How to shave properly with a double edge safety razor - Simple shaving techniques & tips
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be an enjoyable experience
So often the questions that come to us here at The Shaving Shack are from gents, and sometimes ladies, new to the wet shaving experience. They ask for information regarding a more luxurious way to take care of themselves, information on how to start wet shaving, however most often the questions revolve around improving their current shaving regimen. Bits and pieces of information have been shared in our Question and Answer section but we thought a more comprehensive review of technique was in order.
Grain direction
First we address the topic of shaving “with the grain”. Shaving “with the grain” means following the direction of hair growth with your razor. For instance, if the hair on your upper lip grows straight down towards your mouth you would shave towards your mouth from your nose to shave with the grain. The importance of following the direction of hair growth lies in the ease of cutting the hair. It causes less distress to the hair, hair follicle, and skin underneath while also offering the path of least resistance. Following this technique if your skin in prone to breaking out with spots or ingrown hairs is especially helpful.
Passes
Discussion of grain direction leads us into the next technique of reducing the beard by separate “passes”. Often you will see these passes referred to as “with the grain, across the grain, and against the grain.” Following the order of passes serves to reduce the hair in steps to get as close to the surface of the skin as possible. Going with the grain we discussed above. Shaving at a 90 degree angle, or perpendicular to the direction of growth will follow a path across the grain. Shaving in the reverse direction of growth goes against the grain. Often you see debate as to whether this last step is necessary, however most folks will find that shaving against the grain will top off their shave with the smoothest finish. If you find that your skin is sensitive, or you are new to wet shaving, leaving off this last pass until you are comfortable with the technique and blade angle is advisable.
A safety razor will give you a much close shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Blade angle
Speaking of blade angle, what is a good angle to hold one’s razor? The first caveat being if you are using a disposable cartridge razor, the angle of the blades is pre-set and you need not worry about it. However to those shaving with double edge razors such as The Bluebeards Revenge Scimitar, Merkur 37c, or other fine razors this matters a great deal. Too shallow an angle and you are not taking off as much beard as you can, too much and you end up scraping skin instead of cutting hair! Neither outcome is advisable! If measured out properly the angle comes out to somewhere close to 30 degrees. However different razors can have differently shaped heads and this angle can differ. The best way we have found is to hold the razor with the handle sticking out perpendicular to your face, and as you slide the razor gently down your face I sharpen the angle so the blade edge nears the hair. When you feel the blade edge begin to catch and cut the hair you have found the correct angle.
Pressure
Hand in hand with this is pressure. No one likes pressure at work, home, and especially when a razor sharp blade is against your face. Unless perhaps you’re 007! Using as little pressure as possible no matter your choice in the style of razor is best practice. Because of the hinge on most cartridge razors more pressure will be needed than for a double edge razor, however a light hand will still go a long ways. “What kind of pressure is too much or too little?” We hear you ask? Allow the razor to just set on your face with its natural weight and letting gravity draw it in the direction of your pass is the easiest gauge.
These basic techniques will help set your shaving for smooth success!
Another small piece of technical advice that will help you on your journey is to keep you arm straight, locking your wrist, and use the movement of your whole arm to control the razor. This will help you control angle, pressure, and prevent painful gouges. (Ouch!) These basic techniques will help set your shaving for smooth success! And smooth is what we are after, right? Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more in depth looks at wet shaving technique in articles to come.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Can you recommend me a safety razor & a shave cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Aaron is asked to recommend a safety razor and a shaving cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Luke Cressey, from the UK, asks:
“Hello again, I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, and was wondering what safety razor do you recommend that I try? I have never used a safety razor before but have a Bluebeards Revenge disposable blade cut-throat razor but never was quite sure what the correct angle is to use it and pressure. Does a safety razor do these for you already? I know there is some technique to it, and I know it takes time so I was wondering if you could please tell me which one you recommend and where do I go to find the info I need. I learn much better by watching than reading, especially when it comes to shaving. Thank you for taking the time to read this email it is much appreciated. Because I have a tough beard should I stay away from shaving creams that don’t lather directly on the face to safe the heat and moisture? Thanks again”
The Merkur 38C Barberpole is a heavy duty, long handled razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr Cressey,
I’m glad you are considering a safety razor! I understand your position, as I too have a tough beard and sensitive skin. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Muhle 89, the Bluebeard’s “scimitar”, the Edwin Jagger DE89, or the Merkur 38c “barberpole”. These are all great introductory razors. They do not set the angle for you, that is part of the technique you have to learn, but they are certainly more forgiving than a cut-throat or straight razor.
To answer your shaving cream question, I would stay away from canned foams and gels that use aerosols and other propellants. These contain large amounts of preservatives and chemicals that can dry out your skin and contain lots of air. I do recommend using a good cream or soap that using water to activate and can be used with a shaving brush (although many you can bring to a lather with just your hand too).
It sounds as if you might be a visual learner and to learn more by watching I highly recommend my friend Mantic59′s Youtube Channel. He has wonderful tutorials and does a great job explaining and demonstrating technique. Also look for videos by geofatboy, Lynn S. Abrams, and many others. The more you can watch the better idea you will have how to do it yourself.
This is quite the lengthy answer, I hope it gives you good information! Please contact us with any other questions you may have, and Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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