Safety razor buying guide – How to choose the right DE safety razor
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to choosing the right double edge razor
Often the question asked by our customers after “How do I get started traditionally shaving?” comes “Which razor do I use?”. With so many varieties and choices on the market it is no doubt that the choices would be overwhelming. Three piece, two piece; adjustable versus non-adjustable; turn to open doors; chrome, satin, red, blue or black, ivory; aggressive versus mild shavers, no wonder it is confusing! Let’s shed some light on the essentials, how they will affect your shave, and some recommended models for you to try.
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
As you learn the technique of shaving with a double edge razor a milder shaving razor would be better than a more aggressive shaving razor. The milder razor would be more forgiving of poor technique or mistakes reducing the risk of nicks and cuts. This mildness or aggressiveness comes down to blade exposure: the lesser blade exposure the milder the shave and conversely the more blade exposed the more aggressive the shave. There are articles on shaving forums across the web identifying the exact blade gap measured in microns, but for our purposes here we won’t be that detailed. Typically those razors that are two or three pieces, and those that are non-adjustable are more mild. The noticeable exception to this rule is the Muhle R41, which despite being a three piece razor is one of the more aggressive shaving razors on the market.
The shape of your face and body is a thing to consider. If you have a smaller face, a razor with a large head such as the Merkur Vision or Futur would prove impractical to shave with. Also if you have large hands you might want to consider a razor with a longer handle. Razors such as the Merkur 38c Barberpole, Progress, 25c and 23c all either are or have long handled versions. Another point of consideration is grip and steadiness of hand. If you have concerns about being able to hold your razor, choose one with knurling (the criss-cross pattern cut into the metal), it will provide a rougher surface with less slippage.
The Goodfella Chrome Safety Razor
For our beginning shavers we recommend the Bluebeards Scimitar, Muhle R89, Merkur 38c barberpole, Edwin Jagger DE89 and Parker 94r. These razors all have good reputations within the shaving community, and have a lesser blade gap. As you progress in experience and technique the need to upgrade your razor or buy another may come. For the more experienced shaver we recommend the Merkur Progress, 37c Slant, Muhle R41, and Merkur Futur amoung others. These razors are aggressive in nature, or can adjust their blade gap from a mild exposure to a much wider gap. Another option would be the open comb razor. The comb allows for a closer exposure to the blade and the comb acts as a guide for the hair leading it directly to the blade. Gentlemen with hair that grows closely to the skin, or with tough beards seem to benefit best from an open comb such as the Merkur 23c, 15c, Fatip Piccolo, and Goodfella.
Whatever your needs are: shaving fine or coarse hair, thin or thick, knowing your face and knowing the right razor to suit your needs will go a long way in improving your grooming experience.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Sore skin & small blood spots on chin & neck after shaving
Aaron is asked a question about sore skin & small blood spots on chin and neck after shaving
Andrew James, from the UK, asks:
“Hi there, new to double edge shaving from 18 years of cartridge shaving. Using Merkur HD and only tried Merkur blades so far. First pass WTG generally ok but tried second pass ATG yesterday (after re soaping) which left sore skin and small blood spots on chin and neck – ouch. What blade should I try next? Also, maybe I should stick to one pass, but I would like to do at least two to get a pretty close shave. Would value advice please. Ps; this blog facility is great.”
Take time, focus on basic technique, and enjoy the process, says Aaron
AARON SAYS
“Mr. James,
I would first make sure that you are developing your lather correctly, have a good blade angle (it should be about 30 degrees), and preparing your beard well by either showering or a hot towel.
Next I would say that since you are new to shaving with a single edge razor don’t shave against the grain. At the most right now go across, or perpendicular, to the beard growth. You may also take a second pass with the grain too, to increase the closeness of the shave. Shaving against the grain is a little bit advanced, and some say unnecessary, although it is something I practice for a close shave.
If you are looking to change the blades, I recommend the Israeli made blades, Astras, Derby, Lord, Sharks, and Wilkinson-Sword blades. I don’t recommend Feather blades until you are more comfortable with your shaving technique, they are incredibly sharp and unforgiving of mistakes.
I realize this is a lot of information at once. Take time, focus on basic technique, and enjoy the process! Soon you will be shaving easily and nick-free in no time.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Shaving is no longer a chore – How double edge shaving turned a daily chore into a daily pleasure
For many men around the world shaving is regarded as a daily, but necessary chore. You reach in the cabinet for your multi-bladed cartridge razor and foam or gel and shave the way you always have. You finish, rinse of your face and then clean your razor.
This was also the case for Christopher Maguire, who hated shaving so much that he only shaved once a week, sometimes only once a fortnight. But Christopher’s mindset changed overnight after he was introduced to the wonderful world of double edge shaving. Chris now looks forward to his daily shave, and wants more men to follow his lead and dump the multi-bladed cartridge razor and embrace the world of double edge shaving.
Chris making a luxurious lather
Here is Chris’ story:
“I stumbled into the world of wet shaving by accident, it started because by girlfriend bought me a shaving kit for Christmas. It didn’t come with a razor but it did have a shaving brush, shaving cream and a bowl to lather the cream. Seeing the brush took me back to when I was a little boy when I used to see my grandad shave with a brush, soap and a double edged razor.
That morning I used the brush and soap and had the most enjoyable shave since I first picked up a razor.
The following days I did more research into wet shaving. Learning that if you have sensitive skin, suffer from razor burn or ingrown hairs, a double edged razor can significantly help to reduce these problems. Partly due to exfoliating with the brush and also by using a single blade, so less passes are made and thus reducing irritation.
Chris gets to work on the shave
I suffer from really bad shaving rash on my neck which a lot of the time come out in spots, also I seemed the get ingrown hairs on my cheeks quite often which turned into boils. This made me not shave quite as much as I should, much to the disappointment of my girlfriend. Luckily I don’t have to be clean shaven for my job so I only shaved once a week, some times once every 2 weeks.
Another reason this type of shaving appealed to me was the price of cartridge razors. At least ten pounds for 4 cartridges compared to 3 pounds on 10 blades. Which is a problem when money is tight at times due to me being a part-time student and my girlfriend being at university, so often I would use blunted blades causing a painful rash on my neck.
After doing a fair bit of research I bought a Merkur 33c. When it arrived I used it straight away. I was a bit nervous at first, mainly because I didn’t want to cut my face to bits. It took me about 10-15 mins the first time and I couldn’t get over how close of a shave it was. I did have a couple of nicks but practice is all it takes to find a technique. Turns out I really enjoy shaving and do it more often, without the rash or ingrown hairs.
I’m glad i found this type of shaving as it will save me lots of money in the long run but also because it seems to have turned into a new hobby of mine. I now look forward to shaving, which is quite strange for me.“
Do you have a wet shaving story to tell the world? If you would like see your article posted on The Shaving Shack Blog, email nick@shaving-shack.com.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Aaron is asked a question about the differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Darren Collins, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, I’ve always used cartridge razors (5 blade Wilkinson Sword at the moment)…Is there much difference between a cut throat or safety razor and the system I use now? How easy is it to shave “properly”? Can you please recommend me a good quality razor (I have sensitive skin)?”
A safety razor like the Merkur Futur 761 Safety Razor will offer a far smoother shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Collins,
I believe there to be a significant difference and improvement switching from a multi-blade cartridge system to a cut-throat or safety razor. The technique is different, but with a little time I think it is easy to master and achieve superior shaves.
I recommend the Bluebeard’s “Scimitar“, the Muhle 89, the EJ DE89, the Merkur 34c and Merkur 38c as all good introductory razors to begin. I also recommend investing in a shaving brush, and cream or soap to complete your shaving system. Welcome to the club!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Problems with shaving under the chin area
Aaron is asked a question about shaving under the chin
Nigel Watford, from the UK, asks:
“Currently using an Edwin Jagger DE89, with Gillette 7 o clock razor blades which I find are the best blades for me. Looking to change the razor. The size is fine but I’m struggling under the chin area. Thinking about a adjustable razor like a Merkur. Can you advise on a razor please? The blades and cream are fine.”
Merkur 37C Slant Bar DE Safety Razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Watford,
I’m glad you have a good set that works well for you. Under the chin is a common problem for many men and requires some good care and attention. An adjustable razor is a good place to start, and I highly recommend the Merkur Progress and the Merkur Futur.
Another product I would suggest is the Merkur 37c/ Slant razor. Using these razors can definitely help on your quest! Thanks for your question!!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Skin irritation and razor bumps on neck
Aaron is asked a question about combatting shaving rash and bumps on the neck
Gavin James, from the UK, asks:
“I have a Merkur 34C and have been using Taylors shaving cream and a badger hair shaving brush. I’ve tried numerous different blades but still get terrible rash around the neck and then little spots a day or two later. The hair on my neck just doesn’t seem to want to play nicely. Normally I shave in strokes towards to the ground on my neck then stop about half way and then go upwards. The rash can also last this long. An electric razor just makes me sore for ages and doesn’t cut nicely. It’s also the same with any supermarket sold razor. I’ve tried them all. Would this Bluebeards Revenge shaving cream make that much different? What blades would you recommend for the very sensitive. Please help me be as smooth as a baby’s bum.”
Ingrowing hairs are a major problem for men
AARON SAYS
“Mr. James,
I completely understand you frustrations, the neck for me is the hardest area to shave and if I’m not careful I get rash and bumps too.
The first thing I would advise is looking which direction your hair grows in this area. Once you determine which direction the hair grows, I would suggest shaving on first pass with the grain, and then across/perpendicular to the grain. Shaving against the grain is difficult at best, and can cause irritation.
The next technique I would advise is to stretch the skin taught (but not overly tight!) creating a more flat shaving surface. This also makes reaching those pesky neck hairs easier. The last thing I would advise is using an aftershave balm. Keeping moisture on and in the skin helps the skin stay healthy and lets the hair grow out easier, especially if trying to grow into the skin.
Hopefully these tips will help you on your quest for the “Baby Bum Smooth” shave you’re looking for! Please let me know how they work!
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Merkur 34C vs Muhle R89 – Which one is the best?
Aaron answers a question about which safety razor is the best, the Merkur 34c or the Muhle R89
Billy Stewart, from the UK, asks:
“I am ready to purchase my first de safety razor and have decided on a choice between Merkur 34c and the Muhle R89 which would be the best? Unless you can recommend something else?”
The Muhle R89 safety razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Stewart,
Congratulations on your first safety razor purchase! Honestly the Muhle 89 and the Merkur 34c are both great introduction razors and you would do well to purchase either one. I personally started with the Merkur 34c, but know many others who have started with the Muhle. The choice is yours, choose which one seems to appeal to you most and welcome to the safety razor club!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Shaving tips for those who like to explore the great outdoors
Whether it’s camping, fishing, backpacking, or any other activity, us men love spending time in the outdoors, enjoying nature to its fullest while being secluded.
One reccuring concern however for many of us who spend more than a day or two outdoors, is how to handle shaving.
There are two issues regarding shaving outdoors :
1. While many guys just settle for growing a temporary beard, others like myself who suffer from sensitive skin or specific facial hair types, find that a beard irritates their skin, followed by their moods.
2. Shaving outdoors is usually an experience that resembles a prison shave. For classic wet shave enthusiasts such as myself, this is quite depressing.
Truefitt & Hill Authentic Ultimate Comfort Shaving Cream Bowl (190g)
Luckily, I found that with pre-planning and some creativity, a classic wet shave in the outdoors is possible. In fact, I noticed that after implementing these methods, shaving in the outdoors turned into something I look forward to, rather than dread, as it has a rewarding and even spiritual feel to it.
Preparation
Washbag
A quality washbag provides room for all my wet shaving necessities, while maintaining one of the most important factors in camping… keeping things minimal. My favorite is The Bluebeards Revenge washbag as it was made with shavers in mind and is also extremely durable. It contains a special room for items like my shaving brush (which helps keep it undamaged), shaving cream, razor, and plenty of room for other items to put inside its zipped compartments, as well as a hanging hook and a detachable mirror.
Items I Put In The Washbag (Shaving Related):
- Merkur 42 Nickel “904 Replica”Double Edge Razor
- Edwin Jagger Best Badger Brush
- Truefitt & Hill Authentic Ultimate Comfort Shaving Cream Bowl
- Washcloth
- Styptic Pencils (in the case of cuts and nicks).
- Mirror (comes with the washbag)
Why I Chose An Unscented Shaving Cream
Since you’re in the outdoors, it is most recommended that you go with an unscented shaving cream, as the ones with fragrance could attract annoying bugs, not to mention bears or other wildlife. Additionally, unscented shaving creams are much more forgiving on sensitive skin, and prevent annoying burns and bumps, which trust me, you do not want to experience during your time outdoors. I chose to go with Truefitt & Hill Authentic Ultimate Comfort Shaving Bowl because not only is it fragrant free, it has enough moisturizing capabilities to enable me to skip the use of an after shave, while providing excellent skin protection.
The Bluebeards Revenge Washbag
Shaving Outdoors, How It’s Done:
1. Begin the process by warming water using a water boiling pot over the campfire, or even a grill.
2. Take a washcloth and dampen it in the warm water, then simply let it rest on my face for about 1-2 minutes (be careful not to let the water get too hot)
3. Start lathering using your choice of shaving bowl or mug. I actually love using the same pot I used for warming water, as it tends to provide a uniquely effective lather.
4. With a mirror in one hand, you can begin to lather up your face with your favorite shaving brush. Take this time to get used to using the handheld mirror before moving on to the next stage. I personally prefer to hang the washbag with the mirror on a branch in front of me, as it allows me to have the other hand free to use various skin stretching techniques for a better shave.
Tip: If for some reason you forgot to bring a mirror, you can always use a vehicle’s side mirror as a last resort.
5. Apply your favorite razor using the same techniques you would at home.
6. Rinse off your face using cold water in order to close your pores, then rinse off your razor and clean your brush before putting it all back.
That’s all there is to it! Remember, none of this is set in stone. Feel free to alter things in order to address your own shaving needs.
Do you shave outdoors?, if so, how do you go about it? Leave a comment below
Ask Aaron Q/A: The Merkur Futur Razor
Brian Harvey, from the UK, asks:
“Merkur Futur razor – which of the two finishes (satin or shiny chrome) is the least slippery to hold whilst shaving?”
Merkur Futur 760 Safety Razor with Satin Chrome Finish
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Harvey,
I have yet to compare the two side by side, but if i were to guess I would say that the matte finish razor would be easier to hold. However my guess is there wouldn’t be much of a notable difference. Whatever you choose, stay smooth!
Smooth shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger? CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
The Merkur 33C Classic – A lighter variation on the legendary Merkur 34C
It is hard to argue with the older generation when they vehemently claim that the classics are still the best. They may generally be talking about old movies or TV shows, but the old adage also still rings true when it comes to a choice of razor. It is not just war veterans and old folks that prefer a razor that is designed for real men, one that gives you the closer shave most modern razors just cannot match.
Merkur 33C Classic
Just take the Merkur 33C Classic, for instance. This chrome-plated razor is the lighter weight version of the legendary Merkur 34C Heavy Duty. It utilises the same head but with a slighty narrower and consequently less weighty handle. As always, the same fantastic Merkur build quality has been applied to the 33C making it a top alternative to its heavy-duty sibling.
With Merkur you know you are purchasing a well-crafted razor, built on a tried and trusted design. This quality razor model is great for those starting out shaving and proper men looking for a heavy duty razor that is easier to handle when improving your technique, for a closer and smoother shave.
The Merkur 33C Classic is priced at just £19.99 at the Shaving Shack, while the Merkur 34C Heavy Duty is a little bit more expensive at £26.99.
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