Ask Aaron Q/A: Beard shaping - Mach 3 Razor vs Double Edge Safety Razor
Aaron is asked a question about the best ways to shape a beard using a double edge safety razor
Saby Sambhi, from the UK, asks:
“Hey Aaron, I have recently graduated to a DE safety razor from a Gillette Mach 3. I have a Merkur 34c razor, Edwin Jagger super badger hair brush and Taylor of Old Bond street almond shaving cream.
So far the shaves have been amazingly close but I am having issues with shaping my beard. The razor works great shaving large areas such as my neck but I can’t see where I am shaving for the intricate areas due to the thickness of the cream and this is leading to shaping mistakes.
Can you please advise the best way to address this? Previously with my Mach3 I was able to to cover the areas requiring detail with a thin layer of soap allowing me to see where I am going and due to the relatively benign nature of the blades this provided adequate protection and lubrication but I feel a DE razor will be too aggressive for this approach?
Any help is greatly appreciated! Many thanks, Saby.”
A double edge razor is a great tool for shaping a beard
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Saby,
Actually the same approach you used with the Mach 3 you can apply with the Merkur. What I recommend (and I do myself) is to take your finger and gently wipe away the majority of the lather, leaving behind a thin layer. The thin layer will give you the protection and glide you are looking for and still give you good visibility! Another thought would be to use a shavette such as a Dovo or Bluebeard’s “cut-throat” to do the fine work. Both methods work equally well and should give you the results you are looking for!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How to prevent razor bumps for men who are African-Caribbean
Aaron is asked a question from an African-Caribbean man on the best ways to combat razor bumps
Osa Omo, from the UK, asks:
“As an African-Caribbean man who suffers from painful razor bumps caused by ingrowing hairs how often should I shave? Every day, every other day, once a week or perhaps once a month?”
Razor bumps are very painful
AARON SAYS
“Mr Omo,
I would have you shave as often you feel that your beard needs it. There is not hard and fast rule saying you have to shave every day or every other day. It is up to your face and your judgement on how it feels and when you should shave. I will say that for Afro-Caribbean men especially it helps to shave with a double edge or single edge razor. Shaving at the surface of the skin, as opposed to pulling the hair and releasing it under the skin as cartridge razors do, goes a very long way in preventing ingrown hair. So in final answer it is not how often that matters most, but what tools you use that will help you the most.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Preventing ingrown hairs on the cheek
Cos DiLuca, from the UK, asks:
“Since I’ve started using The Goodfella Chrome Safety Razor with Israeli Made Double Edged Razor Blades or Feather blades, together with Truefitt & Hill shaving creams or Taylor of Old Bond, I start getting in-hair growth on the cheeks. I’ve tried several things to prevent this, but none of them have worked. Can you suggest anything please?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr DiLuca,
Ingrown hairs are a common problem and can be quite painful. Try shaving only with and across the grain, and not against the grain. Against the grain cuts the hair the shortest and if you have curly hair or hair that grows very parallel to the skin’s surface this can cause the sharpened hair to grow underneath the surface. Also use a facial scrub to help bring the ingrown hairs to the surface and then a aftershave balm to keep the skin moisturized and soft. I hope this helps!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How to prevent ingrown hairs & razor bumps
James Chapman, from the UK, asks:
“For pretty much all of my life I have suffered from ingrowing hairs, razor rash and razor burn. I have originally twin blade razors, then Mach 3 and finally Fusion razors. My condition has got progressively worse, to the point where the razor burn has become both embarrassing and intrusive. I have tried a safety razor, for short spells, but again have suffered from razor burn, and so have returned to multi-blades. Any advice would be gratefully received.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Camp,
Ingrown hairs can be quite painful, let’s see what we can do to help. First off if you can tell that the ingrown hairs get worse as you move up in blade count, I think it’s safe to assume that you need as few blades as possible in your razor. My first question would be how long did you shave with the DE Razor? It takes a few weeks for your skin and technique to get used to shaving with a single blade. Use a good sharp blade, and dull blade or one that is not the right type for your skin and hair can increase problems with ingrown hair. Next is to use a good facial scrub to cleanse the face and reveal any ingrown hairs. Lastly use a good aftershave balm that will soften and moisturize your skin. You should find that these tips should help your irritations. Please let me know if I can help any more!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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How to get rid of razor bumps, razor burn & razor rash
Many men suffer from shaving related irritation. Whether it appears in the form of razor burn, bumps, rash, or red patchiness these symptoms are unsightly and definitely uncomfortable. Often these symptoms are just put up with as normal or even ignored.
However, there are some simple steps that can be followed for relief. If you follow these tips below you’ll find yourself feeling and looking better than ever.
¨ Use a good quality shaving cream that can be applied with a shaving brush such as The Bluebeards Revenge
¨ Before you shave prepare your skin. If at all possible shower beforehand but if that is not possible wash your skin with a gentle face wash or scrub.
¨ Once you step out of the shower or finish washing apply a small amount of pre-shave oil over the beard area. This will insure that your face and hair will continue to be hydrated before and during the shave.
¨ Use a good quality shaving cream that can be applied with a shaving brush such as The Bluebeards Revenge, Truefitt & Hill, Taylor of Old Bond Street or Geo. F. Trumpers. Specially formulated to be gentle to the skin and safe for the environment, these creams also contain no propellants that can actually dry out the skin and cause irritation.
¨ Very importantly use a clean sharp razor blade, if you use a dull blade it can lead to pulling, excessive pressure, irritation and razor burn!
¨ Last but certainly not least finish off with a good quality aftershave balm. The balm will nourish, protect and hydrate the skin keeping it safe from outside irritants plus reducing or eliminating any affects from the shave.
If nothing else remember these three easy words: Prepare, Shave, Protect. These three words can easily summarize the above steps and can lead to you that smooth, irritation free shave.
Aaron Wolfenbarger
The Shaving Shack’s Grooming Expert
Shaving-Shack.com
Ask Aaron Q/A: Oily skin and spots after shaving
Jason Hearne, from the UK, asks:
“I’m about to switch to DE shaving and have now set my heart on the Merkur HD as my first step away from 5 blade plastic monsters. My question though is about my skin type. At 30 I still suffer from oily teenage skin that’s prone to clogged pores and spots (if I don’t shave regularly). What I wanted to know was what is likely to be the best soap/cream for my shave and what balms you’d suggest to keep the grease away post shave? Here’s hoping you can help. :)”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Hearne,
The first thing I would suggest is to use a daily cleanser/face wash. This will help you to remove the excess oils that our skin can produce and also eliminate dirt, which can cause the acne and blackheads. Using a cleanser consistently will help PRE-shave. For the shave itself most available soaps and creams will do just, fine just avoid products containing lanolin. Lanolin can aggravate some skin types. For a POST-shave solution use a light balm (some being The Bluebeard’s Revenge, Taylor of Old Bond Street, and Proraso). You can also lighten a balm by keeping your face moist after rinsing and applying a small amount of the balm. This helps thin and spread the balm. I hope this helps!
Smooth Shaving (and skin!)
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: I Always Get A Red Neck After Shaving
Peter Ford, from the UK, asks:
“I use a Mekur safety razor with Gillette 7 o’clock blades and Cyril Salter cream, I always shower 1st and shave straight after using warm water. I always have to shave against the grain on the 2nd or 3rd lather to get even close to a close shave, but this is leaving me with permanent red neck and cheeks. Is there anything I can do or any pre or post shave products that will get rid of this?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Ford,
Thanks for your question! Before I recommend some post-shave products let me first say that using good prep is the first step in getting great shaving results. Be sure to use good technique and hold the razor at a proper angle. My first thought is that you might want to try a few different brands of blades, the 7′oclock may not be the best for you. If you have done this and have found that the this blade is good for you, use a replenishing aftershave balm. One that moisturizes and restores the face’s natural oils and helps to heal any nicks and cuts is ideal. The Bluebeards Revenge, Proraso and Taylor of Old Bond Street balms/balsams you will find on the Shaving Shack shop are all great choices for this. I hope this helps! If you continue to experience problems please write in again and we’ll revisit the issue!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How to Prevent Ingrown Hairs
Ahmet Kalem, from Denmark, asks:
“Hi Aaron, I am new in shaving with a safety razor and are very impressed of it. I have a little problem - ingrown hairs - can you give me a tip to prevent this problem. Thank you very much. Greetings from Denmark.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Kalem, Thank you for your question! You’ve already made a big leap in helping prevent ingrown hair by switching to a safety razor! If you are like most men your ingrown hairs occur on your neck. The first thing I would recommend is know which directions your hair grows on your face. Then be careful to not shave against the direction of growth. This might not provide quite as close a shave, but it is a big help in preventing ingrowns. Another thing is to make sure your skin is soft and moisturized by using a pre-shave oil or cream before shaving, and an after shave balm after shaving. If you still have some problems, crush a tablet of aspirin and mix it with a tiny bit of water to create a paste. Apply the paste to the affected area for a few minutes to help alleviate the systems. Also take an old toothbrush and massage the affected hair with it to help bring the hair to the surface. I hope these tips help you! Welcome to traditional shaving!
Shave well!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Preventing razor burn & razor bumps
Matt Herridge, from the UK, asks:
“Hi there, I’ve recently started shaving with a DE razor, I always get a very good close shave with no irritation, nicks or cuts even after shaving against the grain which I often have to do as I am in the British army, until the day after, that’s when I wake up with red bumps and very tender feeling skin especially under and on the front of my chin and my neck. My cheeks and top lip stay fine, any help would be greatly appreciated.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Herridge,
It sounds as if you’re getting some razor burn and bumps. I would suggest paying very close attention to your razor angle, and making sure it’s not too shallow on your face. Also, try some stretching techniques to flatten and smooth those areas. This should greatly help! Also, use a nice soothing aftershave balm to help calm the areas, and a lotion or moisturizer before bed.
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How to avoid white-heads & bumps
Jamie Hare, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, Thank you for this opportunity. Occasionally, I tend to get small white-heads/white bumps on the area below my nostrils/above my top lip. Do you know how to avoid this?”
AARON SAYS
“There are a number of things that could be causing the irritation and bumps you describe. I wouldn’t want to directly diagnose exactly what is going on, but let me offer some tips to help and alleviate the issue. Make sure that when you are finished shaving you clean this area well, rinsing with warm water first, then cold water. If you are shaving with a Safety Razor watch the angle of the blade, making sure it’s close to a 30 degree angle. If you are not shaving with a safety razor, I recommend switching over; the cartridge may be causing the irritation. In reducing the hair go with the direction of growth only, but if that is not close enough go across after that. See if these things help to alleviate the bumps and feel free to contact us again if you need more help!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron ”
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