Cut throat shaving - the complete guide by the London School of Shaving
Shave like 007
One of the oldest and manliest grooming traditions, the cut throat shave, has come steaming back into fashion over the past six months, thanks in no small part to James Bond and the latest 007 film Skyfall.
During a scene in the film, British actress Naomie Harris gives 007, played by Daniel Craig, a close shave using a cut throat razor, whispering in his ear “sometimes the old ways are the best” as she performs the shave.
We even attributed the latest James Bond movie for a whopping 405% increase in sales of both our cut throat razors and shavettes.
With this in mind we decided to enlist the help of expert London barber Ian Woodmansey, from the London School of Shaving, to ensure every guy was fully briefed on the art of cut throat shaving and had all the right tips and tricks to achieve a great straight/cut throat razor shave.
Words by Ian Woodmansey
Introduction to the London School of Shaving
The London School of Shaving (LSoS) was established in early 2012 to teach men who are new to cut throat razor shaving some of the secrets of shaving with an old-school straight razor. Following the success of the 007 movie Skyfall, in which Daniel Craig proves that Bond is the ultimate man when he shaves with a cutthroat, the School has become the ‘go-to’ place to learn the art of this most refined form of shaving. LSoS has taught men from all walks of life and from all over the world how to shave, from London barristers to New York cops. The School, which is based in West Hampstead, is going from strength to strength and has teamed up with The Shaving Shack to give you the opportunity to pose questions to the cut throat shaving experts.
Ian Woodmansey
The London School of Shaving was founded by Ian Woodmansey, who first experienced cut throat shaving on a beach in India 13 years ago. He loved the experience so much that he decided to teach himself how to shave, and has never looked back since. After teaching himself how to use a cut throat, Ian then taught various friends the art of the ‘real’ shave before setting up LSoS. The School is a completely unique business, believed to be the only cut throat razor school on the face of the planet. Ian is passionate about the art of cut throat shaving and sees it as the most modern way of shaving, a way to escape the throw-away culture and to contribute to a life surrounded by quality. He wants to see the cut throat razor reclaim its rightful place as the 21st century way to shave, and invites you to follow this page to experience the pleasure and satisfaction of shaving ‘properly’.
Basic how-to-shave
The secret of a great cut throat shave can be summed up in a few key ideas: prepare the beard well; use the correct equipment; stretch the skin well; keep the angle of the blade at a steady 30 degrees, and use a very light touch. If you follow these rules you won’t go far wrong - although they still take some practicing.
There are some minor complications, such as the chin and the area below the nose, but practice will soon make perfect. If possible, force yourself to shave with both your dominant and less dominant hand – although it feels uncomfortable and slightly odd to begin with, you will soon get used to shaving with the ‘wrong’ hand and it will make life significantly easier in the long run.
The preparation of the beard is key: the best advice is to shave after a shower when the stubble is good and soft. Before lathering up, apply some pre-shave oil and then use a shaving brush to apply a good quality shaving soap. Barbers who shave people all day every day spend at least a minute or two building up a great lather on the face with a shaving brush – they do this because they know that it will make the shave significantly easier. It’s worth investing in decent shaving soap or cream; cheap soaps will dry out quickly meaning you have to use twice as much. Ensuring the edge of your razor – whether a traditional cut throat or a shavette razor - is super sharp is also vital (this can be achieved by good maintenance through honing and stropping the edge of the blade).
Once you are ready to shave, concentrate on 3 key things: the angle of the blade, the lightness of your touch, and how you stretch the skin in front of the blade. The angle should not be more than 30 degrees from the skin, the touch should be extremely light, and the skin should be stretched to ensure that a ridge of skin does not build up in front of the blade, thereby causing a nick. You should shave with the grain first, then across the grain, and for an incredibly close shave, against the grain last. Usually the first one or two of these should be sufficient.
When you have finished, splash cold water on your face to close up your pores, use a block of alum to disinfect your face and close up any small nicks, and apply some post-shave moisturiser. I swear by E45, which is kind to even the most sensitive of skin.
Different types of cut throat razors (shavette, single blade, etc) and their pros and cons
When starting to shave with a cut throat you have two main choices when it comes to shaving equipment: an old school straight razor or a ‘shavette’ straight razor with replaceable blades.
Each have their pros and cons. The traditional cut throat razor, as used by your granddad, has a certain cachet, a certain authenticity. When people imagine shaving with a cut throat razor this is what they think of: a cold, solid piece of steel slicing through stubble. This is the way 007 shaves, and there is nothing quite like it. However, despite its undoubted cool quotient, the traditional straight razor requires some looking after. For some this is one of its attractions, for others it is definitely a downside. It is important to ensure the blade does not rust. It is necessary to realign and mildly sharpen the edge of the blade after each use by running it over a strop. Every once in a while it is necessary to hone (sharpen) the blade edge on a stone designed for that purpose. These are all skills that one can learn over time, but they are not things that feel immediately natural, and they do take some time to master. So, with a traditional cut throat the deal is style vs. upkeep. It’s a bit like having a 1958 silver-grey 2-seater convertible Mercedes: it looks fantastic and people will definitely watch as you go past, but it requires TLC to keep it on the road.
Manufacturers – including our friends at The Bluebeards Revenge - are also now making shavette razors, which are very much in the spirit of the old school straight razor, but without the necessary maintenance. Shavette razors are a similar shape to cut throat razors, but they have one key difference: they take a replaceable razor blade that can be slotted into the cutting edge. Some say they lack some of the cachet of the traditional straight razor, although that’s strictly a matter of personal taste. What is certain, though, is that they require less upkeep. There is no need to keep the edge of the blade sharp – if it gets blunt you simply slot in a new razor blade. This means there is no need for stropping or honing, and therefore no need for the various bits of equipment necessary to run an old school razor. If you have children they are also safer (although not completely safe) to have around the house; and if you travel by air you should be able to take them in hand luggage through customs, even if you have to purchase new razor blades at your destination.
Personally, I use both. I love the authentic feel of a traditional straight razor on my face, and find using one is a very pleasurable experience. I have various old school razors – mainly British and German - and tend to use them at the weekend or as a treat on a weekday. On other days, when time is of the essence I often use my shavette, which is convenient, quick and gives an excellent shave. Horses for Courses!
We would like to take this opportunity to thank Ian for his time to write these excellent words and would recommend his school to all our customers.
For more information on the London School of Shaving, click here.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Proraso Shaving Cream: Tub vs Tube
Aaron is asked a question from a DE newbie about Proraso shaving cream and whether it’s better to store the cream in it’s original tube or a tub
Oliver Kenny, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I am fairly new to shaving cream. I’ve been using an old safety razor I got from my Grandfather but I’ve just been using ordinary shaving gel with it. But now I bought a tube of Proraso from you. I have used a fair amount of it but was told putting it in a tub would make lathering easier. Would you recommend putting it in a tub? Another problem I have is that a barber friend gave me a 500ml tube as a birthday present along with an alum block and some razors. I am worried this is going to go out of date and hard before I use all of it and would putting it in a tub make that worse? As you can probably tell I am new to this whole DE safety razor game, and any advice would be hugely appreciated. Thanks, Oliver Kenny.”
Proraso Shaving Cream Tube (150ml)
AARON SAYS
“Mr Kenny,
If it were me, I would keep the Proraso cream in the original tube. It’s designed to be there and will retain it’s original composition that way, if you were t put it into a pot or tub, unless it was very air tight, it would begin to dry out. Now having it dry out on you would not affect the effectiveness of the product, just make it a little harder to use and lose some of it’s scent. All you need is about an almond sized squirt of cream to whip into some great lather. I have seen pictures of that 500ml tube, and it would take you years to finish it off! It should keep for quite a long time sealed in the pouch. I wouldn’t open it unless you plan on using the large tube or splitting it with some friends. As long as it stays air tight afterwords, it should keep well for quite some time! Enjoy it, Proraso is a great product!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
One of the more frequent questions we receive for the Ask Aaron articles is with shaving blemishes and problems affecting the skin. Many complain of razor burn, redness, irritation, bumps, ingrown hairs and many other maladies. These issues can make shaving difficult at best and painful at worst! Thankfully there are many solutions to these problems to offer relief!
Razor rash is a problem for many men around the world
First let us deal with what is the most frequent complaint, razor burn. Razor burn is usually a redness soreness, or inflammation of the skin. These conditions are cause by the blade scraping against the skin removing the top layers of epidermis. To ease the inflammation and burn, if possible, give your face several days rest from shaving. Apply a moisturizing after shave balm such as Proraso, The Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Men-U, Castle Forbes, and E-shave to aid in helping the skin to heal. Use as little pressure as possible while shaving. If you are shaving with a double-edge razor make sure the angle of the razor is around thirty degrees, and you keep your wrist locked using your whole arm for the movement instead.
Ingrown hairs are less common than razor burn, but the more painful affliction shavers complain about. With an ingrown hair the hair grows under the surface of the skin causing damage, spots, and sometimes infection. The human hair has the same hardness as copper wire of the same diameter, so no wonder it hurts as a freshly cut hair grows and digs under the skin! If you currently have ingrown hairs avoid shaving the area for a few days and use a gentle scrub to bring the hair up to the skin’s surface. You can also use an old, clean toothbrush to brush at the hair and pull it to the surface as well. Keep the area well moisturized with lotion or balm to aid the healing process. Another remedy is crushing and creating a simple paste out of an aspirin or vitamin C. Applying the paste to the affected area helps to apply the healing acids in the aspirin and vitamin C and gives some pain relief as well.
To prevent ingrown hairs avoid shaving against the direction of hair growth
To prevent ingrown hairs avoid shaving against the direction of hair growth, especially if your hair grows closely parallel to the surface of the skin. Also consider using a razor that has as few blades as possible to shave with. Modern cartridge razors work on the principal of the first blade pulling the first hair up, the following blades cutting the hair, and the cut hair settling back down under the surface of the skin. With the freshly cut and sharp hair this is an immediate setup for an ingrown hair, especially if you already have trouble with them or have very curly hair.
“Masking” or a discoloration of the shaved area of skin is a malady that can be caused by poor technique or product, too much pressure, an allergic reaction to a certain ingredient (lime and sandalwood essential oils, or preservatives being the most common irritants), or a variety of other common factors. As with other troubles examine razor angle and technique, use a healing ski food or balm, and if possible allow the skin to rest for several days before shaving again.
Dumping the multi-bladed cartridge razor and investing in a DE safety razor can help to improve the quality of a shave
If you use a multi-bladed cartridge razor and are experiencing these or other skin problems, try a transition to a double edge razor. Many of the men we have corresponded with experience an alleviation of symptoms after switching. If your symptoms persist after trying the solutions above or worsen consider a consultation with your doctor or dermatologist as there may be underlying issues that may need addressing. We hope that if you are experiencing some of the problems above that you can find some relief in this advice soon! As always we wish you smooth and happy shaving!
Ask Aaron Q/A: I’m struggling to get a decent shave from a DE razor - What am I doing wrong?
Aaron is asked a question from a DE newbie who is struggling to get a decent shave with his Edwin Jagger safety razor
Brendan Nichols, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve just bought my first DE saftey razor (EJ CHATSWOTH) and I have also invested in a Kent BK12 shaving brush to compliment it. I’ve been using my new razor now for 3 days but can’t seem to get a close shave like I did with a Mach 3 razor? I’m using feather blades with the razor but still can’t get a close shave (FEEL LIKE AN ELECTRIC SHAVE) and find myself going over the same parts 3 or 4 times, which for me is not good as I have very sensitive skin. As a result of this my skin has become blotchy and I’m already contemplating on giving up with DE shaving and going back to a Mach 3? I use good quality shaving cream (Geo f trumper) so I know its not this. I’m not sure if it’s just me being new to DE shaving and not getting my razor angle right? Not sure what to do I have spent a lot of money on my new razor but also dont want to irritate my skin any more. Do u have any suggestions please?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Nichols,
Well this is definitely not the start we want you to have to traditional shaving! You definitely have fine equipment to work with and I do not see that as a problem.
Try going back to the basics and making sure your technique is where it’s supposed to be. Are you creating a good thick lather that looks like meringue, is your razor angle around 30 degrees, lock your wrist and make the shaving motions with your arm, little to no pressure and other pieces of technique.
I also would consider switching the blade, Feathers can be harsh to a beginner and Derby’s, Astras, Personnas or Wilkinson-Sword blades may work better. Another thought, make sure the secondary plate (the one the blade rests on) isn’t upside down. It’s easy to do, even sometimes the more experienced ones of us (including myself here) have been known to do so.
Please reply back and let us know if this helps! We will do what we can to make sure your shaving experience is a smooth one!
Cheers,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Safety razor buying guide - How to choose the right DE safety razor
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to choosing the right double edge razor
Often the question asked by our customers after “How do I get started traditionally shaving?” comes “Which razor do I use?”. With so many varieties and choices on the market it is no doubt that the choices would be overwhelming. Three piece, two piece; adjustable versus non-adjustable; turn to open doors; chrome, satin, red, blue or black, ivory; aggressive versus mild shavers, no wonder it is confusing! Let’s shed some light on the essentials, how they will affect your shave, and some recommended models for you to try.
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
As you learn the technique of shaving with a double edge razor a milder shaving razor would be better than a more aggressive shaving razor. The milder razor would be more forgiving of poor technique or mistakes reducing the risk of nicks and cuts. This mildness or aggressiveness comes down to blade exposure: the lesser blade exposure the milder the shave and conversely the more blade exposed the more aggressive the shave. There are articles on shaving forums across the web identifying the exact blade gap measured in microns, but for our purposes here we won’t be that detailed. Typically those razors that are two or three pieces, and those that are non-adjustable are more mild. The noticeable exception to this rule is the Muhle R41, which despite being a three piece razor is one of the more aggressive shaving razors on the market.
The shape of your face and body is a thing to consider. If you have a smaller face, a razor with a large head such as the Merkur Vision or Futur would prove impractical to shave with. Also if you have large hands you might want to consider a razor with a longer handle. Razors such as the Merkur 38c Barberpole, Progress, 25c and 23c all either are or have long handled versions. Another point of consideration is grip and steadiness of hand. If you have concerns about being able to hold your razor, choose one with knurling (the criss-cross pattern cut into the metal), it will provide a rougher surface with less slippage.
The Goodfella Chrome Safety Razor
For our beginning shavers we recommend the Bluebeards Scimitar, Muhle R89, Merkur 38c barberpole, Edwin Jagger DE89 and Parker 94r. These razors all have good reputations within the shaving community, and have a lesser blade gap. As you progress in experience and technique the need to upgrade your razor or buy another may come. For the more experienced shaver we recommend the Merkur Progress, 37c Slant, Muhle R41, and Merkur Futur amoung others. These razors are aggressive in nature, or can adjust their blade gap from a mild exposure to a much wider gap. Another option would be the open comb razor. The comb allows for a closer exposure to the blade and the comb acts as a guide for the hair leading it directly to the blade. Gentlemen with hair that grows closely to the skin, or with tough beards seem to benefit best from an open comb such as the Merkur 23c, 15c, Fatip Piccolo, and Goodfella.
Whatever your needs are: shaving fine or coarse hair, thin or thick, knowing your face and knowing the right razor to suit your needs will go a long way in improving your grooming experience.
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