Ask Aaron Q/A: I’m struggling to get a decent shave from a DE razor – What am I doing wrong?
Aaron is asked a question from a DE newbie who is struggling to get a decent shave with his Edwin Jagger safety razor
Brendan Nichols, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve just bought my first DE saftey razor (EJ CHATSWOTH) and I have also invested in a Kent BK12 shaving brush to compliment it. I’ve been using my new razor now for 3 days but can’t seem to get a close shave like I did with a Mach 3 razor? I’m using feather blades with the razor but still can’t get a close shave (FEEL LIKE AN ELECTRIC SHAVE) and find myself going over the same parts 3 or 4 times, which for me is not good as I have very sensitive skin. As a result of this my skin has become blotchy and I’m already contemplating on giving up with DE shaving and going back to a Mach 3? I use good quality shaving cream (Geo f trumper) so I know its not this. I’m not sure if it’s just me being new to DE shaving and not getting my razor angle right? Not sure what to do I have spent a lot of money on my new razor but also dont want to irritate my skin any more. Do u have any suggestions please?”
Edwin Jagger Chatsworth Double Edge Razor (Chrome)
AARON SAYS
“Mr Nichols,
Well this is definitely not the start we want you to have to traditional shaving! You definitely have fine equipment to work with and I do not see that as a problem.
Try going back to the basics and making sure your technique is where it’s supposed to be. Are you creating a good thick lather that looks like meringue, is your razor angle around 30 degrees, lock your wrist and make the shaving motions with your arm, little to no pressure and other pieces of technique.
I also would consider switching the blade, Feathers can be harsh to a beginner and Derby’s, Astras, Personnas or Wilkinson-Sword blades may work better. Another thought, make sure the secondary plate (the one the blade rests on) isn’t upside down. It’s easy to do, even sometimes the more experienced ones of us (including myself here) have been known to do so.
Please reply back and let us know if this helps! We will do what we can to make sure your shaving experience is a smooth one!
Cheers,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Straight razor maintenance – Honing & Stropping
Aaron is asked a question about honing and stropping a straight/cut throat razor
James Allen, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, my face is on fire and I have about 5 cuts as well. I am new to shaving with a straight razor and have tried to hone and strop the blade myself. I used a 800 grit stone, then onto an 8000+ slate stone, then strop. The blade will pop hairs from my arm but when I try to shave with it, it just isn’t sharp enough. Please tell me where I’m going wrong? (had to abandon my shave 3/4′s of the way through to) very painfull.”
Honing and sharpening your own straight razor is a fine art
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Allen,
Honing and sharpening your own straight razor is a fine art. From what I have read, you need even finer grit honing stones to continue your process.
I definitely recommend taking your razor to your local barber, or finding a honing specialist in the UK through one of the many online shaving forums (straightrazorplace.com, badgerandblade.com, and shavenook.com are the most popular). Many gentlemen there will be able to hone your razor, and give you tips and tricks on how to learn to hone it yourself.
Also you can find great information on stropping your blade (rolling the edges will defeat all your honing work!) and shaving technique. Good luck with your new shaving venture, and I wish you the very best!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Can you recommend me a safety razor & a shave cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Aaron is asked to recommend a safety razor and a shaving cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Luke Cressey, from the UK, asks:
“Hello again, I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, and was wondering what safety razor do you recommend that I try? I have never used a safety razor before but have a Bluebeards Revenge disposable blade cut-throat razor but never was quite sure what the correct angle is to use it and pressure. Does a safety razor do these for you already? I know there is some technique to it, and I know it takes time so I was wondering if you could please tell me which one you recommend and where do I go to find the info I need. I learn much better by watching than reading, especially when it comes to shaving. Thank you for taking the time to read this email it is much appreciated. Because I have a tough beard should I stay away from shaving creams that don’t lather directly on the face to safe the heat and moisture? Thanks again”
The Merkur 38C Barberpole is a heavy duty, long handled razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr Cressey,
I’m glad you are considering a safety razor! I understand your position, as I too have a tough beard and sensitive skin. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Muhle 89, the Bluebeard’s “scimitar”, the Edwin Jagger DE89, or the Merkur 38c “barberpole”. These are all great introductory razors. They do not set the angle for you, that is part of the technique you have to learn, but they are certainly more forgiving than a cut-throat or straight razor.
To answer your shaving cream question, I would stay away from canned foams and gels that use aerosols and other propellants. These contain large amounts of preservatives and chemicals that can dry out your skin and contain lots of air. I do recommend using a good cream or soap that using water to activate and can be used with a shaving brush (although many you can bring to a lather with just your hand too).
It sounds as if you might be a visual learner and to learn more by watching I highly recommend my friend Mantic59′s Youtube Channel. He has wonderful tutorials and does a great job explaining and demonstrating technique. Also look for videos by geofatboy, Lynn S. Abrams, and many others. The more you can watch the better idea you will have how to do it yourself.
This is quite the lengthy answer, I hope it gives you good information! Please contact us with any other questions you may have, and Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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James Bond ‘Skyfall’ Boosts Cut Throat Razor Sales By 405%
PRESS RELEASE FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Shaving retailer reports sharp increase in cut throat sales after 007 gets the shave of his life
The Shaving Shack, the UK’s leading online retailer of premium shaving products, has attributed the latest James Bond movie for a whopping 405% increase in sales of cut throat razors.
During a scene in Skyfall, British actress Naomie Harris gives 007, played by Daniel Craig, a close shave using a cut throat razor, whispering in his ear “sometimes the old ways are the best” as she performs the shave.
And The Shaving Shack says this intimate shaving scene is the reason for the dramatic sales surge over the last five days.
007 has inspired men to embrace the cut throat shave
The online retailer has also seen a 123% increase in web traffic since the film was released in the UK on October 26. Traffic from Internet searches for “cut throat razor” and “straight razor” have soared by a staggering 735% over the last five days, the firm added.
Nick Gibbens, The Shaving Shack’s Brand Director, believes Bond’s legendary style and iconic status have inspired men to try out a new method of wet shaving.
“Bond fans have an emotional attachment to 007, they love his Aston Martin cars, Omega watches and dinner suits. So it comes as no surprise that they have jumped on his love for cut throat razors.
“These luxury, old-school razors range in price from around £60 up to £300 so it’s fair to say that Bond fans are spending big to ensure they look as clean cut as 007.”
But Bond fans that can’t splash out up to £300 on a razor are instead opting for a cut-price shavette – a close relative to the cut throat razor with the difference being that the blades can be changed. Sales of shavettes on The Shaving Shack website have risen by 509% since the release of Skyfall, with bumper sales of the budget £9.99 Bluebeards Revenge Shavette.
The Shaving Shack says it’s delighted to see an increasing number of men ditching the multi-bladed cartridge razor in favour of a straight but they are also keen to point out the increased complexity of a cut throat shave.
“Shaving with a cut throat razor is certainly one of life’s pleasures as it will give you the closest possible shave. But it does take time to master the technique and you’ll certainly need a steady hand and plenty of practice,” said Mr Gibbens.
“We strongly advise that all men take the time to read up on the correct technique.”
-Ends -
Notes to editors
For more information, please contact: Nick Gibbens on telephone 01752 898191 or email nick@shaving-shack.com.
About The Shaving Shack:
The Shaving Shack is one of the UK’s leading online retailers of high quality wet shaving accessories. The firm stocks high end razors, shaving brushes, double edge razor blades, shaving creams, soaps, bowls, pre-shave lotions and gels, alum bocks and aftershave lotions. Leading brand names featured on the website include The Bluebeards Revenge, Merkur, Cyril Salter, DR Harris, Tabac, Truefitt and Hill, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Kent and Parker.
More information can be found at http://www.shaving-shack.com.
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Shave like James Bond (007) – Top tips for the perfect cut throat shave
Ask Aaron Q/A: Do you recommend a three-pass shave?
Aaron answers an excellent question about the merits & pitfalls of a three-pass shave
Steven Anders, from the UK, asks:
“I am new to straight razor shaving and have been using one for about a month now. Having just about gotten used to the closeness of the shave and technique I am confused about the advice online. I have seen a lot of companines, Taylors included, which advocate a three-pass shave including against the grain, but then others say you should not do this under any circumstance. Could you claify this for me please?”
The main thing is finding what works for you, and sticking with it
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Anders,
Welcome to the subjective and highly opinionated side of wetshaving! The opinions are many and strong on the subject of passes and grain direction. Here’s my take on it all: do what’s best for your face. I personally do three passes going with, across, and against the grain. That’s what seems to feel best for my face and lifestyle.
Honestly, it’s up to you. If you feel that your face handles against the grain well, and you like the closeness, by all means go for it! I know gentlemen who can’t and so they make a second across the grain pass. The main thing is finding what works for you, and sticking with it!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Shave like James Bond (007) – Top tips for the perfect cut throat shave
In the latest James Bond film Skyfall, British actress Naomie Harris is quite cutting edge.
She gives 007 (Daniel Craig) a very close shave in one intimate scene in the 23rd installment of the secret agent franchise.
Naomie uses a cut throat/straight razor to give James the shave of his live. “Sometimes the old ways are the best,” Naomie says as she shaves him with the iconic razor.
The 36-year-old has since revealed she was sent to barber shop school to practise shaving balloons to prepare for the steamy scene.
Shaving with a cut throat razor is certainly one of life’s pleasures as it will give you the closest possible shave. But it does take time to master the technique and you’ll certainly need a steady hand and plenty of practice.
But if you’re looking to change your shavings habits and take the exciting journey into straight razor shaving, then these tips will help you on your way.
Preparing your face for a cut throat shave
The key to a painless shave is to use plenty of warm or hot water before shaving. Either have a bath, shower or use a hot flannel to soften the bristles and open up the pores of the skin.
Make sure you massage your chosen shaving cream thoroughly into your stubble or beard. Use your fingers or a decent shaving brush. For straight cut shaving to work, the lather must not be allowed to dry.
Holding and using the razor
Hold the razor with your dominant hand. Your thumb should be on the underside of the shank against the shoulder. Your index, middle and ring fingers should be on the opposite side (top) of the shank. The handle should be between your ring and little finger, with the little finger resting on the crescent shaped tang. Some people prefer to have the ring finger on the tang also, but this is a matter of choice.
Now for the shave! With your other hand, stretch the skin as tight as you can get it. It is recommended to hold the blade at a 30 degree angle to the skin otherwise you’ll get cut! A useful way of starting is to lie the blade flat against your cheek and then lift the spine to the desired angle of 30 degrees before applying your first stroke. Use very little pressure and apply even strokes with the razor in the direction of the hair growth.
Below is an example of the general direction you might want to shave using your straight razor.
Once you’ve finished with your first shave you can then rinse, relather and shave again. This time though, you should go against the grain/direction of hair growth.
When you have finished shaving, rinse the shaved area with warm water and then follow up with a cool water rinse to close the pores.
If you cut yourself use an Alum Block!
Straight Razor Care
When you’ve finished shaving, rinse the razor in some running water. Dry it by dabbing it with a cloth. It is also good practice to apply a little bit of machine oil or similar to help prevent the blade from rusting.
You will be looking as good as 007 in no time…..
Stropping the razor
To maintain a keen edge on the razor regular stropping is a must. Stropping aligns the edge of the blade so that the steel is pointing in the same direction -note that it is not sharpening which is called ‘honing’ and is done using a wetstone. Simply attach one end of the strop to an immovable object, like a bedpost, and hold it taut with the other end in your other hand.
Using light pressure, run the blade horizontally up the leather surface, with the blade flat against the leather and the sharp side facing you. At the end of the stroke, flip the blade over so it’s again facing you as you run the blade horizontally back down the strop. It is recommended to do this about 40-60 times.
The Shaving Shack sells a great selection of quality cut throat razors. And don’t forget we offer flat fee delivery on all orders placed at our online shaving shop.
The great cartridge razor rip off – Change your shaving habits now & save a fortune
In January 2011, I blogged about why a double edge razor is technically better than a cartridge based razor system. Now there is yet another reason for men to ditch the horrid multi-bladed cartridge razor in favour of the single bladed razor.
“Replacement cartridges for Gillette’s Fusion ProGlide can be as much as £3.49 each,” the newspaper said.
It went on to say that blades for Gillette’s top-of-the-range Fusion ProGlide cost less than 10p to manufacturer, which in my book is a fairly decent profit margin.
A double edge razor offers a much closer shave
The paper also blames Gillette, the world’s largest shaving company by quite a distance, for imposing a stealth price rise by cutting the number of replacement cartridges in its Mach3 Turbo packs from five to four.
“The smaller pack did not bring a corresponding cut in the price, leaving men paying at least 20 per cent more,” the article says.
It went on to blame the increasing cost of cartridge blades for men’s poor shaving habits.
“At the same time, men worried about making ends meet are either trying to make their razor blades last longer, with the resulting scrapes and cuts – or ditching their shaving regime and opting for designer stubble.”
A better quality shave with a long term saving
This all makes me rather angry as there is an easy solution – change your shaving habits and ditch the overpriced cartridge razor. Opt instead for a double edge safety razor and if you’re feeling really adventurous, a straight or cut throat razor (as its more commonly referred to).
Not only will both types of razor give you a better quality of shave, they are also much cheaper in the long run, as a number of the comments on the Daily Mail article point out.
Double edge razors can offer a cheaper form of shaving
“I switched from cartridge razors to a straight razor and have never looked back. True your initial investment is a little higher but the payback on these cartridge blades is 6 months or so. Have not had to buy a single razor blade in 18 months now,” commented Derrick Young, Wasaga Beach, Ontario.
Roy, from York, also pointed out the massive cost savings men could experience from switching to a DE razor: “I have used an old fashioned Double Edge safety razor for years and blades for that can cost as little as 10p. As they are cheap you can afford to change them regularly and get a good shave. With multi bladed cartridges because of the price people carry on using them when they are going blunt. With DE razors, OK the razor is more expensive but it lasts for many years, but one sharp blade every couple of shaves is better than a dull multi blade being stretched out over a week. People have had good shaves with single blades for centuries. Multi blades are a marketing gimmick.”
Roy’s last sentence is a very accurate one, “Multi blades are a marketing gimmick”. Let’s face it Gillette are excellent at marketing their products, they have pretty much convinced men that 3 blades are better than 1 and 5 blades are better than 3. They also spend millions of pounds on celebrity endorsements, with sports stars like Roger Federer, Tiger Woods, and Thierry Henry (who now wears a beard) fronting lavish TV and newspaper campaigns.
It was Gillete who first worked out that men would indeed fork out for overpriced cartridges as long as the initial cost, i.e. the handle, was affordable. It’s pretty much the same business model adopted by ink jet printer companies. Sell a cheap printer, then sell really expensive “cartridges” that run out quickly. It’s simple, but very effective.
Dollar Shave Club
It will be interesting to see how successful the much-hyped Dollar Shave Club will turn out to be. Dollar Shave Club’s business model is similar to LoveFilm, which sends subscribers movies in the post for a small monthly fee. Dollar Shave Club will send customers a monthly supply of disposable razor blades starting at $1 a month (however, when you add in delivery costs it’s more like the 4-Dollar Shave Club). A catchy brand name and I must say a pretty cool launch commercial, which has picked up nearly 5 million views on YouTube. And according to widespread media reports, more than 12,000 people have signed up for the service.
There is no question that the Dollar Shave Club YouTube video is hilarious. But aside from the online hype, can the Dollar Shave Club compete against the likes of Gillette in the long term? I’m guessing not…
Looking ahead, I really hope men will start to see through all this cleaver marketing and take a stand against the rising cost of cartridges. For those switching to the affordable yet luxurious world of double edged shaving, all I can do is welcome you to the real men’s club. And I will finish this article by saying; shaving should be regarded as a pleasure, not a chore.
Happy shaving.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Which is better & easier – A hanging strop or a hand strop?
Antonio García Palomo, from Spain, asks:
“I’m going to get a strop (fan of wet shaving but using safety razor so far). My only doubt is a hanging or a hand strop. Awaiting for your advice.”
Dual Leather Hand Strop
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Palomo, Honestly I use a safety razor most of the time, however I do keep in touch and read about what happens with the straight razor world. Both strops have their place, but from what I understand the hanging strop will be more suitable to the needs of a beginning straight razor user. That would be the one I would recommend.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Preparing a straight razor for its first shave
Jason Maloney, from the UK, asks:
“I recently bought my first Dovo of Solingen razor, I’ve also bought Canadian 2500 grit travel stone, and a strop. When I first used my blade I thought it would be like a hot knife through butter, but I found the shave very hard in the aspect the hair on my face was pulling. It felt like the blade was not sharp enough? But there supposed to be shave ready? I also steamed my face so the hair was really soft and I lathered up properly as on the tutorials on Youtube, can you tell me what I’m doing wrong?”
Dovo of Solingen Shavette (Polished Steel Handle)
AARON SAYS
“Mr Maloney,
Despite their claims, most razors do not come shave ready, sadly. I would definitely suggest getting it honed before trying to shave much more with it. If you are going to hone it yourself, read up on it thoroughly and practice practice practice. It’s a difficult art, but very worthy once you learn. You’ll want to get progressively finer stones as well, especially as high as 8000, 10000, 12000 for that fine, sharp edge.
I am a big proponent of preparing your face to shave. However I will caution that you can over-prep with hot water and steam causing your face to be tender. I doubt this was the case from your description, but wanted to provide you with the caveat. I wish you all the best on your straight razor journey!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Top tips on how to shave with a straight razor
Ben Stone, from the UK, asks:
“What would be your best piece of advice for someone who has never used a cut throat/straight razor before? What kit would I need to buy and how would I start my first cut throat shave?”
Cyril Salter Solingen 5/8 Open Razor Round Point
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Stone,
I’m glad you want to take the plunge into straight razor shaving! You’ll need at the least a straight razor and a strop. The strop is a leather strap similar to a wide belt that helps align the metal on the edge of the blade keeping it razor sharp. This is your basic kit! Although if you don’t have them already you’ll want a shaving brush and a good quality shaving cream and aftershave balm. And since you’re beginning with a straight razor, I’d recommend an alum block or styptic pencil because nicks will be inevitable at first until you get the technique down.
Dual Leather Hand Strop
To begin your shave I recommend showering or applying a hot towel to moisten and soften the hairs. Apply a pre-shave oil and lather up your shave cream with the shaving brush either in a bowl or on your face. Shave very gently with as little pressure as possible letting the razor do the work slicing the hairs. Reapply the lather with your shaving brush for each pass. Since you are starting out I recommend just doing one or two passes with and then across the direction of hair growth until you get the technique down. You may want to continue using your current razor to clean up any missed spots. Once you are done shaving rinse off with warm then cool water and apply the alum block or styptic pencil as needed then apply your post-shave balm.
Welcome to the world of wetshaving! Hope you enjoy and if there is anything else I can do, please contact us again!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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