Ask Aaron Q&A: Turning razor blades around at periodic intervals
Gary Whittles, from the UK, asks:
“I enjoy double edge razor shaving, preferring the Israeli blades to the Derby blades. However, I have noticed that the Derby blades have numbers 1 and 2 o one side with 3 and 4 on the other. What is the significance of these numbers and should I be turning my blades around at periodic intervals.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Whittles,
I too have seen those numbers and wondered what they were there for. After doing some reading and exploring I eventually found that they have only to do with the manufacturing side of the process. Turning or flipping your blade does not increase it’s lifespan (although some will swear it does) or maintain its sharpness. Thanks very much for your question!
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: How do you achieve the best possible shave?
Darren Edwards, from the UK, asks:
“I recently enjoyed a professional wet shave and have decided to ditch the Gillette M3 Power razor and cheap foams for a decent shave. I’ve just bought a Wilkinson Sword DE razor from boots and some Men-U shaving cream, as well as some balms. What would YOUR recommendation be to achieve the best shave? I’m looking to get the Parker 89R.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Edwards,
We are so glad you’re taking the plunge into traditional shaving! I like to reduce getting a great shave into three easy steps: Prepare, Shave, Protect. Prepare your face for shaving by taking a shower beforehand and use a good face wash or scrub. Also once you step out of the shower apply a good pre-shave oil. Shave your face by using a good balanced razor, a sharp blade, and a good shaving cream applied with a brush (i.e. Bluebeard’s Revenge, Coates, Trumper’s etc.). Shave in three passes going with, across, and against the grain for a close smooth shave. Remember we are just reducing the beard, not trying to remove it, so just let the razor glide across your face, don’t bear down or put any pressure on it. Protect by rinsing your face first in warm water then cold water. Afterward apply a good after shave balm to help protect and keep your skin smooth and hydrated.
If you will follow this three easy steps you will have some of the best shaves ever in no time!.
Smooth shaving! Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Problems shaving under the nose
Christopher McClure, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve been using a double-edge safety razor for a couple of months and have largely mastered my morning shave. The one area where I still struggle to get a really close shave is under my nose. I shave in three passes, but everytime I try to shave against the grain, on the third pass, under my nose I end up cutting myself - do you have any advice? I’m using a Merkur 34C, Feather blades, King of Shaves oil and Shaving Shack soap.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. McClure,
The mustache is truly a hard area to shave and your problem is common to many men. Thank you for asking! From your list it seems you have great products behind your shave, so don’t change anything there. Because the nose gets in the way and it’s so hard to maintain a proper angle. If you could live with it, try going without the against the grain pass. If you want a closer shave try going across the grain again in the opposite direction. Another solution would be to go against the grain, just not with as full on an angle. If the direction South was with the direction of growth, and West/East is across, then try going Northeast and Northwest instead of fully north. Shaving in the slightly altered direction will provide a slicing motion as well going against the grain. This action is often called the “Gillette slide” and can be helpful along with other advanced shaving techniques such as “Blade buffing” and “J-hooking”.
Smooth shaving! Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Safety Razors - Closed Comb vs Open Comb
Sean Chawla-Duggan, from the UK, asks:
“Aaron, I have a very tough thick beard hair, and while when I do have the luxury of time I get a very good shave with a straight razor, I’d like to have a safety razor for mid week quickies. Should I use open or closed comb?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Chawla-Duggan,
Thank you for writing in! There is much debate surrounding the safety bar vs. open comb with strong opinions on both sides. Open comb razors do tend to be more aggressive and can give an easier shave for those of us with tougher beards. The shave also heavily depends on how sharp your blade is. If you like the look and feel of an open comb, go for it! There is a great open comb version of the Merkur HD which I highly recommend as well as the Muhle open comb.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Finding the best double edge shaving products - Is it a case of trial and error?
Charles Singleton, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, it seems to me that double edge shaving is not as clear cut as shaving with my Mach 3! Now I have a wide choice different blades, razors, creams and brushes. Looking at reviews on websites and forums I get confused as to what to choose because when I find something that has a positive review I usually find an equally negative one! Is it just a case of trial and error as I can see this getting expensive?!”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Singleton,
Yes! I agree the many choices and options can be a bit overwhelming. If I can let me offer some products and advice to help get you on your way.
To start with get a good brush such as a Simpsons, Vulfix, Kent or Bluebeards Revenge. This paired with a good cream such as Bluebeards Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Proraso, Geo. F. Trumper’s and Truefitt & Hill will increase the quality of your shave a lot, even if you decide to keep going with your Mach 3. Should you take the plunge and go with a safety razor the Blue Beard’s Scimitar, Merkur HD, and the Parker 98 or 99R razors will be great ways to start. The most subjective part of wet shaving is the blade. For blades I really suggest you start by buying a single pack of each brand and figure out which rand works best for your face and hair types. Gillette, Merkur, Derby and Israeli made blades are great to start with. I highly suggest waiting on the Feather blades until you gain more experience. They tend to be *cough* VERY unforgiving of student mistakes.
These suggestions should narrow down the choices for you and I hope you enjoy your journey into wet shaving!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Would you recommend the Merkur 34C safety razor?
“Hi, I am currently a disposable multi-blade user and am getting very frustrated at the high cost. I started looking for alternatives and quickly realised that there is a lot of recommendations to go back to the single blade safety razor. Having dug deeper it seems that the Merkur HD 34c is highly recommended. Would you also agree with this recommendation for someone who has used a multi-blade razor for years and also has sensitive skin?” asks Paul Neve, from the UK.
AARON SAYS
“Mr Neve,
The Merkur 34c is certainly a highly regarded razor, and for good reason. It’s weight, medium aggressiveness, and relative affordability make it one of the ideal razors to start your wet shaving journey on. I think you will find it to be a great tool and certainly a good razor. I use one myself! Another thing that will help you greatly is to purchase a blade sample pack. Blades are the most subjective part of learning wet shaving and the sampler will greatly help you find which is best for your hair and skin. We wish you the best of luck beginning your journey, feel free to get in contact again with any more questions!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: I keep cutting myself, am I using the right double edge razor blade?
“I bought a Parker 82R Super HeavyWeight Butterfly Open Safety Razor along with Feather Hi-Stainless Double Edged Razor Blades and to be completely honest have stopped using it after about 6 or more shaves due to the amount of cuts under neck and at corner of mouth. Am I using the correct blade? Why is this happening (I was so disappointed I now use a 150.00 Braun series 9 electric but would love to have carried on using a proper razor, and have always been a wet shaver since 16 so 24 yrs now,” asks Paul Ewing, from the UK.
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Ewing,
Thanks for your question! If you are relatively new to wet shaving I suspect the Feather blades are the culprit. The Parker is a good razor, but the Feathers are extremely sharp and have the reputation of being called “ninjas” on wetshaving forums because of their sharpness. They are great blades but can very unforgiving especially to the beginner. I suggest finding some other blades such as Derbys, Gillettes, or Israelis to use for now. Once you have more experience under your belt revisit the Feathers, they might become your favorite blade!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: How long or how many shaves will I get with a double edge razor blade?
“How long or how many shaves will I get with a double edge razor blade?” asks John Francisco, from the US.
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Fancisco, Well, this is may not be the answer you were looking for, but we’ll give it a shot! The general consensus is that you should be able to get three to five days per blade (or cartridge head for that matter). However, this depends greatly upon your home environment and how much humidity is in the air, how coarse or fine your hair is, the type of coating on the blade, and many more other factors. There are also many products out on the market that claim to extend blade life, most do NOT live up to the hype, but a few do actually work. All this to say I really can’t tell you exactly how long your double edge blade will last but 3-5 days is the average for most people. Smooth shaving! Aaron”
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Bluebeards Revenge Post-Shave Balm & Scimitar Razor Reviews
My New Year started off beautifully. I woke up suddenly around 9am, entangled with my loved one, and had the startling and somewhat shocking revelation that I was completely hangover-free. I hopped out of bed, had a cup of coffee and some toast, and set about deciding what my first shave of 2011 should look like.
Nick from The Shaving Shack had recently sent me a box containing the Bluebeards Revenge Scimitar double-edged razor and a tub of the Bluebeards Revenge post-shave balm. This, then, was the way to go. I knew a review needed to be written, a beard needed to be shaved, and… Well, it was time to get moving.
My initial impression of the razor was that it was similar in nature to most other higher-end modern razors (see Merkur as a fine example). It displays the Jolly Rodger skull-and-crossbones proudly on the top piece, echoing the “Bluebeard” pirate theme that runs throughout their product line. The fit and finish were absolutely perfect, and the heft and balance of the razor definitely felt great. Perhaps my only complaint - out of the box - was that the grip was a touch slick.
After a hot shower, I popped a fresh Japanese Feather blade in, lathered up with Truefitt & Hill’s Lavender cream (which has quickly become my standard go-to luxury shave cream) and set to work. The razor was just slightly more aggressive in feel than my trusty vintage Gillette Superspeed. I’d put it close to setting 4 or 5 on the Gillette Fatboy adjustable, though very smooth and forgiving at the same time. It made short work of my beard and left me feeling quite happy with the results in 3 standard passes.
I finished up with a thorough rinse and a shot of witch hazel, and then opened up the tub of balm. The consistency was quite thick, so I popped a finger in, grabbed a dollop, and rubbed it in quickly. The first thing I noticed about the balm was that it burned as though it was an aftershave splash, which of course screams “alcohol!” to me. I’m not normally a huge fan of alcohol in my balms - if I want it, I’ll use a splash. In this case, however, it works. I was a little surprised, to be honest, just how WELL it worked. The balm absorbed into the skin, leaving it feeling fresh and moisturized without even a hint of oil or shine. The scent of the balm was pleasant as well, a nice classic barbershop style, though it lingers much too long for my taste.
The Bluebeards Revenge offers a complete shaving range - Image by Shaving101.com
I continued to use the two items every day until this morning, and the only change in my technique has been a switch to Art of Shaving’s excellent lemon shave cream. The razor has completely knocked every other double-edge out of rotation. My Superspeed, Fat Boy, the uber-1970′s Krona, even my Merkur slant - they’re all sitting unused in my medicine cabinet. I’ve not touched the other shave balms I’ve accumulated over the last few years at all lately, and even with daily use for over a month I’m still not even 1/4 of my way through the tub of aftershave balm.
My only suggestion for a change is that Bluebeard should release a completely unscented version of the shave balm. Otherwise, I’m extremely impressed with both products and would heavily recommend them to anyone entering the wetshaving world.
Ask Aaron Q&A: Do you have any tips on how to get as close a shave as possible?
“Do you have any tips on how to get as close a shave as possible?” asks Simon Buckland.
AARON SAYS:
“Use quality products that give a smooth, slick shave. If you have not already done so switch to using a safety razor. A safety razor allows you to control the angle of the blade giving you as close a shave as you want. Shave in three passes; first going with the direction of hair growth, the next going across, and the last going against the direction of hair growth. This will give you the closest shave for an incredibly smooth feeling.”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
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