Preventing, treating & curing: Razor burn, redness, shaving irritation, bumps & ingrown hairs
One of the more frequent questions we receive for the Ask Aaron articles is with shaving blemishes and problems affecting the skin. Many complain of razor burn, redness, irritation, bumps, ingrown hairs and many other maladies. These issues can make shaving difficult at best and painful at worst! Thankfully there are many solutions to these problems to offer relief!
Razor rash is a problem for many men around the world
First let us deal with what is the most frequent complaint, razor burn. Razor burn is usually a redness soreness, or inflammation of the skin. These conditions are cause by the blade scraping against the skin removing the top layers of epidermis. To ease the inflammation and burn, if possible, give your face several days rest from shaving. Apply a moisturizing after shave balm such as Proraso, The Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Men-U, Castle Forbes, and E-shave to aid in helping the skin to heal. Use as little pressure as possible while shaving. If you are shaving with a double-edge razor make sure the angle of the razor is around thirty degrees, and you keep your wrist locked using your whole arm for the movement instead.
Ingrown hairs are less common than razor burn, but the more painful affliction shavers complain about. With an ingrown hair the hair grows under the surface of the skin causing damage, spots, and sometimes infection. The human hair has the same hardness as copper wire of the same diameter, so no wonder it hurts as a freshly cut hair grows and digs under the skin! If you currently have ingrown hairs avoid shaving the area for a few days and use a gentle scrub to bring the hair up to the skin’s surface. You can also use an old, clean toothbrush to brush at the hair and pull it to the surface as well. Keep the area well moisturized with lotion or balm to aid the healing process. Another remedy is crushing and creating a simple paste out of an aspirin or vitamin C. Applying the paste to the affected area helps to apply the healing acids in the aspirin and vitamin C and gives some pain relief as well.
To prevent ingrown hairs avoid shaving against the direction of hair growth
To prevent ingrown hairs avoid shaving against the direction of hair growth, especially if your hair grows closely parallel to the surface of the skin. Also consider using a razor that has as few blades as possible to shave with. Modern cartridge razors work on the principal of the first blade pulling the first hair up, the following blades cutting the hair, and the cut hair settling back down under the surface of the skin. With the freshly cut and sharp hair this is an immediate setup for an ingrown hair, especially if you already have trouble with them or have very curly hair.
“Masking” or a discoloration of the shaved area of skin is a malady that can be caused by poor technique or product, too much pressure, an allergic reaction to a certain ingredient (lime and sandalwood essential oils, or preservatives being the most common irritants), or a variety of other common factors. As with other troubles examine razor angle and technique, use a healing ski food or balm, and if possible allow the skin to rest for several days before shaving again.
Dumping the multi-bladed cartridge razor and investing in a DE safety razor can help to improve the quality of a shave
If you use a multi-bladed cartridge razor and are experiencing these or other skin problems, try a transition to a double edge razor. Many of the men we have corresponded with experience an alleviation of symptoms after switching. If your symptoms persist after trying the solutions above or worsen consider a consultation with your doctor or dermatologist as there may be underlying issues that may need addressing. We hope that if you are experiencing some of the problems above that you can find some relief in this advice soon! As always we wish you smooth and happy shaving!
Ask Aaron Q/A: I’m struggling to get a decent shave from a DE razor – What am I doing wrong?
Aaron is asked a question from a DE newbie who is struggling to get a decent shave with his Edwin Jagger safety razor
Brendan Nichols, from the UK, asks:
“I’ve just bought my first DE saftey razor (EJ CHATSWOTH) and I have also invested in a Kent BK12 shaving brush to compliment it. I’ve been using my new razor now for 3 days but can’t seem to get a close shave like I did with a Mach 3 razor? I’m using feather blades with the razor but still can’t get a close shave (FEEL LIKE AN ELECTRIC SHAVE) and find myself going over the same parts 3 or 4 times, which for me is not good as I have very sensitive skin. As a result of this my skin has become blotchy and I’m already contemplating on giving up with DE shaving and going back to a Mach 3? I use good quality shaving cream (Geo f trumper) so I know its not this. I’m not sure if it’s just me being new to DE shaving and not getting my razor angle right? Not sure what to do I have spent a lot of money on my new razor but also dont want to irritate my skin any more. Do u have any suggestions please?”
Edwin Jagger Chatsworth Double Edge Razor (Chrome)
AARON SAYS
“Mr Nichols,
Well this is definitely not the start we want you to have to traditional shaving! You definitely have fine equipment to work with and I do not see that as a problem.
Try going back to the basics and making sure your technique is where it’s supposed to be. Are you creating a good thick lather that looks like meringue, is your razor angle around 30 degrees, lock your wrist and make the shaving motions with your arm, little to no pressure and other pieces of technique.
I also would consider switching the blade, Feathers can be harsh to a beginner and Derby’s, Astras, Personnas or Wilkinson-Sword blades may work better. Another thought, make sure the secondary plate (the one the blade rests on) isn’t upside down. It’s easy to do, even sometimes the more experienced ones of us (including myself here) have been known to do so.
Please reply back and let us know if this helps! We will do what we can to make sure your shaving experience is a smooth one!
Cheers,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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The ultimate guide to double edge shaving – DE shaving for beginners
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to double edge shaving
Here at Shaving Shack, our mailbox is flooded with gents often complaining, and rightly so, about the high costs of cartridges and asking advice about how to get started traditionally shaving. It is undisputable that shaving with a double edge razor is less expensive than using modern cartridges. Just a simple cost comparison shows that for the same price of a pack of 4 replacement cartridges, you can buy 50-100 double edge blades. We love hearing from you our loyal customers and would like to offer you some practical points on how to get started!
The first place to start would be the equipment: razor, blades, brush, soap/cream, and aftershave. It seems like a lot, but once you get these main purchases down they will last you for many years, decades, or life. As with many purchases start with what you can afford, and as you get used to traditional shaving explore and find which items suit your needs best.
Double Edge Safety Razors
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Your razor should be one with good reviews and from a reputable company such as Merkur, Muhle, Edwin Jagger, or The Bluebeards Revenge. I personally recommend The Bluebeards Scimitar, Merkur 34C, and Edwin Jagger DE89 as great beginner razors.
Shaving Soaps & Creams
The Bluebeards Revenge is one of the best shaving creams on the market
Soaps and creams can be found in a huge variety of scents and flavours. If you know your water type, creams tend to work better in hard water and soaps better in soft water. However, this is not a hard and fast rule, and good technique can overcome most water quality issues. Many of the most popular companies to produce soaps and creams are Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Cyril Salter, Mitchell’s Wool Fat, and Proraso amoung many others.
Double Edge Razor Blades
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience, but it is best to start with a good standard blade and as your technique improves, then find a blade that more suits your face. Some of the most popular blades are Derby, Feather, Personna, Shark, and Wilkinson-Sword.
Shaving Brushes
A shaving brush can improve the overall quality of a shave
An overwhelming variety of choices can be found for the shaving brush, with the hair type being the most obvious. Choices of boar bristle, badger hair, and a variety of synthetics are available on the market. If your convictions lead you to stay away from animal products, you are in luck as many advancements in recent years have led to great strides in synthetic fibers being able to function as natural hair. The Men-U brushes have received rave reviews in their ability to hold water and produce good lather. The Bluebeards Vanguard brush should also be a good bet to try as well. For a natural hair brush, boar bristle brushes tend to be less expensive, but perform well. The Semogue 830 and 1305 are quite popular, as is the Vulfix Grosvenor, and the Bluebeards Revenge Dubloon. The badger hair brush has been used for many many years, and is the most desirable. It has a superior water retaining quality, softness on the face, and a superior lathering ability. There are many to choose from and a few recommended would be the Bluebeard Privateer, the Kent BK4, Simpsons Duke, with Plisson being the cream of the crop. As mentioned above buy the best you can afford, the quality will reward you with a better feel, and longevity.
The Perfect Shaving Routine
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be a pleasure and not a chore
To perform the shave, first shower or hold a hot wet towel to the face; this softens the outer layer of hair allowing for an easier cut. Prepare the brush by soaking it in water, then gently shaking the majority of the water out. Gently press the tips of the brush into the cream or soap gathering enough material to shave with. Lather your soap in a bowl or on your face using a whipping motion and adding water as needed to create a thick lather that resembles whipped cream or meringue. Holding your razor against the face an an approximate 30 degree angle, shave with as little pressure as possible in the direction of hair growth. Remember to use short strokes and rinse the razor often. After you have completed the first pass, re-lather and shave across the direction of hair growth, then rinse the lather from your face. After rinsing apply your choice of aftershave, whether a balm or alcohol based splash.
Shaving Tips
A few tips as you improve your technique: keep your wrist locked and use a whole arm motion, a pre-shave oil will help those gents with tougher beards to retain moisture and provide glide, leaving 2-3 days between shaves gives the skin rest and leaves longer hair to shave. With these general gear guides and tips we hope you will have the information to choice your equipment well and have a fabulous shave!
If you have any questions for Aaron please submit them here.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Sore skin & small blood spots on chin & neck after shaving
Aaron is asked a question about sore skin & small blood spots on chin and neck after shaving
Andrew James, from the UK, asks:
“Hi there, new to double edge shaving from 18 years of cartridge shaving. Using Merkur HD and only tried Merkur blades so far. First pass WTG generally ok but tried second pass ATG yesterday (after re soaping) which left sore skin and small blood spots on chin and neck – ouch. What blade should I try next? Also, maybe I should stick to one pass, but I would like to do at least two to get a pretty close shave. Would value advice please. Ps; this blog facility is great.”
Take time, focus on basic technique, and enjoy the process, says Aaron
AARON SAYS
“Mr. James,
I would first make sure that you are developing your lather correctly, have a good blade angle (it should be about 30 degrees), and preparing your beard well by either showering or a hot towel.
Next I would say that since you are new to shaving with a single edge razor don’t shave against the grain. At the most right now go across, or perpendicular, to the beard growth. You may also take a second pass with the grain too, to increase the closeness of the shave. Shaving against the grain is a little bit advanced, and some say unnecessary, although it is something I practice for a close shave.
If you are looking to change the blades, I recommend the Israeli made blades, Astras, Derby, Lord, Sharks, and Wilkinson-Sword blades. I don’t recommend Feather blades until you are more comfortable with your shaving technique, they are incredibly sharp and unforgiving of mistakes.
I realize this is a lot of information at once. Take time, focus on basic technique, and enjoy the process! Soon you will be shaving easily and nick-free in no time.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Palm stropping & corking of razor blades
Aaron is asked a question about double edge razor blade harshness
Grant Letham, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I’m enjoying my double edge shaving experience with my Edwin Jagger D89. Currently using routine of shower, King of Shaves shaving oil, lather – proraso or arko, 2 pass shave – 1 with and 1 across grain, cold water rinse and then moisturiser. I’m finding the first shave with a fresh blade can be risky in terms of nicks and cuts. Any clues as to how I can minimise / avoid this?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Letham,
I too experience new blade harshness occasionally. I have heard this can be due to tiny burrs left over from the manufacturing process. There are two methods I would recommend trying: corking and palm stropping.
For corking, take a natural cork stopper from a wine bottle, and run the blade edge into the cor gently two or three times.
For palm stopping, grasp the blade in the middle and rub the blade away from the edge on the thick of your palm. This can be a little bit tricky, so watch the following video tutorial to see exactly what I mean: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ogq4wfpT7hc. This should help with those new blade blues!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Redness around the mouth
Aaron is asked a question about skin irritation and redness around the mouth
John Ramsay, from the UK, asks:
“Hi, I just bought the osma alum bloc and started to use it after shaving. I started by wetting the block and applying it to my face, I let it set in for a minute and then rinsed off, then applied some aftershave lotion. But there was still redness around my mouth -am I doing something wrong?”
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Ramsey,
The redness around your mouth could be a variety of things. It coud be irritation from the block, or shaving irritation. The mouth area tends to be one of the hardest areas to shave. I would pay special attention to the angle of your razor, rub on the alum block then immediately wash off, and be sure to use a good moisturizing balm. If you continue to experience redness, reply below and we’l try to troubleshoot some more! I hope this helps and gives you some relief.
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Learn to shave like Bond, James Bond – Bluebeards launches cut throat razor shaving guide
Bluebeards release 007 inspired cut throat shaving video because ‘sometimes the old ways are the best’
Following a surge in cut throat razor sales with the release of new James Bond film, Skyfall, leading men’s grooming brand The Bluebeards Revenge have released a handy how-to film to ensure their customers know how to get the best out of their cut throat shave.
The short film, which has been made in collaboration with Jacks of London, is, of course, spy inspired by the film, and is full of top tips for the customer to achieve the correct technique when using their shiny new cut throat shavette razor.
Learn to cut throat shave the James Bond way
On the film’s cinema release, which included a saucy shaving scene with actors Daniel Craig and Naomie Harris, The Bluebeards Revenge saw their cut throat style razor sales surge ten-fold. The scene saw 007 receive a close shave using a cut throat razor with Harris uttering the words; ‘sometimes the old ways are the best.’
Shaving with a cut throat razor is certainly one of life’s pleasures as it will give you the closest possible shave. But it does take time to master the technique and you’ll certainly need a steady hand and plenty of practice.
The Bluebeards Revenge wants to ensure the customer really gets the best out of their buy so have put the film together to teach men how to get the best shave and women, how to give the best shave.
The handy shavette razor is similar to a straight or cut throat razor but is a more cost effective alternative and requires less maintenance as it uses changeable blades, meaning no stropping or honing. It can save time for those who are in a hurry, but still want to experience the luxury of a wet shave.
The Bluebeards Revenge crew visited Jacks of London’s upmarket Guilford barbershop to film the clip and resident Barber Sandra Morgan showcases her skills and talks you through the key elements and process involved when guaranteeing a great shave.
These include the correct way to prepare your face for a cut throat/shavette shave, holding the razor in the correct way, shaving in the right direction and after care for your skin when the shave is complete.
Justin Bullock, Marketing Manager for The Bluebeards Revenge, said: “We’ve had lots of customers wanting to ‘get a razor like Bond’ – it’s opened up the idea of cut-throat shaving to a whole new group of guys.
“Hopefully our cut throat shaving video will not only entertain, but it will also ensure men all around the world are clean shaven, and not stirred.”
Ask Aaron Q/A: Skin irritation and razor bumps on neck
Aaron is asked a question about combatting shaving rash and bumps on the neck
Gavin James, from the UK, asks:
“I have a Merkur 34C and have been using Taylors shaving cream and a badger hair shaving brush. I’ve tried numerous different blades but still get terrible rash around the neck and then little spots a day or two later. The hair on my neck just doesn’t seem to want to play nicely. Normally I shave in strokes towards to the ground on my neck then stop about half way and then go upwards. The rash can also last this long. An electric razor just makes me sore for ages and doesn’t cut nicely. It’s also the same with any supermarket sold razor. I’ve tried them all. Would this Bluebeards Revenge shaving cream make that much different? What blades would you recommend for the very sensitive. Please help me be as smooth as a baby’s bum.”
Ingrowing hairs are a major problem for men
AARON SAYS
“Mr. James,
I completely understand you frustrations, the neck for me is the hardest area to shave and if I’m not careful I get rash and bumps too.
The first thing I would advise is looking which direction your hair grows in this area. Once you determine which direction the hair grows, I would suggest shaving on first pass with the grain, and then across/perpendicular to the grain. Shaving against the grain is difficult at best, and can cause irritation.
The next technique I would advise is to stretch the skin taught (but not overly tight!) creating a more flat shaving surface. This also makes reaching those pesky neck hairs easier. The last thing I would advise is using an aftershave balm. Keeping moisture on and in the skin helps the skin stay healthy and lets the hair grow out easier, especially if trying to grow into the skin.
Hopefully these tips will help you on your quest for the “Baby Bum Smooth” shave you’re looking for! Please let me know how they work!
Smooth shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Ask Aaron Q/A: Do you recommend a three-pass shave?
Aaron answers an excellent question about the merits & pitfalls of a three-pass shave
Steven Anders, from the UK, asks:
“I am new to straight razor shaving and have been using one for about a month now. Having just about gotten used to the closeness of the shave and technique I am confused about the advice online. I have seen a lot of companines, Taylors included, which advocate a three-pass shave including against the grain, but then others say you should not do this under any circumstance. Could you claify this for me please?”
The main thing is finding what works for you, and sticking with it
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Anders,
Welcome to the subjective and highly opinionated side of wetshaving! The opinions are many and strong on the subject of passes and grain direction. Here’s my take on it all: do what’s best for your face. I personally do three passes going with, across, and against the grain. That’s what seems to feel best for my face and lifestyle.
Honestly, it’s up to you. If you feel that your face handles against the grain well, and you like the closeness, by all means go for it! I know gentlemen who can’t and so they make a second across the grain pass. The main thing is finding what works for you, and sticking with it!
Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
CLICK HERE TO ASK AARON YOUR QUESTION
Shave like James Bond (007) – Top tips for the perfect cut throat shave
In the latest James Bond film Skyfall, British actress Naomie Harris is quite cutting edge.
She gives 007 (Daniel Craig) a very close shave in one intimate scene in the 23rd installment of the secret agent franchise.
Naomie uses a cut throat/straight razor to give James the shave of his live. “Sometimes the old ways are the best,” Naomie says as she shaves him with the iconic razor.
The 36-year-old has since revealed she was sent to barber shop school to practise shaving balloons to prepare for the steamy scene.
Shaving with a cut throat razor is certainly one of life’s pleasures as it will give you the closest possible shave. But it does take time to master the technique and you’ll certainly need a steady hand and plenty of practice.
But if you’re looking to change your shavings habits and take the exciting journey into straight razor shaving, then these tips will help you on your way.
Preparing your face for a cut throat shave
The key to a painless shave is to use plenty of warm or hot water before shaving. Either have a bath, shower or use a hot flannel to soften the bristles and open up the pores of the skin.
Make sure you massage your chosen shaving cream thoroughly into your stubble or beard. Use your fingers or a decent shaving brush. For straight cut shaving to work, the lather must not be allowed to dry.
Holding and using the razor
Hold the razor with your dominant hand. Your thumb should be on the underside of the shank against the shoulder. Your index, middle and ring fingers should be on the opposite side (top) of the shank. The handle should be between your ring and little finger, with the little finger resting on the crescent shaped tang. Some people prefer to have the ring finger on the tang also, but this is a matter of choice.
Now for the shave! With your other hand, stretch the skin as tight as you can get it. It is recommended to hold the blade at a 30 degree angle to the skin otherwise you’ll get cut! A useful way of starting is to lie the blade flat against your cheek and then lift the spine to the desired angle of 30 degrees before applying your first stroke. Use very little pressure and apply even strokes with the razor in the direction of the hair growth.
Below is an example of the general direction you might want to shave using your straight razor.
Once you’ve finished with your first shave you can then rinse, relather and shave again. This time though, you should go against the grain/direction of hair growth.
When you have finished shaving, rinse the shaved area with warm water and then follow up with a cool water rinse to close the pores.
If you cut yourself use an Alum Block!
Straight Razor Care
When you’ve finished shaving, rinse the razor in some running water. Dry it by dabbing it with a cloth. It is also good practice to apply a little bit of machine oil or similar to help prevent the blade from rusting.
You will be looking as good as 007 in no time…..
Stropping the razor
To maintain a keen edge on the razor regular stropping is a must. Stropping aligns the edge of the blade so that the steel is pointing in the same direction -note that it is not sharpening which is called ‘honing’ and is done using a wetstone. Simply attach one end of the strop to an immovable object, like a bedpost, and hold it taut with the other end in your other hand.
Using light pressure, run the blade horizontally up the leather surface, with the blade flat against the leather and the sharp side facing you. At the end of the stroke, flip the blade over so it’s again facing you as you run the blade horizontally back down the strop. It is recommended to do this about 40-60 times.
The Shaving Shack sells a great selection of quality cut throat razors. And don’t forget we offer flat fee delivery on all orders placed at our online shaving shop.
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