Safety razor buying guide – How to choose the right DE safety razor
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to choosing the right double edge razor
Often the question asked by our customers after “How do I get started traditionally shaving?” comes “Which razor do I use?”. With so many varieties and choices on the market it is no doubt that the choices would be overwhelming. Three piece, two piece; adjustable versus non-adjustable; turn to open doors; chrome, satin, red, blue or black, ivory; aggressive versus mild shavers, no wonder it is confusing! Let’s shed some light on the essentials, how they will affect your shave, and some recommended models for you to try.
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
As you learn the technique of shaving with a double edge razor a milder shaving razor would be better than a more aggressive shaving razor. The milder razor would be more forgiving of poor technique or mistakes reducing the risk of nicks and cuts. This mildness or aggressiveness comes down to blade exposure: the lesser blade exposure the milder the shave and conversely the more blade exposed the more aggressive the shave. There are articles on shaving forums across the web identifying the exact blade gap measured in microns, but for our purposes here we won’t be that detailed. Typically those razors that are two or three pieces, and those that are non-adjustable are more mild. The noticeable exception to this rule is the Muhle R41, which despite being a three piece razor is one of the more aggressive shaving razors on the market.
The shape of your face and body is a thing to consider. If you have a smaller face, a razor with a large head such as the Merkur Vision or Futur would prove impractical to shave with. Also if you have large hands you might want to consider a razor with a longer handle. Razors such as the Merkur 38c Barberpole, Progress, 25c and 23c all either are or have long handled versions. Another point of consideration is grip and steadiness of hand. If you have concerns about being able to hold your razor, choose one with knurling (the criss-cross pattern cut into the metal), it will provide a rougher surface with less slippage.
The Goodfella Chrome Safety Razor
For our beginning shavers we recommend the Bluebeards Scimitar, Muhle R89, Merkur 38c barberpole, Edwin Jagger DE89 and Parker 94r. These razors all have good reputations within the shaving community, and have a lesser blade gap. As you progress in experience and technique the need to upgrade your razor or buy another may come. For the more experienced shaver we recommend the Merkur Progress, 37c Slant, Muhle R41, and Merkur Futur amoung others. These razors are aggressive in nature, or can adjust their blade gap from a mild exposure to a much wider gap. Another option would be the open comb razor. The comb allows for a closer exposure to the blade and the comb acts as a guide for the hair leading it directly to the blade. Gentlemen with hair that grows closely to the skin, or with tough beards seem to benefit best from an open comb such as the Merkur 23c, 15c, Fatip Piccolo, and Goodfella.
Whatever your needs are: shaving fine or coarse hair, thin or thick, knowing your face and knowing the right razor to suit your needs will go a long way in improving your grooming experience.
The ultimate guide to double edge shaving – DE shaving for beginners
Wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger’s simple guide to double edge shaving
Here at Shaving Shack, our mailbox is flooded with gents often complaining, and rightly so, about the high costs of cartridges and asking advice about how to get started traditionally shaving. It is undisputable that shaving with a double edge razor is less expensive than using modern cartridges. Just a simple cost comparison shows that for the same price of a pack of 4 replacement cartridges, you can buy 50-100 double edge blades. We love hearing from you our loyal customers and would like to offer you some practical points on how to get started!
The first place to start would be the equipment: razor, blades, brush, soap/cream, and aftershave. It seems like a lot, but once you get these main purchases down they will last you for many years, decades, or life. As with many purchases start with what you can afford, and as you get used to traditional shaving explore and find which items suit your needs best.
Double Edge Safety Razors
A safety razor will give you a much closer shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
Your razor should be one with good reviews and from a reputable company such as Merkur, Muhle, Edwin Jagger, or The Bluebeards Revenge. I personally recommend The Bluebeards Scimitar, Merkur 34C, and Edwin Jagger DE89 as great beginner razors.
Shaving Soaps & Creams
The Bluebeards Revenge is one of the best shaving creams on the market
Soaps and creams can be found in a huge variety of scents and flavours. If you know your water type, creams tend to work better in hard water and soaps better in soft water. However, this is not a hard and fast rule, and good technique can overcome most water quality issues. Many of the most popular companies to produce soaps and creams are Bluebeards, Taylor of Old Bond Street, Cyril Salter, Mitchell’s Wool Fat, and Proraso amoung many others.
Double Edge Razor Blades
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience
Blades are the most subjective of the wet-shaving experience, but it is best to start with a good standard blade and as your technique improves, then find a blade that more suits your face. Some of the most popular blades are Derby, Feather, Personna, Shark, and Wilkinson-Sword.
Shaving Brushes
A shaving brush can improve the overall quality of a shave
An overwhelming variety of choices can be found for the shaving brush, with the hair type being the most obvious. Choices of boar bristle, badger hair, and a variety of synthetics are available on the market. If your convictions lead you to stay away from animal products, you are in luck as many advancements in recent years have led to great strides in synthetic fibers being able to function as natural hair. The Men-U brushes have received rave reviews in their ability to hold water and produce good lather. The Bluebeards Vanguard brush should also be a good bet to try as well. For a natural hair brush, boar bristle brushes tend to be less expensive, but perform well. The Semogue 830 and 1305 are quite popular, as is the Vulfix Grosvenor, and the Bluebeards Revenge Dubloon. The badger hair brush has been used for many many years, and is the most desirable. It has a superior water retaining quality, softness on the face, and a superior lathering ability. There are many to choose from and a few recommended would be the Bluebeard Privateer, the Kent BK4, Simpsons Duke, with Plisson being the cream of the crop. As mentioned above buy the best you can afford, the quality will reward you with a better feel, and longevity.
The Perfect Shaving Routine
Shaving with a double edge safety razor should be a pleasure and not a chore
To perform the shave, first shower or hold a hot wet towel to the face; this softens the outer layer of hair allowing for an easier cut. Prepare the brush by soaking it in water, then gently shaking the majority of the water out. Gently press the tips of the brush into the cream or soap gathering enough material to shave with. Lather your soap in a bowl or on your face using a whipping motion and adding water as needed to create a thick lather that resembles whipped cream or meringue. Holding your razor against the face an an approximate 30 degree angle, shave with as little pressure as possible in the direction of hair growth. Remember to use short strokes and rinse the razor often. After you have completed the first pass, re-lather and shave across the direction of hair growth, then rinse the lather from your face. After rinsing apply your choice of aftershave, whether a balm or alcohol based splash.
Shaving Tips
A few tips as you improve your technique: keep your wrist locked and use a whole arm motion, a pre-shave oil will help those gents with tougher beards to retain moisture and provide glide, leaving 2-3 days between shaves gives the skin rest and leaves longer hair to shave. With these general gear guides and tips we hope you will have the information to choice your equipment well and have a fabulous shave!
If you have any questions for Aaron please submit them here.
Ask Aaron Q/A: Differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Aaron is asked a question about the differences between a multi-bladed cartridge razor, a cut throat & safety razor
Darren Collins, from the UK, asks:
“Hi Aaron, I’ve always used cartridge razors (5 blade Wilkinson Sword at the moment)…Is there much difference between a cut throat or safety razor and the system I use now? How easy is it to shave “properly”? Can you please recommend me a good quality razor (I have sensitive skin)?”
A safety razor like the Merkur Futur 761 Safety Razor will offer a far smoother shave than a multi bladed cartridge razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Collins,
I believe there to be a significant difference and improvement switching from a multi-blade cartridge system to a cut-throat or safety razor. The technique is different, but with a little time I think it is easy to master and achieve superior shaves.
I recommend the Bluebeard’s “Scimitar“, the Muhle 89, the EJ DE89, the Merkur 34c and Merkur 38c as all good introductory razors to begin. I also recommend investing in a shaving brush, and cream or soap to complete your shaving system. Welcome to the club!
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Problems with shaving under the chin area
Aaron is asked a question about shaving under the chin
Nigel Watford, from the UK, asks:
“Currently using an Edwin Jagger DE89, with Gillette 7 o clock razor blades which I find are the best blades for me. Looking to change the razor. The size is fine but I’m struggling under the chin area. Thinking about a adjustable razor like a Merkur. Can you advise on a razor please? The blades and cream are fine.”
Merkur 37C Slant Bar DE Safety Razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Watford,
I’m glad you have a good set that works well for you. Under the chin is a common problem for many men and requires some good care and attention. An adjustable razor is a good place to start, and I highly recommend the Merkur Progress and the Merkur Futur.
Another product I would suggest is the Merkur 37c/ Slant razor. Using these razors can definitely help on your quest! Thanks for your question!!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Can you recommend me a safety razor & a shave cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Aaron is asked to recommend a safety razor and a shaving cream for tough beard growth & sensitive skin
Luke Cressey, from the UK, asks:
“Hello again, I have a tough beard and sensitive skin, and was wondering what safety razor do you recommend that I try? I have never used a safety razor before but have a Bluebeards Revenge disposable blade cut-throat razor but never was quite sure what the correct angle is to use it and pressure. Does a safety razor do these for you already? I know there is some technique to it, and I know it takes time so I was wondering if you could please tell me which one you recommend and where do I go to find the info I need. I learn much better by watching than reading, especially when it comes to shaving. Thank you for taking the time to read this email it is much appreciated. Because I have a tough beard should I stay away from shaving creams that don’t lather directly on the face to safe the heat and moisture? Thanks again”
The Merkur 38C Barberpole is a heavy duty, long handled razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr Cressey,
I’m glad you are considering a safety razor! I understand your position, as I too have a tough beard and sensitive skin. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Muhle 89, the Bluebeard’s “scimitar”, the Edwin Jagger DE89, or the Merkur 38c “barberpole”. These are all great introductory razors. They do not set the angle for you, that is part of the technique you have to learn, but they are certainly more forgiving than a cut-throat or straight razor.
To answer your shaving cream question, I would stay away from canned foams and gels that use aerosols and other propellants. These contain large amounts of preservatives and chemicals that can dry out your skin and contain lots of air. I do recommend using a good cream or soap that using water to activate and can be used with a shaving brush (although many you can bring to a lather with just your hand too).
It sounds as if you might be a visual learner and to learn more by watching I highly recommend my friend Mantic59′s Youtube Channel. He has wonderful tutorials and does a great job explaining and demonstrating technique. Also look for videos by geofatboy, Lynn S. Abrams, and many others. The more you can watch the better idea you will have how to do it yourself.
This is quite the lengthy answer, I hope it gives you good information! Please contact us with any other questions you may have, and Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Merkur 34C vs Muhle R89 – Which one is the best?
Aaron answers a question about which safety razor is the best, the Merkur 34c or the Muhle R89
Billy Stewart, from the UK, asks:
“I am ready to purchase my first de safety razor and have decided on a choice between Merkur 34c and the Muhle R89 which would be the best? Unless you can recommend something else?”
The Muhle R89 safety razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Stewart,
Congratulations on your first safety razor purchase! Honestly the Muhle 89 and the Merkur 34c are both great introduction razors and you would do well to purchase either one. I personally started with the Merkur 34c, but know many others who have started with the Muhle. The choice is yours, choose which one seems to appeal to you most and welcome to the safety razor club!
Smooth Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Are there any long-term negative effects of double edge shaving to the skin?
Aaron answers an excellent question about double edge shaving and the long term effects on the skin
Steve Donnellan, from the UK, asks:
“I recently undertook an experiment of using a multi-blade razor on one side of my face and a DE razor on the other half to compare results; 3 way shave on both sides. The results were obviously better using the DE Razor! However, I followed it up with the standard technique of using an Alum Block and noticed absolutely no sensation on the side I shaved with the multi-blade razor, but the usual stinging sensation on the side that I used the DE Razor. Therefore, is using a DE razor more harmful/aggressive and are there any longer term negative effects of DE shaving to the skin?”
Double edge shaving provides a much smoother shave
AARON SAYS
“Mr. Donnellan,
I’m glad you feel confident enough to do some experiments! What you have done is brilliant and has an excellent observation. Yes indeed, DE shaving will leave you with a closer shave than it’s modern counterpart.
The reason the alum block leaves a sting behind on the DE side of your face is the blade sits directly on your skin with DE razor while it is held off of the face with a modern cartridge razor. Therefore the tendency will be to lightly graze the surface of the skin with the blade and the alum block reveals these little injuries. Preventing this is a matter of technique. Watch the angle of the razor and blade, use as little pressure as possible and learn the feel of a good angle and what it feels like to have the blade at too acute an angle.
When you have followed these techniques the blade will skim over the surface, leaving you skin undamaged and incredibly smooth. When this happens you have arrived.
Best wishes and Smooth Shaving!
Aaron”
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Double edge (DE) safety razor aggressiveness explained
We often get questions from customers about the aggressiveness of double edge safety razors and which ones are best suited for their particular hair/beard type.
With that in mind, I thought I would put together a brief guide about what makes a razor mild, medium or aggressive and what type and skill level of wet shaver it’s been designed for.
The shiny Bluebeards Revenge ‘Scimitar’ provides medium aggression
According to the popular Badger and Blade shaving forum, the aggressiveness of a razor is based on 5 key factors. These are:
• Blade gap
• Blade angle in the razor
• Razor weight
• Distribution of the weight. (Heavy head/light handle vs. all heavy.)
• Blade angle applied by the user (this can influence the shave drastically if not done properly).
Blade gap and angle:
The larger the blade gap, the more of the blade is exposed to the skin, hence the greater risk of nicks and cuts for an inexperienced DE shaver. On the flip side, experienced DE shavers generally prefer a larger blade gap because it allows for greater control over the angle of the blade as it makes contact to the skin.
Razor weight and distribution of weight:
The heavier the razor, the more aggressive it is generally perceived to be. Weight balance (such as whether a razor is more head-heavy or handle-heavy) also plays a role, with razors balanced more toward the head often considered milder shavers than their handle-heavy counterparts.
According to many wet shaving experts like the guys on Badger and Blade or top shaving blogs such as Shaving101 and Sharpologist, the user shouldn’t just follow a quest to find the mildest or most aggressive razor, but instead they should find the right level of aggressiveness for their particular type of skin.
Mild Safety Razors
A mild safety razor has a cutting head that is designed to limit the amount of force that is transferred to the blade’s edge. Because these types of razors are less likely to cause irritation or nicks during a shave, they are perfect for men with very sensitive skin or men with lighter/weaker beard growth.
Good examples of mild safety razors include the Feather All Stainless and Goodfella. You could also try an adjustable safety razor, such as the Merkur Futur 761 or Merkur 570 Progress, on the lowest blade exposure settings.
The lightweight Edwin Jagger DE87 offers a mild shave
Medium Safety Razors
Medium aggressive safety razors, as the name suggests, have an average blade gap and expose a reasonable amount of blade edge. Providing a good balance between mild and aggressive, these types of razors allow the blade to cut efficiently without causing excessive irritation or increased probability of cuts and nicks.
Good examples of medium safety razors include the legendary Merkur 34C, Edwin Jagger DE89L and the shiny Bluebeards Revenge ‘Scimitar’. But in truth, most of the safety razors manufactured today would be considered medium as they provide the best of both worlds and can be targeted at both the experienced and inexperienced DE shaver.
Aggressive Safety Razors
Aggressive safety razors have a larger gap and greater blade exposure, allowing more hair to enter between the razor’s edge and the safety bar. This means it will cut through the beard much quicker and with fewer strokes. Aggressive safety razors are harsher on the skin and are usually favoured by men with very thick beard growth who struggle to get a close shave without having to do multiple passes.
The Merkur 37C Slant Bar is a serious bit of kit designed for the more experienced DE shaver for an extremely close shave. Another aggressive razor is the Merkur 39C Slant Bar, which is the long handled version of the 37C. The slanted head exposes more of the blade at one end and is very similar to the cutting angle of a straight (cut-throat) razor. It is also highly regarded as one of the best DE razors for sensitive skin sufferers because of the way it shaves.
Open comb razors like the Merkur 25C and Muhle R41 tend to be more aggressive and can give an easier shave for those who suffer from tough beards. The teeth help to guide and position the beard hair so that the blade can cut them more effectively without clogging like razor.
You could also try an adjustable safety razor, such as the Merkur Futur or Merkur Progress, on the highest blade exposure settings.
For more detailed information on safety razor aggressiveness please visit the following websites:
Shaving101
Badger and Blade
Ask Aaron Q/A: Would you recommend the Muhle R89 Grande?
Aaron answers a question about the Muhle R89 Grande Long Handled safety razor
Andrew Horwell, from the UK, asks:
“I have a Edwin Jagger DE89L razor and have recently aquired a Merkur Future razor cheap from a well know auction web site. I like the head of the EJ but I like the weight of the Merkur (the merkur head seems a little too bulky when shaving under the nose). For someone with sensitive skin, what razor could I look at that would be the best of both?. I have been looking at the Muhle R89 Grande, what do you think?”
Muhle R89 Grande Long Handled Double Edged Chrome Safety Razor
AARON SAYS
“Mr Horwell,
Your comment of the head profile being hard to shave under the nose with is a common complaint with the Merkur Futur and Vision razors.
The Muhle R89 Grande is a good alternative and I would also suggest you look at the Merkur 38c and the Merkur Progress long handle razors.
The Progress is honestly my favorite and my daily go-to razor. It’s head has a slimmer profile than the Vision or Futur and I think you’ll find you have no problem shaving under your nose with it. Thanks for your question!!
Happy Shaving,
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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Ask Aaron Q/A: Do double-edged safety razors provide a superior shaving experience?
Aaron answers a question about whether a DE safety razor offers a better shave than a cartridge razor
Benny Saelens, from Belgium, asks:
“Dear Aaron, I have been shaving for many years using a Gillette Mach 3 and for the last year on a regular basis with the Fusion. I would like to have a better shave but also a safe one. Would you advise me to swap a cartridge type razor to a DE safety razor, and if yes, which one? I have rather sensitive skin. Many thanks in advance for your appreciated advise, Benny.”
Parker Model 94R
AARON SAYS
“Benny,
With a little attention and technique the DE razor is just as safe as the modern cartridge razor such as the Mach 3 and Fusion you mention. I recommend the Merkur 34c, the Edwin Jagger DE86 or DE89, Parker 94R, or the Bluebeard’s Revenge Scimitar. These all are recommended for beginning shavers due to their mild blade exposure, which would be ideal for your sensitive skin. I think you will find the shave with a DE very rewarding and enjoyable.
Happy Shaving!
Aaron”
Do you have any burning questions you would like ask our wet shaving expert Aaron Wolfenbarger?
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