Wet shaving hints & tips for that smooth, close shave
As mentioned previously I don’t see myself as a wet-shaving expert. But like anyone learning a new skill or way of doing something I did make mistakes and learn from them. So here are simply some pointers which I found worked for me. Naturally, and you’ll see this said on all the shaving sites and forums, your-mileage-may-vary. What worked for me might not work for you, just try things out and see for yourself.
Don’t be stingy with your soap or cream. Particularly at the beginning I found it’s better to have leftover lather than poor quality lather through not using enough cream or soap. So keep swirling your brush on the soap for a full thirty seconds, try a dollop of cream larger than the recommended “almond-sized” amount. If using a stick of soap be generous as you rub it over your stubble, go against the grain so your bristles pick-up a good layer. You can always scale it back afterwards.
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Face-lathering is my preferred method of generating a good lather. I tried bowl-lathering and found I got airy, light lather that disappeared inside the brush and had to be squeezed out to be of any use. Swirling my brush on the soap or putting a dollop of cream inside the brush and then lathering directly to my face gave me better, faster and more consistent results.
When working out which blade works best for you try the same blade in different razors. I found this out when testing Crystal-brand blades. In my Lord razor with its Merkur-style head the blade was just average; decent results but not particularly smooth. In my Gillette slim adjustable razor it turned into the smoothest blade I’d tried up to that point.
Listen to your face. When I first got into shaving with a DE razor I was so pleased that I could shave across and against the grain of my stubble that I became obsessed with trying to get closer and closer. This just lead to redness and irritation. I now know that on my neck and my moustache going against the grain is just not possible. I’ve therefore not experienced that holy grail of wet-shavers, the BBS (babies’-bottom-smooth) shave. But that doesn’t matter, because I can still get close and comfortable shaves just going across the grain in those areas. Besides, I’ll have to do it all over again the next morning, so why risk the irritation.
Try different brushes. I started with boar, but found that a badger brush gave me better results and was more enjoyable. If you’ve only known boar, try badger, and vice-versa. You can always revert back to your original choice.
When I first got my badger brush it went through its initial shedding stage that most new brushes do, but then continued to lose a hair every-other shave. I was soaking it in the sink in the same hot water I used to heat-up my face cloth. I then read that some folk used warm water and only soaked their brushes up-to the base of the bristles, saying that submerging the brush in hot water loosened the glue used to hold the bristles in place. I tried this and found that it worked; my brush has now stopped losing a hair here and a hair there.
Take advice, read the reviews but go with what works for you. Many on the forums say that Feather blades are very sharp but quite a rough blade to use, I happen agree with this. Many also say though that Supermax-super-stainless blades (blue packaging) are very poor blades, I happen to disagree with this. Many say that a lack of bristle density in a brush is a bad thing. I happen to prefer a floppier, less densely-filled brush that splays on my face as I lather. Don’t be put off by what the majority think if what works for you is different.
More articles by Richard Wall
Wet shaving tips for men - How to get the best wet shave (Part 2)
If you have purchased a cut-throat or safety razor but are still not 100% when using it, then the following advice may be of some use to you. There may be a number of wet shaving techniques out there that experienced shavers will swear by, but the basic principles are still generally the same. A wet shave can be divided into; pre-shave, shave and post-shave.
Pre-shave
The key to an effective shave is to prepare well beforehand. Firstly, you will need to soften the bristles, opening up the pores of the skin. This can be achieved by having a hot bath or shower, but if you do not have the time, you can always make use of a warm or hot flannel. Preparing in this way will increase the chances of a painless shave. If you have particularly sensitive skin or a heavy beard, it may be worth purchasing pre-shave oil and lubricate your whiskers with just a small amount, before the next stage of the process.
Shave
You now need to lather and massage your choice of shaving cream or soap into your stubble or beard. You need to do this thoroughly, so it is best to invest in a decent shaving brush.
When you are ready to begin; slowly, and remembering to use short strokes, shave with the grain. By shaving in the same direction as the hair growth, especially when fairly new to wet shaving, you are minimising the chances of causing razor burn, redness and rashes on the skin. The neck area is particularly sensitive and should be treated with due care.
In the third and final article on this subject, to be published on Wednesday 5 May, we will take a look at some more techniques you can use when wet shaving, along with post-shave advice.
Missed part 1? Here it is > Simple shaving tips for the perfect wet shave (Part 1)
Simple shaving tips for the perfect wet shave (Part 1)
Firstly, you may be wondering: why wet shaving in the first place? As you are probably aware, there are many high-tech electric razors on the market these days, so this would seem like a fairly understandable question to pose. The answer is simple though. If you are looking for a more effective shave that also offers you better looking skin, then wet shaving is the ONLY option available for real men.
This means that you now need to pick a side between a manual wet shave, or opt for an electric razor. Electric razors may save you time, especially in this fast-paced world we live in, but for quality of shave (and with less irritation) there is no comparison. This is because the hot water will open up the pores of your skin allowing your facial muscles to relax. It also softens your whiskers for a more effective all-round shave.
If you have decided on wet shaving, then welcome to the club. You now need to choose a top quality razor with the sharpest blades. While using a razor, make sure you keep an eye on how the blade is performing as it will need to be replaced from time to time. This will ensure you always benefit from an even shave and less chance of irritation to your face and neck.
No matter what razor you use, and how long you have been shaving for, there are always ways to improve your shaving technique.
In the next article, to be published on Friday 30 April, we will be taking a look at some of these and offer advice on how to get the best out of your shave. So please check back.
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