Ask Aaron Q/A: Straight razor maintenance – Honing & Stropping
Aaron is asked a question about honing and stropping a straight/cut throat razor
James Allen, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, my face is on fire and I have about 5 cuts as well. I am new to shaving with a straight razor and have tried to hone and strop the blade myself. I used a 800 grit stone, then onto an 8000+ slate stone, then strop. The blade will pop hairs from my arm but when I try to shave with it, it just isn’t sharp enough. Please tell me where I’m going wrong? (had to abandon my shave 3/4′s of the way through to) very painfull.”
Honing and sharpening your own straight razor is a fine art
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Allen,
Honing and sharpening your own straight razor is a fine art. From what I have read, you need even finer grit honing stones to continue your process.
I definitely recommend taking your razor to your local barber, or finding a honing specialist in the UK through one of the many online shaving forums (straightrazorplace.com, badgerandblade.com, and shavenook.com are the most popular). Many gentlemen there will be able to hone your razor, and give you tips and tricks on how to learn to hone it yourself.
Also you can find great information on stropping your blade (rolling the edges will defeat all your honing work!) and shaving technique. Good luck with your new shaving venture, and I wish you the very best!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
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James Bond Skyfall film inspires psoriasis sufferer to dump multi-bladed cartridge razor & embrace cut throat shaving
For many men around the world shaving can be a very painful daily activity, and something that is a regarded as a chore and not the pleasure it should be.
Psoriasis sufferer Neil Jary was a guy you could put into this category, but fortunately for him after watching the latest James Bond film Skyfall he decided to dump his multi-bladed cartridge razor and instead opt for a cut throat shavette.
During a scene in Skyfall, British actress Naomie Harris gives 007, played by Daniel Craig, a close shave using a cut throat razor, whispering in his ear “sometimes the old ways are the best” as she performs the shave.
Neil works the shaving cream into his beard
Here is Neil’s story/journey:
“I have psoriasis and as such shaving became a chore. I would shave maybe once or twice a week when my partner hinted I was too stubbly by calling me “spike”!
I’ve been looking at straight razors for ages and the scene in Skyfall finally got my curiosity hooked and I quickly found The Shaving Shack! I’ve been a multi-bladed cartridge razor user since I started shaving; was it really the best a man can get? Surely if anyone knew best it was Bond!
Neil gets to work on the shave
One purchase of a shavette later (I didn’t think I would justify a full blown cut throat to begin with!) and I was eager to get going. My first attempt was fumbling to say the least but the closeness of the shave and lack of irritation proved to me that it might be worth carrying on and investing time and money to move forwards!
And to be honest it was thrilling to do! Nerve tingling and scary but thrilling none the less!
A few more purchases of some quality shaving cream, some pre shave oil and an alum block have followed and my second shave; after only two days (an almost unheard of short time span for shaving with my cartridge razor) proved to be even more successful! One very minor nick and the closest shave I’ve had in years!
Neil enjoys a close shave with his shavette razor
It actually feels like I’m pampering myself! Not something I’m used to being a born and bred rugged outdoors type of guy!! But it genuinely is a pleasure! I’ve yet to try the pre shave oil, but I’m actually looking forwards to the shave! I actually want my stubble to grow faster so I can “treat” myself again!
All in all a shocking discovery but one I’m happy to indulge in! It takes time, patience, and skill and focus! All things that make this method of shaving a pleasure! It’s something a man can master; a technique to learn and hone until it’s perfect! A man likes to have skills to practice and shaving with a straight razor is amongst the very greatest to learn I can now see!
So thanks to 007 James Bond and The Shaving Shack for getting me on the right path….now if only I can persuade the missus into some Miss Moneypenny role play I’ll be laughing!”
Looking good Neil
Do you have a wet shaving story to tell the world? If you would like see your article posted on The Shaving Shack Blog, email nick@shaving-shack.com.
Learn to shave like Bond, James Bond – Bluebeards launches cut throat razor shaving guide
Bluebeards release 007 inspired cut throat shaving video because ‘sometimes the old ways are the best’
Following a surge in cut throat razor sales with the release of new James Bond film, Skyfall, leading men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge have released a handy how-to film to ensure their customers know how to get the best out of their cut throat shave.
The short film, which has been made in collaboration with Jacks of London, is, of course, spy inspired by the film, and is full of top tips for the customer to achieve the correct technique when using their shiny new cut throat shavette razor.
Learn to cut throat shave the James Bond way
On the film’s cinema release, which included a saucy shaving scene with actors Daniel Craig and Naomie Harris, The Bluebeards Revenge saw their cut throat style razor sales surge ten-fold. The scene saw 007 receive a close shave using a cut throat razor with Harris uttering the words; ‘sometimes the old ways are the best.’
Shaving with a cut throat razor is certainly one of life’s pleasures as it will give you the closest possible shave. But it does take time to master the technique and you’ll certainly need a steady hand and plenty of practice.
The Bluebeards Revenge wants to ensure the customer really gets the best out of their buy so have put the film together to teach men how to get the best shave and women, how to give the best shave.
The handy shavette razor is similar to a straight or cut throat razor but is a more cost effective alternative and requires less maintenance as it uses changeable blades, meaning no stropping or honing. It can save time for those who are in a hurry, but still want to experience the luxury of a wet shave.
The Bluebeards Revenge crew visited Jacks of London’s upmarket Guilford barbershop to film the clip and resident Barber Sandra Morgan showcases her skills and talks you through the key elements and process involved when guaranteeing a great shave.
These include the correct way to prepare your face for a cut throat/shavette shave, holding the razor in the correct way, shaving in the right direction and after care for your skin when the shave is complete.
Justin Bullock, Marketing Manager for The Bluebeards Revenge, said: “We’ve had lots of customers wanting to ‘get a razor like Bond’ – it’s opened up the idea of cut-throat shaving to a whole new group of guys.
“Hopefully our cut throat shaving video will not only entertain, but it will also ensure men all around the world are clean shaven, and not stirred.”
Ask Aaron Q/A: Differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Aaron is asked a question about the differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Darren Collins, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, I’ve always used cartridge razors (5 blade Wilkinson Sword at the moment)…Is there much difference between a cut throat or safety razor and the system I use now? How easy is it to shave “properly”? Can you please recommend me a good quality razor (I have sensitive skin)?”
A safety razor like the Merkur Futur 761 Safety Razor will offer a far smoother shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Collins,
I believe there to be a significant difference and improvement switching from a multi-blade cartridge system to a cut-throat or safety razor. The technique is different, but with a little time I think it is easy to master and achieve superior shaves.
I recommend the Bluebeard’s “Scimitar“, the Muhle 89, the EJ DE89, the Merkur 34c and Merkur 38c as all good introductory razors to begin. I also recommend investing in a shaving brush, and cream or soap to complete your shaving system. Welcome to the club!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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James Bond ‘Skyfall’ Boosts Cut Throat Razor Sales By 405%
PRESS RELEASE FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Shaving retailer reports sharp increase in cut throat sales after 007 gets the shave of his life
The Shaving Shack, the UK’s leading online retailer of premium shaving products, has attributed the latest James Bond movie for a whopping 405% increase in sales of cut throat razors.
During a scene in Skyfall, British actress Naomie Harris gives 007, played by Daniel Craig, a close shave using a cut throat razor, whispering in his ear “sometimes the old ways are the best” as she performs the shave.
And The Shaving Shack says this intimate shaving scene is the reason for the dramatic sales surge over the last five days.
007 has inspired men to embrace the cut throat shave
The online retailer has also seen a 123% increase in web traffic since the film was released in the UK on October 26. Traffic from Internet searches for “cut throat razor” and “straight razor” have soared by a staggering 735% over the last five days, the firm added.
Nick Gibbens, The Shaving Shack’s Brand Director, believes Bond’s legendary style and iconic status have inspired men to try out a new method of wet shaving.
“Bond fans have an emotional attachment to 007, they love his Aston Martin cars, Omega watches and dinner suits. So it comes as no surprise that they have jumped on his love for cut throat razors.
“These luxury, old-school razors range in price from around £60 up to £300 so it’s fair to say that Bond fans are spending big to ensure they look as clean cut as 007.”
But Bond fans that can’t splash out up to £300 on a razor are instead opting for a cut-price shavette – a close relative to the cut throat razor with the difference being that the blades can be changed. Sales of shavettes on The Shaving Shack website have risen by 509% since the release of Skyfall, with bumper sales of the budget £9.99 Bluebeards Revenge Shavette.
The Shaving Shack says it’s delighted to see an increasing number of men ditching the multi-bladed cartridge razor in favour of a straight but they are also keen to point out the increased complexity of a cut throat shave.
“Shaving with a cut throat razor is certainly one of life’s pleasures as it will give you the closest possible shave. But it does take time to master the technique and you’ll certainly need a steady hand and plenty of practice,” said Mr Gibbens.
“We strongly advise that all men take the time to read up on the correct technique.”
-Ends -
Notes to editors
For more information, please contact: Nick Gibbens on telephone 01752 898191 or email nick@shaving-shack.com.
About The Shaving Shack:
The Shaving Shack is one of the UK’s leading online retailers of high quality wet shaving accessories. The firm stocks high end razors, shaving brushes, double edge razor blades, shaving creams, soaps, bowls, pre-shave lotions and gels, alum bocks and aftershave lotions. Leading brand names featured on the website include The Bluebeards Revenge, Merkur, Cyril Salter, DR Harris, Tabac, Truefitt and Hill, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Kent and Parker.
More information can be found at http://www.shaving-shack.com.
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Shave like James Bond (007) – Top tips for the perfect cut throat shave
Ask Aaron Q/A: Do you recommend a three-pass shave?
Aaron answers an excellent question about the merits & pitfalls of a three-pass shave
Steven Anders, from the UK, asks:
“I am new to straight razor shaving and have been using one for about a month now. Having just about gotten used to the closeness of the shave and technique I am confused about the advice online. I have seen a lot of companines, Taylors included, which advocate a three-pass shave including against the grain, but then others say you should not do this under any circumstance. Could you claify this for me please?”
The main thing is finding what works for you, and sticking with it
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Anders,
Welcome to the subjective and highly opinionated side of wetshaving! The opinions are many and strong on the subject of passes and grain direction. Here’s my take on it all: do what’s best for your face. I personally do three passes going with, across, and against the grain. That’s what seems to feel best for my face and lifestyle.
Honestly, it’s up to you. If you feel that your face handles against the grain well, and you like the closeness, by all means go for it! I know gentlemen who can’t and so they make a second across the grain pass. The main thing is finding what works for you, and sticking with it!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Shave like James Bond (007) – Top tips for the perfect cut throat shave
In the latest James Bond film Skyfall, British actress Naomie Harris is quite cutting edge.
She gives 007 (Daniel Craig) a very close shave in one intimate scene in the 23rd installment of the secret agent franchise.
Naomie uses a cut throat/straight razor to give James the shave of his live. “Sometimes the old ways are the best,” Naomie says as she shaves him with the iconic razor.
The 36-year-old has since revealed she was sent to barber shop school to practise shaving balloons to prepare for the steamy scene.
Shaving with a cut throat razor is certainly one of life’s pleasures as it will give you the closest possible shave. But it does take time to master the technique and you’ll certainly need a steady hand and plenty of practice.
But if you’re looking to change your shavings habits and take the exciting journey into straight razor shaving, then these tips will help you on your way.
Preparing your face for a cut throat shave
The key to a painless shave is to use plenty of warm or hot water before shaving. Either have a bath, shower or use a hot flannel to soften the bristles and open up the pores of the skin.
Make sure you massage your chosen shaving cream thoroughly into your stubble or beard. Use your fingers or a decent shaving brush. For straight cut shaving to work, the lather must not be allowed to dry.
Holding and using the razor
Hold the razor with your dominant hand. Your thumb should be on the underside of the shank against the shoulder. Your index, middle and ring fingers should be on the opposite side (top) of the shank. The handle should be between your ring and little finger, with the little finger resting on the crescent shaped tang. Some people prefer to have the ring finger on the tang also, but this is a matter of choice.
Now for the shave! With your other hand, stretch the skin as tight as you can get it. It is recommended to hold the blade at a 30 degree angle to the skin otherwise you’ll get cut! A useful way of starting is to lie the blade flat against your cheek and then lift the spine to the desired angle of 30 degrees before applying your first stroke. Use very little pressure and apply even strokes with the razor in the direction of the hair growth.
Below is an example of the general direction you might want to shave using your straight razor.
Once you’ve finished with your first shave you can then rinse, relather and shave again. This time though, you should go against the grain/direction of hair growth.
When you have finished shaving, rinse the shaved area with warm water and then follow up with a cool water rinse to close the pores.
If you cut yourself use an Alum Block!
Straight Razor Care
When you’ve finished shaving, rinse the razor in some running water. Dry it by dabbing it with a cloth. It is also good practice to apply a little bit of machine oil or similar to help prevent the blade from rusting.
You will be looking as good as 007 in no time…..
Stropping the razor
To maintain a keen edge on the razor regular stropping is a must. Stropping aligns the edge of the blade so that the steel is pointing in the same direction -note that it is not sharpening which is called ‘honing’ and is done using a wetstone. Simply attach one end of the strop to an immovable object, like a bedpost, and hold it taut with the other end in your other hand.
Using light pressure, run the blade horizontally up the leather surface, with the blade flat against the leather and the sharp side facing you. At the end of the stroke, flip the blade over so it’s again facing you as you run the blade horizontally back down the strop. It is recommended to do this about 40-60 times.
The Shaving Shack sells a great selection of quality cut throat razors. And don’t forget we offer flat fee delivery on all orders placed at our online shaving shop.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Which is better & easier – A hanging strop or a hand strop?
Antonio García Palomo, from Spain, asks:
“I’m going to get a strop (fan of wet shaving but using safety razor so far). My only doubt is a hanging or a hand strop. Awaiting for your advice.”
Dual Leather Hand Strop
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Palomo, Honestly I use a safety razor most of the time, however I do keep in touch and read about what happens with the straight razor world. Both strops have their place, but from what I understand the hanging strop will be more suitable to the needs of a beginning straight razor user. That would be the one I would recommend.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Preparing a straight razor for its first shave
Jason Maloney, from the UK, asks:
“I recently bought my first Dovo of Solingen razor, I’ve also bought Canadian 2500 grit travel stone, and a strop. When I first used my blade I thought it would be like a hot knife through butter, but I found the shave very hard in the aspect the hair on my face was pulling. It felt like the blade was not sharp enough? But there supposed to be shave ready? I also steamed my face so the hair was really soft and I lathered up properly as on the tutorials on Youtube, can you tell me what I’m doing wrong?”
Dovo of Solingen Shavette (Polished Steel Handle)
AARON SAYS
“Mr Maloney,
Despite their claims, most razors do not come shave ready, sadly. I would definitely suggest getting it honed before trying to shave much more with it. If you are going to hone it yourself, read up on it thoroughly and practice practice practice. It’s a difficult art, but very worthy once you learn. You’ll want to get progressively finer stones as well, especially as high as 8000, 10000, 12000 for that fine, sharp edge.
I am a big proponent of preparing your face to shave. However I will caution that you can over-prep with hot water and steam causing your face to be tender. I doubt this was the case from your description, but wanted to provide you with the caveat. I wish you all the best on your straight razor journey!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Top tips on how to shave with a straight razor
Ben Stone, from the UK, asks:
“What would be your best piece of advice for someone who has never used a cut throat/straight razor before? What kit would I need to buy and how would I start my first cut throat shave?”
Cyril Salter Solingen 5/8 Open Razor Round Point
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Stone,
I’m glad you want to take the plunge into straight razor shaving! You’ll need at the least a straight razor and a strop. The strop is a leather strap similar to a wide belt that helps align the metal on the edge of the blade keeping it razor sharp. This is your basic kit! Although if you don’t have them already you’ll want a shaving brush and a good quality shaving cream and aftershave balm. And since you’re beginning with a straight razor, I’d recommend an alum block or styptic pencil because nicks will be inevitable at first until you get the technique down.
Dual Leather Hand Strop
To begin your shave I recommend showering or applying a hot towel to moisten and soften the hairs. Apply a pre-shave oil and lather up your shave cream with the shaving brush either in a bowl or on your face. Shave very gently with as little pressure as possible letting the razor do the work slicing the hairs. Reapply the lather with your shaving brush for each pass. Since you are starting out I recommend just doing one or two passes with and then across the direction of hair growth until you get the technique down. You may want to continue using your current razor to clean up any missed spots. Once you are done shaving rinse off with warm then cool water and apply the alum block or styptic pencil as needed then apply your post-shave balm.
Welcome to the world of wetshaving! Hope you enjoy and if there is anything else I can do, please contact us again!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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