The Bluebeards Revenge straight razor project - Crafting the blade
Last month The Bluebeards Revenge announced to the world they would be embarking on an exciting new straight razor project. Not wanting to do anything by halves, the leading British male grooming brand have searched high and low for someone that possesses the quality of craftsmanship they feel a project like this fully deserves.
We first looked at the creation of the 192 layer razor billet – a mixture of both Shirogami (White Paper Steel) and 1.2842 (US 02) steel, which is an Hypereutectic Industrial Tool Steel. We then sat down with the company to discuss the development of the tang and shank.
This week we talked to The Bluebeards Revenge about the crafting of the blade. In this week’s post you can begin to see the shape of the blade, and although a long way from finishing, it’s great to see a bit of life and character being added.
With the tang formed, the bar is now cut into a suitable size. This could be done earlier in the process, but the Bladesmith finds forging easier with a longer piece of metal to hammer.
Here we see the creation of the ‘Point’ of the razor. There are many different ways the Bladesmith can fashion the toe, point and nose in the creation of this straight razor - Some familiar ones might be the French or Spanish point. As yet, the brand are still undecided on which one to use.
The blade is now heated to around 1100 celsius. For those following the posts on this project, you might have noticed that The Bluebeards Revenge started with a whopping 1400 degrees but they are slowly getting cooler as they go. Basically, the Bladesmith has pointed out, that when he is creating the razor, and it gets to the more intricate parts, he needs it cooler, as this is better to refine the steels grain structure.
The raw hide mallet moves steel without putting any dents or hammer marks into the flat surface . In this video we see the straightening of the spine and tang. This is the final touch before special heat treatment in the heat treat oven.
The razor is placed in a heat treat oven, the temperature is raised to 660 Celsius. Held at this temp for 30 minutes then allowed to cool slowly inside the heat treatment oven to room temp. This slow cooling anneals the steel and creates a spherical grain structure, important for machining the steel before hardening and stopping the blade warping.
“We’ve just received the next installment of videos and images from the Bladesmith, which have really excited us as they show the grinding of the blade (making it all shiny!). A lengthy and time consuming process, but ultimately the end results look stunning,” the brand told us.
Exciting stuff, and we will be reporting more on the development of the razor next week.
The Bluebeards Revenge straight razor project - Tang & Shank
Last month The Bluebeards Revenge announced to the world they would be embarking on an exciting new straight razor project. Not wanting to do anything by halves, the leading British male grooming brand have searched high and low for someone that possesses the quality of craftsmanship they feel a project like this fully deserves.
A few weeks ago we looked at the creation of the 192 layer razor billet - a mixture of both Shirogami (White Paper Steel) and 1.2842 (US 02) steel, which is an Hypereutectic Industrial Tool Steel. With the razor billet ready, The Bluebeards Revenge is now developing the razor’s tank and shank.
We recently sat down with the company to discuss this process in more detail.
In this video, we see the Bladesmith set out a groove for the razor. Basically, this is where the yellow blob is in the image below. This is also where the shoulder of the blade will go (if we go with a shoulder, we might look at shoulderless).
Here is a diagram The Bluebeards Revenge has produced of the different parts of a straight razor. If you search the web you’ll find these sorts of diagrams everywhere, but you might see different areas of the razor labelled differently.
Once the groove is made, it is then time to start on the tang and shank. Damascus is notoriously difficult to forge and can split easily, so a great deal of attention to detail is needed.
Here, we see the tang actually take shape. The hammer and anvil work is purely exquisite, and shows the attention to detail and craft needed to create something like a custom straight razor.
Further refinement of the tang is needed, and the process of using hammer on anvil is a long one. As it gets closer to finishing the shank and tang, the Bladesmith uses lighter blows to add the finishing touches.
Next week, we will hopefully have more on the forging of the blade.
“Please remember that everything at this point in time is in the development stage - so shape of the tang and shank could change in its final stage. We are merely trying to create the best possible razor, and we’re looking at every option as we go along,” The Bluebeards Revenge told us.
The Bluebeards Revenge straight razor project - The Billet
Last week The Bluebeards Revenge announced to the world they would be embarking on an exciting new straight razor project. Not wanting to do anything by halves, the leading British male grooming brand have searched high and low for someone that possesses the quality of craftsmanship they feel a project like this fully deserves.
They told The Shaving Shack: “Obviously, we’re rather excited at Bluebeards HQ about the prospect of this razor; a razor fully deserving of our branding. The process is a long but enjoyable one, and we hope you enjoy coming along for the ride with us.”
We sat down with the brand to look at the development of the razor billet and the different stages behind it.
1. Initial billet of 12 plates , 6 of white paper steel , 6 of 1:2842
White paper steel is also known as Shirogami, and descends from Japan. The steel itself is made from sand iron, and is the same sand iron that makes the legendary steel Tama-hagane. The steel is very pure, with hardly any alloys, and is very popular in Japan in the making of high-end kitchen knives. When hardened, it has a very fine grain structure.
1:2842 steel is the equivalent to the U2 02, a tool steel that has been around for years in the industry, and is known for it’s durability and good forging potential.
Over his many years in the industry, our master bladesmith has combined these two steels many times before. The plan with this damast is to then coat the blade with TiAIN (Titanium Aluminium Nitrate), which brings up a particularly nice pattern.
The overall feedback is that ‘Shirogami’ white paper steel and 1:2842 combined has a tough and aggressive cutting edge.
2. Heating in gas forge of initial block of 12 layers of steel
The gas forge is heated to around 1400 degrees.
3. 12 Layer forge welded together
4. 12 layers drawn out to make second welded billet
The forge welding process is conducted either on a hydraulic press or an air striking hammer - Check our Facebook/Instagram page for the videos.
5. Second forge weld 4 x 12 = 48 layers
The billet is then once again separated into 4, and the parts are stacked on top of each other. The process of stages 1 to 4 is repeated to create a 48 layered billet.
6. Heating in the gas forge for second forge weld
7. Second forge weld completed
If you look closely, you can even see where the two different steels are parallel to each other.
8. Drawing out of second weld
9. Third forge weld billet stacked ready for welding in forge
The billet now consists of 192 layers (12, 48, 192). Again, if you look closely, you can see the layers of the different steel.
10. Third forge weld heating up in gas forge
11. Length of 192 layers
To think, this will eventually be a straight razor.
12. 192 layer being drawn out for razor billet
13. Razor billet ready
14. 25mm wide 6mm thick 192 layers finished ready for next stage
Finally, the 192-layer razor billet is ready for the next stage. The craftsmanship that has gone in to just creating the billet at this point is 6 hours - Blood, sweat and tears have gone into getting it ready for the next stage of creating the blade.
Hopefully next week we’ll be able to bring you more details on the creation of the blade itself.
The Ultimate Straight Razor For Real Men?
Starting with just a shaving cream three years ago, The Bluebeards Revenge has always been on the quest to deliver the finest shaving equipment and products. From their love and industry background, they have always wanted to develop their our own straight razor. A premium razor which didn’t compromise on quality and a keen eye to detail. A razor which finally meets the needs of the under supplied and overly demanded straight razor market.
We recently spoke to David Hildrew, Bluebeard-in-Chief, about his hopes, aims and expectations for the project.
Heating in the gas forge to around 1200 degrees
And this is what he said:
“When I laid the foundations for The Bluebeards Revenge brand I was absolutely determined to ensure that we stood out from the crowd. Up to now our packaging, approach to market and products have succeeded in achieving just that and I am really very proud of what we have achieved so far. Our brand is innovative, market leading and totally fearless and now is the time to embark on another challenge and to create The Ultimate Straight Razor For Real Men!
Join us on our quest to create the finest of all shaving instruments – I have convinced a personal friend and one of the world’s finest bladesmiths to work with us on this project. A man whose blades are renowned throughout the international Special Forces fraternity and upon whose work I once relied upon to produce a combat knife tough enough to tackle any challenge – one that literally could mean the difference between life and death! Between us we are fully committed to producing a thing of awesome beauty and infinite functionality.
The prototype phase is well under way and over the next few weeks we will be bringing you constant updates, technical briefings and a visual insight into how the razor is developing. Suffice to say that we are using the finest of materials – the blade is being crafted by hand in Damascus steel – but also skills that have been developed over millennia and now reside in the hands of a very few men.
You are most welcome to join us on this grand adventure. Here is your opportunity to become involved in the development of what we hope will be an amazing shaving instrument, one that any man will be proud to own and to pass onto his son or grandchild. Feel free to ask questions, offer input and guidance. In due course we will be running a competition to name the finished article with a handsome prize to the successful entry. Please be prepared to be patient and indulge us with some forbearance – this is an honest attempt to take the straight razor into uncharted territory and it is bound to face challenges and obstacles along the way.”
We will be publishing regular articles on the progress of this project, so please bookmark us and follow the journey.
Ask Aaron Q/A: The Parker shavette vs The Bluebeards Revenge shavette
Aaron is asked a question about the best shavette razor, Parker or The Bluebeards Revenge
Jamie Townsend, from the UK, asks:
“Hey Aaron, I was just wondering if I should buy a Parker ‘cut throat’ shavette razor (34R, 33R & 31R) or The Bluebeards Revenge ‘cut throat’ shavette.”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Townsend, Between the two, I prefer The Bluebeards Revenge “cut throat” shavette. The reason for this is the way the razor blade is held. The Bluebeards shavette holds the blade much firmer and more even than the Parker.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Introducing the world’s most luxurious razor: Boker Limited Edition 5/8 Damascus Stainless Steel Open Razor
The Shaving Shack is delighted to announce the safe arrival of the truly stunning Böker Limited Edition 5/8 Damascus Stainless Steel Open Razor.
This limited edition razor really is the height of shaving luxury and it opens up a new chapter in Boker’s 100 year old history. For the first time, Boker have applied Damascus stainless steel that has been manufactured by powder-metallurgical processing for the production of the blade.
Using a technically complex and highly sophisticated procedure, 180 layers of Damascus steel are manufactured in a special sintering process in order to obtain a perfect basic material for the refined hand grinding of the blades.
The traditional hollow ground beautifully emphasizes the attractive grain of the natural Damascus pattern. The elegantly dark shimmering Damascus blade harmonizes in an outstanding manner with the original Böker razor handle scales from the 1930s.
These are made of a special synthetic material with an ivory pattern, providing an extremely high level of flexibility and water resistance. Finally, the scales have been skillfully adorned with the traditional Böker tree logo.
This new Böker Damascus razor is entirely manufactured by hand in 170 production steps in the Böker Knife Manufactory in Solingen. It is strictly limited to 500 pieces worldwide.
Delivered in an exclusive wooden collector’s box with a certificate of authenticity. Blade size: 5/8“. This razor comes with a hefty price tag, but it’s worth every penny. Buy it today online from The Shaving Shack for £579.99. Go on treat yourself to the world’s most luxurious razor, you won’t regret it.
Cut throat shaving - the complete guide by the London School of Shaving
Shave like 007
One of the oldest and manliest grooming traditions, the cut throat shave, has come steaming back into fashion over the past six months, thanks in no small part to James Bond and the latest 007 film Skyfall.
During a scene in the film, British actress Naomie Harris gives 007, played by Daniel Craig, a close shave using a cut throat razor, whispering in his ear “sometimes the old ways are the best” as she performs the shave.
We even attributed the latest James Bond movie for a whopping 405% increase in sales of both our cut throat razors and shavettes.
With this in mind we decided to enlist the help of expert London barber Ian Woodmansey, from the London School of Shaving, to ensure every guy was fully briefed on the art of cut throat shaving and had all the right tips and tricks to achieve a great straight/cut throat razor shave.
Words by Ian Woodmansey
Introduction to the London School of Shaving
The London School of Shaving (LSoS) was established in early 2012 to teach men who are new to cut throat razor shaving some of the secrets of shaving with an old-school straight razor. Following the success of the 007 movie Skyfall, in which Daniel Craig proves that Bond is the ultimate man when he shaves with a cutthroat, the School has become the ‘go-to’ place to learn the art of this most refined form of shaving. LSoS has taught men from all walks of life and from all over the world how to shave, from London barristers to New York cops. The School, which is based in West Hampstead, is going from strength to strength and has teamed up with The Shaving Shack to give you the opportunity to pose questions to the cut throat shaving experts.
Ian Woodmansey
The London School of Shaving was founded by Ian Woodmansey, who first experienced cut throat shaving on a beach in India 13 years ago. He loved the experience so much that he decided to teach himself how to shave, and has never looked back since. After teaching himself how to use a cut throat, Ian then taught various friends the art of the ‘real’ shave before setting up LSoS. The School is a completely unique business, believed to be the only cut throat razor school on the face of the planet. Ian is passionate about the art of cut throat shaving and sees it as the most modern way of shaving, a way to escape the throw-away culture and to contribute to a life surrounded by quality. He wants to see the cut throat razor reclaim its rightful place as the 21st century way to shave, and invites you to follow this page to experience the pleasure and satisfaction of shaving ‘properly’.
Basic how-to-shave
The secret of a great cut throat shave can be summed up in a few key ideas: prepare the beard well; use the correct equipment; stretch the skin well; keep the angle of the blade at a steady 30 degrees, and use a very light touch. If you follow these rules you won’t go far wrong - although they still take some practicing.
There are some minor complications, such as the chin and the area below the nose, but practice will soon make perfect. If possible, force yourself to shave with both your dominant and less dominant hand – although it feels uncomfortable and slightly odd to begin with, you will soon get used to shaving with the ‘wrong’ hand and it will make life significantly easier in the long run.
The preparation of the beard is key: the best advice is to shave after a shower when the stubble is good and soft. Before lathering up, apply some pre-shave oil and then use a shaving brush to apply a good quality shaving soap. Barbers who shave people all day every day spend at least a minute or two building up a great lather on the face with a shaving brush – they do this because they know that it will make the shave significantly easier. It’s worth investing in decent shaving soap or cream; cheap soaps will dry out quickly meaning you have to use twice as much. Ensuring the edge of your razor – whether a traditional cut throat or a shavette razor - is super sharp is also vital (this can be achieved by good maintenance through honing and stropping the edge of the blade).
Once you are ready to shave, concentrate on 3 key things: the angle of the blade, the lightness of your touch, and how you stretch the skin in front of the blade. The angle should not be more than 30 degrees from the skin, the touch should be extremely light, and the skin should be stretched to ensure that a ridge of skin does not build up in front of the blade, thereby causing a nick. You should shave with the grain first, then across the grain, and for an incredibly close shave, against the grain last. Usually the first one or two of these should be sufficient.
When you have finished, splash cold water on your face to close up your pores, use a block of alum to disinfect your face and close up any small nicks, and apply some post-shave moisturiser. I swear by E45, which is kind to even the most sensitive of skin.
Different types of cut throat razors (shavette, single blade, etc) and their pros and cons
When starting to shave with a cut throat you have two main choices when it comes to shaving equipment: an old school straight razor or a ‘shavette’ straight razor with replaceable blades.
Each have their pros and cons. The traditional cut throat razor, as used by your granddad, has a certain cachet, a certain authenticity. When people imagine shaving with a cut throat razor this is what they think of: a cold, solid piece of steel slicing through stubble. This is the way 007 shaves, and there is nothing quite like it. However, despite its undoubted cool quotient, the traditional straight razor requires some looking after. For some this is one of its attractions, for others it is definitely a downside. It is important to ensure the blade does not rust. It is necessary to realign and mildly sharpen the edge of the blade after each use by running it over a strop. Every once in a while it is necessary to hone (sharpen) the blade edge on a stone designed for that purpose. These are all skills that one can learn over time, but they are not things that feel immediately natural, and they do take some time to master. So, with a traditional cut throat the deal is style vs. upkeep. It’s a bit like having a 1958 silver-grey 2-seater convertible Mercedes: it looks fantastic and people will definitely watch as you go past, but it requires TLC to keep it on the road.
Manufacturers – including our friends at The Bluebeards Revenge - are also now making shavette razors, which are very much in the spirit of the old school straight razor, but without the necessary maintenance. Shavette razors are a similar shape to cut throat razors, but they have one key difference: they take a replaceable razor blade that can be slotted into the cutting edge. Some say they lack some of the cachet of the traditional straight razor, although that’s strictly a matter of personal taste. What is certain, though, is that they require less upkeep. There is no need to keep the edge of the blade sharp – if it gets blunt you simply slot in a new razor blade. This means there is no need for stropping or honing, and therefore no need for the various bits of equipment necessary to run an old school razor. If you have children they are also safer (although not completely safe) to have around the house; and if you travel by air you should be able to take them in hand luggage through customs, even if you have to purchase new razor blades at your destination.
Personally, I use both. I love the authentic feel of a traditional straight razor on my face, and find using one is a very pleasurable experience. I have various old school razors – mainly British and German - and tend to use them at the weekend or as a treat on a weekday. On other days, when time is of the essence I often use my shavette, which is convenient, quick and gives an excellent shave. Horses for Courses!
We would like to take this opportunity to thank Ian for his time to write these excellent words and would recommend his school to all our customers.
For more information on the London School of Shaving, click here.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Straight razor maintenance - Honing & Stropping
Aaron is asked a question about honing and stropping a straight/cut throat razor
James Allen, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, my face is on fire and I have about 5 cuts as well. I am new to shaving with a straight razor and have tried to hone and strop the blade myself. I used a 800 grit stone, then onto an 8000+ slate stone, then strop. The blade will pop hairs from my arm but when I try to shave with it, it just isn’t sharp enough. Please tell me where I’m going wrong? (had to abandon my shave 3/4′s of the way through to) very painfull.”
Honing and sharpening your own straight razor is a fine art
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Allen,
Honing and sharpening your own straight razor is a fine art. From what I have read, you need even finer grit honing stones to continue your process.
I definitely recommend taking your razor to your local barber, or finding a honing specialist in the UK through one of the many online shaving forums (straightrazorplace.com, badgerandblade.com, and shavenook.com are the most popular). Many gentlemen there will be able to hone your razor, and give you tips and tricks on how to learn to hone it yourself.
Also you can find great information on stropping your blade (rolling the edges will defeat all your honing work!) and shaving technique. Good luck with your new shaving venture, and I wish you the very best!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
James Bond Skyfall film inspires psoriasis sufferer to dump multi-bladed cartridge razor & embrace cut throat shaving
For many men around the world shaving can be a very painful daily activity, and something that is a regarded as a chore and not the pleasure it should be.
Psoriasis sufferer Neil Jary was a guy you could put into this category, but fortunately for him after watching the latest James Bond film Skyfall he decided to dump his multi-bladed cartridge razor and instead opt for a cut throat shavette.
During a scene in Skyfall, British actress Naomie Harris gives 007, played by Daniel Craig, a close shave using a cut throat razor, whispering in his ear “sometimes the old ways are the best” as she performs the shave.
Neil works the shaving cream into his beard
Here is Neil’s story/journey:
“I have psoriasis and as such shaving became a chore. I would shave maybe once or twice a week when my partner hinted I was too stubbly by calling me “spike”!
I’ve been looking at straight razors for ages and the scene in Skyfall finally got my curiosity hooked and I quickly found The Shaving Shack! I’ve been a multi-bladed cartridge razor user since I started shaving; was it really the best a man can get? Surely if anyone knew best it was Bond!
Neil gets to work on the shave
One purchase of a shavette later (I didn’t think I would justify a full blown cut throat to begin with!) and I was eager to get going. My first attempt was fumbling to say the least but the closeness of the shave and lack of irritation proved to me that it might be worth carrying on and investing time and money to move forwards!
And to be honest it was thrilling to do! Nerve tingling and scary but thrilling none the less!
A few more purchases of some quality shaving cream, some pre shave oil and an alum block have followed and my second shave; after only two days (an almost unheard of short time span for shaving with my cartridge razor) proved to be even more successful! One very minor nick and the closest shave I’ve had in years!
Neil enjoys a close shave with his shavette razor
It actually feels like I’m pampering myself! Not something I’m used to being a born and bred rugged outdoors type of guy!! But it genuinely is a pleasure! I’ve yet to try the pre shave oil, but I’m actually looking forwards to the shave! I actually want my stubble to grow faster so I can “treat” myself again!
All in all a shocking discovery but one I’m happy to indulge in! It takes time, patience, and skill and focus! All things that make this method of shaving a pleasure! It’s something a man can master; a technique to learn and hone until it’s perfect! A man likes to have skills to practice and shaving with a straight razor is amongst the very greatest to learn I can now see!
So thanks to 007 James Bond and The Shaving Shack for getting me on the right path….now if only I can persuade the missus into some Miss Moneypenny role play I’ll be laughing!”
Looking good Neil
Do you have a wet shaving story to tell the world? If you would like see your article posted on The Shaving Shack Blog, email [email protected].
Learn to shave like Bond, James Bond - Bluebeards launches cut throat razor shaving guide
Bluebeards release 007 inspired cut throat shaving video because ‘sometimes the old ways are the best’
Following a surge in cut throat razor sales with the release of new James Bond film, Skyfall, leading men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge have released a handy how-to film to ensure their customers know how to get the best out of their cut throat shave.
The short film, which has been made in collaboration with Jacks of London, is, of course, spy inspired by the film, and is full of top tips for the customer to achieve the correct technique when using their shiny new cut throat shavette razor.
On the film’s cinema release, which included a saucy shaving scene with actors Daniel Craig and Naomie Harris, The Bluebeards Revenge saw their cut throat style razor sales surge ten-fold. The scene saw 007 receive a close shave using a cut throat razor with Harris uttering the words; ‘sometimes the old ways are the best.’
Shaving with a cut throat razor is certainly one of life’s pleasures as it will give you the closest possible shave. But it does take time to master the technique and you’ll certainly need a steady hand and plenty of practice.
The Bluebeards Revenge wants to ensure the customer really gets the best out of their buy so have put the film together to teach men how to get the best shave and women, how to give the best shave.
The handy shavette razor is similar to a straight or cut throat razor but is a more cost effective alternative and requires less maintenance as it uses changeable blades, meaning no stropping or honing. It can save time for those who are in a hurry, but still want to experience the luxury of a wet shave.
The Bluebeards Revenge crew visited Jacks of London’s upmarket Guilford barbershop to film the clip and resident Barber Sandra Morgan showcases her skills and talks you through the key elements and process involved when guaranteeing a great shave.
These include the correct way to prepare your face for a cut throat/shavette shave, holding the razor in the correct way, shaving in the right direction and after care for your skin when the shave is complete.
Justin Bullock, Marketing Manager for The Bluebeards Revenge, said: “We’ve had lots of customers wanting to ‘get a razor like Bond’ – it’s opened up the idea of cut-throat shaving to a whole new group of guys.
“Hopefully our cut throat shaving video will not only entertain, but it will also ensure men all around the world are clean shaven, and not stirred.”
Youtube video link
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