Ask Aaron Q/A: I’m struggling to get a decent shave from a DE razor – What am I doing wrong?
Aaron is asked a question from a DE newbie who is struggling to get a decent shave with his Edwin Jagger safety razor
Brendan Nichols, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve just bought my first DE saftey razor (EJ CHATSWOTH) and I have also invested in a Kent BK12 shaving brush to compliment it. I’ve been using my new razor now for 3 days but can’t seem to get a close shave like I did with a Mach 3 razor? I’m using feather blades with the razor but still can’t get a close shave (FEEL LIKE AN ELECTRIC SHAVE) and find myself going over the same parts 3 or 4 times, which for me is not good as I have very sensitive skin. As a result of this my skin has become blotchy and I’m already contemplating on giving up with DE shaving and going back to a Mach 3? I use good quality shaving cream (Geo f trumper) so I know its not this. I’m not sure if it’s just me being new to DE shaving and not getting my razor angle right? Not sure what to do I have spent a lot of money on my new razor but also dont want to irritate my skin any more. Do u have any suggestions please?”
Edwin Jagger Chatsworth Double Edge Razor (Chrome)
AARON SAYS
“Mr Nichols,
Well this is definitely not the start we want you to have to traditional shaving! You definitely have fine equipment to work with and I do not see that as a problem.
Try going back to the basics and making sure your technique is where it’s supposed to be. Are you creating a good thick lather that looks like meringue, is your razor angle around 30 degrees, lock your wrist and make the shaving motions with your arm, little to no pressure and other pieces of technique.
I also would consider switching the blade, Feathers can be harsh to a beginner and Derby’s, Astras, Personnas or Wilkinson-Sword blades may work better. Another thought, make sure the secondary plate (the one the blade rests on) isn’t upside down. It’s easy to do, even sometimes the more experienced ones of us (including myself here) have been known to do so.
Please reply back and let us know if this helps! We will do what we can to make sure your shaving experience is a smooth one!
Cheers,
Aaron”
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Double edge shaving: Do you remember your first time?
Switching your shaving habits from a mass produced multi-bladed cartridge razor to a double edge safety razor is a great way of ensuring that proper, manly shave. But for many men around the world this can be a daunting move and something that is not taken lightly. But the rewards are great, as Steven Pearson, one of our customers, found out.
Here is his story:
Vividly, it was quite frankly horrible. I was a ridiculously moody teenager with more bum fluff than I, and it turns out most of my class mates, thought natural, so after skulking off home I decided to take matters into my own shaky hands. Armed with some shockingly blue old spice shaving gel stolen from my brother and also a clean razor from the brother’s stash, I wandered into the bathroom with much trepidation.
Steven Pearson applies some shaving cream with his shaving brush
What happened next is still difficult to describe, my non-washed or softened skin getting slavered with untold luminous chemicals, sliding across the grain, bleeding and, for the piece de resistance, a loud bang from the kitchen door as it is slammed shut after getting caught with the breeze that made me jump so high that I almost cut my chin off. In fact the scar was there for a good six months and was the starting point of any conversation that a female tried to have with me for the entire summer. That’s the best a man can get? – was it hell!
Over the next couple of years I tried various shapes, sizes and blade numbers with limited success until, as a poor broke student I stumbled across a double edged black, but yet again, double edged razor sold in Boots. It was amazing, still not at the level of doing anything vaguely helpful in the way of pre or post shave care but I learnt how to shave properly and with confidence for the entirety of my student life. That is until my first pay packet saw me running out to buy the latest, shiniest, many-bladed monstrosity that I ravaged my skin with for the next 18 years.
That was until recently, when again financial constraints and silent mouthing of “how much” in supermarket aisles drove me back to the same high street retailer where, sitting quietly and plainly, in the almost easily overlooked part of the shaving section stood my saviour.
Mass produced, made of plastic and badly made, of course – so badly that a quick once over with a blade and nail file to the flashed edges was necessary, was my Wilkinson sword classic, complete with blades – an absolute bargain! Home I rushed and quickly washed and prepared my face and drew the old friend across it, it was like a homecoming.
Steven Pearson shaves with a DE safety razor
A homecoming to that fateful first day and a blood loss of prestigious proportions as I attempted to remember how to shave properly! And yes over the next few days, and I am ashamed to say weeks, I relearnt the art of shaving. Not much has changed to be honest, early mornings are still a ridiculous time to get up, but the array of products available to Joe Bloggs has improved dramatically thanks to the advent of the Internet and the postal van of happiness that now drops off delights at my house regularly.
The feeling of delight when your face has its whiskers cleanly lopped off is still there and the clean shaven face that greets me with its big smile is more familiar than before, it seems to say: ”welcome to the billionaires boys club, we all shave like this”. Work seems a bit more impressed, with one of my colleagues commenting about how fresh faced I looked.
The good lady seems impressed too; comments about how she prefers to see me clean shaven have reduced as I’m always clean shaven now. Also the incidence of the European kiss hello, you know, the one where you get a kiss of the side of the face instead of square on the smackers has reduced dramatically. Long live the double edged razor and all who use her!
Shaving is no longer a chore – How double edge shaving turned a daily chore into a daily pleasure
For many men around the world shaving is regarded as a daily, but necessary chore. You reach in the cabinet for your multi-bladed cartridge razor and foam or gel and shave the way you always have. You finish, rinse of your face and then clean your razor.
This was also the case for Christopher Maguire, who hated shaving so much that he only shaved once a week, sometimes only once a fortnight. But Christopher’s mindset changed overnight after he was introduced to the wonderful world of double edge shaving. Chris now looks forward to his daily shave, and wants more men to follow his lead and dump the multi-bladed cartridge razor and embrace the world of double edge shaving.
Chris making a luxurious lather
Here is Chris’ story:
“I stumbled into the world of wet shaving by accident, it started because by girlfriend bought me a shaving kit for Christmas. It didn’t come with a razor but it did have a shaving brush, shaving cream and a bowl to lather the cream. Seeing the brush took me back to when I was a little boy when I used to see my grandad shave with a brush, soap and a double edged razor.
That morning I used the brush and soap and had the most enjoyable shave since I first picked up a razor.
The following days I did more research into wet shaving. Learning that if you have sensitive skin, suffer from razor burn or ingrown hairs, a double edged razor can significantly help to reduce these problems. Partly due to exfoliating with the brush and also by using a single blade, so less passes are made and thus reducing irritation.
Chris gets to work on the shave
I suffer from really bad shaving rash on my neck which a lot of the time come out in spots, also I seemed the get ingrown hairs on my cheeks quite often which turned into boils. This made me not shave quite as much as I should, much to the disappointment of my girlfriend. Luckily I don’t have to be clean shaven for my job so I only shaved once a week, some times once every 2 weeks.
Another reason this type of shaving appealed to me was the price of cartridge razors. At least ten pounds for 4 cartridges compared to 3 pounds on 10 blades. Which is a problem when money is tight at times due to me being a part-time student and my girlfriend being at university, so often I would use blunted blades causing a painful rash on my neck.
After doing a fair bit of research I bought a Merkur 33c. When it arrived I used it straight away. I was a bit nervous at first, mainly because I didn’t want to cut my face to bits. It took me about 10-15 mins the first time and I couldn’t get over how close of a shave it was. I did have a couple of nicks but practice is all it takes to find a technique. Turns out I really enjoy shaving and do it more often, without the rash or ingrown hairs.
I’m glad i found this type of shaving as it will save me lots of money in the long run but also because it seems to have turned into a new hobby of mine. I now look forward to shaving, which is quite strange for me.“
Do you have a wet shaving story to tell the world? If you would like see your article posted on The Shaving Shack Blog, email nick@shaving-shack.com.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Aaron is asked a question about the differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Darren Collins, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, I’ve always used cartridge razors (5 blade Wilkinson Sword at the moment)…Is there much difference between a cut throat or safety razor and the system I use now? How easy is it to shave “properly”? Can you please recommend me a good quality razor (I have sensitive skin)?”
A safety razor like the Merkur Futur 761 Safety Razor will offer a far smoother shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Collins,
I believe there to be a significant difference and improvement switching from a multi-blade cartridge system to a cut-throat or safety razor. The technique is different, but with a little time I think it is easy to master and achieve superior shaves.
I recommend the Bluebeard’s “Scimitar“, the Muhle 89, the EJ DE89, the Merkur 34c and Merkur 38c as all good introductory razors to begin. I also recommend investing in a shaving brush, and cream or soap to complete your shaving system. Welcome to the club!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Can you recommend me a safety razor & a shave cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Aaron is asked to recommend a safety razor and a shaving cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Luke Cressey, from the UK, asks:
“Hello again, I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, and was wondering what safety razor do you recommend that I try? I have never used a safety razor before but have a Bluebeards Revenge disposable blade cut-throat razor but never was quite sure what the correct angle is to use it and pressure. Does a safety razor do these for you already? I know there is some technique to it, and I know it takes time so I was wondering if you could please tell me which one you recommend and where do I go to find the info I need. I learn much better by watching than reading, especially when it comes to shaving. Thank you for taking the time to read this email it is much appreciated. Because I have a tough beard should I stay away from shaving creams that don’t lather directly on the face to safe the heat and moisture? Thanks again”
The Merkur 38C Barberpole is a heavy duty, long handled razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr Cressey,
I’m glad you are considering a safety razor! I understand your position, as I too have a tough beard and sensitive skin. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Muhle 89, the Bluebeard’s “scimitar”, the Edwin Jagger DE89, or the Merkur 38c “barberpole”. These are all great introductory razors. They do not set the angle for you, that is part of the technique you have to learn, but they are certainly more forgiving than a cut-throat or straight razor.
To answer your shaving cream question, I would stay away from canned foams and gels that use aerosols and other propellants. These contain large amounts of preservatives and chemicals that can dry out your skin and contain lots of air. I do recommend using a good cream or soap that using water to activate and can be used with a shaving brush (although many you can bring to a lather with just your hand too).
It sounds as if you might be a visual learner and to learn more by watching I highly recommend my friend Mantic59′s Youtube Channel. He has wonderful tutorials and does a great job explaining and demonstrating technique. Also look for videos by geofatboy, Lynn S. Abrams, and many others. The more you can watch the better idea you will have how to do it yourself.
This is quite the lengthy answer, I hope it gives you good information! Please contact us with any other questions you may have, and Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Shave like James Bond (007) – Top tips for the perfect cut throat shave
In the latest James Bond film Skyfall, British actress Naomie Harris is quite cutting edge.
She gives 007 (Daniel Craig) a very close shave in one intimate scene in the 23rd installment of the secret agent franchise.
Naomie uses a cut throat/straight razor to give James the shave of his live. “Sometimes the old ways are the best,” Naomie says as she shaves him with the iconic razor.
The 36-year-old has since revealed she was sent to barber shop school to practise shaving balloons to prepare for the steamy scene.
Shaving with a cut throat razor is certainly one of life’s pleasures as it will give you the closest possible shave. But it does take time to master the technique and you’ll certainly need a steady hand and plenty of practice.
But if you’re looking to change your shavings habits and take the exciting journey into straight razor shaving, then these tips will help you on your way.
Preparing your face for a cut throat shave
The key to a painless shave is to use plenty of warm or hot water before shaving. Either have a bath, shower or use a hot flannel to soften the bristles and open up the pores of the skin.
Make sure you massage your chosen shaving cream thoroughly into your stubble or beard. Use your fingers or a decent shaving brush. For straight cut shaving to work, the lather must not be allowed to dry.
Holding and using the razor
Hold the razor with your dominant hand. Your thumb should be on the underside of the shank against the shoulder. Your index, middle and ring fingers should be on the opposite side (top) of the shank. The handle should be between your ring and little finger, with the little finger resting on the crescent shaped tang. Some people prefer to have the ring finger on the tang also, but this is a matter of choice.
Now for the shave! With your other hand, stretch the skin as tight as you can get it. It is recommended to hold the blade at a 30 degree angle to the skin otherwise you’ll get cut! A useful way of starting is to lie the blade flat against your cheek and then lift the spine to the desired angle of 30 degrees before applying your first stroke. Use very little pressure and apply even strokes with the razor in the direction of the hair growth.
Below is an example of the general direction you might want to shave using your straight razor.
Once you’ve finished with your first shave you can then rinse, relather and shave again. This time though, you should go against the grain/direction of hair growth.
When you have finished shaving, rinse the shaved area with warm water and then follow up with a cool water rinse to close the pores.
If you cut yourself use an Alum Block!
Straight Razor Care
When you’ve finished shaving, rinse the razor in some running water. Dry it by dabbing it with a cloth. It is also good practice to apply a little bit of machine oil or similar to help prevent the blade from rusting.
You will be looking as good as 007 in no time…..
Stropping the razor
To maintain a keen edge on the razor regular stropping is a must. Stropping aligns the edge of the blade so that the steel is pointing in the same direction -note that it is not sharpening which is called ‘honing’ and is done using a wetstone. Simply attach one end of the strop to an immovable object, like a bedpost, and hold it taut with the other end in your other hand.
Using light pressure, run the blade horizontally up the leather surface, with the blade flat against the leather and the sharp side facing you. At the end of the stroke, flip the blade over so it’s again facing you as you run the blade horizontally back down the strop. It is recommended to do this about 40-60 times.
The Shaving Shack sells a great selection of quality cut throat razors. And don’t forget we offer flat fee delivery on all orders placed at our online shaving shop.
The soaring cost of cartridge razor blades under the spotlight again
The increasing cost of cartridge razor blades has been a grave concern for millions of men all over the globe.
And now Northern Ireland’s Democratic Unionist Party (DUP) have expressed their concern over the cost of shaving. So much so that three of their MPs have backed a Commons call for the pricing to be looked at.
The Early Day Motion notes “the exorbitant increase in the retail price of men’s razor blade cartridges where in three years the price has increased in some cases by almost 100%”.
The three MPs, East Londonderry MP Gregory Campbell, South Antrim MP Willie McCrea and David Simpson, have called on the Office of Fair Trading and consumer bodies to investigate why prices so are so high.
The cost of a DE safety razor is much cheaper in the medium to long term
They said “it has been reported that the production costs per cartridge are in pence, while marketing, packaging and profiteering are resulting in margins of around a 1,000%, with an eight-cartridge pack currently retailing at many outlets at approximately £22″.
Here at The Shaving Shack we agree that the cost of cartridge blades is something that needs to be addressed, but there is an easy solution guys – change your shaving habits and ditch the overpriced cartridge razor. Opt instead for a double edge safety razor and if you’re feeling really adventurous, a straight or cut throat razor (as it’s more commonly referred to).
Not only will both types of razor give you a better quality of shave, they are also much cheaper in the long run.
A lot of men are simply unaware over the financial benefits of using a DE razor instead of a cartridge, so I thought it would be interesting to commission a new report and treat the exercise as an investment decision.
A safety razor like this Bluebeards ‘Scimitar’ offers a much closer shave
I spoke to leading business author and wet shaving enthusiast Andrew Wilson, who took time out of his busy schedule to look at the subject in detail.
And this is what he found:
“If you assume you buy a reasonable DE razor for £50 and a shaving brush for £35, shaving soap for £9 and just buy one blade for 20 pence, your upfront costs are about £94.20. To buy a “typical” cartridge razor, some foam and 1 blade costs you £17.86. So in upfront costs you need to spend £76.34 more on a DE razor.
“Now if you look at the annual renewal costs of each of these types of shaving you find that the DE method costs about £20.10 a year if you shave 6 times a week and change your blade after 4 shaves, and use half a shaving soap a year. The “typical” cartridge razor comes in at £100.22 a year. This assumes you get 10 shaves per blade and you shave 6 times a week. It assumes you have to buy a new razor every three years and that you buy 4 cans of foam a year. (Altogether not unrealistic)
“This means that each year that you shave with DE, you save £80.12. So is this a worthwhile investment. If you assume inflation at 3% and discount the cash flow over 20 years, that £76.34 investment is worth over £1,000 (Net present value) to you in today’s money! Or an Internal rate of return (IRR) of over 105%.
“Basically if you were a private equity business and this was an investment deal, the project would be a go.”
So guys please, please bin the multi-bladed cartridge razor and invest in some decent shaving equipment that is not just going to give you a closer and more comfortable shave (here is why), but also save you hundreds of pounds.
Change your shaving habits today….
Shaving tips for those who like to explore the great outdoors
Whether it’s camping, fishing, backpacking, or any other activity, us men love spending time in the outdoors, enjoying nature to its fullest while being secluded.
One reccuring concern however for many of us who spend more than a day or two outdoors, is how to handle shaving.
There are two issues regarding shaving outdoors :
1. While many guys just settle for growing a temporary beard, others like myself who suffer from sensitive skin or specific facial hair types, find that a beard irritates their skin, followed by their moods.
2. Shaving outdoors is usually an experience that resembles a prison shave. For classic wet shave enthusiasts such as myself, this is quite depressing.
Truefitt & Hill Authentic Ultimate Comfort Shaving Cream Bowl (190g)
Luckily, I found that with pre-planning and some creativity, a classic wet shave in the outdoors is possible. In fact, I noticed that after implementing these methods, shaving in the outdoors turned into something I look forward to, rather than dread, as it has a rewarding and even spiritual feel to it.
Preparation
Washbag
A quality washbag provides room for all my wet shaving necessities, while maintaining one of the most important factors in camping… keeping things minimal. My favorite is The Bluebeards Revenge washbag as it was made with shavers in mind and is also extremely durable. It contains a special room for items like my shaving brush (which helps keep it undamaged), shaving cream, razor, and plenty of room for other items to put inside its zipped compartments, as well as a hanging hook and a detachable mirror.
Items I Put In The Washbag (Shaving Related):
- Merkur 42 Nickel “904 Replica”Double Edge Razor
- Edwin Jagger Best Badger Brush
- Truefitt & Hill Authentic Ultimate Comfort Shaving Cream Bowl
- Washcloth
- Styptic Pencils (in the case of cuts and nicks).
- Mirror (comes with the washbag)
Why I Chose An Unscented Shaving Cream
Since you’re in the outdoors, it is most recommended that you go with an unscented shaving cream, as the ones with fragrance could attract annoying bugs, not to mention bears or other wildlife. Additionally, unscented shaving creams are much more forgiving on sensitive skin, and prevent annoying burns and bumps, which trust me, you do not want to experience during your time outdoors. I chose to go with Truefitt & Hill Authentic Ultimate Comfort Shaving Bowl because not only is it fragrant free, it has enough moisturizing capabilities to enable me to skip the use of an after shave, while providing excellent skin protection.
The Bluebeards Revenge Washbag
Shaving Outdoors, How It’s Done:
1. Begin the process by warming water using a water boiling pot over the campfire, or even a grill.
2. Take a washcloth and dampen it in the warm water, then simply let it rest on my face for about 1-2 minutes (be careful not to let the water get too hot)
3. Start lathering using your choice of shaving bowl or mug. I actually love using the same pot I used for warming water, as it tends to provide a uniquely effective lather.
4. With a mirror in one hand, you can begin to lather up your face with your favorite shaving brush. Take this time to get used to using the handheld mirror before moving on to the next stage. I personally prefer to hang the washbag with the mirror on a branch in front of me, as it allows me to have the other hand free to use various skin stretching techniques for a better shave.
Tip: If for some reason you forgot to bring a mirror, you can always use a vehicle’s side mirror as a last resort.
5. Apply your favorite razor using the same techniques you would at home.
6. Rinse off your face using cold water in order to close your pores, then rinse off your razor and clean your brush before putting it all back.
That’s all there is to it! Remember, none of this is set in stone. Feel free to alter things in order to address your own shaving needs.
Do you shave outdoors?, if so, how do you go about it? Leave a comment below
World’s first living shaving brush!
As unbelievable as it sounds an amazing observation by scientists at the World Hair Anagen Cycle Centre (WHACC) has led to the world’s first “living” shaving brush. “It’s a true phenomenon! We noticed that moulting hair from badgers, although separated from the badger itself, continued with the growth cycle” said a spokesman for the centre. Following a rigorous testing phase, scientists were able to harness this unique growth of badger bristle and apply it to a series of products to showcase the phenomena and it’s potential uses to the world.
“A couple of us are into traditional shaving using badger hair shaving brushes so we thought we’d have a bit of fun. We planted the bristles into a standard plastic handle, using a mix of resin and a unique formula agar jelly to hold them in place” said Professor Ed Brag.
The following pictures show the amazing 6 week growth experienced by the prototype shaving brush.
A clear 10mm growth in Badger Bristle Length (BBL) is shown, with the Badger Density Index (BDI) increasing proportionately with BBL. The scientists also noted that the bristle appears to mimic a badger’s natural hair growth cycle. “The initial growth period has been shown to be the most productive but growth slows down once it has reached the typical length for the hair if it was still growing on the badger’s body. After more testing we’ve found that because badgers do not hibernate, the bristle on the brush grows longer and thicker in the winter months” said Professor Brag.
Some have questioned the point of such a prototype. Brag goes on to state that “badger hair shaving brushes are still widely used and we believe there is a marketplace for this type of brush -who wouldn’t want a marvel of science sitting on their bathroom shelf that they can use daily? Should this go to full scale production it would in essence be a living shaving brush!”
When asked what maintenance would be needed on such a brush if it ever made it to market, project leader Dr Cam Tin said “…a yearly trim should be sufficient to keep your living badger brush in tip top shape” .
We’ll have more news on this soon..
Ask Aaron Q/A: Badger Shaving Brush Hair Grades
Aaron answers a question about the various badger hair grades
Bill Scott, from UK, asks:
“I currently use a shaving brush which is suffering from pattern baldness and definitely needs replacing. I had no idea that I would be faced with so much choice. From what I have gleaned so far it would appear silver tipped are the very best as they seem to be the most expensive. Am I correct? Your Taylor range of brushes makes no mention of the type of bristles used. Can you explain therefore what the difference in quality is between cheapest and most expensive? I look forward to hearing from you Bill.”
Plisson Black Handle European White Badger Brush
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Scott,
Thank you for a great question!! Choosing a new shave brush (I love your description of yours suffering from male pattern baldness!) can be daunting if you are not familiar with the various terms and details. One of the most confusing, as you have pointed out is the names and types of grades of hair used in brushes. For badger hair the general labeling is this from base to highest grade: Pure, Best, Finest, Silvertip. Now the caveat being that this is not set in stone and there is no standard, however the majority of manufacturers will follow these gradations. Describing all distinct differences between each grade is a long post all in itself, but hopefully these grades will give you a good idea of what you want. The best way to go about choosing a brush is to decide on your budget, and buy the best brush your budget will allow. The higher quality the brush, the better it will lather and the longer it will last with good care. Thanks for the question and smooth shaving!
Aaron”
How to select the right grade of badger brush (Part 1)
How to select the right grade of badger brush (Part 2)
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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