Ask Aaron Q/A: How to avoid nicks & cuts when shaving with a DE safety razor
Les Edwards, from the UK, asks:
“I have been using Gillette razors most of my life, I have just brought and used for the first time a safety razor which I bought from Boots, to say it was a bloodbath is an understatement, it looked like a suicide bid in my bathroom, I am assuming I did something wrong! Please help!! On the bits that remained blood free, it was the closest shave ever.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Edwards,
I’m glad you have decided to take the plunge into safety razor shaving!
A few tips should bring you closer to shaving without such a bloodletting. First, shower before you shave, and once you get out apply a good pre-shave cream or oil.
Next use a good shaving cream that is applied with a brush or your hand, not canned, pressurized goo! Third, study the way your beard grows and shave with the direction of growth for a while. You will just want to go with the grain until you master the techniques, it might not be as close at first, but you will reap the benefits in the long run.
Next lock your wrist as your shave and keep the blade angle at approximately 30 degrees.
Fifth, rinse your razor often to prevent debris and lather clogging up the razor.
Lastly, after all this use a styptic pen on any cuts or nicks and apply a good post-shave balm or cream to sooth and tend to your freshly shaven face! Put these int practice and I’m sure your shaves will improve in no time!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How do I prevent bleeding on the lower neck?
Derrick Rutherford, from the UK, asks:
“I have just started DE shaving, using a Edwin Jagger DE razor with Derby blades, Proraso pre and post shave on all three passes as well as plenty water, Proraso shave cream, alum block and then Prorasso pre and post shave again and then Proraso after shave balm. I do two passes down with gravity and then one across ,the problem is I still get bleeding on the lower neck and red blotches as well. I only shave every two days because of this, but, I absolutely LOVE it and will not go back to Gillette cartridges, but, I want to shave daily as it is a real pleasure. I dont put too much pressure on the razor, I let the weight of it do the work, Please help, A convert.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Rutherford,
It’s hard to say exactly what might be going on but let’s see about a few things. Do make sure that your razor angle is good, especially on the neck. The proper angle, which depend on the razor, should be somewhere around 30 degrees. Keeping the angle is hard on the neck area so try locking your wrist and you shave and let your arm do the work. Another thing to check would be the blade. Derby blade work for many men but the might not be your best match. Do try several other blades seeing which best match your skin and hair type. The best way to this is to buy a blade sampler and work your way through the differing blades. Another thing I would check would be the direction of hair growth. Make sure you’re shaving with, then across, then against the direction or grain. If you follow those steps I think you’ll find much easier shaving and less irritation.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Preventing razor burn & razor bumps
Matt Herridge, from the UK, asks:
“Hi there, I’ve recently started shaving with a DE razor, I always get a very good close shave with no irritation, nicks or cuts even after shaving against the grain which I often have to do as I am in the British army, until the day after, that’s when I wake up with red bumps and very tender feeling skin especially under and on the front of my chin and my neck. My cheeks and top lip stay fine, any help would be greatly appreciated.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Herridge,
It sounds as if you’re getting some razor burn and bumps. I would suggest paying very close attention to your razor angle, and making sure it’s not too shallow on your face. Also, try some stretching techniques to flatten and smooth those areas. This should greatly help! Also, use a nice soothing aftershave balm to help calm the areas, and a lotion or moisturizer before bed.
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
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How to shave without getting razor bumps or ingrown hair
Razor bumps and ingrown hair is a problem faced by many men who wet shave. It can become irritating to keep on experiencing an adverse reaction from shaving, especially when you know that this method is ultimately giving you better results than any other method you have tried in the past.
A smooth shave
The best way to overcome the inflammatory reaction to the condition, pseudofolliculitis barbae or “barber’s itch” as it is commonly known is to look at ways to prevent and minimise the effect of ingrown hairs in the first place. Once these unsightly bumps are present on the face, it is easy to aggravate the situation and make it worse.
One easy solution may be to just let the hair grow, but this is not always practical, especially those professionals who need to keep their beard well groomed for their job. However, you could try shaving every other day to see if this improves the situation. Here are a few tips to help you counter this common issue.
Make sure that the razor blade is in optimum condition and not well worn as this can affect the effects of wet shaving on the skin. Try shaving with the grain, in downward strokes.
One lesser acknowledged fact ignored by many men who use a straight razor, is that a shaving brush can become a pivotal tool in wet shaving. If you wish to reduce the number of ingrown hairs on the face as well as the chances of getting any nicks or cuts, you should consider preparing using a shaving brush. This will help to lift the hairs effectively from the face.
The products you use before and after shaving can impact on this situation. Using a facial scrub before shaving can also help to raise the hairs from under the skin. The shaving soap can have an effect on skin irritation, so make sure you choose one accordingly, and ensure it is suitable for your unique skin type.
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