The ultimate guide to double edge shaving - DE shaving for beginners
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to double edge shaving
Here at Shaving Shack, our mailbox is flooded with gents often complaining, and rightly so, about the high costs of cartridges and asking advice about how to get started traditionally shaving. It is undisputable that shaving with a double edge razor is less expensive than using modern cartridges. Just a simple cost comparison shows that for the same price of a pack of 4 replacement cartridges, you can buy 50-100 double edge blades. We love hearing from you our loyal customers and would like to offer you some practical points on how to get started!
The first place to start would be the equipment: razor, blades, brush, soap/cream, and aftershave. It seems like a lot, but once you get these main purchases down they will last you for many years, decades, or life. As with many purchases start with what you can afford, and as you get used to traditional shaving explore and find which items suit your needs best.
Double Edge Safety Razors
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Your razor should be one with good reviews and from a reputable company such as Merkur, Muhle, Edwin Jagger, or The Bluebeards Revenge. I personally recommend The Bluebeards Scimitar, Merkur 34C, and Edwin Jagger DE89 as great beginner razors.
Shaving Soaps & Creams
The Bluebeards Revenge is one of the best shaving creams on the market
Soaps and creams can be found in a huge variety of scents and flavours. If you know your water type, creams tend to work better in hard water and soaps better in soft water. However, this is not a hard and fast rule, and good technique can overcome most water quality issues. Many of the most popular companies to produce soaps and creams are Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Cyril Salter, Mitchell’s Wool Fat, and Proraso amoung many others.
Double Edge Razor Blades
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience, but it is best to start with a good standard blade and as your technique improves, then find a blade that more suits your face. Some of the most popular blades are Derby, Feather, Personna, Shark, and Wilkinson-Sword.
Shaving Brushes
A shaving brush can improve the overall quality of a shave
An overwhelming variety of choices can be found for the shaving brush, with the hair type being the most obvious. Choices of boar bristle, badger hair, and a variety of synthetics are available on the market. If your convictions lead you to stay away from animal products, you are in luck as many advancements in recent years have led to great strides in synthetic fibers being able to function as natural hair. The Men-U brushes have received rave reviews in their ability to hold water and produce good lather. The Bluebeards Vanguard brush should also be a good bet to try as well. For a natural hair brush, boar bristle brushes tend to be less expensive, but perform well. The Semogue 830 and 1305 are quite popular, as is the Vulfix Grosvenor, and the Bluebeards Revenge Dubloon. The badger hair brush has been used for many many years, and is the most desirable. It has a superior water retaining quality, softness on the face, and a superior lathering ability. There are many to choose from and a few recommended would be the Bluebeard Privateer, the Kent BK4, Simpsons Duke, with Plisson being the cream of the crop. As mentioned above buy the best you can afford, the quality will reward you with a better feel, and longevity.
The Perfect Shaving Routine
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be a pleasure and not a chore
To perform the shave, first shower or hold a hot wet towel to the face; this softens the outer layer of hair allowing for an easier cut. Prepare the brush by soaking it in water, then gently shaking the majority of the water out. Gently press the tips of the brush into the cream or soap gathering enough material to shave with. Lather your soap in a bowl or on your face using a whipping motion and adding water as needed to create a thick lather that resembles whipped cream or meringue. Holding your razor against the face an an approximate 30 degree angle, shave with as little pressure as possible in the direction of hair growth. Remember to use short strokes and rinse the razor often. After you have completed the first pass, re-lather and shave across the direction of hair growth, then rinse the lather from your face. After rinsing apply your choice of aftershave, whether a balm or alcohol based splash.
Shaving Tips
A few tips as you improve your technique: keep your wrist locked and use a whole arm motion, a pre-shave oil will help those gents with tougher beards to retain moisture and provide glide, leaving 2-3 days between shaves gives the skin rest and leaves longer hair to shave. With these general gear guides and tips we hope you will have the information to choice your equipment well and have a fabulous shave!
If you have any questions for Aaron please submit them here.
Ultimate shaving guides
> Safety razor buying guide – How to choose the right DE safety razor
> Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
> How to care for a shaving brush – Top tips for maintaining your shaving brush
> An easy step-by-step method for getting the best lather out of shaving cream
Double edge shaving: Do you remember your first time?
Switching your shaving habits from a mass produced multi-bladed cartridge razor to a double edge safety razor is a great way of ensuring that proper, manly shave. But for many men around the world this can be a daunting move and something that is not taken lightly. But the rewards are great, as Steven Pearson, one of our customers, found out.
Here is his story:
Vividly, it was quite frankly horrible. I was a ridiculously moody teenager with more bum fluff than I, and it turns out most of my class mates, thought natural, so after skulking off home I decided to take matters into my own shaky hands. Armed with some shockingly blue old spice shaving gel stolen from my brother and also a clean razor from the brother’s stash, I wandered into the bathroom with much trepidation.
Steven Pearson applies some shaving cream with his shaving brush
What happened next is still difficult to describe, my non-washed or softened skin getting slavered with untold luminous chemicals, sliding across the grain, bleeding and, for the piece de resistance, a loud bang from the kitchen door as it is slammed shut after getting caught with the breeze that made me jump so high that I almost cut my chin off. In fact the scar was there for a good six months and was the starting point of any conversation that a female tried to have with me for the entire summer. That’s the best a man can get? - was it hell!
Over the next couple of years I tried various shapes, sizes and blade numbers with limited success until, as a poor broke student I stumbled across a double edged black, but yet again, double edged razor sold in Boots. It was amazing, still not at the level of doing anything vaguely helpful in the way of pre or post shave care but I learnt how to shave properly and with confidence for the entirety of my student life. That is until my first pay packet saw me running out to buy the latest, shiniest, many-bladed monstrosity that I ravaged my skin with for the next 18 years.
That was until recently, when again financial constraints and silent mouthing of “how much” in supermarket aisles drove me back to the same high street retailer where, sitting quietly and plainly, in the almost easily overlooked part of the shaving section stood my saviour.
Mass produced, made of plastic and badly made, of course - so badly that a quick once over with a blade and nail file to the flashed edges was necessary, was my Wilkinson sword classic, complete with blades - an absolute bargain! Home I rushed and quickly washed and prepared my face and drew the old friend across it, it was like a homecoming.
Steven Pearson shaves with a DE safety razor
A homecoming to that fateful first day and a blood loss of prestigious proportions as I attempted to remember how to shave properly! And yes over the next few days, and I am ashamed to say weeks, I relearnt the art of shaving. Not much has changed to be honest, early mornings are still a ridiculous time to get up, but the array of products available to Joe Bloggs has improved dramatically thanks to the advent of the Internet and the postal van of happiness that now drops off delights at my house regularly.
The feeling of delight when your face has its whiskers cleanly lopped off is still there and the clean shaven face that greets me with its big smile is more familiar than before, it seems to say: ”welcome to the billionaires boys club, we all shave like this”. Work seems a bit more impressed, with one of my colleagues commenting about how fresh faced I looked.
The good lady seems impressed too; comments about how she prefers to see me clean shaven have reduced as I’m always clean shaven now. Also the incidence of the European kiss hello, you know, the one where you get a kiss of the side of the face instead of square on the smackers has reduced dramatically. Long live the double edged razor and all who use her!
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