Ask Aaron Q/A: The best ways to maintain a goatee
Aaron answers a question about the best ways to maintain a goatee
Graham Hope, from the UK, asks:
“I have a goatie beard and find it difficult with a normal gillette style razor to keep the shape and remove the small amount of beard from the inside of the beard. Apart from going to my barbers every other week to keep it how he cut it and I like it, what can you recommend?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Hope,
Maintaining facial hair can be tough! Thanks for your question! It sounds as if you are using a cartridge or cassette type razor. I would try stretching your skin in different ways to see if that could help. If not, I recommend picking up a shavette such as a Parker or Bluebeards Revenge shavette this would be a great way to maintain your goatee.
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Redness & rash around goatee after shaving
Aaron is asked to provide tips on how to reduce shaving rash around the goatee area after shaving
David Prest, from UK, asks:
“I have a goatee and when I shape it with my razor I end up with red areas and small red spots around the edges of the beard. I try to be very gentle with my razor (single blade) but still get the red areas and small red spots. What advice would you give me? Many thanks. David”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Prest,
I too have a goatee, and feel your concern over keeping it nicely shaped and having healthy skin around it. I would recommend making sure you are shaving with shaving cream applied, don’t shave without the lubrication it provides! Also you might want to look into using a shaving oil instead of the lather to be able to see more clearly and still have lubrication.
Also make sure you are properly preparing your beard area to shave, and properly restoring your skin with a good aftershave balm. Following these techniques will help improve your shave and your skin.
If you continue to have redness & bumps please write again and we will troubleshoot some more!
Cheers,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Products to fight razor rash & burn & shaving spots
David Mahood, from UK, asks:
“I have just found this site. I am a professional person and need to shave once, maybe twice each day. I currently use Mach3 blades and sensitive shaving foam or gel. My problem is that I suffer really bad redness around the mouth and chin which quite often results in spots after close shaves. Can you recommend any products that will help or relieve my symptoms?”
Aaron suggests using a single bladed razor like the Merkur 37C Slant Bar DE Safety Razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Mahood,
Welcome to our site! Glad that you have been able to find us. As one who also works in a professional environment, I understand your dilemma. The first thing I would recommend is using a good post-shave balm. The ingredients in the balm will help to moisturize and heal your skin after shaving, and reduce the redness and burn.
Secondly you ought to try a pre-shave oil under your shave cream. The oil adds an extra protective layer that increases slickness and moisture to your shave.
If you are willing to go even farther down the rabbit hole I would suggest that you reduce the number of blades you shave with, and consider using a single blade safety razor such as many of the Merkur, Edwin Jagger, Parker, and Bluebeard’s razors we have here on the site. Along with this I would use a good quality cream and brush. These products are meant to give a comfortable and close shave without the irritation that occur by using the canned cream and gel products.
For creams I would recommends any Taylor of Old Bond Street, The Bluebeard’s Revenge, Proraso, Cyril Salter and many others here on the site. If you would like any more assistance or help in taking the plunge with traditional wet-shaving please feel free to contact us here and we’ll be glad to help! Thanks for your question!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Neck irritation after shaving
Charles Culverwell, from UK, asks:
“I have been wet shaving for about four months now. I have a Futur, 38C barber pole, Gillette ’1964′ superspeed, and an Edwin Jagger DE89. I use Taylor of Old Bond St Shaving Cream. Despite varying the razor and the blade (feathers or derbys usually) I still get irritation at the base of my neck where the last bit of hair is. The direction of growth is a bit strange as it goes sideways. I have tried going up and down but still find I get a red ring like I’ve had a rope around my neck. This issue continues to my Adam’s apple area which I can’t shave across the grain without huge irritation and bleeding! Could you please suggest anything else to try.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Culverwell, I certainly understand your frustration, the hair on my neck grows in the same way changing direction to grow sideways at the collar line. This growth pattern does make it difficult to shave, however let me share some techniques and products that I have found that have helped.
First use a shaving oil whether by itself or as an under layer to the shaving cream. This keeps the skin and hair extra moist leaving it much easier to shave. The oil also adds an extra layer of lubrication helping the razor “glide” instead of catching and causing irritation or redness.
Second use stretching techniques to keep the skin flat and taught. A flatter surface is always easier to shave and you can accomplish this by stretching your neck up, turning your head side to side, or even using your opposite hand to pull the skin down or to the side. This step reduces the curves in your skin giving the razor a flatter, easier surface to shave.
Lastly use a good quality post-shave balm, not an alcohol based lotion on freshly shaved skin. The moisturizing and healing agents found in post-shave balms will greatly benefit your skin in combating and healing from razor burn, rash, ingrowns and other issues that plague the shaver. There are many balms out there to choose from including The Bluebeards Revenge, Proraso, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Men-U, and Edwin Jagger just to name a good, select few.
I hope these tips help with your shaving, if you continue to have problems please write again and we will troubleshoot some more!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Shaving with and against the grain
Alric Horn, from UK, asks:
“I am very new to using a safety razor, is it possible to do three passes with the grain and get a very close shave or do I need to shave against the grain.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Horn,
It is possible to do three with the grain passes, however if you wish for a closer shave and are not yet ready to try against the grain I would recommend going across the grain. Find the direction of hair growth and shave 90 degrees from that direction. This will help reduce the beard even more without the challenges that go with against the grain. Welcome to wet-shaving and best of luck!
Cheers,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Shaving creams for sensitive skin
Andrew Horwell, from the UK, asks:
“I have been using the TOBS Jermyn as my first double edge shaving cream and it has been great, lathers well and smells nice. I have sensitive skin and have been looking at some other cream to try. I am not sure whether to try: 1) TOBS fragrance free sensitive. 2) Truefitt & Hill Ultimate comfort. 3) Fjitar Shea butter. 4) Proraso ‘cream’ (not soap). 5) The Bluebeards Revenge.
What would you recommend? Is the TOBS fragrance free more or less the same as Jermyn? Also I have a best badger hair shaving brush, would it be worth upgrading at any point and would I see any noticeable difference?
Many Thanks Aaron”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Horwell,
You have a great kit to start out with. The Jermyn Street cream is well regarded, and if you were wanting to try another that would be compatible with your sensitive skin the Bluebeard’s Revenge and TOBS fragrance free would both be worthy choices. as far as upgrading your brush, that is up to you. The “Best” badger hair grade is considered a medium grade and many men are very happy with their best brushes. If you think you would like to experiment and upgrade then go for it! Most importantly be happy with your choices and pleased with how they give you a shave. Hope you find your best combination possible!
Cheers,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Top shaving tips for an irritation free shave
Jose a Diaz Ocasio, from Puerto Rico, asks:
“I want to get a clean close shave every time I shave. So I was wondering if you can provide me with some useful shaving tips for a clean close shave?”
Shaving should be a pleasure and not a chore
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Ocasio,
I’ve written several articles on this subject, but will try to condense them into a concise answer for you. First make sure you start with a clean well hydrated face. Then shave with a good sharp blade using a good hydrating cream, and I recommend applying a layer of shaving oil first before applying the shaving cream. Once you begin shaving shave first with the direction of growth, then across, then against to get a very close shave. Use some stretching techniques to help get the skin surface as flat as possible. There is a lot more detail and technique that could be gone into, but using these tips should help improve your smooth shaves a lot!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: What is your top lip and under chin shave routine?
John Chapman, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, can you describe your top lip and under chin routine? I’m having difficulty in those areas thanks.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Spanner,
Well, honestly I sport a Van Dyke, so I rarely shave those areas. However, when I do here is what I do. I prep the whole area as usual but on each pass of the upper lip make sure to stretch the upper lip as much as possible, and instead of going directly against the grain go slightly angled. So if north is fully against the grain go northeast or northwest. For the chin tilt your head up, stretching the skin, as well as draw your lower lip into you mouth. This also flattens your chin making it easier to shave. I hope these help!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Top tips on extending the life of double edge razor blades
John Bennett, from the UK, asks:
“Aaron, I have a Merkur safety razor and also a shavette, both with disposable blades. (This is to avoid having to attempt to sharpen a straight razor). When using disposable blades how many shaves should you get per blade? And any tips on how to get the best from them? I usually use the Derby blades.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Bennett,
Thanks for your question! Unfortunately the answer is quite subjective. There are many variables on how many shaves a blades lasts and it also depends from person to person.
The best way to know when your blade needs changing is when it begins to pull the hair instead of cut it smoothly. Whatever that point is, whether it be two days or ten, is the time to change blades.
If you want to extend your blade life, swish your razor in rubbing/isopropanol alcohol or take a cotton swab that has been soaked in oil and run it along the blade edge.
This removes the water from the blade edge causing less corrosion leading to a dull blade edge. Try these tips and you’ll see an increase in your blade life!
There is also the option to invest in a razor blade sharpener like the RazorPit.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How to avoid nicks & cuts when shaving with a DE safety razor
Les Edwards, from the UK, asks:
“I have been using Gillette razors most of my life, I have just brought and used for the first time a safety razor which I bought from Boots, to say it was a bloodbath is an understatement, it looked like a suicide bid in my bathroom, I am assuming I did something wrong! Please help!! On the bits that remained blood free, it was the closest shave ever.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Edwards,
I’m glad you have decided to take the plunge into safety razor shaving!
A few tips should bring you closer to shaving without such a bloodletting. First, shower before you shave, and once you get out apply a good pre-shave cream or oil.
Next use a good shaving cream that is applied with a brush or your hand, not canned, pressurized goo! Third, study the way your beard grows and shave with the direction of growth for a while. You will just want to go with the grain until you master the techniques, it might not be as close at first, but you will reap the benefits in the long run.
Next lock your wrist as your shave and keep the blade angle at approximately 30 degrees.
Fifth, rinse your razor often to prevent debris and lather clogging up the razor.
Lastly, after all this use a styptic pen on any cuts or nicks and apply a good post-shave balm or cream to sooth and tend to your freshly shaven face! Put these int practice and I’m sure your shaves will improve in no time!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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