Ask Aaron Q/A: Differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Aaron is asked a question about the differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Darren Collins, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, I’ve always used cartridge razors (5 blade Wilkinson Sword at the moment)…Is there much difference between a cut throat or safety razor and the system I use now? How easy is it to shave “properly”? Can you please recommend me a good quality razor (I have sensitive skin)?”
A safety razor like the Merkur Futur 761 Safety Razor will offer a far smoother shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Collins,
I believe there to be a significant difference and improvement switching from a multi-blade cartridge system to a cut-throat or safety razor. The technique is different, but with a little time I think it is easy to master and achieve superior shaves.
I recommend the Bluebeard’s “Scimitar“, the Muhle 89, the EJ DE89, the Merkur 34c and Merkur 38c as all good introductory razors to begin. I also recommend investing in a shaving brush, and cream or soap to complete your shaving system. Welcome to the club!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Do you recommend Gillette 7 O’ Clock double edge razor blades?
Aaron is asked a question about the merits of Gillette 7 O’ Clock double edge razor blades
Victor Lord Denovan, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, I have now tried quite a number of different double edge razor blades, including Feathers, Astras, etc but never tried Gillette 7 o’clocks. I must admit that the ones mentioned above did not really impress me over the Supermax Blue Diamonds, although I realise that everyone’s face is different. Do you think the 7 o’clocks are noticeably better/different? Regards, Victor.”
Gillette 7 O’ Clock razor blades
AARON SAYS
“Lord Denovan,
I have tried several different brands of the Gillette 7′O clock brand, but to me they were not better than Feathers, which are my favorite. This just goes to show you that blades are the most personable and subjective aspect to wetshaving.
I suggest you try them, who knows, you might find one of them better than the Supermax, but if not, you know that the Supermax are the best for your particular face. It is truly a win-win situation. Let me know what you find out!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Problems with shaving under the chin area
Aaron is asked a question about shaving under the chin
Nigel Watford, from the UK, asks:
“Currently using an Edwin Jagger DE89, with Gillette 7 o clock razor blades which I find are the best blades for me. Looking to change the razor. The size is fine but I’m struggling under the chin area. Thinking about a adjustable razor like a Merkur. Can you advise on a razor please? The blades and cream are fine.”
Merkur 37C Slant Bar DE Safety Razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Watford,
I’m glad you have a good set that works well for you. Under the chin is a common problem for many men and requires some good care and attention. An adjustable razor is a good place to start, and I highly recommend the Merkur Progress and the Merkur Futur.
Another product I would suggest is the Merkur 37c/ Slant razor. Using these razors can definitely help on your quest! Thanks for your question!!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Can you recommend me a safety razor & a shave cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Aaron is asked to recommend a safety razor and a shaving cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Luke Cressey, from the UK, asks:
“Hello again, I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, and was wondering what safety razor do you recommend that I try? I have never used a safety razor before but have a Bluebeards Revenge disposable blade cut-throat razor but never was quite sure what the correct angle is to use it and pressure. Does a safety razor do these for you already? I know there is some technique to it, and I know it takes time so I was wondering if you could please tell me which one you recommend and where do I go to find the info I need. I learn much better by watching than reading, especially when it comes to shaving. Thank you for taking the time to read this email it is much appreciated. Because I have a tough beard should I stay away from shaving creams that don’t lather directly on the face to safe the heat and moisture? Thanks again”
The Merkur 38C Barberpole is a heavy duty, long handled razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr Cressey,
I’m glad you are considering a safety razor! I understand your position, as I too have a tough beard and sensitive skin. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Muhle 89, the Bluebeard’s “scimitar”, the Edwin Jagger DE89, or the Merkur 38c “barberpole”. These are all great introductory razors. They do not set the angle for you, that is part of the technique you have to learn, but they are certainly more forgiving than a cut-throat or straight razor.
To answer your shaving cream question, I would stay away from canned foams and gels that use aerosols and other propellants. These contain large amounts of preservatives and chemicals that can dry out your skin and contain lots of air. I do recommend using a good cream or soap that using water to activate and can be used with a shaving brush (although many you can bring to a lather with just your hand too).
It sounds as if you might be a visual learner and to learn more by watching I highly recommend my friend Mantic59′s Youtube Channel. He has wonderful tutorials and does a great job explaining and demonstrating technique. Also look for videos by geofatboy, Lynn S. Abrams, and many others. The more you can watch the better idea you will have how to do it yourself.
This is quite the lengthy answer, I hope it gives you good information! Please contact us with any other questions you may have, and Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Merkur 34C vs Muhle R89 - Which one is the best?
Aaron answers a question about which safety razor is the best, the Merkur 34c or the Muhle R89
Billy Stewart, from the UK, asks:
“I am ready to purchase my first de safety razor and have decided on a choice between Merkur 34c and the Muhle R89 which would be the best? Unless you can recommend something else?”
The Muhle R89 safety razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Stewart,
Congratulations on your first safety razor purchase! Honestly the Muhle 89 and the Merkur 34c are both great introduction razors and you would do well to purchase either one. I personally started with the Merkur 34c, but know many others who have started with the Muhle. The choice is yours, choose which one seems to appeal to you most and welcome to the safety razor club!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Do you recommend a three-pass shave?
Aaron answers an excellent question about the merits & pitfalls of a three-pass shave
Steven Anders, from the UK, asks:
“I am new to straight razor shaving and have been using one for about a month now. Having just about gotten used to the closeness of the shave and technique I am confused about the advice online. I have seen a lot of companines, Taylors included, which advocate a three-pass shave including against the grain, but then others say you should not do this under any circumstance. Could you claify this for me please?”
The main thing is finding what works for you, and sticking with it
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Anders,
Welcome to the subjective and highly opinionated side of wetshaving! The opinions are many and strong on the subject of passes and grain direction. Here’s my take on it all: do what’s best for your face. I personally do three passes going with, across, and against the grain. That’s what seems to feel best for my face and lifestyle.
Honestly, it’s up to you. If you feel that your face handles against the grain well, and you like the closeness, by all means go for it! I know gentlemen who can’t and so they make a second across the grain pass. The main thing is finding what works for you, and sticking with it!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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The soaring cost of cartridge razor blades under the spotlight again
The increasing cost of cartridge razor blades has been a grave concern for millions of men all over the globe.
And now Northern Ireland’s Democratic Unionist Party (DUP) have expressed their concern over the cost of shaving. So much so that three of their MPs have backed a Commons call for the pricing to be looked at.
The Early Day Motion notes “the exorbitant increase in the retail price of men’s razor blade cartridges where in three years the price has increased in some cases by almost 100%”.
The three MPs, East Londonderry MP Gregory Campbell, South Antrim MP Willie McCrea and David Simpson, have called on the Office of Fair Trading and consumer bodies to investigate why prices so are so high.
They said “it has been reported that the production costs per cartridge are in pence, while marketing, packaging and profiteering are resulting in margins of around a 1,000%, with an eight-cartridge pack currently retailing at many outlets at approximately £22″.
Here at The Shaving Shack we agree that the cost of cartridge blades is something that needs to be addressed, but there is an easy solution guys – change your shaving habits and ditch the overpriced cartridge razor. Opt instead for a double edge safety razor and if you’re feeling really adventurous, a straight or cut throat razor (as it’s more commonly referred to).
Not only will both types of razor give you a better quality of shave, they are also much cheaper in the long run.
A lot of men are simply unaware over the financial benefits of using a DE razor instead of a cartridge, so I thought it would be interesting to commission a new report and treat the exercise as an investment decision.
I spoke to leading business author and wet shaving enthusiast Andrew Wilson, who took time out of his busy schedule to look at the subject in detail.
And this is what he found:
“If you assume you buy a reasonable DE razor for £50 and a shaving brush for £35, shaving soap for £9 and just buy one blade for 20 pence, your upfront costs are about £94.20. To buy a “typical” cartridge razor, some foam and 1 blade costs you £17.86. So in upfront costs you need to spend £76.34 more on a DE razor.
“Now if you look at the annual renewal costs of each of these types of shaving you find that the DE method costs about £20.10 a year if you shave 6 times a week and change your blade after 4 shaves, and use half a shaving soap a year. The “typical” cartridge razor comes in at £100.22 a year. This assumes you get 10 shaves per blade and you shave 6 times a week. It assumes you have to buy a new razor every three years and that you buy 4 cans of foam a year. (Altogether not unrealistic)
“This means that each year that you shave with DE, you save £80.12. So is this a worthwhile investment. If you assume inflation at 3% and discount the cash flow over 20 years, that £76.34 investment is worth over £1,000 (Net present value) to you in today’s money! Or an Internal rate of return (IRR) of over 105%.
“Basically if you were a private equity business and this was an investment deal, the project would be a go.”
So guys please, please bin the multi-bladed cartridge razor and invest in some decent shaving equipment that is not just going to give you a closer and more comfortable shave (here is why), but also save you hundreds of pounds.
Change your shaving habits today….
Ask Aaron Q/A: Are there any long-term negative effects of double edge shaving to the skin?
Aaron answers an excellent question about double edge shaving and the long term effects on the skin
Steve Donnellan, from the UK, asks:
“I recently undertook an experiment of using a multi-blade razor on one side of my face and a DE razor on the other half to compare results; 3 way shave on both sides. The results were obviously better using the DE Razor! However, I followed it up with the standard technique of using an Alum Block and noticed absolutely no sensation on the side I shaved with the multi-blade razor, but the usual stinging sensation on the side that I used the DE Razor. Therefore, is using a DE razor more harmful/aggressive and are there any longer term negative effects of DE shaving to the skin?”
Double edge shaving provides a much smoother shave
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Donnellan,
I’m glad you feel confident enough to do some experiments! What you have done is brilliant and has an excellent observation. Yes indeed, DE shaving will leave you with a closer shave than it’s modern counterpart.
The reason the alum block leaves a sting behind on the DE side of your face is the blade sits directly on your skin with DE razor while it is held off of the face with a modern cartridge razor. Therefore the tendency will be to lightly graze the surface of the skin with the blade and the alum block reveals these little injuries. Preventing this is a matter of technique. Watch the angle of the razor and blade, use as little pressure as possible and learn the feel of a good angle and what it feels like to have the blade at too acute an angle.
When you have followed these techniques the blade will skim over the surface, leaving you skin undamaged and incredibly smooth. When this happens you have arrived.
Best wishes and Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Double edge (DE) safety razor aggressiveness explained
We often get questions from customers about the aggressiveness of double edge safety razors and which ones are best suited for their particular hair/beard type.
With that in mind, I thought I would put together a brief guide about what makes a razor mild, medium or aggressive and what type and skill level of wet shaver it’s been designed for.
According to the popular Badger and Blade shaving forum, the aggressiveness of a razor is based on 5 key factors. These are:
• Blade gap
• Blade angle in the razor
• Razor weight
• Distribution of the weight. (Heavy head/light handle vs. all heavy.)
• Blade angle applied by the user (this can influence the shave drastically if not done properly).
Blade gap and angle:
The larger the blade gap, the more of the blade is exposed to the skin, hence the greater risk of nicks and cuts for an inexperienced DE shaver. On the flip side, experienced DE shavers generally prefer a larger blade gap because it allows for greater control over the angle of the blade as it makes contact to the skin.
Razor weight and distribution of weight:
The heavier the razor, the more aggressive it is generally perceived to be. Weight balance (such as whether a razor is more head-heavy or handle-heavy) also plays a role, with razors balanced more toward the head often considered milder shavers than their handle-heavy counterparts.
According to many wet shaving experts like the guys on Badger and Blade or top shaving blogs such as Shaving101 and Sharpologist, the user shouldn’t just follow a quest to find the mildest or most aggressive razor, but instead they should find the right level of aggressiveness for their particular type of skin.
Mild Safety Razors
A mild safety razor has a cutting head that is designed to limit the amount of force that is transferred to the blade’s edge. Because these types of razors are less likely to cause irritation or nicks during a shave, they are perfect for men with very sensitive skin or men with lighter/weaker beard growth.
Good examples of mild safety razors include the Feather All Stainless and Goodfella. You could also try an adjustable safety razor, such as the Merkur Futur 761 or Merkur 570 Progress, on the lowest blade exposure settings.
Medium Safety Razors
Medium aggressive safety razors, as the name suggests, have an average blade gap and expose a reasonable amount of blade edge. Providing a good balance between mild and aggressive, these types of razors allow the blade to cut efficiently without causing excessive irritation or increased probability of cuts and nicks.
Good examples of medium safety razors include the legendary Merkur 34C, Edwin Jagger DE89L and the shiny Bluebeards Revenge ‘Scimitar’. But in truth, most of the safety razors manufactured today would be considered medium as they provide the best of both worlds and can be targeted at both the experienced and inexperienced DE shaver.
Aggressive Safety Razors
Aggressive safety razors have a larger gap and greater blade exposure, allowing more hair to enter between the razor’s edge and the safety bar. This means it will cut through the beard much quicker and with fewer strokes. Aggressive safety razors are harsher on the skin and are usually favoured by men with very thick beard growth who struggle to get a close shave without having to do multiple passes.
The Merkur 37C Slant Bar is a serious bit of kit designed for the more experienced DE shaver for an extremely close shave. Another aggressive razor is the Merkur 39C Slant Bar, which is the long handled version of the 37C. The slanted head exposes more of the blade at one end and is very similar to the cutting angle of a straight (cut-throat) razor. It is also highly regarded as one of the best DE razors for sensitive skin sufferers because of the way it shaves.
Open comb razors like the Merkur 25C and Muhle R41 tend to be more aggressive and can give an easier shave for those who suffer from tough beards. The teeth help to guide and position the beard hair so that the blade can cut them more effectively without clogging the razor.
You could also try an adjustable safety razor, such as the Merkur Futur or Merkur Progress, on the highest blade exposure settings.
For more detailed information on safety razor aggressiveness please visit the following websites:
Shaving101
Badger and Blade
The great cartridge razor rip off - Change your shaving habits now & save a fortune
In January 2011, I blogged about why a double edge razor is technically better than a cartridge based razor system. Now there is yet another reason for men to ditch the horrid multi-bladed cartridge razor in favour of the single bladed razor.
According to an article on the Daily Mail website, the price of razor blade ‘cartridges’ has jumped by as much as 99% over the last three years.
“Replacement cartridges for Gillette’s Fusion ProGlide can be as much as £3.49 each,” the newspaper said.
It went on to say that blades for Gillette’s top-of-the-range Fusion ProGlide cost less than 10p to manufacturer, which in my book is a fairly decent profit margin.
The paper also blames Gillette, the world’s largest shaving company by quite a distance, for imposing a stealth price rise by cutting the number of replacement cartridges in its Mach3 Turbo packs from five to four.
“The smaller pack did not bring a corresponding cut in the price, leaving men paying at least 20 per cent more,” the article says.
It went on to blame the increasing cost of cartridge blades for men’s poor shaving habits.
“At the same time, men worried about making ends meet are either trying to make their razor blades last longer, with the resulting scrapes and cuts – or ditching their shaving regime and opting for designer stubble.”
A better quality shave with a long term saving
This all makes me rather angry as there is an easy solution – change your shaving habits and ditch the overpriced cartridge razor. Opt instead for a double edge safety razor and if you’re feeling really adventurous, a straight or cut throat razor (as its more commonly referred to).
Not only will both types of razor give you a better quality of shave, they are also much cheaper in the long run, as a number of the comments on the Daily Mail article point out.
“I switched from cartridge razors to a straight razor and have never looked back. True your initial investment is a little higher but the payback on these cartridge blades is 6 months or so. Have not had to buy a single razor blade in 18 months now,” commented Derrick Young, Wasaga Beach, Ontario.
Roy, from York, also pointed out the massive cost savings men could experience from switching to a DE razor: “I have used an old fashioned Double Edge safety razor for years and blades for that can cost as little as 10p. As they are cheap you can afford to change them regularly and get a good shave. With multi bladed cartridges because of the price people carry on using them when they are going blunt. With DE razors, OK the razor is more expensive but it lasts for many years, but one sharp blade every couple of shaves is better than a dull multi blade being stretched out over a week. People have had good shaves with single blades for centuries. Multi blades are a marketing gimmick.”
Roy’s last sentence is a very accurate one, “Multi blades are a marketing gimmick”. Let’s face it Gillette are excellent at marketing their products, they have pretty much convinced men that 3 blades are better than 1 and 5 blades are better than 3. They also spend millions of pounds on celebrity endorsements, with sports stars like Roger Federer, Tiger Woods, and Thierry Henry (who now wears a beard) fronting lavish TV and newspaper campaigns.
It was Gillete who first worked out that men would indeed fork out for overpriced cartridges as long as the initial cost, i.e. the handle, was affordable. It’s pretty much the same business model adopted by ink jet printer companies. Sell a cheap printer, then sell really expensive “cartridges” that run out quickly. It’s simple, but very effective.
Dollar Shave Club
It will be interesting to see how successful the much-hyped Dollar Shave Club will turn out to be. Dollar Shave Club’s business model is similar to LoveFilm, which sends subscribers movies in the post for a small monthly fee. Dollar Shave Club will send customers a monthly supply of disposable razor blades starting at $1 a month (however, when you add in delivery costs it’s more like the 4-Dollar Shave Club). A catchy brand name and I must say a pretty cool launch commercial, which has picked up nearly 5 million views on YouTube. And according to widespread media reports, more than 12,000 people have signed up for the service.
There is no question that the Dollar Shave Club YouTube video is hilarious. But aside from the online hype, can the Dollar Shave Club compete against the likes of Gillette in the long term? I’m guessing not…
Looking ahead, I really hope men will start to see through all this cleaver marketing and take a stand against the rising cost of cartridges. For those switching to the affordable yet luxurious world of double edged shaving, all I can do is welcome you to the real men’s club. And I will finish this article by saying; shaving should be regarded as a pleasure, not a chore.
Happy shaving.
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