Ask Aaron Q/A: Beard shaping - Mach 3 Razor vs Double Edge Safety Razor
Aaron is asked a question about the best ways to shape a beard using a double edge safety razor
Saby Sambhi, from the UK, asks:
“Hey Aaron, I have recently graduated to a DE safety razor from a Gillette Mach 3. I have a Merkur 34c razor, Edwin Jagger super badger hair brush and Taylor of Old Bond street almond shaving cream.
So far the shaves have been amazingly close but I am having issues with shaping my beard. The razor works great shaving large areas such as my neck but I can’t see where I am shaving for the intricate areas due to the thickness of the cream and this is leading to shaping mistakes.
Can you please advise the best way to address this? Previously with my Mach3 I was able to to cover the areas requiring detail with a thin layer of soap allowing me to see where I am going and due to the relatively benign nature of the blades this provided adequate protection and lubrication but I feel a DE razor will be too aggressive for this approach?
Any help is greatly appreciated! Many thanks, Saby.”
A double edge razor is a great tool for shaping a beard
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Saby,
Actually the same approach you used with the Mach 3 you can apply with the Merkur. What I recommend (and I do myself) is to take your finger and gently wipe away the majority of the lather, leaving behind a thin layer. The thin layer will give you the protection and glide you are looking for and still give you good visibility! Another thought would be to use a shavette such as a Dovo or Bluebeard’s “cut-throat” to do the fine work. Both methods work equally well and should give you the results you are looking for!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: How to prevent razor bumps for men who are African-Caribbean
Aaron is asked a question from an African-Caribbean man on the best ways to combat razor bumps
Osa Omo, from the UK, asks:
“As an African-Caribbean man who suffers from painful razor bumps caused by ingrowing hairs how often should I shave? Every day, every other day, once a week or perhaps once a month?”
Razor bumps are very painful
AARON SAYS
“Mr Omo,
I would have you shave as often you feel that your beard needs it. There is not hard and fast rule saying you have to shave every day or every other day. It is up to your face and your judgement on how it feels and when you should shave. I will say that for Afro-Caribbean men especially it helps to shave with a double edge or single edge razor. Shaving at the surface of the skin, as opposed to pulling the hair and releasing it under the skin as cartridge razors do, goes a very long way in preventing ingrown hair. So in final answer it is not how often that matters most, but what tools you use that will help you the most.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: The best double edge razor blades for sensitive skin
Aaron is asked a question about the best double edge razor blades for guys with sensitive skin
Blair Valentine-Purnell, from the UK, asks:
“I recently got a double edge safety razor to help with my ingrowing hair problems and have had quite a bit of success- as long as I don’t leave it too long between shaves- but do suffer from a little bit of skin irritation afterwards. Are there any particular double edge razor blades that are better for sensitive skin?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Valentine-Purnell,
While not specifically designed for sensitive skin, there are razor blades that would be more suited for a sensitive face. Firstly, I would not recommend Feathers because they are extremely sharp and unforgiving for mistakes.
However, look for blades that have a Teflon coating, this tends to make a smoother shave. (keeping things smooth and sticky-free was what Teflon was designed for after all!). Try the Gillette, Astra, black label Israeli, and Lord super chrome blades.
If you can find them Polsilver blades are very smooth, however they are rumored to be out of production. These have all given me good success and good shaves. It will take some trial and error to find the right one for you.
Happy shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: The best sandalwood colognes
Aaron is asked a question about the best sandalwood colognes
Paul Johnson, from the UK, asks:
“Which sandalwood cologne is best - GF Trumper, DR Harris or Taylor of Old Bond Street? Also which brand does the best shaving cream and shaving soap? Thirdly, is skin food worth buying? Thank you.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Johnson,
I have to say, the following is my opinion but after trying products from these companies the Trumper Sandalwood is my favorite cologne. Taylor in my opinion has the best shaving cream, and D. R. Harris and GF Trumpers are tied for their soaps.
The Skin Food from Trumpers is top notch and a favorite aftershave of mine. The Sandalwood is excellent and many gents like the Coral as well. In all actuality I don’t think you could go wrong with any of these companies products, but this is how they rank for me.
Cheers and Smooth shaving! Aaron.”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: The Parker shavette vs The Bluebeards Revenge shavette
Aaron is asked a question about the best shavette razor, Parker or The Bluebeards Revenge
Jamie Townsend, from the UK, asks:
“Hey Aaron, I was just wondering if I should buy a Parker ‘cut throat’ shavette razor (34R, 33R & 31R) or The Bluebeards Revenge ‘cut throat’ shavette.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Townsend, Between the two, I prefer The Bluebeards Revenge “cut throat” shavette. The reason for this is the way the razor blade is held. The Bluebeards shavette holds the blade much firmer and more even than the Parker.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: The best ways to lather shaving soap in a hard water area
Aaron is asked a question about the best ways to lather a shaving soap in a hard water area
Austin Simmons, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Arron, I have recently begun to shave with a shavette and would like to try shaving soap as opposed to shaving cream. However, I live in a hard water area. Normal soap struggles to produce a lather. Will this be the same for shaving soap?”
The Shaving Shack sells a great selection of shaving soaps
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Simmons,
I understand the struggles of hard water, we too live in a hard water area and there are a couple techniques that can help. First pre-soak your soap, this helps load more product into the brush, then load your brush by holding the soap upside down and applying the brush upright into the soap. Also when loading your brush start out being fairly dry, not sopping wet with water. Lastly, I would face lather, building the lather into a thick creamy goodness.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Preventing ingrowing hairs around the chin
Aaron is asked a question about preventing ingrowing hairs around the chin
Marc Johnson, from the UK, asks:
“When I shave, I go with the grain and then across and the sometimes against afterwards. However, no matter which combination or sole direction I go I end up with ingrowing hairs around my chin. When the stubble starts to return the hair stays under the skin and creates a little white head until the hair has penetrated through. How can I prevent this?”
Finish your shave with a good moisturizing aftershave to keep the skin supple and heal any irritation
AARON SAYS
“Mr Johnson,
Ingrowns can be an embarrasing, terrible, problem especially in such a visible are as the chin. Let’s make sure your beard is fully prepped and the hairs are as soft as possible by showering or holding a hot towel on the face for a few minutes before shaving.
When you do shave your chin try to give the razor as flat a surface to rest on as possible by moving this skin with your opposite hand.
However, do not over stretch the skin as this can cause problems. (my hunch is that this is where things are going awry for you).
Finally finish your shave with a good moisturizing aftershave to keep the skin supple and heal any irritation.
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Would you recommend the Muhle R89 Grande?
Aaron answers a question about the Muhle R89 Grande Long Handled safety razor
Andrew Horwell, from the UK, asks:
“I have a Edwin Jagger DE89L razor and have recently aquired a Merkur Future razor cheap from a well know auction web site. I like the head of the EJ but I like the weight of the Merkur (the merkur head seems a little too bulky when shaving under the nose). For someone with sensitive skin, what razor could I look at that would be the best of both?. I have been looking at the Muhle R89 Grande, what do you think?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr Horwell,
Your comment of the head profile being hard to shave under the nose with is a common complaint with the Merkur Futur and Vision razors.
The Muhle R89 Grande is a good alternative and I would also suggest you look at the Merkur 38c and the Merkur Progress long handle razors.
The Progress is honestly my favorite and my daily go-to razor. It’s head has a slimmer profile than the Vision or Futur and I think you’ll find you have no problem shaving under your nose with it. Thanks for your question!!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Do double-edged safety razors provide a superior shaving experience?
Aaron answers a question about whether a DE safety razor offers a better shave than a cartridge razor
Benny Saelens, from Belgium, asks:
“Dear Aaron, I have been shaving for many years using a Gillette Mach 3 and for the last year on a regular basis with the Fusion. I would like to have a better shave but also a safe one. Would you advise me to swap a cartridge type razor to a DE safety razor, and if yes, which one? I have rather sensitive skin. Many thanks in advance for your appreciated advise, Benny.”
AARON SAYS
“Benny,
With a little attention and technique the DE razor is just as safe as the modern cartridge razor such as the Mach 3 and Fusion you mention. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Edwin Jagger DE86 or DE89, Parker 94R, or the Bluebeard’s Revenge Scimitar. These all are recommended for beginning shavers due to their mild blade exposure, which would be ideal for your sensitive skin. I think you will find the shave with a DE very rewarding and enjoyable.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Redness & rash around goatee after shaving
Aaron is asked to provide tips on how to reduce shaving rash around the goatee area after shaving
David Prest, from UK, asks:
“I have a goatee and when I shape it with my razor I end up with red areas and small red spots around the edges of the beard. I try to be very gentle with my razor (single blade) but still get the red areas and small red spots. What advice would you give me? Many thanks. David”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Prest,
I too have a goatee, and feel your concern over keeping it nicely shaped and having healthy skin around it. I would recommend making sure you are shaving with shaving cream applied, don’t shave without the lubrication it provides! Also you might want to look into using a shaving oil instead of the lather to be able to see more clearly and still have lubrication.
Also make sure you are properly preparing your beard area to shave, and properly restoring your skin with a good aftershave balm. Following these techniques will help improve your shave and your skin.
If you continue to have redness & bumps please write again and we will troubleshoot some more!
Cheers,
Aaron”
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