Ask Aaron Q/A: How to avoid white-heads & bumps
Jamie Hare, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, Thank you for this opportunity. Occasionally, I tend to get small white-heads/white bumps on the area below my nostrils/above my top lip. Do you know how to avoid this?”
AARON SAYS
“There are a number of things that could be causing the irritation and bumps you describe. I wouldn’t want to directly diagnose exactly what is going on, but let me offer some tips to help and alleviate the issue. Make sure that when you are finished shaving you clean this area well, rinsing with warm water first, then cold water. If you are shaving with a Safety Razor watch the angle of the blade, making sure it’s close to a 30 degree angle. If you are not shaving with a safety razor, I recommend switching over; the cartridge may be causing the irritation. In reducing the hair go with the direction of growth only, but if that is not close enough go across after that. See if these things help to alleviate the bumps and feel free to contact us again if you need more help!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron ”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Can you recommend me a fragrance free shaving cream?
Charlotte Tipping, from the UK, asks:
“Hiya, My fiance has asked for a shaving brush and cream as a gift. He asked for a fragrance free cream, and I was just wondering if you could recommend one as there are so many to choose from!”
AARON SAYS
“Ms Tipping, kudos to you for wanting to give this gift to your fiance! I think you’ll both be very pleased with the difference! These following products will probably have a clean, soapy smell to them but will have no-added fragrance. For fragrance free products try The Bluebeard’s Revenge; Taylor of Old Bond Street Sensitive skin and Jermyn Street formulas; The Art of Shaving unscented cream. These are just a few of the creams manufactured for sensitive that I think you both will be very happy with!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron ”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Can you recommend me a decent razor, shave cream & badger shaving brush?
Philip Morgan, from the UK, asks:
“I am thinking of starting to use a DE razor after a lifetime of overpriced Gillettes and not very good Azors. However, I am utterly bewildered by the choices on offer, from pre-shaves to post-shave products, especially brushes, razors, and blades. Re the razor I would like one razor, instead of several different razors for different levels of “aggression”. I have a beard that is quite tough in places, and currently have to shave against the grain to get a decent result - shaving with the grain leaves my face only half shaved. Any advice you can give me across the whole board of shaving products would be greatly appreciated.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Morgan,
Thank you very much for your question! As wet shaving becomes ever more popular the number of choices and options grows exponentially! Confusion is easy, and I hope to help with that. Regarding your razor choice, I highly suggest going with the Merkur Progress. It is one of the most popular adjustable razors on the market right now, and is well loved by anyone that I’ve talked to that has used it. Another thing that will greatly affect this end of your shave is the blade. Buying a blade sampler is a very good way to find out which blade works best for your skin and hair type.
Regarding a brush go with a badger hair brush around 20mm in diameter. This will give you the all around best general application brush that you can use for now, and you can choose the grade of hair (Pure, Best, Finest, Silver tip) that suits your budget.
Any of the other products are really kind of up to you. Many of the top brands have complete lines of products that go from pre-shave to post-shave with everything in between. My suggestion is to go with a well known brand such as Bluebeard’s Revenge, Art of Shaving, Geo. F. Trumper’s, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Truefitt & Hill, Proraso, Speick or another of many numerous others and pick the scent that you like the best. This will give you great products to use and in a scent that you will enjoy!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron ”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Turning razor blades around at periodic intervals
Gary Whittles, from the UK, asks:
“I enjoy double edge razor shaving, preferring the Israeli blades to the Derby blades. However, I have noticed that the Derby blades have numbers 1 and 2 o one side with 3 and 4 on the other. What is the significance of these numbers and should I be turning my blades around at periodic intervals.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Whittles,
I too have seen those numbers and wondered what they were there for. After doing some reading and exploring I eventually found that they have only to do with the manufacturing side of the process. Turning or flipping your blade does not increase it’s lifespan (although some will swear it does) or maintain its sharpness. Thanks very much for your question!
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: How do you achieve the best possible shave?
Darren Edwards, from the UK, asks:
“I recently enjoyed a professional wet shave and have decided to ditch the Gillette M3 Power razor and cheap foams for a decent shave. I’ve just bought a Wilkinson Sword DE razor from boots and some Men-U shaving cream, as well as some balms. What would YOUR recommendation be to achieve the best shave? I’m looking to get the Parker 89R.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Edwards,
We are so glad you’re taking the plunge into traditional shaving! I like to reduce getting a great shave into three easy steps: Prepare, Shave, Protect. Prepare your face for shaving by taking a shower beforehand and use a good face wash or scrub. Also once you step out of the shower apply a good pre-shave oil. Shave your face by using a good balanced razor, a sharp blade, and a good shaving cream applied with a brush (i.e. Bluebeard’s Revenge, Coates, Trumper’s etc.). Shave in three passes going with, across, and against the grain for a close smooth shave. Remember we are just reducing the beard, not trying to remove it, so just let the razor glide across your face, don’t bear down or put any pressure on it. Protect by rinsing your face first in warm water then cold water. Afterward apply a good after shave balm to help protect and keep your skin smooth and hydrated.
If you will follow this three easy steps you will have some of the best shaves ever in no time!.
Smooth shaving! Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Problems shaving under the nose
Christopher McClure, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve been using a double-edge safety razor for a couple of months and have largely mastered my morning shave. The one area where I still struggle to get a really close shave is under my nose. I shave in three passes, but everytime I try to shave against the grain, on the third pass, under my nose I end up cutting myself - do you have any advice? I’m using a Merkur 34C, Feather blades, King of Shaves oil and Shaving Shack soap.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. McClure,
The mustache is truly a hard area to shave and your problem is common to many men. Thank you for asking! From your list it seems you have great products behind your shave, so don’t change anything there. Because the nose gets in the way and it’s so hard to maintain a proper angle. If you could live with it, try going without the against the grain pass. If you want a closer shave try going across the grain again in the opposite direction. Another solution would be to go against the grain, just not with as full on an angle. If the direction South was with the direction of growth, and West/East is across, then try going Northeast and Northwest instead of fully north. Shaving in the slightly altered direction will provide a slicing motion as well going against the grain. This action is often called the “Gillette slide” and can be helpful along with other advanced shaving techniques such as “Blade buffing” and “J-hooking”.
Smooth shaving! Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Shaving Those Problem Areas
Graham Beattie, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I have a real problem in two areas. First, the corners of my mouth, if I don’t shave close enough it still feels stubly, but if I shave it smooth, I often end up bleeding. Second, my addams apple area, it doesn’t matter how many times I go over this, it still feels stubly. Any ideas?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Beattie,
These areas often cause problems for many men, so take heart you are not alone! What I suggest is stretching the skin to create a flatter surface. This will cause the hairs to strand more erect allowing them to be more easily cut. For the corners of your mouth, try opening your mouth in a very long “0″ shape. For your Adams Apple pull the skin away from the apple and shave on the side that you are pulling. Also, pay attention to the direction of hair growth. To get a closer shave to against the grain and that will also help the feeling of stubble.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Safety Razors - Closed Comb vs Open Comb
Sean Chawla-Duggan, from the UK, asks:
“Aaron, I have a very tough thick beard hair, and while when I do have the luxury of time I get a very good shave with a straight razor, I’d like to have a safety razor for mid week quickies. Should I use open or closed comb?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Chawla-Duggan,
Thank you for writing in! There is much debate surrounding the safety bar vs. open comb with strong opinions on both sides. Open comb razors do tend to be more aggressive and can give an easier shave for those of us with tougher beards. The shave also heavily depends on how sharp your blade is. If you like the look and feel of an open comb, go for it! There is a great open comb version of the Merkur HD which I highly recommend as well as the Muhle open comb.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Shaving Creams vs Shaving Soaps - Which are better?
Robert Ashford, from the UK, asks:
“Can you please advise on the pros/cons re: Shaving Cream vs. Shaving Soap. (Also the use of shaving creams/soaps in bowls). Can you use the wet brush against each, and not taint the product? I Currently use a shave cream from tube, but am intrigued by the likely hood of just building up a lather in the self provided cream/soap in a bowl. Thanks in advance.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Ashford,
Thanks for you question! On any shaving related forum on the internet you’ll find this discussion: “Which is better? Soaps or Creams?” In my opinion: neither. They both have equally great characteristics and will serve you well whatever you choose. Personally I use both and find great satisfaction with both types of products.
Pros: Soaps generally are considered to have a “slicker” shave due to certain ingredients such as tallow, lanolin, glycerin and bentonite clay that are added to the soap. This provides a smoother and gentler shave especially for heavy bearded gents. Creams have the reputation of being easier to begin learning on, easy to lather and have a more moisturizing feel after the shave is done.
Cons: Soaps generally take more time to learn how to lather well and can be sometimes a bit drying to the skin. Creams have the tendency to dry out a bit faster on your face and not provide as smooth a shave. (Caveat: there are ALWAYS exceptions!)
But which one to pick?? You will get a different experience out of both and both provide good shaves. Honestly I say use both, I do. If you find yourself leaning towards one product or the other you have my blessing! I don’t think you’ll go wrong with either.
Using cream or soap in the tub or container it comes in will not effect the shave, nor will dipping the brush into the container to gain product taint the product. The only exception to this I have heard is there is a possibility if some sort of bacteria is on your brush and you dip it into a cream that does not have any preservative in it that the bacteria could turn the cream. However, I have never had this happen to me, nor have I known anyone that this happened to. The thing about this I will say is that i recommend building your lather in a separate bowl from the one that contains your sap or cream. When you building the lather on top of product you are continuously using more product in the process and the time it will last will be a lot less costing you more money in the long run. For that reason alone I recommend a separate bowl, plus it’s easier to see you lather develope and know when it’s ready for shaving.
This is a bit long winded, but I hope it answers your questions!
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q&A: Finding the best double edge shaving products - Is it a case of trial and error?
Charles Singleton, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, it seems to me that double edge shaving is not as clear cut as shaving with my Mach 3! Now I have a wide choice different blades, razors, creams and brushes. Looking at reviews on websites and forums I get confused as to what to choose because when I find something that has a positive review I usually find an equally negative one! Is it just a case of trial and error as I can see this getting expensive?!”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Singleton,
Yes! I agree the many choices and options can be a bit overwhelming. If I can let me offer some products and advice to help get you on your way.
To start with get a good brush such as a Simpsons, Vulfix, Kent or Bluebeards Revenge. This paired with a good cream such as Bluebeards Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Proraso, Geo. F. Trumper’s and Truefitt & Hill will increase the quality of your shave a lot, even if you decide to keep going with your Mach 3. Should you take the plunge and go with a safety razor the Blue Beard’s Scimitar, Merkur HD, and the Parker 98 or 99R razors will be great ways to start. The most subjective part of wet shaving is the blade. For blades I really suggest you start by buying a single pack of each brand and figure out which rand works best for your face and hair types. Gillette, Merkur, Derby and Israeli made blades are great to start with. I highly suggest waiting on the Feather blades until you gain more experience. They tend to be *cough* VERY unforgiving of student mistakes.
These suggestions should narrow down the choices for you and I hope you enjoy your journey into wet shaving!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
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