hair growth. To get a closer shave to against the grain and that will also help the feeling of stubble.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Safety Razors - Closed Comb vs Open Comb
Sean Chawla-Duggan, from the UK, asks:
“Aaron, I have a very tough thick beard hair, and while when I do have the luxury of time I get a very good shave with a straight razor, I’d like to have a safety razor for mid week quickies. Should I use open or closed comb?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Chawla-Duggan,
Thank you for writing in! There is much debate surrounding the safety bar vs. open comb with strong opinions on both sides. Open comb razors do tend to be more aggressive and can give an easier shave for those of us with tougher beards. The shave also heavily depends on how sharp your blade is. If you like the look and feel of an open comb, go for it! There is a great open comb version of the Merkur HD which I highly recommend as well as the Muhle open comb.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Finding the best double edge shaving products - Is it a case of trial and error?
Charles Singleton, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, it seems to me that double edge shaving is not as clear cut as shaving with my Mach 3! Now I have a wide choice different blades, razors, creams and brushes. Looking at reviews on websites and forums I get confused as to what to choose because when I find something that has a positive review I usually find an equally negative one! Is it just a case of trial and error as I can see this getting expensive?!”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Singleton,
Yes! I agree the many choices and options can be a bit overwhelming. If I can let me offer some products and advice to help get you on your way.
To start with get a good brush such as a Simpsons, Vulfix, Kent or Bluebeards Revenge. This paired with a good cream such as Bluebeards Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Proraso, Geo. F. Trumper’s and Truefitt & Hill will increase the quality of your shave a lot, even if you decide to keep going with your Mach 3. Should you take the plunge and go with a safety razor the Blue Beard’s Scimitar, Merkur HD, and the Parker 98 or 99R razors will be great ways to start. The most subjective part of wet shaving is the blade. For blades I really suggest you start by buying a single pack of each brand and figure out which rand works best for your face and hair types. Gillette, Merkur, Derby and Israeli made blades are great to start with. I highly suggest waiting on the Feather blades until you gain more experience. They tend to be *cough* VERY unforgiving of student mistakes.
These suggestions should narrow down the choices for you and I hope you enjoy your journey into wet shaving!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Is it okay to mix and match different shaving products?
“Dear Aaron, Is it okay to mix and match different shaving products?” asks Glenn Bullough, from the UK.
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Bullough, Thank you for your question! This is a good question, and it is perfectly fine to mix different brands and kinds of shaving products. If you wanted to use all the same brand that is a great option as well. I know many men (including yours truly!) that both use a single product range for one shave and for the next shave will use a conglomeration of different products.
Smooth Shaving! Aaron”
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