How to shave properly with a double edge safety razor - Simple shaving techniques & tips
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be an enjoyable experience
So often the questions that come to us here at The Shaving Shack are from gents, and sometimes ladies, new to the wet shaving experience. They ask for information regarding a more luxurious way to take care of themselves, information on how to start wet shaving, however most often the questions revolve around improving their current shaving regimen. Bits and pieces of information have been shared in our Question and Answer section but we thought a more comprehensive review of technique was in order.
Grain direction
First we address the topic of shaving “with the grain”. Shaving “with the grain” means following the direction of hair growth with your razor. For instance, if the hair on your upper lip grows straight down towards your mouth you would shave towards your mouth from your nose to shave with the grain. The importance of following the direction of hair growth lies in the ease of cutting the hair. It causes less distress to the hair, hair follicle, and skin underneath while also offering the path of least resistance. Following this technique if your skin in prone to breaking out with spots or ingrown hairs is especially helpful.
Passes
Discussion of grain direction leads us into the next technique of reducing the beard by separate “passes”. Often you will see these passes referred to as “with the grain, across the grain, and against the grain.” Following the order of passes serves to reduce the hair in steps to get as close to the surface of the skin as possible. Going with the grain we discussed above. Shaving at a 90 degree angle, or perpendicular to the direction of growth will follow a path across the grain. Shaving in the reverse direction of growth goes against the grain. Often you see debate as to whether this last step is necessary, however most folks will find that shaving against the grain will top off their shave with the smoothest finish. If you find that your skin is sensitive, or you are new to wet shaving, leaving off this last pass until you are comfortable with the technique and blade angle is advisable.
A safety razor will give you a much close shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Blade angle
Speaking of blade angle, what is a good angle to hold one’s razor? The first caveat being if you are using a disposable cartridge razor, the angle of the blades is pre-set and you need not worry about it. However to those shaving with double edge razors such as The Bluebeards Revenge Scimitar, Merkur 37c, or other fine razors this matters a great deal. Too shallow an angle and you are not taking off as much beard as you can, too much and you end up scraping skin instead of cutting hair! Neither outcome is advisable! If measured out properly the angle comes out to somewhere close to 30 degrees. However different razors can have differently shaped heads and this angle can differ. The best way we have found is to hold the razor with the handle sticking out perpendicular to your face, and as you slide the razor gently down your face I sharpen the angle so the blade edge nears the hair. When you feel the blade edge begin to catch and cut the hair you have found the correct angle.
Pressure
Hand in hand with this is pressure. No one likes pressure at work, home, and especially when a razor sharp blade is against your face. Unless perhaps you’re 007! Using as little pressure as possible no matter your choice in the style of razor is best practice. Because of the hinge on most cartridge razors more pressure will be needed than for a double edge razor, however a light hand will still go a long ways. “What kind of pressure is too much or too little?” We hear you ask? Allow the razor to just set on your face with its natural weight and letting gravity draw it in the direction of your pass is the easiest gauge.
These basic techniques will help set your shaving for smooth success!
Another small piece of technical advice that will help you on your journey is to keep you arm straight, locking your wrist, and use the movement of your whole arm to control the razor. This will help you control angle, pressure, and prevent painful gouges. (Ouch!) These basic techniques will help set your shaving for smooth success! And smooth is what we are after, right? Thanks for reading and stay tuned for more in depth looks at wet shaving technique in articles to come.
Bluebeards Revenge nominated for two FHM grooming awards
Two products stocked by The Shaving Shack have been shortlisted for coveted FHM male grooming awards.
The Bluebeards Revenge’s beard reducing shaving cream (100ml) is up for product of the year and the brand’s “Scimitar” double edge razor has been nominated for best razor.
The Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” Double Edge Razor
Both products were selected from hundreds of entries by a group of leading men’s grooming experts, the magazine said.
FHM is a mainstream men’s lifestyle magazine and because of this generally only shortlists products that are stocked in supermarkets or Boots.
This makes the Scimitar’s achievement even more impressive, and hopefully represents a change in attitudes in the wet shaving market. Many men we talk to are fed up to the back teeth with the rising cost of cartridge razor blades and the fact they give a pretty poor shave.
The ‘Scimitar’ is up against the Gilette Fusion ProGlide, Superdrug Triple Blade Razor and Wilkinson Sword Hydro 5 Power Select razor.
You can vote for our products online at: http://www.fhm.com/site/pages/grooming/voting.aspx
Bluebeards ‘Scimitar’ crowned world’s best razor by About.com readers
The Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” Double Edge Razor has been named the winner in the About.com 2012 Readers’ Choice Award for best wet shaving razor.
The iconic razor beat off competition from Gillette’s Fusion ProGlide and the Wilkinson Sword Hydro 5 to scoop the coveted first prize.
The Bluebeards Revenge “Scimitar” Double Edge Razor
Nick Gibbens, The Bluebeards Revenge’s PR and Marketing Manager, said: “We are truly honoured to win such a prestigious award. To beat the world’s biggest two shaving brands is a massive achievement and something we are extremely proud of.
“It’s also nice to see that people voted for a traditional single bladed safety razor over a multi-bladed cartridge system. Hopefully this shows that times are changing and men are turning their backs on expensive cartridge razors and investing in a shaving solution that provides a much closer shave and is cheaper in the long run.
“I would like to thank everyone who voted for us.”
The ‘Scimitar’ is a totally stunning, bespoke, German engineered double edged razor. It’s designed to cut through the manliest of stubble.
Meanwhile, The Bluebeards Revenge’s beard reducing shaving cream took second place in the best shaving cream category.
Now in its fifth year, the Readers’ Choice Awards honour the world’s best products, features and services across more than a dozen categories, ranging from technology to hobbies to parenting and men’s grooming, as selected by its readers.
In January, the site’s readers were asked to nominate their favourite shaving cream brands and aftershave products. After a nomination period that saw a flurry of activity, three finalists were chosen in each category. From February 18 through March 21, 2012, readers cast tens of thousands of votes every day via the About.com website.
Shack products shortlisted for two prestigious About.com men’s grooming awards
The Shaving Shack is celebrating after two of our luxury shaving products were shortlisted in the prestigious About.com Readers’ Choice Awards 2012.
The Bluebeards Revenge’s beard reducing shaving cream has been nominated in the best shave cream category, while the brand’s iconic ‘Scimitar’ double edge razor has made the best razor (wet shaving) category.
The Bluebeards Revenge scooped two awards in last year’s About.com Readers’ Choice Awards. The brand’s shaving cream was named runner-up in the best shave cream category, and its post shave balm took third sport for best aftershave balm.
The legendary Merkur 34C was voted the world’s best razor in the 2011 About.com Awards.
You can vote for The Bluebeards Revenge at http://menshair.about.com/b/2012/02/22/2012-readers-choice-awards-vote-now.htm. Voting will close on March 21, with the winners announced on March 30.
About.com’s popular reader-driven awards program highlights the best products, features, and services across a wide variety of topics.
Ask Aaron Q/A: A good alternative to the Merkur 34C
Mark Southern, from UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron. Hope you are well. I really want to purchase the Merkur 34c safety razor, but every online shop I visit seems to be out of stock. Can you please recommend me an alternative razor, something which is similar in terms of weight, feel, look, aggressiveness and price.
Thanks Mark.”
Edwin Jagger Double Edge Razor DE89L
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Southern,
With the growth of popularity of wet-shaving I’m not surprised to hear there is a shortage of the Merkur 34c! It’s a great razor, but with it being out of stock there are some good alternatives out there too. The Edwin Jagger DE89 series is a great competitor, and very similar is head shape, aggressiveness and price. Other good alternative razors are the Muhle R89, the Merkur 38c (the long handled cousin to the 34c), Bluebeard’s Revenge “Scimitar”, and the color handled Merkur “barber-pole” razors. These should all serve you very well and give you the same shave as the Merkur 34c. A great question, thank you!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Shaving under the nose
Steven Kirk, from the UK, asks:
“I have recently converted to de shaving. Having purchased a Merkur Futur I have been delighted with the results. However I am struggling to shave around the nostrils. Please do you have any suggestions for technique, or a smaller razor for this purpose?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Kirk,
Congratulations! You have purchased a great razor to use on your DE shaving adventure. It is a big razor, for which it has received some complaints, but I think the benefits definitely outweigh the disadvantages. Try pushing your nose out of the way as much as possible. Also, you might want to try shaving at a 90 degree angle to your lips (r to think of it another way, with the blade in line with your nose) and shave toward your ears. If you decide that it’s too much trouble and want to try a smaller razor for just that area, I recommend the Parker 97R, the Goodfella razor, or the Bluebeard’s Scimitar, or if you can find one a mustache razor. They all have slim profiles which would be good for shaving right under the nose.
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Bluebeards Revenge Post-Shave Balm & Scimitar Razor Reviews
My New Year started off beautifully. I woke up suddenly around 9am, entangled with my loved one, and had the startling and somewhat shocking revelation that I was completely hangover-free. I hopped out of bed, had a cup of coffee and some toast, and set about deciding what my first shave of 2011 should look like.
Nick from The Shaving Shack had recently sent me a box containing the Bluebeards Revenge Scimitar double-edged razor and a tub of the Bluebeards Revenge post-shave balm. This, then, was the way to go. I knew a review needed to be written, a beard needed to be shaved, and… Well, it was time to get moving.
My initial impression of the razor was that it was similar in nature to most other higher-end modern razors (see Merkur as a fine example). It displays the Jolly Rodger skull-and-crossbones proudly on the top piece, echoing the “Bluebeard” pirate theme that runs throughout their product line. The fit and finish were absolutely perfect, and the heft and balance of the razor definitely felt great. Perhaps my only complaint - out of the box - was that the grip was a touch slick.
After a hot shower, I popped a fresh Japanese Feather blade in, lathered up with Truefitt & Hill’s Lavender cream (which has quickly become my standard go-to luxury shave cream) and set to work. The razor was just slightly more aggressive in feel than my trusty vintage Gillette Superspeed. I’d put it close to setting 4 or 5 on the Gillette Fatboy adjustable, though very smooth and forgiving at the same time. It made short work of my beard and left me feeling quite happy with the results in 3 standard passes.
I finished up with a thorough rinse and a shot of witch hazel, and then opened up the tub of balm. The consistency was quite thick, so I popped a finger in, grabbed a dollop, and rubbed it in quickly. The first thing I noticed about the balm was that it burned as though it was an aftershave splash, which of course screams “alcohol!” to me. I’m not normally a huge fan of alcohol in my balms - if I want it, I’ll use a splash. In this case, however, it works. I was a little surprised, to be honest, just how WELL it worked. The balm absorbed into the skin, leaving it feeling fresh and moisturized without even a hint of oil or shine. The scent of the balm was pleasant as well, a nice classic barbershop style, though it lingers much too long for my taste.
The Bluebeards Revenge offers a complete shaving range - Image by Shaving101.com
I continued to use the two items every day until this morning, and the only change in my technique has been a switch to Art of Shaving’s excellent lemon shave cream. The razor has completely knocked every other double-edge out of rotation. My Superspeed, Fat Boy, the uber-1970′s Krona, even my Merkur slant - they’re all sitting unused in my medicine cabinet. I’ve not touched the other shave balms I’ve accumulated over the last few years at all lately, and even with daily use for over a month I’m still not even 1/4 of my way through the tub of aftershave balm.
My only suggestion for a change is that Bluebeard should release a completely unscented version of the shave balm. Otherwise, I’m extremely impressed with both products and would heavily recommend them to anyone entering the wetshaving world.
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